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Thanks for watching!

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You do not need to add grease but I typically clean and regrease every year or so. Phil's Tenacious Oil is the weapon of choice here, or any hub or bearing grease.

I use Phil Wood tenacious oil but any high-weight oil will do the trick. Gear oil for car transmissions is the optimal consistency to aim for. Too thin and it deteriorates quickly, too thick and the pawls stick. You can also use lithium grease for a more robust waterproofing but oils are more suited to the job.

I did some research, corrected my idea, and ended up getting the same upgrade for my Slash. Ha. The way the catches are spaced, only a single point grabs at a time.. so doubling the count actually doubles the chances of engagement.. And it sounds obnoxiously awesome

@@antaltieri7154 also wear out twice as fast depends whats more important wear or on instant throttle

@@kilner79 gotta go fast

Use dumonde freehub grease for quiet hubs. Dumonde freehub oil for a horde of bees

No I have a marlin too and they come with cheap freehubs that aren’t upgradable.

I've seen where it is possible but different paws are used for shimano freehub body, there not compatible with rapid drive hub.

You should be good with this upgrade, I just did my 2021 Fuel ex 9.7

Do you know what freehub the wheelset has? The SRAM NX (and SX) line uses a different spline pattern than the rest of their 12 speed cassettes. All sram GX and above use an XD driver, everything else uses the shimano standard spline. If you have an XD freehub on your wheelset and a GX or above cassette, they will work. Only reason I harp on the details is that SRAM NX uses the shimano standard for extreme cost savings and people always try to swap them over to XD driver wheelsets.

Adventure Arkansas thank for the detailed reply! The wheel I’ve seen has the 148 shimano freehub and my bike has the Sram NX 12 speed. So I’m guessing my bike has the 148 shimano freehub on my bike as well then? It just confuses the hell out of me when the description of the wheels say “148 shimano 10/11 speed”

@@redbul3335 Yup it has what's referred to as the hyperglide freehub. Shimano has kept (basically) the same spline pattern for freehubs since ditching the threaded freewheel. Shimano 12 spd is on a different spline pattern called Microspline. Let's break it down: 148 = 148mm over locknut distance (OLD) this is the hub spacing on the wheels. This size is known as boost spacing. Regular thru axle is 142x10 and quick release is 135x9. If you try to put a 148 in a 142 frame, it won't fit (too big). Likewise a 142 wheel will be too small to fit in a 148 frame. Shimano 10/11 speed simply means that is has the hyperglide spline pattern. 6-11 speed cassettes will fit on a hyperglide freehub, sometimes they use a small spacer to account for freehub width changes over the years. Like my previous comment said, most SRAM 12 speed will use the XD driver. And now that Shimano has 12 speed, they use the Microspline freehub for their stuff. I've been out of technical work for awhile, so I'm not sure if ALL shimano 12 speed uses microspline or if it's just high end stuff like sram. If you're looking to buy a wheel to transfer your cassette onto, buy one with a shimano freehub. If you're wanting to upgrade to a GX cassette (saves a LOT of weight!) you can buy a wheel with an XD driver and get a GX cassette as well. All sram 12 speed groupsets work interchangeably which is one of the reasons I've been recommending their stuff since Eagle came out. Cheers

Only way to check is to tear the hub apart. The hubs on my bike were bontrager branded 'rapid drive' hubs.

Adventure Arkansas well fine then. 😂😂 Good video dude.

Ya I'm curious about this too

Lube used in the freehub will have a noticeable difference when on the stand. You should be using a light grease such as Phil Wood slick honey or DT swiss star ratchet grease. A thicker grease like wheel bearing grease will slow things down a tad. To isolate problems, you want to remove all other factors - take the wheel off the bike and spin the hub. This will eliminate other variables like dragging brakes, overtight axle, draggy wheel bearings etc. Compare that to other bikes and see what the difference is. Be aware that cassettes weigh differently between brands and groupset so a GX 10-50 will sound and feel different than a shimano slx 11-42 off the bike. Best way to compare is to take the cassette off as well. To your point about the engagement increase - it's less about being 'quick' as it is about making the bike feel more tight and responsive. Trials-type slow speed maneuvers are a lot easier on a bike with fast engagement. Personally that's why I went with this mod, as I do a fair amount of tech riding compared to folks who do more mileage.

