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Sorry it did not work for you. The button not working is most likely the spring behind that button is not sitting quite right - they are visible around 8:40 mark. Might want to move them around a bit.

Maybe you did not plug the card all the way in? Also make sure the lid and other parts are where they are supposed to be . Either the lid or the long black piece has a plastic prong/peg that is supposed to go in between the 'posts' of the black U-shaped optical sensor on the board. If the peg is not there or misaligned - you will get the error. You can also try to jam a piece of paper in between the posts of the sensor and see if that changes the error message in any way.

So you saying you have a hole in the plastic tubing? Does the steam escape through it when you run the machine? If so, you can probably shorten the tube by cutting just before the hole and inserting back into the chamber. Don't think there is much that you can do between cleaning the pressure chamber and cleaning the milk reservoir lid tubing though. If you did find a junk inside the chamber - it is possible it has traveled down to the valve or the heating block. While you can probably clean all of that, it probably makes more sense to get a new machine.

Thanks! In my case it was still making perfectly fine espresso, but the frother would get increasingly weaker and weaker. At some point it would just push out a bunch of steam but fail to pump any milk into the cup. After several years of cleaning, I went with Rancilio Silvia - a bit less electronics and, unlike Mr Coffee, most every part can be ordered online. Gaggia Classic Pro is another highly repairable machine.

Glad it worked out! :)

Sorry, don't really know this one. I suggest you check all the connections to make sure you have not forgotten to plug any of the connectors.

Did you clean both the milk cap piping and the boiler inside the machine? When I opened the boiler the first time, there was a visible chunk of sand-like substance plugging the steam outlet. I kept cleaning it every half a year or so to keep it going for about another 2 years. At this point though, it looks like that stuff went into the piping and valves, so I've upgraded to a better machine that is actually serviceable and easy to get parts for.

@@maksym3d I attempted to get into the back of the machine but did not have a driver to open the safety screws. Turns out I had purchased an extended warranty when I bought the machine, so it was covered. However, we decided to purchase a different machine. that I will just use a frother with instead of the internal. This is the part that seems to clog. I saw a video on You Tube about the gunk that collects in the boiler. Both my husband and I have been having some gastric issues and we realized and have connected it to the coffee maker, because after we would drink it, we both had issues. Have you seen the video? It's disgusting to think that we actually drink this. Thanks for your response.

@@patriot5548 Have not seen that video, but I did see the gunk in my boiler. It looks like the boiler basically corrodes on the inside and flakes of that corrosion accumulate in the boiler (maybe together with scale). I don't think it would make it to the milk / coffee because of the very small orifices the steam is pushed through, but who knows - ultimately, a new machine is a healthier choice. Have not had stomach issues with MrCofee, but coffee is generally a strong laxative / acidic drink, especially some of the roasts.

@@maksym3d Thanks. I know that bacteria is microscopic so yes, it can get in the froth. You really need to look at the other video, it appears like there is curdled milk in the boiler, it looks like cottage cheese, it's disgusting to think we are drinking anything that looks like that is possible. My Assurian warranty is in effect, but if this is the way these all look with such corrosion and curdled milk, it's not safe. I am filing a complaint with Mr. Coffee. They can fix it and I will throw it away, my health is worth more than that and we now realize that this has been going on since the frother stopped working. Here is the link for the other video, did you see this at all? mister coffee cafe barista no milk Idona Jones

@@patriot5548 Oh wow, yes, that is disgusting - would definitely throw away that thing. Mine was nothing like that, no milk residue.

Pao, my issue is that the pressure chamber gets corroded on the inside. That corrosion looks like tiny rocks or sand. Frother intake tube sits at the bottom of the chamber and gets obstructed by these "rocks", so you don't get enough steam pressure going into the frother. The solution is to clean it out once in a while.

@@maxpett2471 I saw in another video that they cleaned the part where the expresso comes from, that's the same part that you are referring to? I opened the lid and i dont see where the pressure to suck the milk comes from

@@Paoliholi Do you mean you opened the lid of the pressure chamber? The metal thingy I'm pointing my finger at 6:35? It has a number of white transparent tubes going from the chamber to the valves. Inside the chamber, each tube has an opening. It is these openings that get clogged. I don't remember which one is the frother -maybe the topmost. You can try trace it all the way to the frother, but the point is you need to make sure all of the openings inside the chamber have no obstructions. If they do - you can clean them with something like a paperclip in rinse out with water.

You can clean the piping inside the lid - sometimes milk bits get stuck in there. But if this does not help - yeah, most likely you have to clean the corrosion inside the pressure chamber. I seem to need to do it every year or so.

Honestly, I've though shorting out does not do much. Nice to know the watch actually needs it!

@@maksym3d: Thanks for the video! I just replaced the battery on my daughter's watch which had been dead for several days; prior to shorting it out, even with the new battery the display was blank. Thankfully, shorting it out reset the watch and it recognized the battery - now it's up and running!

