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@@HeavyDmechanical hey mate, I doubt it’d be the exact same box and it bell housing. I was super surprised by just how heavy it was so be careful. Most other boxes I could lower onto my chest and roll out with it. Regardless, the principle is the same for an SS. Thanks for watching champ!

@@javierargumedo3 it’s at the 45 minute mark mate. Yellow to reverse lights positive

And where did you connect white wire

@@javierargumedo3 white goes to Brake light positive

Saw you on appin road today in a maroon 80 saw the sticker on your car and gave you a sub

@@g0dlyg00n8 it should, you have to test which pin makes contact with the tip. Definitely best to try and get a mono plug not a stereo plug. Mono has 2 connections, centre pin and sheath, stereo has 3 connections.

@@dondada1949 great question, the system uses very minimal current and most reverse switches are rated significantly higher than the reverse globes themselves. A camera and the video switching input on a head unit also use very little power. I definitely wouldn’t add bigger reverse lights without using a relay but a camera and a sensor system is fine, even with CanBus monitored systems. If you had any concern, there’s definitely nothing stopping you from using an additional relay and power supply. I hope that cleared everything up for you.

@@JuniorTeaurima glad someone can benefit. I wasn’t going to do a video but when I did a bit of research, there wasn’t much info to go by. Thanks for watching and the feedback.

@@MrDodosh1986 I did yes. I will get the video uploaded tonight. Great timing. Thanks for checking back.

@@cmdraljaz77 glad to be of assistance! Thanks for watching and sharing your experience, enjoy.

@@GrantFixes Thanks for the great video, I installed one last year but I find that the sound is not the same quality as the factory Kia Rio, not nearly as loud. I think the amp in the factory head unit is much better quality. Will need to add an external amp to this Android unit I think. Wondering if anything extra will be needed than a 4ch amp?? Thanks.

@ unfortunately that is one thing that needs to be clarified when ordering the head unit. I’ve seen some with only 15W amplifiers built in which is insufficient. The ones I buy usually have a 45-50W per channel power rating. As far as bringing yours up to scratch, a 4 channel amplifier and wiring kit is a minimum. There should be RCA outputs for the 4 channels on the head unit which is a better option than high level speaker inputs. When buying an amp, if you keep the factory speakers, stay small. A 200W Peak amp will probably do. There is a lot more to know about matching and amp selection. RMS power is the ideal method of matching Amps to Speakers but only the peak power is stamped on the factory speakers. Going too big has the potential to melt the coils of the speakers. I hope this helps some. You can hit me up on Insta @grantfixes for more details if need be. Thanks for watching and all the best

@@GrantFixes that is a lot of help thank you so much. I did buy 150 w Android deck but I think it's false advertising from China 😂

@@jondoe8816 they just pull out. It will be in there pretty good and can take a bit of effort but will just pull straight out.

@@grahamcourt3166 what makes you say that? It is a DIY channel and I make no claims I am a professional however I am experienced enough to offer some insight to help others reduce the cost of repairs in this financially challenging world. If there’s anything you can contribute to benefit anyone, please by all means do so, if you just want to be negative and Troll, move on.

@@witty_32 there is a few options online. I bought this one through AliExpress. EBay and Amazon also have options. The operating system and CarPlay apps may differ.

@@TheGallo1 Sí, necesitarás un enchufe mono de 3,5 mm para conectar el micrófono de fábrica y conectarlo a la nueva radio Translation: Q. Hello. The input to use the factory microphone is 3.5mm ?? A. Yes, you will need a 3.5mm mono plug to wire the factory microphone and plug into the new radio

@@allandoyle3555 easiest thing to do is to take a quick measurement of the diameter and length and check on the Ol’ eBay. You’ll typically find a pretty cheap option.

@@allandoyle3555 thanks for watching. I just ordered one with the right length and diameter to suite.

@@seanclayton8181 funny you ask. It’s in my daughter’s car and she told me yesterday, at the end of winter, the heater barely works and if the AC is on it’s freezing even at 28 degrees. I checked the sensor location and it’s reading properly, the heater tap is working and if I hold it open manually it gets hot in the car. Everything points to a fault in the facia system. I would look for a different option. There’s an android “Tesla” style but it’s pretty pricey.

@@afzalsuri4042 western Sydney NSW buddy

@@GrantFixes 😂😂😂 I’m in England anyway you did a great job …

@@rbutane ok, yes contact adhesive is good on both surfaces to form a bridging bond. The fabric is an OEM lining material specifically designed for roof linings and the spray adhesive I used does not require application to both surfaces with lightweight materials. If you were using a leather or suede definitely apply to both sides.

