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yes, and now more often I'm using OrcaSlicer

Then bad spool it is I guess

Do you use the stock preset settings? I feel like my print should be coming out better.

@thebasicCreator Could be. I'd definitely open a support ticket. Although BL support gets a bad rap, they've always replaced filament if I've had a bad spool...but it can take a while to go back and forth with support, which sucks.

@@amuscarello I can't remember off hand. I know I changed some settings but not sure which. When I get back to the warehouse I'll reply back and let you know my settings. I'm not sure if the wife and I are taking off tomorrow for Labor Day or not. If so then I'll message Tuesday, if not then I'll message tomorrow.

@@OhImKiCkiN My filament dryers don't go to 65c even though I let them dry for 12 hours still wasn't hot enough according to tech support

nope, everyone having same issue

@@thebasicCreator no ... sorry

@@DavidB_AudioTech well, the vids out there say so, so not sure what else to tell ya

I have never had it with z offsets off but each filament you buy, different brands and such have sometimes different flow dynamics that could help fixing issues that you can manually adjust flow rates and dynamics in calibration tab of Bambu slicer. Then it can be saved as a preset for that filament so it will be set every time going forward that You use that type. I had some Bambu tough look like it was also too close and was tearing at time, but it went away when I put this stuff in a dryer for a while. Then it worked great. If it's still having issues you can also do a factory reset of the machine for a clean slate to re-calibrate correctly as well.

@@thebasicCreator My p1s works great. I think my A1 is a lemon. I’ve been printing for 8 years btw. 🤦‍♂️

ps. preheat, then add some Dawn dish soap to a scrubber sponge. Go over the bed in small, concentric circles. Wipe it down with paper towel. Best Ultrabase tip ever.

if you really want it to stick on this printer, use masking tape

in all other aspects, the printer is great

as I said, it does not work. Maybe I have a defective unit and this function does not work like it is supposed to. Maybe it was not aligned properly in manufacturing who knows. It just not work. I am just clearly showing the issue with this unit that I have and if anyone else is having the same issue they can at least clear it and continue their print. Switching colors automatically with the AMS still works fine too. So far there has been a few issues here and there, and most of these printers have tweaking or fixing it seems. Prusa just works. No messing around, no trying to figure out why something is not working, they just work. Plus never said it ruins the trip, in fact I explain how to clean it out so it's ready to go again. If you have the solution to the issue then post it.

@@thebasicCreator next time you're about to run out of filament, and you have the ams loaded with another color that is the same, cut the end of the roll that is connected to the spool so the bend doesn't get jammed into the extruder, sounds like that's really what your issue is, as well as not having air print detection on...

@@MegaCasey09 did that, the printer doesn't like me..lol

the whole thing was print in place as you see it from a file on line. pretty sure it was maker world, type in A1 cover and there is a ton of cool covers people have made you can print

@@thebasicCreator thanks!

it kind of boils down to what your going to print though as well. If your looking to print mini's then your going to want what's best for that, probably resin too. For all round just pick up and print what ever files the A1 mini just works right away, no paper leveling, no messing around for every print and vibration compensation system can be shut off as well if it effects your print. Over all much less farting around to get the results you want.

just need sticky tack reusable adhesive

yes I guess quality control these days just kind of piss me off still. Only todays world where %50 functional is acceptable

@@thebasicCreator and I 100% agree with you. Just went on slightly too long, taking away from the rest of the video.

@@whothef4900 sorry guys.

yeah that sucks, thats the same for me when I want to buy Prusa from over there.

me too

that's awesome, I hope mine will work right the next time too

there is no LAN connection on the printer, and in the slicer program, if any other printer is selected it gives the option to export the g code, but when you select the mini, that option is gone

@@thebasicCreator you should still be able to use the SD card. Like in this video. I can use the SD card on my mini. Maybe I’m not understanding something, but it should work. th-cam.com/video/i11uJOJcct8/w-d-xo.htmlsi=vXrIGYHo37M6R8O3

it took me three weeks to get a replacement hot end in.

because this is the A1 mini. I didn't buy the A1 and before I could they recalled them