@@piercereed6000 yes

@@piercereed6000 Maybe I misunderstand what you're asking. I got rid of my Stache so I don't remember what wheels were stock. What is shown in this video is an upgrade to the stock hub on the stock wheel - they stay together, there is no need to fit anything to a hoop or do anything with spokes.

I've lost a few of those springs in my day :)

@@adventurearkansas9926 i am currently looking for a plastic pulley that goes on my false axle from park tool, that i use to clean the back end and mech with the wheel off. Any ideas on what i might have handy that would fit on an axle, that is plastic, that i could slip on there to hold the chain? Grrrrr. i also hate black parts as they are real hard to find.

@@alutious Old jockey wheel is the first thing that came to mind. Or rig two plastic bottle caps (think gatorade sized) open ends out and the chain should stay in the center. You'll need to drill them in the center or use a knife or something. If it's a thru axle a piece of garden hose is something i've seen before as well - probably the most durable and easiest option.

@@adventurearkansas9926 Interesting. For a thru axle the park tool says to not use the tool, it says to pull the pulley off and just put that on the axle, and put the axle back in without the wheel. This is how i lost it lol. So I don't think i would trust a bottle cap on my axle. However, i might be able to use the rest of the tool, not sure. I think the mini axle is for a skewer. One of the benefits of the pulley and the park tool thingy is you can still shift and it slides along in the back. I have a broken derailleur with some spare jockey wheels. How you would rig those up? The center of the pulley is too small for an axle. Got me thinking. I could drill them out and then smooth them by wet sanding or steel wool.

@@alutious If the pulley would work on the tool that's what i would recommend. A lot of times you can just press the bearings out if they're off a high end derailleur. I'm not super familiar with that type of tool, anytime i'm doing work on the chain or derailleur i'll have the wheel on the bike.

Mine has an XD driver yes. I believe you can also get this hub with a shimano freehub as well

Same here in US unfortunately... Gotta order them from a Trek store or bike shop that sells Trek.

That's a new one! The steel drive rings are often interference pressed into the hub or spline fit tolerance pressed into the hub. Either way, if the drive ring is loose and able to spin - the hub is toast. Can you post a picture to imgur and paste the link? Or upload a short vid to youtube - I'm curious to see what is happening.

Adventure Arkansas sure. A vid could explain better the thing. I’ll tell you when i upload it

Hey Mathias, I had the stock ones on my Remedy for about a year before upgrading - I actually took the rear hub to the new wheelset!! The line comp 30 was a great wheelset and took a lot of abuse. It still holds a tubeless seal even with all the dents and scrapes I put on them. For an X-cal they're a bit heavy but definitely bulletproof. Unless you huck to flat huge drops all the time, you'll run out of suspension before you damage the wheels. I relaced the rear hub from my Line Comp 30 onto a set of carbon Roval (specialized) hoops and they've been rock solid. If you use the recommended weight oil in the hub you'll have to change it once a year or so but it's not a hard task. Cheers

yes, it will.

The stock 30mm ones that came on my Remedy didn't last long - but I'm also rough on my equipment. I rode the rear out on a flat multiple times and even managed to get a pretty good dent in the front even with 160mm travel. But, even though the rim edge bent, it still held a tubeless tire with no leaks and didn't go out of round due to the thick profile. The wider the rim generally the easier it is to make them oblong on a hard impact so just be wary of that. I've had a few Stan's rims do that since they have a thin profile. For the front wheel, I'd say it's a good deal. They hubs have been great but a bit heavy.

@@adventurearkansas9926 Have you tested out/compared it to WTB ST/Scrapers?