@@GrantFixes Interesting. I do get what you're saying however I use this stuff at work regulary and on different lightweight fabrics. Have seen some come off after only a few weeks due to both surfaces not being sprayed with contact adhesive. Also, being a hood liner you need to factor in gravity.

@@pat8988 not required mate. They have cable entry seals on the sensors and are pretty well shielded from the elements. The sensors are made for the installation and I have never had an issue with water ingress. If you have some basic know how it’s really not a hard job, can be somewhat time consuming for the first time.

@@hannisyoung5772 it all depends on the car. Quite a few you can reach behind and push it back in place. If not, you may have to remove the bumper to access it

@@GrantFixes Hey, thanks for getting back to me, I've since found out that the Bumper on my VE Commodore will need to come off....

@@hisnibs-uf2vm it should be automatic once you connect to Bluetooth. Make sure your Wifi is on. They use an app for it. Some use “CarLink” and others use “Z-Link”. There could be others but these are what I’ve encountered.

Z-link indeed many thanks.

@@hisnibs-uf2vm on these replacements the start stop is typically clipped or screwed into the facia. Other than removing the switch from your old to new facia, nothing further is needed

@@normancooke1589 100%, it’s taken everything I have not to post a video of their incompetence. They did a battery drain test and told me there was a drain of .04Amps. I did it and got 4.7A. When you go near the car with the key, even if it’s locked, it spikes to almost 8A obviously waking up some computers. They argued it’s the dashcam and UHF I installed, dashcam been disconnected for over a month at that time to make sure and I’ve never installed a UHF in this car. Above that, the aftermarket dual battery system also causes a drain but, once again. Non existent. Apart from a dashcam and the wrap, it’s stock. My next point will be to disconnect Toyotas monitoring system. We don’t drive the car often and it’s a pain in the ass constantly charging and mucking around. I currently run a trickle charger. If your batteries going flat that bad all the time, do you want me to post a video on the other things that need to be calibrated like the mirrors and seat and windows?

@@GrantFixes It would be interesting to disconnect monitoring system?? not sure how, and see what it does. I turned off wifi yesterday, not sure it that will improve things or even what it does?? FYI I set the key so that when you walk up to the car you Must manually unlock car, then you must hold key on start button before you can start it. (might help with that 8A spike?) I did that mainly for security as even the Toyota dealer had the key and could not start car..LOL. I have never liked self opening cars anyway.. Not sure if I need to know about those other calibrations but would be interested if you do.. Thanks

I was getting low battery and changed to dual under bonnet Lithum. no issues now. Did so because of the always on dash cam. Dont care about the negatives of under bonnet Lithium.

@ I had a big argument with my local dealer, made another video showing their incompetence but held off posting it. Since we brought it home the battery has run flat if not run for only a week. The battery was load tested by an independent and came back with healthy readings. It gradually got worse until it only lasted a day before it wouldn’t crank. After being to the dealer a couple of times and a 3 day parasitic drain test conducted they said it was the dash cam, UHF and dodgy dual battery solenoid installed. Only problem was the dash cam had been completely disconnected and it’s never had dual batteries or a UHF!! I later found out through other channels it has to do with Toyotas new modem and data logging system which can keep computers active for data acquisition including vehicle state and details as well as location, constantly. I was able to remove those functions and opt out of their data collection and haven’t had a problem since. Battery hasn’t been on a charger for months and even sits there for 2 weeks with no hassle. When I tested the drain myself with a power logger, at random times even in the middle of the night it would drawer over 7 amps then be back to .045 amps, now it only spikes if you take the key near it.

@@thegamingpanda5039 sorry, no I don’t. I just took mental note of the way it ran pulley to pulley and only popped it off the alternator

@@itehskulled no, canbus is not required for steering wheel controls on most vehicles. Typically it’s 2 wires with varying resistance for each control output and that’s why you need to program the steering wheel controls to the head unit. These wires are already connected in the harness provided. Only vehicles running full CanBus need a decoder box, ie Fibre Optic or units like the Peugeot’s that control additional features through the head unit to the BCM for menus and setting the time etc.

@@cainmcintyre1431 sorry, pull what through? The cable? There’s plenty of room underneath to get around everything pretty easily. If you have trouble getting up to the cab, you can use a bit of plastic tongue or even tie a string on to the old one before you pull it out.

@@kerimdaouda5784 Red Accessories or Ignition Positive, Yellow to Reverse Positive, White to Brake light Positive and Black to Negative

@@Meyersons I’m glad you like it and hope you find it useful. Yes, I do believe this unit will fit 2011 to 2015 models. If it looks like this one, you should be good.

