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Thank You, I appreciate that!!

I agree, it’s fascinating that a machine can do this from a solid chunk of material.

it's stainless steel.

Thanks for asking, I fixed the title.

The turbo is a GTR55-114mm from Forced Inductions. It is capable of 2000+ horsepower depending on the engine. shop.forcedinductions.com/ Thanks for watching!!

@@GaryPutnamRacingWeldingFabthanks for all details giving I appreciate you

Thanks for stopping by my channel, I appreciate you as well.

the combo will be a 427" Dart block LS and Forced inductions 114mm turbo. Thanks for watching!!

There really shouldn't be much forgiveness in the location. Keeping them in the proper location and seated correctly is pretty important. You don't want any air leaking by, and you for sure don't want any fuel leaks from injectors not seated properly.

Thank You for the name of that, I knew I wasn't saying it correctly LOL... 👍

You make a really good point, it’s amazing to see that heat get transferred over and be hot enough to cook!! I think the hottest I saw was 374 ish. I love bacon and welding, I had fun doing this and being able to eat the hot bacon right off the plate was awesome!!! Thanks for the comment and thanks for watching. 👍

Bacon is awesome!!! I think the risk is pretty minimal 😎

It's a Bradford Pear and they are not very strong or robust trees. There was 2 gusts of wind, the first gust pushed down on the top of the tree and kind of opened up the top of the tree at separate branches. The second gust came right after the first one and when the top of the tree was opened up, the second gust pushed down on the top again and made the tree split.

This method works just fine, I have zero arc wandering doing it like this.

There's no trash going in the Tungsten. Tungsten is super hard, it's much harder than the piece of mild steel tubing stopping that disc.

@ whatever you say bud I’ve only been welding for about 23 years

@@GaryPutnamRacingWeldingFabno he’s right, also grind towards the point, so the arc doesn’t wander

This method works just fine, I have zero arc wandering doing it like this.

Oh, and which type of abrasive are you running in your disc? Aluminum oxide, zirconia, or ceramic? Tungsten is some really tough stuff and it sure likes to eat up the abrasive

The disc is 100 grit, it is very rough on tungsten when its new but as it gets worn in from grinding stuff it becomes smoother and less rough on the tungsten. By the books, the tungsten should be ground like you mentioned in a production environment, but for the garage welding, this works just fine. I bought a bunch of discs a few years ago and don't remember exactly what they are but I think they are aluminum oxide

For all the folks that claim grinding radially shouldn’t be done, it seems to me that the radial grinding maybe causes some very minor issues. But the bigger problem is continuing to use your tungsten when it gets contaminated via dipping, etc. So I’m thinking just keeping the tungsten clean and with the proper shape is MUCH more important than whether we use radial vs longitudinal grinding

This intake is from Shaun's Custom Alloy. I ordered it from one of his dealers , Ace Racing Engines. It isn't on the engine yet, still waiting for engine parts to show up so it can get put together, it is a super nice manifold!!! This is where I ordered it from ace-engines.com/product/shauns-custom-alloy-billet-ls-intake-manifolds/

yes the filler I was using is 1/16" 4043. Welding holes shut like that is kinda fun, I build it up on top and blend it down with a scotch brite pad and give it the same shape as the top of the runner. I also go in on the bottom side with the torch and fill in the low spots and blend it down also. The inside is tricky with the short space but with this manifold I was able to use a short back cap and get the torch in far enough to reach the weld area. If I was making a plug or flat stock I would use 6061 material. Thanks for the comment and thanks for watching!!!

Good ear, I think it was 120ish

Thanks for the sub, I'd have better equipment here to do this stuff but I don't have room for the stuff I want. I call it Redneck Milling!!... LOL Thanks for watching.

I'll check that out!!!

3/32 electrode, #4 cup, and tacked with 1/16 4043 filler.

The bungs are 6061 T6 and I’m using 4043 filler. Thanks for the comment and thanks for watching. I appreciate your time!!

