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Glad it helped!!

Haha!!!! Thanks. It really is a beautiful place. I am lucky ❤️

Ivan spends time in negative reinforcement quadrant and he will use the tool that works for that dog. Often times it will be a prong collar. It is the most efficient and least amount of physical pressure (the way we do it) to use negative reinforcement to teach dogs commands/cues/etc. A Martingale collar isn’t as sensitive of a tool, nor is a front-pull harness (not to mention it is not very directional), and a flat collar just is not safe on the dogs neck because it can create an strong oppositional pull on the neck/trachea and dogs usually could care less and pull extremely hard- as you see or have experienced, I’m certain. I hope this helps! Also, please please note I don’t stay on a prong collar forever. I use it as negative reinforcement and operant conditioning to encourage or teach behaviors (via classical conditioning) and get off of a prong collar, usually within a week to three. It works well because it is a very effective directional pressure.

glad it helped! thanks for commenting :)

I appreciate you watching and commenting. I do disagree that this is "learned helplessness". As a dog trainer that actively trains and takes continuing education, I have witnessed "learned helplessness" plenty of times and this isn't it. This dog is not shut down in anyway shape or form. This dog had about 15 minutes total of trying to "get her way" with me, because she has her whole life until this point. I just chose to let her know that, the way to get out of the crate is to get in the crate, so to speak. I intentionally made this video to help people, and it has. I referr people to it all the time. It literally took 15 minutes and then Dory had no issues with the crate (if you watch the videos from the next day linked above you will see that). Again, I appreciate you watching and commenting. :)

Good advice! Thanks for watching and commenting 🐾

@@leadoffleashk9training thank you so much! And thank YOU for helping dogs and their owners to live a calmer, happier, more harmonious life! Keep up the great work! ❤️💕

Just adding to the celebration excitement of doing well in the game and also praising him. Want him to feel good. When we (humans) do something well, people will clap. So same thing. Hope this helps in understanding

If your dog is the one that initiates the fight with another dog that takes their ball, then you need to have better control over your dog. If this is the case, and your dog is ball obsessed, you can take that ball obsession and make it into a way to have great authority over your dog in a high drive state of mind. (If you watch my videos or understand TWC concepts that notion will make sense to you.) If it is the OTHER dog that is attacking your dog, then you need to be able to control those other dogs (which is usually not the case because if you’re at a dog park or something, you don’t know them). If you don’t know them, you shouldn’t be playing ball around them if you are worried about your dog being attacked. I can take dogs that would initially attack another dog for landing right at the ball at the exact same time with another high drive ball crazed dog and teach dogs to yield to another dog…. Whether I help them by calling their name, or they just actually learn to yield. So in a board and train program, if I get a dog that is attacking other dogs around resource guarding balls etc , we work on that through their obsession for the ball. It might seem counterintuitive, but that’s what I do. TWC for the win!

I never lock out my Ecollar numbers. I want to be able to roll up or roll down in a half of a second based on the situation at hand. Imagine if you were in a library - I could whisper to you and you would hear me just fine. Now imagine we are in a Las Vegas nightclub and the music is booming. I could not whisper. I would have to grab your arm, shake it and yell in your ear to get you to hear me. Most people have no idea at every second where their dog is mentally (ie whether at the library in their mind or at the Vegas nightclub or somewhere in between.) Many people don’t even notice the difference between when their dog is sniffing grass vs just walking on the pavement….. on the grass they are way more “distracted”, therefore you would need higher number. So I want to be able to roll up and down based on what my dogs mind is doing in the exact moment when I’m asking it to do something for me. I hope this makes sense and helps.

The order is to say “come” first. If they come, then they don’t get tone or stim. If they don’t come right away, then I press and hold the tone button which will eventually roll into stimulation if I keep my finger on the button. But if if they return right when they start hearing the tone in their ear, I will take my finger off of the button before it rolls to stim. (So they don’t to even receive the stimulation.) I have classically conditioned them to the word “come” then tone, then stim so in an operant conditioning fashion, they can avoid the stimulation by listening to one of the first things that happens (whether it’s the come or the tone) and they avoid this stimulation. I hope this makes sense. It’s all about classically conditioning well and then using negative reinforcement of operate conditioning

@@leadoffleashk9training yes, ty!

Does she know what “come “means? If she does, have a stimulation level on the dial that will come in in 1.2 seconds after the tone button. (Of course you’re still gonna say “come” and def have a long line to help her decide which way to go, ie to you.) Do not do this without having a long line on her. If she is very sensitive dog be at a lower number then if she’s a bull in a China shop, who won’t care.

