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mikesmithroller
United Kingdom
เข้าร่วมเมื่อ 5 มี.ค. 2013
Useful things I can pass on!
Unboxing and installing a Screwfix Swirl Elevate basin tap
How to change Screwfix Swirl Elevate basin taps
มุมมอง: 2 369
วีดีโอ
Mercedes C-Class S203 W203 EASY replacement rusty rear BRAKE LINES / PIPES
มุมมอง 17K5 ปีที่แล้ว
Rusty brake pipes on the back of your Merc? How to replace the pipes WITHOUT removing exhaust, rear subframe, propshaft, undertrays, fuel tank & more!
Mercedes C-Class S203 W203 EASY replacement rear mud shields/splash plates/disc guards/dust covers
มุมมอง 100K5 ปีที่แล้ว
Corroded disc shields on your Merc? How to replace the rusted shields WITHOUT removing & dismantling the hub or getting the bearings pressed out.
Hello, can i just lower the fuel tank to get to/examine the brake lines as opposed to removing the fuel tank on 2004 benz c240 w203? Or is there a way to examine and replace the portion of the brake lines that are above the gas tank on w203. Any suggestions? Can I get to them from the salon rear seat by cutting the metal or something like that?
I never got as far as removing the tank, sorry. It looked to me as if the tank was a saddle-shape that went over the prop shaft, which would have meant removing a whole lot more. The brake lines looked well protected up there.
@@mikesmithroller Do you think it's possible to lower the gas tank on one side of the tank without disconnecting all the hoses and not damaging the whole structure?
Very good idea! Thanks mate❤
Klej do szyb samochodwych tylko trzeba odtłuscic.
I've enjoyed watching your video, but I wouldn't do it your way.
PATRICK
MERCI BEAUCOUP super cela m a été très utile thank's
Excellent
Thank you so much! Definitely saved my day!
hi what adessive did you use please
Hi ... it was one of the modified polymer sealants, I think I used Puraflex 40 although that's only because I had some laying around. There were no rattles from the back end, so I guess it has done the job! good luck.
HI There i know this is an old video so you may not reply, but just wanted to confirm that you took the subframe bolts right out ? as at the start of the video you say you just loosened them ? did i miss the bit where you took them right out ? as at the end you say you will put the bolts back in, if you can find time to reply it would be appreciated. cheers Mark.
From memory I loosened the right hand side which kept it all aligned, but carefully dropped out the bolts on the left hand side, keeping the subframe supported as the springs will be pushing it downwards. Been a long time, sorry! Good luck.
Thanks to this video was able to do my clk500 thank you
I have a W212 and mercedes just replaced the rear subframe free of charge under extended warranty , however they did sting me for other work, BUT they never mentioned the rear disc mud guards had holes in them, Its a later model than yours so i hope i can do the same as you as there is no way i want to pull the hub off, Many thanks its what i needed to see.
I guess this would work on the W202 as well as the setup looks identical. Will order some cheap back plates to butcher and get this done as I fear there is already a lot of rotational play in my handbrake lol. RIDEX brand off autodoc are cheap :). The rear bearings frequently get damaged removing them to do this job and it's a false economy not to change them anyway. However I fail to see the point in destroying/ changing bearings which have no play and make no noise just to change a cheap bit of tin plate. Thanks for the video :)
Evalaner 2008 3.5 hou to replace well peuring
Thanks for the upload, I've came across this problem and all my experience is in FWD cars so I hit the part where the shield can't clear the hub flange (oh darn) then researched just how much stripping you need to get the cheapest part off and it's incredible!
Exactly what I needed! I have all the gear, quality street lid, skint knuckle stuff included😀
Brought me a smile. Thanks fella.
Thanks for sharing. Are you sure the copper line is strong enough to the pressure? Isn’t the original line made of steel? It’s amazing the brake line is not made of easily replaceable sections. It seems the brake line designers never replace a brake line.
That’s the way to do it, no problem job done,excellent video 👍
Thanks for the tips
I lost hope when I took the disc off. Thanks for brilliant idea. I wonder how many people have seen this video after dismantling half of their cars.
Good video super Thank you
Now that's what I call DIY !!.....although my local mechanic did it for me 😉...excellent 👍💋
How much did he charge? Please give me his number 😅
@@ka5269 ...3 years ago!!!!.....he's retired now...he was 80 years old back then , bless him...sorry
@philmarino9386 no probs. Good old fashioned mechanic . I went to a Merc indie and he said he would only fix it the proper way for safety reasons! 🤷🏽♂️
Brilliant thanks!
