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I’m not sure what you’re asking but I used the felt from a fabric flowerpot to cover the controller. The wicker basket provided enough airflow for cooling.

You need to do the self-learning process again.

15a controller, 48v battery. Might be able to get away with a 20a controller.

No problems

@@thatguychris. me servirá para 60A de descarga?

Yeah, I would not go higher than 50a-60a

@@thatguychris. cuantas millas te dio?

Send me your address and I’ll get your award in the mail on Monday.

@@thatguychris.his stock can definitely not do that…. My stock jetson goes 15.5 mph and I’m lighter than a sack of potatoes… Definitely need to upgrade it

Hey Jason, I’m still using these brakes on the bike. I’ve only had one issue when the rear caliper locked up after winter storage. I would def recommend them though, they work very well and not having to bleed them is amazing.

That was the stock motor that got cooked like it said in the title of the video you watched

I’m still riding this bike, the only thing I have changed is the rear tire it’s a Kenda tire made for a Vespa and it greatly decreased the range but made the ride much more enjoyable

Citristrip

Yes you can, use a scale and weight out the bridge and solder your will be using and use identical amounts for each controller

Rider/cargo weight and terrain have a huge impact on speed, that being said with your setup the battery seems like the weakest link. A battery with a higher max Amp output and a supporting controller will most likely solve your issues.

Hi I hope you’re well Will you tell me please how many amp battery I need for 48v 2000w motor and 50amp controller

50a (continuous) with a 100a peak. Anything with higher specs will work too

It does about 50mph now, and I ride it almost daily in the warmer months. It has over 1000 miles so far.

@@thatguychris.how did you do it

Check out my other videos. :)

@thatguychris. OK then you check out mine lol

Maybe one week. Didn’t last through the testing period.

Yeah still works, it’s put away for the winter right now.

Yes, gold controller in my other videos. I was climbing a large hill when the motor died

@@thatguychris. I was thinking of connecting 2 36v batteries together by soldering the positive and negative wires together + with + and - with -. (I seen some guy do that). But, then there are the 2 charger ports ? Would you know what to do about that ? In a video ?

You will need to use a series connector plug and disconnect the batteries to charge them with a 36v charger. Or charge the batteries through the discharge port with a 72v intelligent charger.

No. If you try it let me know how it goes.

you definitely can't use transmission fluid. ferrofluid is magnetic and will only stick to the magnets . because thats where it should be. (and nowhere else) in the airgap between the magnets and stator. any other fluid will not stay there, will be all over the place and be useless. you shouldn't trust your gut-feeling and understand magnetism.

Type “ line pulling hydraulic brakes” on Amazon search

@@thatguychris. thx!

You’ll be ok, test it out with the stock controller and if you want to increase the performance upgrade the controller

@@thatguychris. thank you!

Tbh I don’t remember, it does 45+mph now with the upgraded motor

Didn’t last long. 🤣

atleast you got a few miles out of it mine just crapped its pants as soon as i gave it throttle.@@thatguychris.

Throttle control

Upgraded controller and battery, no brake cutoff.

Stock cables

No fires yet lol. Not sure if it’s actually 40ah I think it’s less, and it def isn’t good for 100 amps, it gets a lot of sag when the controller is turned up, I keep it tuned down and it works well. Would I buy another one or recommend it? No, I would suggest building your own or having a reputable builder make one.

@@thatguychris. for that price if it dont explode is a win XD .....¿is not puffed? I readed a lot of bad comments of this company batterys, for small discharges is possible a good option, but for high amperage +100 is a suicide because the cells are screwed with bolts ........ anyway for that price is normal if is not perfect .... thanks for respond

There’s many videos on TH-cam about connecting a display without preexisting wires. The setup is different for each display, you just have to buy one and go fro there. Imo the only thing you need is a voltmeter, everything else can be done with your phone/gps.

Not sure exactly. If you just glaze one of the shunts with solder you should get what you’re after, the smallest amount can change the resistance being measured by the controller.

@@thatguychris. change the resistance of being measured by the controller ? Is that good or bad ?

Gives more torque.

@@thatguychris. does it tell anywhere on the controller board what the watts are ? I mean to say like a 350w ?

You can calculate an estimated wattage by multiplying your amps X voltage. For example If I have a 45a controller, with a fully charged battery at 84v I should be around 3780 watts 45aX84v=3780. Depending on the controller it can spike much higher or not even match the advertised power.

I believe it would come down to terrain and rider weight also. 80-100 is what I’m getting with a 72v 22ah battery, so I’d imagine it would be considerably less miles.

@@thatguychris. But,, the speed you go at is what ? Between 20 - 36 mph correct ? Or do you usually go less than 20mph ?

If you have flat terrain, are very light in weight and pedaling like a crazy person, maybe? I doubt it though. My guess is about half that, 40 miles

@@thatguychris. so it should be a 72v battery then ?

60v would be ok too. It is what’s recommended for this motor

They’re not puncture proof, the come off the same way as any other tire. Remove the valve core and start pulling it off.

@@thatguychris. No.. mine are puncture proof. I have ran over broken beer bottles. No problem.

Use metal tire spoons and soapy water