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Mr. Pigments
United States
เข้าร่วมเมื่อ 10 พ.ค. 2024
Slightly unhinged former Material and applications specialist in the coatings industry who mostly did regulatory testing.
Formerly @drezrale
cute possum drawn by @linkiepup
Alchemist guy drawn by @voidbrush
Formerly @drezrale
cute possum drawn by @linkiepup
Alchemist guy drawn by @voidbrush
วีดีโอ
How to read paint tubes and what does series actually mean
มุมมอง 31119 ชั่วโมงที่ผ่านมา
discord: dsc.gg/paintnerd Support: ko-fi.com/mrpigments
Acrylic additives and what they are used for
มุมมอง 24814 วันที่ผ่านมา
discord: dsc.gg/paintnerd Support: ko-fi.com/mrpigments
Reviving the OG Goblin Green
มุมมอง 30221 วันที่ผ่านมา
discord: dsc.gg/paintnerd Support: ko-fi.com/mrpigments Special thanks to www.twitch.tv/cerantis for helping with photos and other things
Cloning Agrax Earthshade, Now GW has to fear me.
มุมมอง 32428 วันที่ผ่านมา
discord: dsc.gg/paintnerd Support: ko-fi.com/mrpigments
Death to Nuln oil, make it yourself
มุมมอง 390หลายเดือนก่อน
discord: dsc.gg/paintnerd Support: ko-fi.com/mrpigments
How to make acrylic paint at home
มุมมอง 265หลายเดือนก่อน
discord: dsc.gg/paintnerd Support: ko-fi.com/mrpigments
Perylene green PBk31 vs Perylene Black PBk32
มุมมอง 138หลายเดือนก่อน
discord: dsc.gg/paintnerd Support: ko-fi.com/mrpigments
The two types of PO49 Quinacridone gold
มุมมอง 102หลายเดือนก่อน
discord: dsc.gg/paintnerd Support: ko-fi.com/mrpigments
World's most toxic maroon pigment!?!?
มุมมอง 154หลายเดือนก่อน
discord: dsc.gg/paintnerd Support: ko-fi.com/mrpigments
How to use pigment dispersions(liquid pigments)
มุมมอง 1402 หลายเดือนก่อน
discord: dsc.gg/paintnerd Support: ko-fi.com/mrpigments
Vallejo acrylics is on strike
มุมมอง 5722 หลายเดือนก่อน
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weird mystery pigment
มุมมอง 2122 หลายเดือนก่อน
discord: dsc.gg/paintnerd Support: ko-fi.com/mrpigments
The best primary red/magenta?
มุมมอง 2362 หลายเดือนก่อน
discord: dsc.gg/paintnerd Support: ko-fi.com/mrpigments
Best Cyan? PG50 Teal vs PB28 Turquoise light
มุมมอง 2042 หลายเดือนก่อน
Best Cyan? PG50 Teal vs PB28 Turquoise light
Culture hustle replied and lied again
มุมมอง 3992 หลายเดือนก่อน
Culture hustle replied and lied again
Fading of fluo pigments and the duration
มุมมอง 1623 หลายเดือนก่อน
Fading of fluo pigments and the duration
Do not buy ABT502 until you see this video! *language warning*
มุมมอง 3784 หลายเดือนก่อน
Do not buy ABT502 until you see this video! *language warning*
Color mixing is easy with this one trick: A sardonic and annoyed rant *reupload*
มุมมอง 2434 หลายเดือนก่อน
Color mixing is easy with this one trick: A sardonic and annoyed rant *reupload*
Why all the hate for these colors? PV23 and PB60?
มุมมอง 3344 หลายเดือนก่อน
Why all the hate for these colors? PV23 and PB60?
Create your own blood for the blood god but better
มุมมอง 2925 หลายเดือนก่อน
Create your own blood for the blood god but better
Reviving a forgotten artifact of hobby paints
มุมมอง 3285 หลายเดือนก่อน
Reviving a forgotten artifact of hobby paints
4:32 Would Pro Acryl's Bismuth Yellow work for making your Goblin Green lookalike?
@@max34671 yes
@@MrPigments Thank you so much!
Great video. I'm going to give this a try!
New subscriber , first of all thanks a lot for all the work you provide on this channel this channel is like a gold of mine for people like me we do really appreciate you knowledge , second I respect your patient to still provide such knowledge even with low interections . Hope one day your dedicated work gets its deserved appreciation and recognition . Best of luck on your journey .
@@Lu3849 I'm happy with the views I get, I never expect to get this many.