I appreciate your reply and also appreciate it that you’re sharing some of the cool stuff you’re working on. Regarding welding aluminum, I was also curious if you have a favorite type of tungsten and grind angle you prefer (or do you ball the tungsten)?

I have experience welding various types of steel but aluminum is fairly new to me

Sometimes I get to work on boring stuff and sometimes I get to do cool stuff...LOL... I'm trying to figure out what stuff might be good to put here on youtube and not put up a bunch or garbage that nobody is interested in. About the tungsten, I use 2% ceriated and 2% Thoriated. Usually the ceriated on DC and Thoriated on the AC (aluminum) stuff but honestly, I've used both those on both types of material and they work fine. I would say my angle is 30-40 degrees taper, I use an Inverter machine and the tungsten doesn't need to be "balled", the old school transformer type machines use a balled tungsten on the aluminum. I hope this helps answer your questions, Thanks again for stopping by my channel!!!

Gary, thanks for the additional feedback. I ended up needing to butt weld some 1/4” 6061 tonight and I ended up using a 2% lanthanated tungsten because that’s what I had laying around. I used 4043 filler and did one of the butt welds with a V groove on both sides and the other one with no V grooves. I welded both sides of each V groove and seemed like the one with the V grooves welded a lot better. From what I’ve read, the frequency should be between 60 and 150hz so I chose 85 hz. And the balance should be around 25 to 30 so I chose 27. Not sure if those were good choices though. I just don’t have any experience with welding aluminum so it’s a bit of a learning curve.

This manifold had bungs for small nitrous nozzle’s and I drilled them out and welded the holes shut as this will now be used in a turbo boosted application and not nitrous. In this video I’m tack welding the new bungs for the fuel injectors, there is one injector per cylinder and this is going on a V8 small block for engine.

What size filler rod and tungsten did you use? I will be doing this on my bbc soon.

@@jacobwilmoth5140 I used 1/16 4043 filler to tack the bungs and 3/32 4043 to weld them. I used 3/32 tungsten. I got the bungs and rail from Ross Machine rossmachineracing.com/

​@@GaryPutnamRacingWeldingFab thank you.

I’m not going to scratch it, don’t worry. It's an incredible piece of work from a master.

@@tallica8145 thanks, they are very nice parts from a badass dude in Australia, Shaun’s Custom Alloy.

I had heard how nice Shaun's stuff is but had never seen anything in person. Holy shit it's very nice quality parts!!!

@@GaryPutnamRacingWeldingFab agreed. I got some plazmaman stuff for my 540, it's sharp.too. looks real similar

they have really nice stuff also!!!

Thanks for watching, I hated to let go of the BBC combo but the "outlaw" class stuff around here is getting super fast (4.0-4.20's) and I don 't wanna chase that stuff. This new Limited 275 class has a small set of rules and the biggest rule was no boosted big blocks so I had to make a decision on which way to go. Hopefully the Limited class runs in the 4.40-4.60 range and I think it'll be alot of fun. I'll try to keep current on progress videos as I get everything situated for the small block combo. Thanks again for watching!!

great question........ dumping the exhaust in front of the tire is a very common location for a build like this. The front end will be removeable and the lower portion of the nose in front of the tire is where the exhaust will be. There will be a portion of lower nose material cut out to accommodate the exhaust tube so when the front end is off the exhaust can stay on the car and make it a quick and easy procedure. Also, when stuff breaks it gets propelled out the exhaust, it doesn't just fall out and lay on the ground to get run over. Great question, Thanks for watching!!

Thanks for watching, If I do a lot of welding I'll put a long sleeve shirt on. This was a short weld so I didn't sleeve up!!

Thank You Sir!!! and Thanks for watching!!!

Thanks for the visit

More to come!!!

Glad you enjoyed it

I use the speed vise for tons of things and it also works great to clamp a block in for an arm rest/slide !!!

Thank You!!! 😎

Jokes aside, beautiful car man

Thanks!!

LOL... no,......... no parking ticket