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I have a 2008 P226 (.40 S&W, converted to 9mm) and a 2024 P229 Legion (9mm). For me, with me using my P229 Legion for carry, I don’t see me upgrading it, it’s fine as it came. My good old P226, I may do some Grayguns upgrades, but I’m in no hurry to do so.

The gap is not an issue. Ive shot hundreds of rounds, some loaded to near major and the sight (Holosun Comp GR)hasn't moved or loosened and the screw engagement is greater with direct mount. On my P226 X5 STAS, which has identical cut, I have had a Holosun 507C-GR-X2 and currently an SRO and both work great and stay put with direct fit and cowitness with the rear sight which I was finally able to acquire for both guns.

I wished Holosun sent the shorter screws in the original packaging

What screwdriver or tool did you use for the fdez works screws?

I just got P226 LEGION PRO-CUT 9MM 4.4" SLIDE ASSEMBLY, OPTIC READY and I’m having a hell of a time getting the optic plate off the slide, anyone else have this issue?

I also had a hard time. I had to travel about an hour and a half away from my home, but it was well worth the trip. It really is a good-looking weapon, and I do enjoy shooting it. I purchased to carry model also.

Nice. I picked one up yesterday and found your channel. Subbed. 👉🏼💨

I just picked up a P229 Legion DA/SA, manufactured 2/16/24. The model number is E29R-9-LEGION-R2. It comes optic ready, I believe the R2 in the model number refers to it being optic ready.

Great video! I'm putting together a similar set up but on the P226 scorpion which I had to buy the optic ready pro slide for.

Looking. at. same setup but. considering the Sig Romeo x pro as it looks like it fits better? Any thoughts on that one?

Great video 🔥

I love my MK25, there is a difference in the rail. The reset, and trigger. I put the SRT, short trigger and upgraded the night sights too the X-Ray 3 night sights

Tried to leave a comment on latest video but comments are turned off?

M4 not much more anymore! Well as it comes, then you gotta spend another 1k to have all the same features thats on the 1301.

At least LTT gives you a case, and not just a cardboard box.

I did this but XL with the icarus grip, zev slide and battle sights, griffin threaded barrel, sig custom fcu, magguts inserts, eps carry. Fun little gun suppressed.

Baseplates???

Definitely ordered the wrong light too! How hard would it be for Streamlight to make it clearer or add the adapters to the kits!

This is a very well made weapon. I love mine, it's not concleable but it is accurate reliable and a hell of a man stopper.

Some things are better left alone. I absolutely love the p226 X5 pistols but the fact you can adjust it to the point the safety doesn’t work is a little nerve wracking

What base plate is that?

Any update on your shooting after installing the red dot? Is the dot interfering with the front sight?

got my screws off Amazon the next day M3-0.5 x 8 the ones from holosun are M3-0.5 x 10 I believe they made in china but seem to be fine

Update?

Instructions to break loose OEM screws: I dove a little more into how to remove the OEM screws for the FT Bullseye sight. Here are some conditions and instructions to remove these OEM screws: 1) There is a spot of blue locktite on the threads of the OEM screws for the recessed FT Bullseye sight. 2) A consideration of blue locktite is that trying to patiently break loose the screws activates the locking function of the locktite by "bunching" it up and binding the threads like you would expect if you were tightening the screws rather than loosening them. 3) Locktite can be heated using a soldering iron (minus the solder) or hot glue gun (minus the hot glue) by resting the hot end on each screw for five-ten minutes each. 4) It helps to have the following tools: bench vice, a thick rag, hot glue gun or soldering iron, impact drill with torx bits (T9) in S2 Steel. Carbon Veranium (CrV) torx bits in hand-crank drivers will be stripped because of the OEM screw tension and locktite. Once you've heated one screw for five-ten minutes, drop the thick cloth into the vice followed by your SAS slide with the screws accessible. Tighten the vice just enough so your SAS slide doesn't move freely. Drop your torx bit impact driver into the heated OEM screw, turning by hand until the torx bit fully seats into the screw. Now, apply your body weight into the impact driver and then squeeze the trigger on your impact driver. The process will take about a second to break the OEM screws free, but they will break free. Repeat for the other screw and you can pick up on this video with your optic replacement. One side note to expect with the Holosun optic on the P365 SAS is that if your holster is made for P365 SAS, you may find, as I did, that it doesn't necessarily fit snug into the holster. I own an Aliengear holster and found that it can fit, barely, if I allow the holster to push the Holosun optic and slide back a little (about 3-4 mm), then the trigger guard will activate locking it in place. However, the trigger guard did need to be tightened more due to the pistol being under spring tension by the slide spring. It's just a little tension, and certaily not enough to be worried about accidental discharge, but that was my primary concern. I could soften the holster plastic with a heat gun and mold it to the Holosun optic by firmly pressing the pistol into the holster and keeping my thumb or palm of my hand on the rear of the slide in order to remove the spring tension, but that is a project for another day. EDIT: In researching the kind of material that Aliengear uses for their holsters, I found they don't use traditional Kydex plastic, but instead use something called, "ShapeShift," which is a kind of proprietary nylon polymer, slightly more resistant to heat and breakage than Kydex. Instead of heating the Aliengear holster to fit the Holosun optic accessory, which was causing the slide to be slid back putting it under spring tension, I found a simpler, safer, and less time-consuming way than trying to heat the nylon polymer holster. Instead, I just used a razor, much like you'd use on carpet or drywall, measured out the clearance needed, marked twice, and cut. It came out perfect! Because Aliengear is black, there is hardly any distinctive ridges from the cut, and now the P365 SAS with Holosun optic safely and securely seats in the Aliengear holster without the slide being pushed back and under spring tension. Hope this helps out my fellow firearms enthusiasts.