@@mellissanash7517 I have not rider either wheelset so cannot compare

Yes, I just did it to mine 2 days ago. Well worth the $30 investment, it feels more "crisp" and responds instantly. The only drawback that Ive noticed is a very subtle increase in wheel drag while coasting however it doesnt seem to affect the pedaling. I removed the grease and used a couple drops of dry lube instead of grease to keep the paws from getting gummed up and sticking. Also produces a nice noticably louder sound with dry lube vs grease 👌

​@@single-trackdiaries4071 @wheel drag... My LBS pushed this upgrade on me for my new Stache 7. I never got to experience the hub without the upgrade. I seem to have a considerable amount of wheel drag. Someone else saw my wheel barely spin and come to a stop on my car rack and commented on it thinking the brake was rubbing. I took the bike back in and they said it was the rotor dragging and they corrected it, however it still spins with significant resistance relative to the other trek bikes on their showroom floor. Is this something I should pursue with the shop to get it corrected? I really didn't want the upgrade in the first place. Seriously how much is that slight engagement increase benefiting when riding sluggish 3" tires anyway?

@@TheClassicGamefan honestly its a matter of how much you see yourself wanting the quick engagement vs wanting less wheel drag. The upgrade is good for a responsive pedal for things like climbing, but if you ride more flat ground or downhill it may be better to have the hub converted back to 54t. I think this is just the trade off we all face in terms of this hub upgrade. The wheel drag comes from the added resistance, so the stock hub has 3 pawls vs the upgrade that has the 6 pawls. The extra pawls can always be removed for less resistance at the cost of having more "play" in your pedal before the hub engages. Id say have them removed but keep them to see which you prefer after spending time riding both set ups.

@@single-trackdiaries4071 Thanks a lot for the reply. You summarized what I've been discovering... yes I think I ride a good bit of flat and around town so the resistance seems noticeable. (I ride through town to get to 'n from the local trails) I think I will go back to 54T for the time being. Also going to 2.8" from 3" tires which should also reduce the bike's sluggishness around town.

@@TheClassicGamefan For sure, definetly not a bad idea to try the 2.8 tires first to see if that improves it before you convert back. Also, you could try a different lubrication in the hub, if they packed it with a thick grease vs lubricating oil and the amount used may be something to look into because that can also affect how well the hub rolls so maybe try running a lighter grease or a non-wax type chain lubrication to produce as little friction as possible without having to use sticky greases. I also thought it was my brakes rubbing at first but after thoroughly checking and then rechecking my brakes I have no doubt in my mind that the hub is causing the resistance. After a little research, it seems that the wheel drag is pretty common and there are a few things to try first before converting back or ultimately getting a higher spec hub.

The driver in the video is an XD. Not sure if Shimano has the same internals.

Mine does this. All the way left or right then push and it will move something inside the headset just a tad. Doesn't affect any of the bearing adjustment so I haven't bothered with trying to find a fix for it.

Thanks for watching Josh. Others have told me, and I've tried it out to confirm, you can actually do this mod without a chain whip! Just pull the cassette still attached to the freehub right off the hub. I still prefer taking the cassette off but in a pinch it will work. Happy wrenching!

Ideally, yes. You should use a lighter grease such as phil wood honey or DT swiss inner hub grease as opposed to regular thick green bearing grease. Hub internals benefit from less friction but also require maintenance more frequently than other sealed hub bearings. You will notice a difference in sound from what weight grease you put in. Do not put in thicker greases like automotive wheel bearing grease as they are too sticky and can cause the pawls not to return, making the freehub not engage properly.

@@adventurearkansas9926 Thank you!

Yes they are stickers. A vast majority of wheelsets will use stickers for graphics. The only wheelset I've owned that had painted graphics was a set of H+SON Archetypes on a track bike a long time ago.

Glad you liked the video!

No, the Roscoe 8 uses Formula branded hubs, not the Trek branded ones on the Remedy. There might be a similar hack but this particular one will not work.

I talked to the Trek store about my 2019 Roscoe 8. Pretty much your only option is a Hope Pro 4 rear hub.