I've also learned in the past couple of decades in selling electronics that over the years quality control and over all quality of products has diminished and are pumped out so fast and don't last

like the A1...just as example they had to recall

for the cost, it is a great printer. For being your first printer you can't go wrong. You can buy it without the AMS as well if you just want a printer and are doing only single color prints, but it is discounted with the AMS if bought together. You could wait a bit for the re-release of the A1 too that has a bigger bed but bigger price not by much though. Same as the Prusa mk3s+ I have, or the mk4. They are a little more robust and proven workhorses but big prices too. If you were comparing to a similar cost like an ender v2 pro or something this little guy is way better. If you do buy I recommend to get an extra hot end tip, harden steel as well and a PEI high temp flex sheet.

I just did a quick short vid on it and will upload it soon.

@@thebasicCreator awesome, thanks for the details mate. will watch that vid. for sure

Did you ever figure out what was the issue?

the issue wasn't that the blob started, the issue was cleaning it up with a fragile hot end. I obviously got distracted and wasn't there to insure it started fine yes, but try too clean out the goo on a bambu not cool.

If I would get a quarter every time a user error is blamed on the hardware I wouldn't have to work anymore... Prusa cost almost 2x as much and you have answered your own question... "You get what you've paid for"

@@photo_n_art if you paid attention to the bambugoo issue, wasn't the hardware that caused the issue, and the issue was how fragile the wires are in a cheaper printer when a mistake like this happens.

awesome. I probably could have done that too

maybe a defective machine then because it has happen two or three times now and now I just don't chance it. If I know I'm getting close the the end before it goes all into the tube I just stop it and change it out myself while it can still back it out

Agreed, I've had no issues.

it is suppose to do that but that's the issue, it does not work. It just jams

So this isn't a real issue if your using common sense?

it does but only after it had run past the extruder and it can not remove what is still in there and because it wasn't cut by the auto cuter thing it just jams when you try to feed another spool in.

this sounds like user error, not printer error. I have literally bullied my a1 mini and hot swapped filaments while it was running and it continued without a hickup Also, you do know you can pause a print and do a procedure of filament swap mid print?? It will heat up the extruder, purge left over and then you load up new one. Pointless video

​@thebasicCreator you might want to try resetting your printer profile sounds like the gcode might have gotten messed up because it definitely should not jam when you load new filament

@@its_just_that_simple that's a good idea thanks

@@thebasicCreator for sure, just ignore these disrespectful people a lot of them are just chronically online losers who provide 0 useful info for your issues.

it's just the default print file for 0.16mm optimal at 4mm nozzle for Creality printer CR10S4 on Prusa slicer and the bed size se to 390/390 to be safe from the edges. I never messed with any other settings. So if you download Prusa slicer, go add printer, add the CR10S4 and just make sure the size of the bed is correct and your done. I just did a time laps vid and the arms for the cell phone holder I made were actually made on this printer because they were long and I printed them in PETG too, turned out great.

replaced wiring, and connections, took out the mechanical housing for the communication wire and using creality cr10 s4 settings

I did say I like them both. I have not got to print too much yet on the Bambu to give a real tried tested and true for reliability like the Prusa, and I'm going to try out Orca Slicer as well. If Prusa sent me an XL it would be like winning the Lottery though, no waste, 16 zone heated bed and not a bed slinger either! and still the same reliability as the MK3s+ Like I said for now, I like both. We will see how things pan out after more printing can be conducted.

the A1 (not mini) I wish I would have seen though first, I may have bout it for the little extra

i try it out thanks. So far the software isn't bad

thanks, missed that

that's awesome. thanks

it's starting to look as though there is no standard to this printer, that everyone seems to have different issues or similar but can't be resolved in the same ways. I know I replaced the connection boards for the communication cable tot eh hot end as well, not sure if that was the ticket but one of the parts they sent me.

the stops were random and for no reason The screen would be unresponsive and all I could do was shut it off and on to reset it again. Most times with any PLA I print the fan does not have enough to effect them but I would shut it off if doing PET-G.