@@GrantFixes cheers mate

Definitely, yes. Kia Rio 2012 👍

@@alwaleedalhinai4738 the front sensors are engaged when you brake. If your close enough in traffic for it to be annoying, you’re to close to the vehicle in front of you. This is a factory option in most new cars. My land cruiser and Cayenne have factory front sensors and it isn’t an issue

@@samueliwuajoku2911 I’m not sure mate. You may have an issue somewhere. Could be something a Toyota technician would have to look at for you. By all means, try again, maybe even disconnect the battery for a couple of minutes to ensure everything is powered down and go through the process again. There will be other things that will require reprogramming like power seats and auto windows.

@@achyutkotte6151 thanks for your question. This is a bit of a complicated one, your car would have to be setup, pre wired for it, there is also additional computers, sensors and other components required. It’s not just a mater of checking a box unfortunately. Once everything is installed, there may also be different software required for the gateway that would also require purchasing and no doubt only able to install and setup with Toyota OBD software the likes of TechStream2. Quite honestly the cost of which would make me cringe. It would be a significantly cheaper option to install an aftermarket system which would not require new wheels either. The sensors screw onto your valve as caps. The factory style sensors are installed as opposed valves drilled into the wheel from factory.

@@GrantFixesThankyou but if there’s a way that we can integrate it into the Orginal settings where I can see it in the menu would be helpful

@@achyutkotte6151 that’s not an option as this is part of the dealer settings. That’s something you would have to take up with Toyota global. I’m just a guy showing you how to sort an annoying problem very common on almost all newer model Toyotas on this video. Without having hands on your particular vehicle, I couldn’t say if you could or couldn’t get it done. Best advice is ask your local dealer mate.

@@hisnibs-uf2vmthanks watching. I bought it from AliExpress Android 14 Car Radio For Kia RIO 4 K3 2011 - 2015 Multimedia NO 2Din 4G WIFI BT GPS Navigation Carplay Head Unit RHD Stereo Auto a.aliexpress.com/_mMpVSB2 There are plenty of other sellers and options.

@@FrankObi-c4u on the factory plug that has the power on it, the same one as the microphone I explained, there are wires for the factory back up camera. Pin 6 is the camera +video wire, Pin 18 is the camera -video, Pin 7 is the camera + power wire and Pin 23 is the camera - power wire. I can’t post photos on comments but I’ll put a couple up on instagram if you want to head there. Thanks for watching!

Of course I will like to watch the full video Appreciated

@@diemen1814 there is a WiFi button on the side of the camera. The system should announce the wifi is on when it boots up. The WiFi will turn off after a while but can be turned back on with the button.

@@GrantFixes is it just as easy as a click of a button? I have been trying for several days I think the button might be faulty but I’m not 100%

@@diemen1814 it should tell you when it boots up “WiFi on, 5G WiFi” if you hear that, and the little blue light in the switch is on, the WiFi is on. If it’s not coming on and the button isn’t working to switch it on, the unit may be faulty.

@@Sammy.Boi725 yes, for sure it will work without the rear camera. The rear camera just plugs in. If you use the hardwire kit, you can set the parking mode up so it will record from vibration among other settings.

@@cabbagebap350 please confirm the “ZLink” app is installed. Make sure your Wifi is on and not connected to any other networks. Connect to Bluetooth through the “phone” app. If it doesn’t auto connect and open the “ZLink” app, once connected open the ZLink app and make sure you give your phone permission to use CarPlay. I’d think it best to contact the seller about the Steering Controls app. It may be hidden or not installed. Let me know how you go.

Hi thankyou very much I’ve got my steering wheel controls all sorted but I think zlink is for android I’m apple I didn’t make that very clear my apologies 😂

Still can’t connect my iPhone 14

@@cabbagebap350 the ZLink app works for Android Auto and Apple CarPlay. Without being in front of it makes it a little hard to diagnose. Please check your phone settings. Sometimes you have to connect to the head unit with Bluetooth and go into the settings in your phone to enable CarPlay.

@@tshepopaulsenmoto7930 thanks for the feed back!! Keep us posted on your install. I have installed several of these and similar units in multiple cars and manufacturers with excellent results.

@@GrantFixes Definitely will provide feedback.

@@therightconnectionn a lot of online places have them. I bought mine on eBay. They’re available on Temu, Amazon and AliExpress. Just make sure you get the right USB type for the camera you have. The Azdome I install use a micro USB and are about $25AUD

@@arielrwc have you programmed the controls? If you are in the programming for the steering wheel controls and it doesn’t see the input, check all of your connections are good and tight, no loose pins and try again.