Very interesting. As I see it, the only thing any white pigment does is to add opacity (which is why they are also known as opacifiers). So, I was quite surprised to see that cadmium is even more opaque than titanium. Maybe you should make a video about whether there is any functional difference between zinc white and titanium white with extra added filler? If all they do is add opacity, they should behave the same (perhaps with a slight difference in sheen). However, zinc white is often marketed as superior to titanium when mixing
@@kantamana1 that's a good idea honestly, I should do that video. But zinc is only considered superior because it doesn't do mix like a violet unlike titanium white which does.
I feel so vindicated using Mayan carmine
@@ignitedxblaze which brand or the original kind?
@MrPigments guerra
@@ignitedxblaze hell yeah, love guerra.
Wow those are some cringe names
I think it's useful to plot one's own pigments.
I have a tube of PG50 but it's actually not particularly useful. The phthalo family is more useful to me.
Subscribed. So glad to have found your channel. I first saw your comments on Stahly's review of VGC. Thank you for the granularity of your reviews!
That union are the worst pieces of shit ever
I also enjoy these chinese cartoons
@@alternate3787 Korea has been nailing it in anime recently. Was shocked at how much I didn't hate solo leveling.
Modern Japanese reads left to right, by row, like English. Traditional Japanese reads top to bottom, by column, from right to left, so you read down the page starting at the top right and then move leftward to the next column when you reach the bottom.
thank you, I legit had no idea how its supposed to be read, I also think I was confusing it with arabic as I do that a lot for some reason.
Not once did I think the paint man would go full weeb in a video explaining paint labels
@@tfemby well I did
Makes me think there needs to be standardization like Blue Wool to avoid confusion.
@@AlexYorim I agree. Thankfully a lot of the better brands are standardized to some extent
nice video! I'm new to learning pigment related stuff and your channel, so I was wondering what is the difference between that liquitex acrylic gouache you showed in the video vs. their soft body acyrlic? Is it just being more matte or do they have completely different formulation? My fiancee bought me the soft body set as a present, I've seen other mini painters try this gouache paint line (or golden soflat) so I hope I can use this one too :P
The acrylic gouache is more matte and "always opaque" which means they hide extra chalk and titanium white in it. The soft bodied paints are better IMO as the colors are more pure and clean.
I prefer pb 33 and pb 17 even though I can never seem to find any pb 17 anywhere
@15_heidune72 PB17 hasn't been made in a number of years, that's why you can't find it. I'm trying to track down a company that supposedly still makes it so I can test it's quality but it's tricky to find them
Sadly brand matters with this stuff. When I started airbrushing I used the Airbrush Thinner and Flow Improver from Vallejo in a mix like Vince Venturella suggested it on his channel, which doesnt work for me well "somehow". I used the mix for brush work once and found that the Flow Improver doesnt really act like a drying retarder. I got Flow Improver and "Slo Dri" from Liquitex and that stuff works like a charm. I dont have to think about how to use it, since it exactly does what it states on the lable
@@alternate3787that is because Vallejo does not use proper chemicals in their products. It is also not a reputable brand as in the professional art scene, their reputation is very lackluster to put it nicely. Their flow improver is butoxy ethanol which is a speed dryer in paint not a flow improver but can help with improving flow rates in theory.
Thanks for knowing the differences are. Though I have lingering questions, as this is related to primers: 1. I've seen some people using GAC to size their canvas or paper before priming it with gesso. I've read that GAC is made PVA and water, and I have thought if Elmer's glue diluted with water would be a substitute or if acrylic gesso is already enough since it's both sizing and primer according to Blick. I would assume that gessos from several brands have differing ingredients and proportions. I have considered making my own gesso out of household materials to save money. 2. I have a big bottle of acrylic emulsion (the flowy milky fluid that dries clear and glossy) my art teacher recommended me as a varnish for canvas. The acrylic paints I used when I stared in acrylic painting was house paint that dried matte. That emulsion is intended as a sealant and varnish for concrete walls. I have bought an acrylic medium intended for artwork and I noticed the emulsion and the medium have the same flow and coloration. Does the emulsion have additives that would prevent me from using it as an affordable acrylic medium and/or an ingredient for a homemade gesso?
1. You can yeah, but too much water and the canvas will absorb it and mold over but too little and it can get cracking issues so getting the ratio right is the tricky part, which i dont know the ratio since ive never done that. I've always just used gesso or gac. 2. I'd have to know the brand and generally varnishes are chemically different than binders so you cant use one as a primer per say.
@MrPigments 1. I think I'll settle for gesso in my sketchbooks and canvases for now, as I have been doing acrylics again for the past few months. I have been aiming on homemade gesso with acrylic, PVA glue, and chalk, though I'm not sure what would be the disadvantage if I pick the wrong proportion. 2. I'm using a Filipino brand called Bronco. There's another Filipino brand named Boysen that has this. It's primaily used as a waterproofing sealer and coat for concrete and stonework. Not sure what emulsion is called in America. I'm not sure if hardware stores sell acrylic medium binders or an equivalent to it.