Oh boy, you are a life saver, thank you
Doing this right now on my C280, but mine are rusted above the tank as well so I'm cutting the lines in front of the tank and running new ones along side of the tank. I'm using copper nickel with DIN bubble flare fittings. I was able to get the pipes routed in the stock location after they pass the fuel tank without lowering the subframe on mine, since I don't have to flare anything up above the subframe. It's a bit disappointing they didn't use a better line coating.
Hi I have to do the same job as you!!! What size are the subframe securing bolts please?
Hi ... I'm sorry I really can't remember, I think they were a Torx head, and I just used one of the standard set I have. Sadly we no longer have the car.
Im just about to do this. Gotta buy a 10mm inverse torx for the subframe bolts. Tried with 7/16ths and rounded the tool. Impact driver (big makita one) wouldnt move it. Left it to soak in wd40 gonna use a big bar on them.
@@rcaguitars I soaked mine in fast penetrant WD40 overnight and JUST shifted them with a LONG breaker bar!
@@scopex2749 thanks. My sockets arrive tomorrow. Got a more powerful battery for the impact and will spray them up again to soak overnight. I think a big bar will be the way. Also gotta lube up the parking brake release where it splits under the rear seat as the car has been sat for many months
For anyone else who hasnt already got the bolts out it was an e16! Impact driver did it no probs with the right bit and the 5mAh battery. Having trouble getting bubble flare on the existing steel as i ignored the warnings and bought the cheap tool since this is a task i intend to do only once. It requires bubble flare which just pushes the tube back through the clamp even if i use a spanner on the wing nuts. Going to try again and put a little bend just behind the clamp to try and alleviate this. Also (not advised) im going to heat the end a bit once clamped to try and softwn the steel a little. Not advised as brake fluid WILL burn and you are near the fuel tank! A nice flush cut and a gentle tickle with a file to almost put a champher on the end will deffo help too. Failing that im going to completely remove the rear undertray and try joining it near the bracket there instead. Will lift the arse end up with a jcb telehandler if i have to. Headaches. I just want to put an mot on it so i can sell the bloody thing so not looking to spend more than the car is worth. Note: i tried the single flare (which isnt allowed on brake lines) and the first two times it split on the flare and the third time it didnt split but leaked anyway.
How long did this job take you from start to finish?
Hi, I guess excluding getting the car jacked up, maybe a whole afternoon? 3-4 hours by the time it was all bled? I'm not a pro, as you can probably tell!
Damn I’ve got same car
Genius!
watched your step by step guide and did the same to my clk55 today went like clock work i would recommend DIN connectors and flares all round many thanks for your advice saved me a fortune .
Great, glad it worked for you. Saves a very heavy bill at the dealership!
Thank you very much for this! I think I will do it this way too. What adhesive sealant did you use?
Hi ... it was one of the modified polymer sealants, I think I used Puraflex 40 although that's only because I had some laying around. There are no rattles from the back end, so I guess it has done the job! good luck.
i got two back plates from mercedes delivered £16. 60 for my veto
worth checking with your Merc dealer for sure, they can sometimes be surprisingly cheap. I just replaced a (genuine) rear lower control arm on mine for less than some of the used ones on eBay.
back plate one cut at narrowest point with a hacksaw no grinders
So glad I've watched this, after replacing brake pipes as your other video shows, I've also had to replace backplates & shoes. Thanks for the tips.
Sounds like your Merc is about the same condition as mine! Have you checked the front plates? I had to do all 4 of mine at the same time.
Great tips, watched this a few times now, learned how to make flares etc, got all the kit and I'm just about to do the same on my c class, did you have any trouble flaring the existing steel pipes?
With the Clarke kit I had, it was quite easy. I chose that type of pipe connector because it took the simple flare rather than the bubble type flare, which I figured would be easier in steel. Never done it in steel before, and it went like a dream. The Merc is still on the road ... passed its MOT last month ...! Good luck. Not a fun job.
Brilliant idea, save a lot of work
Thanks ... hope it was useful
Great video the only thing is the flare for the flexipipe should be a DIN bubble flare not SAE
Great tip, thanks for pointing this out, I didn't make it clear in the video that the flexi pipe flare needs to be the other type.
Oh god. This is so daunting. My W203 didn't make it through the EU regulations test thing, so i went and bought myself a W211. The plan is to give the C-class to my brother, but for it to be approved for the road i need this done and there's absolutely no chance i'll be paying out my ass for it to be done professionally. All i have to say is thank you for making this video! I'll be using it as a sort of reference.