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And this is why there is a timer in the reset circuit, waiting for all these “issues” to stabilize before the CPU can start running code.

The poor C64 is mad at you for painting it blue.

One common issue is the switch. I listened further and you did check it. Though, to be honest, you'd do better to use the ohmmeter setting, not the continuity test setting.

So is every owner-aficionado of a retro computer.

It seems like a fireplace with a crackling fire behind you would have complemented the tone of this video well.

Hi, did you ever check for noise or ripple level prior to installing the capacitor. In your first video on the power supply, you measured the DC with your multimeter but not the amount of ripple or noise. This capacitor will have reduced ripple and fixed the issue. Always check for ripple on DC supplies. Just measuring DC with a multimeter isn't enough. You could set your meter to AC and measure the ripple if you didn't have a scope.

Hi, when you check a power supply, you should also check for ripple on the DC level. You are not likely to notice a ripple when you measure your DC voltage. Check it with a scope, or put your meter into AC mode and see if you measure any ripple on the DC output. Noisy power rails or high levels of ripple can cause all sorts of faults on digital circuits like odd glitches, random resets etc etc. Don't assume because you read the correct DC level that there is no nasty ripple there also. Especially when you have random results at power up.

That Blue C64 looks sweet! Nice work, Noel!

In my area we call it a Figure 8 connecter.

@NoelSpareParts Mine is a 110V since I'm in Canada. The exact model is PSU C64 B/US. It doesn't have a capacitor (the space is empty like yours was), and the wires beside are soldered directly into the board while yours has a connector. Also, I'm noticing that mine is a bit different where both sides are fixed, so there the board is *not* bent because of a female connector since both sides are held like you have on the other wire coming out.

Hello. The blue background(paint) on the keyboard reminds me of the blue (Big Blue) IBM 360!

I am thinking of the January 19, 2038 bug coming up. Hopefully, like the Y2K Bug, it will be fixed. A timing thing in the clock for 32-bit systems.

I put heat sinks on the precious C64 chips. I don't know if that helps or not, but I like to think it does.

Thanks for the Video 👍👏👍👏

I have a pretty old model Electroware PSU that sometimes just doesn't seem to provide enough current. The interesting detail is that mine happens to be a dual output version that can provide power to a C64 and a 1541-MKII drive. Also it doesn't have a capacitor soldered into the through-holes. Those points are used to provide power to the 1541-MKII output. www.cogitarecomputing.com/electroware/20240310_145646.jpg

I have a zx spectrum and c64 power supply Noel and both have that cap inside.

Interesting chit/chat video shows that we should also look at the quality of replacement powersupply, maybe somebody should build a powersupply stresstester because I thought using a C64 as testload might not be great for our old computers

I have an Elecroware C64-PSU, EU-version with the capacitor. It also has a figure-8 plug without gnd. I also have a crap aftermaket one with a fancy LED-logo. It doesn't have the required 5.2V. Just 5.0V straight. With the voltage drop in the cable the C64 has too low voltage to operate reliable.

I’m loving the more chatty, spontaneous style of the second channel Noel. To my surprise I even like it more than the more highly produced first channel. I just binge watched all 495 videos on the power supply back to back. Fantastic. More please.

So this feels like one of those “tv cross over events” where the same story appears on the next show (ie The Retro Channel) Can we title it “CSI: PSU”?

But your connector (at 3:40) could swap live and neutral. I do think they make a similar one where one side is square and one is rounded so that might be a better replacement.

I have the same power supply and I have a capacitor in it.

They're all IEC C-something terminals. The number, don't know don't care, keep looking them up every time i need to.

35V 470uF in both of my US spec power supplies. One is about 2 years old, the other about 1 year.

This has a chart of those IEC plug types: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/IEC_60320

3:16 is it me or the thickness of the pcb is too thin? even more taking into account it has heavy bulky components like those black cubic transformers/converters on top.

I call it the “electric shaver” plug. 😂 It’s also similar to the cheater cords that used to be found on the back of old CRT TVs.