@MrPigments 1. I think I'll settle for gesso in my sketchbooks and canvases for now, as I have been doing acrylics again for the past few months. I have been aiming on homemade gesso with acrylic, PVA glue, and chalk, though I'm not sure what would be the disadvantage if I pick the wrong proportion. 2. I'm using a Filipino brand called Bronco. There's another Filipino brand named Boysen that has this. It's primaily used as a waterproofing sealer and coat for concrete and stonework. Not sure what emulsion is called in America. I'm not sure if hardware stores sell acrylic medium binders or an equivalent to it.
@AlexYorim 1. I'll make a gesso video at some point. I just need to get more chalk as I'm out. 2. I'll look into those brands, thanks.
@MrPigments 👍🏽🧡
I was told at some point that Airbrush Flow Improver and "regular" or Flow Improver intended for use with brushes are two different things and that regular flow improver isn't very good to use through an airbrush because it means the paint won't atomise properly, or at least as easily. Is there any truth to this?
@@758richy that is something I've never heard and can't say I can find any truth to it.
Thanks for the video, appreciate it!
Thank you for making this, I think I'd like to keep on the lookout for some high flow medium. I have run into some issues with making washes some paints with water, so it sees useful to have on hand. Maybe get closer to what you can do with acrylic inks.
@@SentientTent it's very useful to have on hand in my opinion. It's watery thin so it has great applications for washes and thinning heavy bodied acrylics down a lot
How is it that pv23 is marked fugitive by few manufacturers (for example Schmincke) and quite lightfast by other manufacturer (especially the red shade, by Daniel Smith)
@@Phoyographer that is something that I need to look into because I don't know the exact reason myself.
Enter Islam and success. I replace this colour in my 55 colors paintbox with blockx transparent mars yellow I do like the pale greenish grays it makes...its hard to replicate with just green and black...
Amount of paint that soothes the heart
Hi, really informative video, thanks! I was hoping you could recommend a deforaming agent that could be used with acrylic miniature paints (Vallejo) as I'm having problems with excessive bubbles forming even just while picking up paint on the brush!
@@APykett-i6l I need to test it but you can probably use flow improver to thin it which should take away some of the bubbles
Thanks so much, I will give that a go! Also the same paint is not very durable when fully cured, from my amateur eye it would seem the paint has a lot of pigmentation (it dyes my brushes blue and is hard to wash out). Could it be that it's not very durable because it has a low amount of medium in it compared to pigment? And would adding medium rather than water help this durability issue? (Some of the surfaces have had 2 or 3 coats to full opacity and have been dry for at least a week).
@APykett-i6l you would need to add gloss medium and that wouldn't thin it down. But yes, The pigmentation is above the critical pigment volume concentration amount for the binder which makes it more matte. The staining of the brushes isn't caused by high pigmentation. It's caused by a specific pigment called phthalo blue.
That's amazing, thank you, this will save me so much time and hassle! Already liked and subscribed ;)
@@APykett-i6l There is another thing you can try too which is Golden GAC 200 medium, which helps with film durability and adhesion but its expensive in some countries and hard to get in others.
What's this Goblin Green? What's the fuss about it if it's just cadmium yellow and chromium oxide green?
@@awatercolourist it's a very in demand color from a paint line from the 1980s and no one's been able to produce a good one since. The reason why cadmium is a problem is because it's typically used on game pieces and the dust is hazardous so you don't want to use it for those. Basically I'm doing a lot of how to clone paint color videos as they get more views than my pigment things, but I'll still do normal pigment things too.
@MrPigments Ah ok, got you! Thanks.
@@MrPigmentswe love pigment videos.
I am not familiar with the old Citadel colors. But I do know ye old Vallejo Goblin Green which should be close to the Citadel counterpart, but it separates like hell. I always wondered why it acted so terrible
@@alternate3787 atomic weight, The Vallejo version uses yellow ocher and phthalo green, maybe chromium oxide? I have to check it again
Anyone you know have access to an Atomic Absorption spec to get the metals and check for 100% about the cadmium thing?
I wish. I hope I get access to one soon though because i have so many projects to test. Best I can do is get L*A*B* values and stuff like that at the moment. I'll get there one day where I can get access to one. that being said, the OG citadel waas HMG house paint and in the 80s it was common to use cadmium for walls before bismuth vanadate came to the scene.
@@MrPigments is that why it tasted so good :P
@OldManRogers yes
Raman of FTIR would be much cheaper to do.
Sick. Not glossy. Thank you.
@@cloud1306 no problem.
