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I found them on AliExpress but they are now unavailable. Yes, they are still okay.

@@stijnsprojects are they 10mm I'd for threaded part? Did you cut threads into these joints?

The outside diameter is 28 mm, I tapped an M16 thread on the inside

@@stijnsprojects thank you. That's a bigger joint than I've seen. Did you add an axial bearing above the joint? How did you solve the need to have one side rotate freely?

There is no bearing in the top or bottom. The ball screw inside the actuator allows the rotation of the top compared to the bottom.

I used a silicone tube, not all types of tube expand like that. The pressure was about 7 bars.

You can control the force by regulating the air pressure. To regulate the pressure, you can use a microcontroller to control an electro controlled air (pressure) regulator. Good luck with your project.

You probably didn't install the required packages.

I did that because when I made mine, the units were different so I wanted to keep it the same. There are multiple ways to achieve the same functionality such as multiplication or division by a factor in firmware, using a microcontroller to change the value, maybe even multiplying or dividing by a factor in flypt. There have been many updates to the firmware and flypt since I made my sim.

Do you mean by setting the microstepping to a different setting?

It's possible to update a clone board, you can find the information on the ODrive website (docs.odriverobotics.com/v/0.5.4/developer-guide.html). I also have a video on how to upload firmware to the board that can help but the process had changed a bit since then (th-cam.com/video/Vo40CslNyxg/w-d-xo.html). If I have the time, I will make an up to date video on how to flash the firmware.

@@stijnsprojects I did get the motors calibrated. Thanks for the confirmation on the firmware update

Are you using my Arduino program? I don't think it includes standstill, you need to set the enable-pin high to disable the drive or just don't send pulses on the step-pin.

They probably will, I was not able to test it with this version because I couldn't attach a large enough load to heat up the windings.

KEDA 6364 190KV, these used to be sold by hobbyking.

There is a link in the description to the spreadsheet, the ambient temperature was 24°C. There is also some extra information about the cooling power, fan size, ... .

The force and stroke of the actuator depend on the dimensions of everything. As seen in the video, the stretching of the sleeve is not so regular when it's to large. Because the parts are cheap, I recommend buying a few sizes and trying some things out. As a reference, I used the same diameter of silicone tube as the coupler was made for (OD 8 mm, ID 5mm) and the sleeve that worked best is a bit smaller, 6 mm.

I also used a plastic sleeve, the camera makes it look a bit different.

@@stijnsprojects but brother nylon has more strength than plastic and also nylon is not that much expensive as compared to carbon sleeve so i will use nylon sleeve

Yes, you can constrain one side of the muscle with a fibre so the length is fixed on that side causing the muscle to bend.

It's definitely possible but a micro geared motor and a 9g servo cost about the same.

True, it was just an example to compare. Thanks

Take a look on the FlyPT website, you will find flight sim games that are compatible. You just need a different user input device.

I used the same adhesive for all heatsinks.

If you make a smaller motor perform better you can achieve the same as a larger motor that performs worse, this principle is called downsizing.

@@stijnsprojects just use at longer nema motor, and if you really care about performance close the loop, that that way you can reduce energy send to the motor to what is needed.

I'm not saying that people should use smaller motors. I just did some testing and put the results in a video, everyone is free to do what they want with the results. I've seen many projects on TH-cam where the motor is cooled from the back so for those people for example my video might be useful.

@@stijnsprojects sorry didn't mean to sound hostile. I like stepper motors because one can run them open loop, but closing the loop makes things run so much more stable. although one still has to remember to set the maksimums, if you don't want to make the motor smoke, was fiksing a 60amp 600v motor drive, and using a 1kw motor which is not a problem as long as the feedback is working, well between test it had reset the current limet, so when it didn't see the motor move it it just just starte turning up the current until the motor moved or something broke, in this case it was a breaker that saved my test motor but a bit of smoke did some from it.

It's always better to use the right motor for the job but many people try to use standard motors for everything. Closed loop steppers have come down in price but the adoption process is slow.

The iron core definitely has a positive effect on the working, it keeps the leakage flux to a minimum and it has a high permeability.

@@stijnsprojects Thanks for the reply, it's appreciated.

Normaal moet je programma niet worden aangepast. De sturing controleert zelf of de positie klopt. De enige mogelijke aanpassing is het inlezen van het alarmsignaal dat de sturing uitstuurt wanneer de positie niet meer klopt. Op mijn kanaal vind je ook een video terug over het gebruik van closed loop stappenmotoren.

De 4 signalen moet je op de drivers aansluiten en waar moet je de encoders op aansluiten

De encoder moet je ook op de driver aansluiten.

You can find the schematic on the website (stijnsprojects.github.io/Balancing-robot), I'm using a star ground setup so there are no ground loops.

The GUI will only display if you have a board connected, if the terminal shows that the board doesn't want to connect you can use the Zadig tool to change the driver to linusb and try again.

@@stijnsprojects It's working fine now. Thank you for your help！😃

I've checked and the folder is not empty. You need to run the calibration file on the nano and copy the offsets to the IMU file in the imu-nano folder and upload that file to the nano. For the mega you just need to upload the rotaped file and for the remote the remote file.

I know, there is a problem with the buffer but I didn't have the time to figure out how to fix it.

I recommend SimpleFOC if you are a beginner and want to learn or for low power applications and ODrive if you need high power and you are not a beginner.

Yo compre una placa de SimpleFOC y la queme a los 10 minutos JAJA, recomiendo ODrive es más seguro

@@manuelj8246 gracias por el consejo bro, encima quiero meterle 36v, seguro q iba a quemar la otra placa