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Ideally, you would repair or replace your bent hinge. Then use the True Latch anti-sag brace to hold the correct position or raise it as needed. Always remember to PRE-LIFT the gate up the height you need first, or just a smidge more than needed, then shim or block it up, THEN attach the True Latch brace to hold the height. Then, make your final adjustments after you remove the temporary block(s) that were holding up the gate. If you didn't want to repair or replace the bent hinge... only if your gate has "play" or is "rackable" enough, the True Latch brace may be possible to compensate for the damaged hinge by the brace alone. But, replacing or repairing the bent hinge would be best. You could test the "rackability" by a shovel test. Place a shovel under the latch side of the gate, with it slightly open. Then try to raise the gate carefully to see if it will go back the correct height, and ideally much more than needed, as most aged wood gates will be slack at the hinges and hinge post.

Mizuki, Unfortunately, wood gates are VERY prone to sag. I've been in the business for 14+ years and helped build over 5,000 fence gates. Wood gates NEED help. The True Latch anti-sag gate brace will stiffen the gate and provide you with easy and fast future adjustability when your gate sags. And, that sag will come from many places, the fence gate itself settling, the hinges loosening, the hinge post leaning over, etc. So, you have lots of ways for gravity to work against your gate.

@@bradnovacek not if you install the gate brace the correct way. I hope you haven't been doing it wrong the entire 14 years

DMoney, the True Latch anti-sag gate brace works best on wood privacy fence gates!

uh ya, thats great if YOU HAVE THE MEANS to do that .. but OBVIOUSLY the ad for this product says NO TOOLS NECCASARRY SOOOOO..... THATS MOST LIKELY WHO ITS AIMED AT!

Sunshine, If it has a welded frame, then it is not intended for it. The gate needs to be able to "rack". A welded frame is too ridged most likely.

Thanks Vivian. You can visit Truelatch.com and contact us there.

Thanks, Bob. Actually, the brace allows you to not have to rebuild the gate. Many people don't realize that they don't need a new gate, they just need to overcome the sag that has been induced from 3 locations. First, the gate post could be leaning from the weight of the gate or the ground has possibly shifted or contracted from dryness. Second, the hinges usually become loose from use over time, and usually only have a set of 2 hinges, plus the screws on your normal strap hinges have to go thru a picket first before sinking into the 2x4 or 2x3. So, often there is a lot of shifting downward happening between the strap hinge and the 2x4. And third, the gate itself can loosen and sag if it is not built with a steel frame or braced with an anti-sag measure. Our patented, True Latch anti-sag gate brace, firstly braces the gate, to stiffen and solidify it, and then your able also to reverse the sag in a gate with a few turns of an adjustable wrench. It was my father-in-law's vision that homeowners could easily brace and lift their residential gates in a very strong and easy way any time they needed it. Brad

@@bradnovacek or you could have had the wood diagonal brace the other way, having the bottom of the brace on the hinge side. Simple gate physics.

Hi Mr. Curtis, actually we've not seen an issue it dragging the top 2x4 down.

@@bradnovacek thanks, good to know.

It will cuz your simply relying on the screws to hold it up from sagging. If you simply put the wood brace in correct the first time, this will never happen. When building the gate, you need to make sure the top of the brace is opposite the hinge side. If the brace points down opposite the hinge side, it will sag 100% of the time

Hi Mr. Young, 11' wide is pretty wide. I would use 2 braces on that large of a gate. Or if we have the 10' telescopic version, it would likely work best.

What would be the prices 0n them?

@@eugeneyoung3971 Visit Truelatch.com or Amazon.com are 2 good places to find them.

Did it work for your gate?

Neither work when it’s any wider than 6’ , it just torques the shit out of the gate until you break it

Hi Marty, Yes, definitely. We have different sizes. There is a 1 body 64" long version, telescopic 6', and telescopic 8'. The 6' or 8' would work well. Likely the 8' would be best as shed doors usually have the supporting 2x4 framework on the outer edges of the shed door.

Paige, we're working on getting it secured again!

@@NoViE75 The website is https secured now.

Sorry, not sure what exactly your talking about.

Jim, the common hinges used on 99 percent of all wooden fence gates are your 2 decorative strap hinges. Because the screws go thru the picket into the 2x3 or 2x4, there is usually loosing and shifting that occurs. You might get up to a 1" drop or sag at just the hinge side! So, it's not just the gate frame itself. Brad

Bill, if setup like you suggest, the opposite of what is desired would occur. The lower right edge would go down and not up. The video is correct.

Bill, it works just the same as the anti sag gate kits, the cable turnbuckle kits your describing. Instead of a cable kit, it's a solid steel brace that stiffens the whole gate. Where as the cable kit may warp the gate as it pulls up. We recommend installing the adjustable threaded portion at the top of the gate on the "hinge side". And, the bottom of the brace, on the bottom of the gate on the "latch side".

Damn Bill, You Ok?

Video is right. It’s a tension brace. And it looks to be a good one in my opinion

Bill Martin The brace is in tension not compression. You’re thinking of using a compression brace.