You MUST have a directional leash on her. Don’t just push the button and rely on you saying “come”. it’s up to you to have her escape the pressure of the Ecollar as best you can which is saying come as well as using the long line. Don’t stand there. She needs directional help. If this doesn’t make sense then higher a trainer. If she’s super sensitive, then hire a trainer. I hope this helps!

@@leadoffleashk9training okay,!

@@leadoffleashk9training I will have to remember this when I bring her to a field tomorrow morning. I did a few reps earlier with a long line and I found moving backwards after I tap tone, cal her name, helps a lot. I praise a lot too when she comes back as well. We’re only day 3.

I am using concepts from his video, but it is no substitute for his video. In the video he sells, he explains the process very well and the video is dedicated to teaching you (not just showing you an example of using concepts in a video - like I am in this video). To be clear, this is not an instructional video for watchers to learn Possession Games. I HIGHLY recommend getting his video if you are at all interested… academy.trainingwithoutconflict.com/the-possession-games

You can look at some of my how to videos to help you. I have a playlist of Ecollar use. If you have a nervous dog or an aggressive dog - not saying you have either- but if you do, I would hire a good trainer to help. You also need to use a directional leash to help the dog understand how to “turn off” the pressure of collar cause you are actually using the leash to show him/her

Hold the T button down and at 1.2 seconds (if you hold it) it turns to stimulation

Thanks for watching

Great to hear! Tanika for sharing. Keep up the awesome work - your pup will thank you for it !❤️🐾

Thanks for watching and commenting!!! I agree w you ❤️🐾

Thanks so much! 😊

glad to help!!

20 to 30 feet? I have a variety of them. Long lines are good to have for different reasons, mostly in the progression to get a dog off leash.

I work with plenty of bully, breeds including bulldogs, Frenchies, American Staffordshire terriers, Rez dogs- which are a mix of a pitbull and other breeds, etc. Please note, using negative reinforcement as part of operant conditioning really works well because the dog learns to first escape the aversive and then, with proper classically conditioned markers/cues/signals/whatever you wanna call them, the dog then learns to avoid the aversive. And all animals, including us, live in a state of avoidance of aversive things. The other part of what I do in training is build confidence in a dog. This is more important than anything else. So the combination of the two - building confidence through play, off leash walks, social interactions, (ie whatever reinforces that particular dogs confidence) combined with training using negative reinforcement - whether it’s prong collar or Ecollar, it’s a win-win situation. The dog then does not need the tool, but for the rare occurrence. Finally, I work with the dog in front of me. There are plenty of “working dogs“ that are insecure, and there are plenty of bully breeds that don’t really want to please the human.So, while that I agree with some of what you say, it’s not a one size fits all for me. I use the above description of my training style for all dogs. I hope this helps you to understand how and why I do things.

Wow, all very interesting. If I were you, I would play around with different ideas whether it’s with tone followed by the stimulation for your recall, or just stimulation if you’re trying to stop something in that moment. And don’t be too low. Sometimes two or three WELL-timed stims when she’s doing something she shouldn’t be doing (ie: cobbing an unfamiliar dog) will fix that behavior forever. Remember when you’re practicing recall, you are working in the negative reinforcement quadrant and if you are stopping a behavior, you are in the positive punishment quadrant of operant conditioning. One last thought, the vibration is static and it’s sometimes not annoying enough for a dog to want to respond to it, depending on what they’re doing and how heightened they are. So personally, I like to use stimulation when I’m trying to stop a behavior or using it as negative reinforcement, because I can go up higher if I need to - or lower. When only using vibration - the dog at some point will often blow you off and the dog may get habituated to doing that (and at that point you have to go to stim because you have no other choice as vibration doesn’t work 100% anymore). I actually only use vibration with a deaf dog. Not saying you are doing it wrong w your dog, just food for thought. Thanks for watching and commenting! Finally - with the remote control car, that would be a good time to practice a recall, using tone with stim or just straight stim. And when I say tone with stimulation, it’s with the ET 300 when you change the “T” button to that function where after 1.2 seconds of tone it rolls into stimulation when your finger is depressing the button.)