I have the higher end Electroware “pro” model. My sense is these are well made, good performing power supplies, and one of few options if you want a quality switched power supply. The new base models seem to use a proper sized AC input connector; and my pro is actually hardwired. Stay away from the Keelog, as mine puts out too much voltage and I believe it killed my SID. Ray is legendary, and I’m sure his PSU is also great if you want an old school design.

The reason the C64 takes about a second to boot to BASIC, is because of the RAM test routine in the Kernal. Some third party Kernals omit that or use a simpler RAM test routine and those boot almost instantly. The 555 reset circuit takes about 60 nanoseconds from power up, that's not the culprit. 🙂

My PSU was bought in 2020, and came with the capacitor. I took a photo when I bought it, but can't figure the values without openning it again due to the angle.

It is a C7 power connector (what you want to install instead).

Iec connectors chart at i.ytimg.com/vi/C0aLMOodVsg/maxresdefault.jpg

I enjoyed this fault finding investigation. It reminds me of your 'lets find a replacment BJT transistor' that I really enjoyed. I like the find the problem or find the solution videos, especially when you're pushing yourself to learn something new

I can't believe I'm watching the 3rd video about that bloody power supply and still enjoying it! ;-D

Nice!

The "Mickey Mouse" cable is commonly called a C5 Clover Leaf cable. The small cable you had, is known (or at least in the UK) as a "Figure 8" power lead. The square connector you found in your drawer we call a "kettle lead", or more technically a C13 power lead.

I was already opening up my power supply when you asked for this; I have the pro version of this power supply, which has a higher capacity and the for you unpopulated connector is populated for me and serves a 12 and 5 V connector for a 1541-II or 1581 floppy drive. There is no capacitor. I do not have access to an oscilloscope so unfortunately, I cannot tell you if I have “the problem“ or not. Certainly I do not have problems with my 64’s. Thank you for the video, looking forward to the next one. Edit: year of purchase is “early covid” ;) feb 2020 iirc. Connector is the C7, the smaller figure 8 one, and I do not seem to have PCB bowing.

Can the Micky Mouse connector be flipped over so the ground pin is away from the PCB? Would that give you more space on the PCB side?

Electroware PSU owner here ... capacitor is present. My model I purchased in year 2021. I am in the US.

Be careful with a non-polarised mains connector. The switch in this PSU should be switching the live (brown) feed. Using the IEC C7 (figure of 8) connector, a switch should isolate both conductors, but there are only two wires going to the switch not four. This could result in the neutral (blue) being isolated and the PSU internals always being at mains potential. In an all plastic case like that PSU has it probably doesn't matter but it's always best practice to ensure at least the live wire is the one connected to the switch.

People don't make enough fun of Meanwell for their very silly name. Granted, it is kinda hard to do so because their stuff seldom breaks. If it did break more often we'd have opportunity to say that they "meant well".

Funny! I watched your first two episodes experimenting with the PS, then I saw the episode on the TRC channel and he mentioned your episodes, now I see you again mentioning his results and comments. Obviously you guys watch a lot of “competitors” channels but sort of collaborate to find solutions! I’m a musician and we all watch other bands, compare techniques… kind of a similar situation! Hope this fixed your PS problem!

The one shown on TheRetroChannel has the two pin type of connector you are considering using (Figure 8 connector).

The 2 pin 'figure 8' on the cable is an IEC-320-C7, the corresponding 'socket' for the PSU would be an IEC-320-C8. The 'mickey mouse' / 'clover leaf' is IEC-320-C5 (the lead end) IEC-320-C6 (on the PSU)

THROW THE DAMN POWER SUPPLY AWAY!!!

Wikipedia has a list of all of the standard mains connectors: en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/IEC_60320

Thanks for the link to Ray's site. I've heard of him on other sites but had not seen his resource. Hopefully that will help jumpstart me into fixing a 128 I have sitting on my bench.

Thanks for sharing the power supply saga. I really enjoyed it and seeing you work through it has been instructional for me.

The "Mickey Mouse" is called a clover-leaf plug

Rules in Europe are stricter, so this design will never go through the European certification