I love these short, and to the point, videos. I feel like I can totally do this! Thanks!
I might even turn them into shorts as people keep requesting those. This is sort of the content I want to do, plus resurrecting those old GW colors that aren't forgotten like goblin green.
So no matte medium like in the previous nuln oil recipe?
@@adioni4749 no I used it in there. It just was already in the cup before I recorded it from a previous recording. About 8ml of it to 12ml of water.
@@MrPigments Got it. Thank you for the clarification.
The discord server invite has expired.
discord.gg/M6d2FVJWVg Thanks fixed
That looks like straight up like PBr8 raw umber.
you wouldnt be far off
now i need to check the pigments inside aggrax lol
@@Aradebil I can never know exactly every time but I get close enough.
I don't think you said how much water
About half way so 12.5ml to about 8ml medium I think I did say it but my mic didnt pick it up or I said it in the previous borked recording and forgot here. I was sort of in a rush to get this out
Have you ever bought any of the Chinese internet mystery paints from either Amazon or Temu? If so, where did they measure up in the best of the worst and do you have the expertise to test them for lead or other toxins/cancerogens?
@@ParadoxriftsAU I have bought some and they weren't that bad, it was the arteza brand. Out side of that one time? No but I will for a video at some point. It just requires money I don't have money the moment. Still need to buy a microscope. But yes I do have that expertise as that was part of my job.
Ammonia is toxic and volatile, right? If we add it to paint won't it evaporate and eventually enter our lungs?
Ammonia is in most of your window cleaning fluids. You breath in heaps. It is not that bad.
Its used in ALL water based paint as a biocide and a pH stabilizer, but no it wont. Is it toxic? Not in these quantities.
I am wondering if without the ink it is equivalent to Lahmian Medium. Great video.
@@Interzone88 lahmian medium is glaze medium
Very useful info! I think i can handle making this. Thanks!
The paint cup you're using, it looks like from the lid that's a 25ml cup?
@@nonamo5700 yes. I didn't want to use ml ratios since that tends to be too technical for some people
@@MrPigments That's fair, though maybe a list of ratios at the end for those who do care to know? Or in the description perhaps Thank you for the video either way, I appreciate it!
@@nonamo5700 the agrax video will have them
@@MrPigments Right on, keep being awesome!
Great video. Thanks for showing us what goes into their shades. Maybe a follow up about contrast/speed paints?
That is coming, dont you worry.
Thank you for informing us of how you dispose of toxic paints. 👍
An excellent video that my non-technical oriented mind can follow! Love it! Still, I'm glad I can find this stuff in bottles😅.
Yeah its way more convenient hence why I have so many bottles of golden and tubes of michael harding
1) Do your homemade acrylics dry matte or glossy? 2) I do wonder if you'll or you've ever put Prussian Blue into acrylic? I know that Prussian blue is unstable with acrylic (the pigment is acidic while the acrylic binder is alkaline), but there's this one brand called Derivan Matisse that claimed to have used the real deal Prussian blue in acrylic instead of Phthalo blue-based hues. Matisse says it's a trade secret, so I do wonder if you'd make your own stabilized Prussian blue acrylic?
I tend to make them satin or eggshell. I dont like matte or high gloss for a few reasons mostly how much harder they are to work with since I mostly paint models. I have made prussian blue acrylic before and I know how to do it but the major risk is that it can create cyanide gas so its not a risk I want around if I screw up.
M Graham's version of quinacridone gold uses a mix of PY150 and PO48 (quinacridone orange). I typically keep PR101 on my palette and mix PY150 to get close enough when I need it. I haven't tried P048 nor M Grahams mix to know if that gets a result closer to the retired pigment.
@@allogistics2729 po48 is a retired pigment now too, hence why I don't mention it here but I do have some. But the mixture is very close to quin gold.
Red iron oxide or not, I do like the peach colour the two made when mixing them. Makes sense that a white-yellow and an orange would make a lazy flesh tone. Also youtube might have minced your audio a little. There was some weird cut-outs and a beep during the vid. Sounds a bit like compression artifacts but I'm no audio engineer.
@@tfemby thanks, might also be on my end too. I don't remember if I listened to this one prior or not
well guess that saves me a purchase on it. probably just going to add different yellow to my watercolor pallete. even though i do like the range from orangey to yellow Quin gold has. it's still pretty meh i guess.
I hoped with this version we’d get something a little closer to the most requested one; the version that DS used to have. I like the pigment, but for these too.. as marketed as something “very” different, it’s too similar. I can’t get over the extremely extinct 😅 Guerra says it too.. can something be just a bit extinct? 😉
@@dirtyblueshop but extreme sounds more extreme
Ooooh, the Holy Grail of pigments!