Great vid, thanks.

If you could only afford one like myself would you buy the mk25 or the legion?

Thank you very much for this video! I just adjusted all 4 screws and I gotta tell you sig did it right one this! Expensive…yes! But it’s worth every penny.

What’s the recommended torque for the two mounting screws?

So which one would you buy if you can only get one lol I ant to get one but not sure which one

If u have the Tacops version get the 1913 version, then u can put the Tactical development pro ledge and get u a holster from QVO Tactical.. You're welcome

I got the correct screws and didn't use a plate. BUT... I did install a Metal Shim Plate at the back to remove the minor amount of slop when the EPS Carry was installed. I found that without a shim plate, even with the proper screws fully tightened down, I could move the optic ever so slightly. It was enough to shift my point of aim by an inch or 2 at 20-25 yards. Which to ME was totally unacceptable.

Have they updated these yet or do I still need to buy this key in May of 2024. What is the name of the company.

Phhh you don’t even got the extendo titty or potato shushee with the switchy?? Obviously kidding. Awesome pistol. My Legion is basic aside from a Romeo 1 Pro. Thing shoots like a dream.

What size True precision barrel do you have ??

Just bought the TLR 7 sub and the key fit just fine. They must have fixed that.

I heard if you purchase one , get the ported version!

Just buy the new MOD 2 with the new for-end and be done with it and buy a Kick’s BUCKKICKER choke and carry on.

The Mossberg 940 pro tactical is a fast boy too. You won’t outrun it, or the A300. MANY SAY THEY CAN BUT THERE IS ONLY ONE JM AND HE CAN OUTRUN A ROAD RUNNER,,,,WITH ANY FIREARM.

I’m on the fence right now between my 1301 and my M4 but dollar for dollar straight out of the box , the Beretta A300 ULTIMA PATROL smokes them both.

I have a p226 legion da/sa and im in the market for a p220 legion 45acp and p229 legion as well. My local store sells the mk25 for the same amount as a legion, if i could somehow score a mk25 for under $1k ill buy that as well.

What’s the streamlight TLR-7 SUB 1913 part number?

Where can I find that trigger?

What holster does everyone use for this?

What was the price on this setup with the plate and the optic?

Nice

I went with the 1301 comp version personally as the iron sight is nice but its a shotgun and shotguns shoot birdshot and birds fly and ghost sights are not very good for shooting flying stuff so the bead sight of the comp makes the shotgun far more useful and it can take all the same mods you can add a red dot if you want too and also take it off if you want to shoot clays or birds

No lock tight?

I disagree with a lot here. Why buy new barrel and slide controls when you can cerakote originals? Why not add gas pedal to your tlr7 and why not Mcarbo trigger that IMPROVES functionality and not just the look. No aftermarket backstrap?? Not even wilson combat grip? Idk man, this video missed a lot and spent money on unnecessary stuff

What size torque wrench for screws on optic mount ?.?