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Learn something new everyday, and it's quite accurate as we have compared the results with our laser speed testing machine in the factory. This is much easier to test with, and portable as we bring it to the track as well.

Normally 500/450 is my starting point however since our track has been oil treated and is very high grip I am running 750/700 now. It's also quite smooth. 500/450 or 550/500 is a good start in most cases.

Hmm how can I explain it. Offset is the distance from the center of the contact patch aka center of the wheel from the hinge pin. It can either be positive or negative.

@@amrservos ok thank you but i have a question: if the CVDs and rear arms lenght still the same with or without the mod, how can the distance front center of the wheel to the hinge pin can influence de handling of the car? Maybe Is a suspension geometry factor that improve the traction during a turn? I mean the wheel still in the same position and we have same distance wheel to wheel

@@stefanoparoli leverage on the contact patch basically. With Kyosho hub mod only universals are compatible.

@@amrservos thank you!

On the 1.0 or 2.0?

@@amrservos 1.0.

No, the offset is to far off that the Kyosho hubs is really the only way to go. You do the Kyosho hub mod, with the LIT blocks it is night and day difference.

@@amrservos Thank you.

I own the TLR Elite 1.0 and have the 2.0 as well. The Sparko is easier to work on, and is just a better car out of the box. It's easier to drive, and with our 4 degree incline spindles, and bump steer correction kit it is pretty dialed. The radio box, and the large center diff is also a plus, and worlds better than the TLR. It still hurts as i have a ton of spares, and investment in the TLR platform, but it's hard to go back when I am simply faster with the Sparko, and again it's easier to work on. As you probably know the diff access alone on both the 1.0 and 2.0 is downright terrible.

@@amrservos What I was surprised by was only one person was running that sparko car and that was cavalleri! I thought for being such a great car I would’ve expected more presents but still baffled. As far as the TL are getting to the dips is literally five screws so not sure what you’re talking about on the front and the rear. And I’m talking about the elite

@@jdportwerks6795 It's not the amount of screws. To remove the rear diff means removing the wing, and also that whole assembly is tied to the rear brace. And it is a split case horizontally. Access between the 2, especially the rear is night and day. As for the amount of people, the car is a year old. They don't have the budget to hire big guns like a company like TLR who have been in the game for over 35 years.

@@jdportwerks6795 th-cam.com/video/7UlFm1l2DE0/w-d-xo.htmlsi=PtMLMamqdZeJCJsS

I don't run the 2.0 anymore, but I ran the APEXX engineering 1.0 rear hubs on it, without having to drill the arms since the pivot is narrower than the 1.0.

It's not perfect, but TLR nut huggers won't admit it lol. I have been running TLR since I was teen, I love the brand, but not enough to turn a blinds eye. I am realist.

Forgive me, but what is the meaning of UJ?

Taiwan made

Sorry I missed this, the A and B block normally center on both, but when running our incline spindles I run center on both, but outside center. The C and D block I run with the most narrowest pivot which requires some grinding of the arms and gearbox which is center on the D block ,and inside center on the C.

Yeah, that shit threw me for a loop. No one says the abbreviations for length units.

The rating is about torque, twisting force. In the case of servos it's usually measured in kg (force) per cm or ounces per inch. So a 1 cm long servo arm should be able to lift up to 35 kg in this case. The longer the arm (the lever) the less it can overcome. Torque = force x distance, so a 2 cm arm would half the torque of the servo down to 17.5kg etc etc.

I used a fully charged 7.4V receiver pack that is used primarily for video testing to replicate the power source that is used when these are used in a nitro application. I have a fixed direct power source, and a receiver pack for testing. I have tested these on both power sources, and the torque relatively drops quite fast, and these can not handle the heat in Nitro and quickly fail. I have tested these myself more than once in my own 1/8th buggy, and every single one has failed in a short period of time. Regardless if you feel it is odd they are not very good when used in a racing application, especially in 1/8. These are best for recreational use or some 1/10 club racing.

No, spend a little bit more money on a better servo for robotics use. Thank me later.

How can you watch this video and STILL ask this question??

Vision Racing Products is a dealer of ours visionracingproducts.com/product-category/amr-servos/

Car is amazing in stock form, right out of the box.

Where have you get the hub and all the other Stuff 🤗

@@kondrup93 amain hobbies

I know it's been awhile since you posted, but just wanted to reply with a Thank you for the feedback. It's night and day, offset is soo important especially in the rear. It dictates soo much on how the car will handle.

IF465H IF463H IF617 IF613H asc89269 Link to the jig you can have 3d printed. www.dropbox.com/s/y9zgsg1pqee61sf/Drill-Jig-v3.stl?dl=0

Is the jig for drilling the a-arm? I have 8xe elite and don't have the second inside hole on the a arm.

big big thanks ;-) @@amrservos

i have the Kyosho steel turnbuckle set not from asso is this also good ?@@amrservos

@@bashmyracer784 As long as it is long enough, and works with the rod ends. Your good to go.

Yea, I noticed them too, lots of adjustability in them I see

Interesting perspective as the Tekno owners I have spoken to who purchased the car haven't said a word. Funny how removing 2 more extra screws to get a diff out is such a hassle for some. Thanks for your feedback.

@@amrservos we had a mugen before, was the same. Four screws, unhook swaybar, and you're done. Blocks all stay in place. But, the real part of the video that makes me appreciate tekno is the TLR! That would drive me crazy having to undo so much of the car just to change some fluids.

@@malATX The TLR is ancient compared to all, and you won't see a revision for years since the 2.0 wasn't updated in that regard. The Tekno, and Mayako, X-ray XB8 2023 would be regarded as quick release 2.0, while the Sparko is version 1.0. Still easy access, but not quite as quick as the latest design. Regardless V1 or V2 is better than TLR, it's a disappointment in that regard. They had an opportunity to change it, yet they didn't. Sad for TLR owners.

@@amrservos yeah, I've only had Mugen and tekno. Didn't know the TLR was like that. The Mugen way seems like a pretty obvious design once you see it. 😀

Negative. Your not adjusting ackerman here. Especially with the combination of our incline spindles what your thinking is far from what is actually happening on the track. Simply put, the car is even easier to drive, more predictable, and steering is better throughout the range both on and off power.

Our servos are programmable. I can adjust parameters to make it less prone to jitters when no load is present. However many digital servos that have the jitters is like that by default from the manufacturer, and will work fine once the servo has load.

@@amrservos How do I carry the machine?

​@@amrservosthat's mean, if the servo has jitter, it is normal. I have RGT 86100 and sometimes the servo become jitter. I thought it's because not enough current because I use 2s battery.

Check your receiver by changing each channel with diff. Servo.

The car quality is as high as it can get. The fit, machine work, and the quality of the plastics is excellent. The diffs are still considered quick access diffs, but not the same design as you see in the Mugen or new X-ray. Maybe the next generation will incorporate the same design, but the current design is still easy to work on, and only has about 2 more bolts that need to be removed compared to the Mugen. A few more seconds isn't going to hurt anyone. The new TLR is a dinosaur, and the current 2.0 is well well behind even the Sparko when it comes to diff access especially.

Same factory, however 2 different designers. They do share some parts which have been a convenience for me since our local shop is fully stocked on Sworkz, as Sparko spares have not arrived yet. The shocks are the same however they improved them by using a different lower shock cup, and shock end which have a screw to keep them in place. The threads on the shafts are also slightly larger in diameter for more bite. Too many more improvements/changes to list.