Oh well. At least you saved the watch from becoming a landfill :)

Ha-ha. Yes. It is a bit fumbly, glad you got it working!

Mine were not all that tight. Close to the torque you would put on a car battery terminal, may be even less. The bolts are fairly meaty though - you can try an impact driver. I've actually had to clean mine twice, but it's been working fine ever since.

Hi can you share how the assembly should be , I have a small spring and an Black plastic arm like thingy….I have no idea where it goes

Are you trying to find a charger for Theragun G2PRO? If you can find G2PRO-specific charger - get that. Otherwise, you can get Craftsman DieHard 12V charger (item 320.10006 ) - they are about $35-$40 used on fleabay (like this one www.ebay.com/itm/374018233689). Now, I don't know why they brand batteries as NextTec and charger as DieHard, but it does not really matter. One thing to note G2PRO might be a bit loose in the Craftsman charger - I wedge a toothpick into one of the two vertical slots to make sure the battery makes a good contact.

It does. I use my Craftsman Nextec charger to charge the Theragun batteries - don't feel like keeping two chargers around. The only caveat is that the two fins that run from the top to the bottom of the battery on Theragun version are about 0.5mm less tall than the same fins on Craftsman. The result is that Theragun battery in Nextec charger is a bit loose - I usually wedge in a toothpick in the slot on the charger to keep the battery from wiggling and loosing the contact while charging.

The top cover message probably indicates a different fault than the fuser cover. I have a different model of the printer, but yours might be similar. On my printer, the edge of the top cover has a few 'pegs'. When you close the cover, these pegs go into the holes. One of these holes has a flip switch depressed by the peg. You can depress the switch with a pencil and see if the error message goes away. If it does not - the switch itself might be faulty, in which case you can probably just replace it with a piece of wire jumping the switch's contacts. If you messed inside the printer - it is also possible you forgot to plug the switch back into whatever board it was plugged into.

@@maksym3d same issue on my Epson R1800 tray open error, my door is faulty won’t stay shut the latch won’t stay when I push it in….any ideas?

@@MrBaggareds Hard to tell without seeing the printer. Would the back door physically not stay shut? Does it close at all or feels like something preventing it from closing completely? You can probably look along the edge of the back door and see if you can find a protrusion or a peg - it should go into a matching hole on the body of the printer. That peg might be broken off or you have bent something in that hole (in which case you might be able to do n-bend it).

@@maksym3d yea the clip from the tray is not holding when I try to close it either something broke or it’s so loose that it won’t hold..I here the clicking sound when I try to close it it just won’t hold I tried taping it but don’t work either lol..so I try a paper feed and that light comes on with out of paper error and only that one I try nozzle check I get 3 lights blinking

@@MrBaggareds well if you broke the sensor peg off - you can try to figure out where it used to go and jam a piece of paper in that hole to bypass the sensor. Or see if the peg is still in the hole.

Hi Ijaz, not sure what you mean. What do you need a help with?

Yeah, could be the sensor. If that does not work out - sensor boards are $10 on ebay / aliexpress.

@@maksym3d Thanks Maksym! 😁

@@maksym3d Might you know what interrupts the photo-transistor in order to get it to send a signal that the cover is closed? I’m guessing that a piece interrupts the beam by going through the middle of the U shaped component. I can’t tell from looking into the back of my printer what interrupts the beam. Any clues? Thanks!

@@focusedmessagemarketing958 On my printer, once you open the back door there is another door with rollers. That door has a black rod that runs the whole length of the door and it has a black flag-like spur on the end that normally interrupts the sensor. The flag comes out of the sensor when you open that second door, or when the paper goes up from the tray into the fuser and pushes on another spur on the same rod (thus you cant just bypass the sensor - it controls the movement of the paper).

Please read the description to the video. In my printer, this was caused by a faulty sensor. You can either get a new sensor, or a new sensor board - they are about $10 on ebay / aliexpress.

@@maksym3d After I fix the error: "Cover is open. Close the top cover". And replace the toner cartridge. Then the machine has this error: th-cam.com/video/21QJLNAHf9I/w-d-xo.html

@@miapalo4540 Make sure your power cord is plugged all the way in - it looks like it is shuts down because it does not have enough current or have an electrical short. If plugging the cord better does not help - unplug, let it sit for half an hour, then try again. How did you fix the cover issue and have you seen it shutting down like that before? It is also possible you damaged something while replacing the parts, particularly bent some wires to a point they are touching each other. In that case, you might want to disassemble and look for any obvious problems. Finally, electronics in the printer can be faulty. This is less likely, especially if you printer worked normally before the 'close cover' problem.

Did the legs of the connector broke or just the black casing came out leaving two separate 2-legged parts on the board? If it's just the casing - you can probably put it back on. If it is indeed is broken - check the numbers on top of the black case. It should say 579. If it is - it is the same sensor.