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I have never found a solid cab that was made for craftsman. You must take into consideration the carbon monoxide and ways to remove it. On the expensive John Deer and others, the engine compartment is sealed with exhaust blowing up or out of direction of cab.

@@LGHNurse0911 I paid $3,000 for it you would expect to be able to buy a solid cabin..guess I'll have to build one

@@LGHNurse0911 thanks for replying👍🏻

I would not be able to do that. Sorry.

As my motor got older, the CO2 increased. I have a portable CO2 detector inside. Make sure you do enough air circulation. I started with small boat gas tank fans that didn’t do much. I made my door to come off by lifting hinge bolt and placed a window in it. That does t help much. Unsure of my next moves. Needed to rebuild mower gear box and shaft.

In the final stages of my cab built, now adding windows and electrical accessories. Will be completed before winter.

I have the same set up (sans cab and actuator).... and yes i do have 150pd weights on the rear

I used 3/4 in square iron bar and flat iron. Over this summer I have grind down and retreated the cab with undercoating and rubber spray. I did not treat metal right initially and rust was taking over.

Joe Wigman sorry sold that

Sorry for delay. The frame is 43 3/4 high and 33 inches wide. The total is 66 1/2 inches from ground in back. This allows me to go in and out of shed. I do not have a flashing light on top.

Pete kovacevic thank you. I made patterns of each opening with cardboard. I took them to local glass shop, between their scraps fitting odd shapes and full sheets cost about 200.00. Back window is glass.

Sure is

Dave Kimbler , thanks. I did upgrade that actuator this year. Kieth Zoller posted a video with a super fast and strong actuator. I had to sell a kidney to get it, but fast and powerful. I do have a Harbor Freight winch, but would need to figure how to set it up. If the actuator fails, I will figure out the winch. Thanks for watching and your input.

I like your thinking and you have been a lot of help for my making of a cab ! Thank you !

By the way I went on amazon and ordered 4 of those joy stick controls ( I only need 1 but nice to have extra ) can’t wait till they arrive!

521farmer , on the front of the cab, I have a piece of old boat window plastic. I used snaps, allowing an easy on/off to access under the hood. The entire cab is held on with 4 bolts. I removed it on 3 occasions. In my design, i roll it forward and off tractor. Two people are needed. Now I have a winch in my garage and can lift it off if needed. As far as cost, it would of been a great down payment on a real tractor.

521farmer, Sorry, my gas tank is underneath the back, it’s a 5 gallon tank. Added weight. The access is inside cab on door side.

@@LGHNurse0911 Keep ya Posted thank,s again Awesome Job Ya Did

@@LGHNurse0911 wood ya hav the plans or pictures for the hook up to tractor mine does not hav any way sorry to bother you but if it wood help me alot How ya Hooked it Up thks again ya did good work

@@LGHNurse0911 well ya did it so I will make it close to yours if thats ok just lookin to find from ya how to hook it up to tractor thks so much goin to sign up if that,s ok with you does that help keep me posted on New Works Later Mius 44 here so workin in shop

Dave Kimbler , thanks Dave. I have enclosed front and inner cab from engine area to keep out exhaust. Despite doing that, the carbon monoxide levels are more then I would like, and purchased a small fan used in boats for fuel exhaust. This brings in fresh air to balance off exhaust.

LGHNurse0911 nice touch , a fan would work ! Auto zone has a 12 volt defroster that might have a fan on it , I’m going to check it out for mine ! Thanks for the heads up .

Raymond J Thanks

Streetglide40S&W, I do have the same gas tank on my lawn tractor. It is a 5 gallon tank. I try to keep if full in winter for weight. As for securing the frame, I simply drilled through the body, and used a 3 inch bolt. You are able to fit hands behind the body to secure the bolts. At no time was there a concern of hitting the tank. My reference to HF’s flux wire is that it spatters and makes a mess. You spend more time grinding to clean up that mess. I purchased Lincoln wire at Home Depot. It is a much cleaner weld with less fumes. An investment for any flux weld with HF product. Thanks for watching.

LGH thank you for reply back

Gerald Wilcox I got my spring back joysticks from EBay. The seller is tree_kicker He is out of Boston and product arrives quickly. Most are out of China, cheaper, but takes forever to be delivered. You can get the orange box I have from this seller. If I needed to buy again, I would of purchased the 3 whole. I needed to cut and re-modify. The switches were too close and hit each other when in use. Thanks for watching.

Larry E The front and rear window is 1/4 that I paid for, everything else was at the cost of 1/8 inch. The business had scraps of 1/4 inch. Thanks for watching.

And other then left corner of cab, all areas are vision spots.

Tony, I used this last season. The actuators are slow, but do the job. The location for the actuator that lifts the unit, stays warm from engine heat. The one on the chute froze up once on me. I coated it with rubber sealant and have had no problem. The power window motor works well, quick , and no issues yet. I have rewired all devices and lights to a power panel with relays. I’ll post that soon. Thanks for watching.

Mr Frog , your cheapest and most direct route would be the HF wench. An actuator is stronger then thought, but slow. You will need to pay dearly for a faster one. I actually purchased a HF winch for 39.00, with intentions to use for up and down of thrower. The fitting it into the area was tough. The actuator was a simple and direct option. I have read blogs of people who have tried to automate all actions of their plows with actuators. The consensus was the actuators snap from the pushing pressures. There are many good videos on you tube for tractors with plows. Most are John Deer. One from a guy in Canada, and one who shows his winch set up he made. A great start for ideas. Good Luck

After looking at your cab, and blower setup, I have just one comment.... Tractor Supply has 4" rubberized metal wheels with bearing hubs.... If you take the bolt from the caster out you can get a cat 5 bolt, then pickup a cat 5 nut... you can then take the skids off, turn them over, weld the nut on this will give you wheels on the bottom... If the wheel comes off you can then just turn the skid off, turn it over till you can get another nut welded on......

Dave Farrell , I’ve thought of this and have also tried riveting pvc to bottom of skid pads. They eventually fell off. About to post my final automation of unit. Thanks for suggestions and watching.

Thanks. Part 2 is also on TH-cam as well. The only 1/4 inch is the front window. I do not wipe or scrape, so no scratches. The rear is glass and remaining is 1/8 inch. Some minor scratches in sides, but view is large enough, no issues. The cab did great over winter. Used Harbor Freights Hester in front window as well. Will be wiring joysticks for all automation for the winter.