Go through this playlist and see what might help you, with or without Ecollar. It’s can be very time-consuming, depending how bad SA is. So be patient. th-cam.com/play/PLJW_ZGMoNMMZ8xMk7g7frDFetp11tGGg-.html&si=7WHsksATYeY1yb5r

Two things- 1) is whatever he is distracted by (a squirrel?) more fun than you? If that is the case, you need to make yourself more fun for him. Practice recall in a way that he LOVES to come back to you. Because you’re going to throw a stick, or a toy, or a ball, or play tug, etc. 2) is he not recalling to you because he’s chasing something with reactivity? (Reactivity in my mind meaning he is going after something with aggression? Or running away in fear?) in either case not able to listen to your recall and follow through. If that is the case, you need to work on his state of mind and changing his perception around that thing and feel like he doesn’t need to be doing that. you need to boost his confidence. I think it’s probably the first thing I listed. Which again, you need to be more fun. And if he’s recalling to you 95% of the time and blowing you off that 1 time out of 10, then you should set up a training session with a TWC trainer to talk about the idea of stopping that once-every-now-and-then-blowoff of you. I do offer virtual sessions and you can find out more about that on my website. (Once on my website, go to the programs and prices page, then scroll to the bottom to read more about it.) Thanks for commenting and watching!

The one thing you’re missing is the marker word (or signal or cue, whatever you wanna call it) that tells him he did it right and that he’s released to go back into play. I use the word “yes“. Ivan uses the word “OK“. Otherwise the sequence is correct. And those signals/cues/markers let the dog know what’s coming next. When you do say your cue for release from the command and allowed to go back into play, make sure you pause for a moment… Say your release cue, THEN move your hand to get the toy, don’t let your hand be moving to the toy as you’re saying you’re release cue, or that becomes the cue - not the word. I hope that makes sense. (So the exact moment when he opens his mouth is what you are marking with your “yes!” Which means he can go back in to play)

@@leadoffleashk9training Thanks! Yes makes sense very clear. What size prong collar do you recommend for dogs under 15lbs? The 2.25mm or the 1.5mm?

@@garrattstone1142 I never use a micro. The smallest I go to is 2.25 and if that doesn’t work, I don’t think the dog needs one. You should be able to do the same thing with a slip lead, a fur saver/choke style collar, or martingale.

@@leadoffleashk9training Thanks so much for the reply! One more question - can you teach this during chase and catch or better to do it during possession games?

@@garrattstone1142 whatever the dog likes best is what you should go for. So if they’re really fired up for chase n catch, then teach it there. Whatever it is that gets them motivated to want to try again and motivated to not mind the lesson. So the aversive thing happens, then you want to rebuild them, help them recover, make them feel good again before doing it again. Btw, this is TWC! I highly recommend checking it out if you haven’t.

Just have the prong quite loose and I have found no issue. In fact, Ivan will mention the ridiculousness of how most trainers recommend having a “high and tight prong and that it is like having a gun to your head.” I completely agree and that “high and tight” is totally unnecessary. I advise my clients that they MUST pay and make sure that if the dog gets to the end of the leash that the handler better either A) move with the dog or B) say something prior to them hitting the end. ( which is the case with any leash or any pressure ).

@@leadoffleashk9training taughtness with any collar that has prongs (including an e-collar) is to prevent collar movement which can cause chafing.

⁠@@cam_cecilthat is not my experience. I have never had any chaffing with any collar I use. Mainly because I pay attention.

Great!!! I hope all is going well. TWC is the best way to train😊 -imho

⁠@@leadoffleashk9trainingYes it’s brilliant. Today we were working on a Malinois pup, getting him addicted to the game 😆, then did some article indication with an older malinois. It’s great I’m having lots of fun, super effective way to train. ❤

I have not had inconsistencies with my ecollars, but I have w the bark collar 😞

I've had this problem as well. It means that the prongs aren't making a good enough connection to actually create the current needed to cause the shock. It's especially hard to make that connection on long haired dogs. I have a German Shepherd, and I used to find I could make the connection quite consistently, but it's become harder over the last year or two. I think maybe his coat has changed some as he's aged. Because of this, I ended up buying the pager only version of this collar since it does not need to form a direct connection through the two prongs. I haven't gotten a chance to really try it yet but I'm hoping it'll work really well for him, especially since he can be very sensitive to the current - when it actually works, that is.

You're welcome!☺️

Thank you so much for sharing your story! It really is nice for me to hear it. 😊🐾❤️ Keep up the great work!

Thank you for watching and commenting!

Correct. In my experience the Ecollar will make a dog “ pop up” - think of a little Ecollar tap on you; the instant reaction / reflex is to move not necessarily stay put. Whereas the leash is a directional pressure ( Ecollar is not so much except as described above). So I personally would never use an Ecollar to “teach” down. Also, even when the dog is well-versed in the down command and they decide to blow me off, I will still just reach to their flat collar and give them that downward pressure that they learned and are familiar with from the teaching process. I hope that makes sense. By the way, keep in mind other people dothings differently, that’s just the way I do it.

When I have a clients dog that is wearing evollar, I use leash pressure paired with evollar pressure to tesch down stay. It works well. I feel if I just used flat collar dogs would just blow me off as it dosent bother them so much.

Thanks for watching!! 🤩🐾