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Looks like they have used one of those rubber Chinese levels they use on new builds.lol

😂 quite a lot recently

More then you think

Hi Chris, I’m based in Wallsend but we cover most of the North East and yes we do remedial work. If you visit www.lambertconstruction.co.uk and go to Get a quote. Just fill your details in and I’ll get in touch and see if you would like us to pop out and see you.

@@ianlambert284 Done! Thank you!

I was thinking the same. The cavity wall insulation is bridging over the internal dpm

Hello Fraser, thank you for your comment. They’re only touching each other below the layer of 80mm PIR insulation and there’s an insulated up stand. It’s done exactly to specification by someone who actually knows what they’re talking about. The cavity insulation is Knauf dry therm cavity insulation if you must know. Suitable for insulating a cavity

@@ianlambert284 Hi Ian, thanks for taking the time to reply. First of all, I appreciate the time and effort you've taken to make and upload the video, so fair play to you for doing so. We all know as soon as you do that, you're exposing yourself to comments and criticism from armchair experts who often tell you "....you should have done this, you shouldn't have done that". You've just done what you were contracted to do which is build what's on the drawings. Thanks too for advising about the DriTherm spec, that makes as difference to knowing it is indeed suitable for full fill cavity insulation. It just looked in the video to be a more open type of mineral wool - just goes to show, you shouldn't go by appearances! I have to say though that my assertion there's a continuous cold bridge between the slab and inner leaf still stands. The slab is clearly 'cold' (the insulation is above it) and it's continuously touching the inner block leaf. The only thing the "insulated upstand" you refer to is doing is separating the warm screed from the inner leaf. I accept the cavity insulation is helping the inner leaf remain warm, but I'm really surprised the BCO signed off that base detail. I'm more surprised that the architect designed it with such a detail! I say that as a fully qualified architect with more than 35 years experience, so I do - hopefully - know a bit of what I'm talking about. I know this'll maybe sound really arrogant and elitist but is the person who prepared the design drawings definitely an 'architect' (legally you can only use that term if you've done all the years of training and sat the necessary exams to get ARB accreditation) or were you just using the term in a sort of generic way and meant 'the person who did the drawings'? Apologies if you were referring to a different insulated upstand that's not visible in the footage and that's somehow breaking the direct connection between cold slab and inner leaf but based on what I could see in the video, the slab and inner leaf would appear to be touching so there's definitely a cold bridge. Once again, cheers to you for doing the video and responding to the comments, it's appreciated.

@@giotto4321 correct,he did say he wanted to use a thermal block but was told not to.i would also put at least a 80 mil plasterboard on walls as well never enough installation.

Everything has gone a bit mental! Timber especially, hopefully it settles down next year

Sorry I don’t understand a word of that 😂.

@@ianlambert284 is that better lol

Yep we have removed it from a few house cavity’s due to damp

Hi Phil, thanks for your comment. 80mm PIR insulation beneath screed gives floor a U value of 0.22 w/M 2k. 👍 unless it’s now changed. This was nearly 2 years ago and yes BC signed it off. We are still working to building control drawings that state 80mm PIR insulation

@@ianlambert284 Hi Ian. Apologies, I was working on 0.11 u value for new build rather than 0.22 for extensions, as you say.

I have them everywhere in my house and I hate them with every shred of my being.

It’s not mineral wool it’s cavity insulation, specified by the architect for external cavity walls. It’s a lot more expensive to insulate externally

@@ianlambert284 I know its more money but still.. I would not put that yellow wool in the cavity. That extratherm insulation would have been better choice as well in the cavity. Probably more money again, but.... What is the brand of this cavity insulation that the architect recommended?

Tbh Im only a first year carpentry apprentice and when I seen the yellow insulation in the video I raced to comments to have my suspicions confirmed. So im also very interested to know what brand of cavity insulation was used. Thanks. 👍

Hope it all goes well mate! They never bother to me much with insulation back int he 1800’s 🤣

It is because it is a cold spot ie the wall is cold and would attract condensation.

@@dannymurphy1779 that's my point it isn't a cold wall because it is insulated cavity, so that should keep it warm? Or have I missed something?

@@sten40too1 The internal wall is sat on the ground. The only other option as someone else has already commented on here would be to use something like foamglass at the bottom of the wall to isolate it from the ground but it's not a common practice in the UK yet as far as I know anyway.

The vapour barrier goes on top of the roof deck on a warm roof.

It’s a warm deck roof

@@ianlambert284 are you not going to put insulation between the rafters seen in the roof then? - vapour berrier should be on the warm side and not om the cold

EWI has bridging issues that need to be solved with detailing as well. Its not a perfect solution.

scott: please elaborate a little - thanks, Chris

I will mate .Full fill cavity insulation the cavity tray should go behind the insulation the damp can track across .with partial fill cavity the insulation goes up the the back of the insulation

@@matthewingham8579 I was scratching my head about that when I watched the vid, it's not something I do so I'm no expert but thought it looked odd.

a screw will out live you

@@Daemiex Good to know and NOT at the same time!!! Since I posted the question I've had the roof done, they took me up there so I had a good look at how it all goes together :)

Screws are marine grade stainless steel

Use good quality stainless if you can find them.

Hi Neil, I haven't much experience with the older versions of the dry ridge system. My recommendation would be to have it replaced by a decent local roofer with a modern system like the one on the video. Its quick, easy, relatively cheap and if the ridge tiles themselves are in good condition they can be re-used. Hope that helps

@@ianlambert284 you have been a great help with your advise buddy I was thinking I would have to do this and get a company in. your not local are you TS12 area. Just need the right people with your experience

Hi Dan, it depends on what you’re using to cover the roof, obviously slate is a lot thinner than the concrete tiles so the Batton doesn’t need to be as thick. You’re best off starting with a single or doubled up slaters lath and you can always add on to it if the screws are still not catching