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What lubricant do you use on the bottom of the shell plate and the indexing bearings?

Hello Adam. I didnt know about clean and lubing the drive hub. Well now it is so stuck on there I cannot get it off. Any ideas? I contacted hornady and they just told me. WHY DO YOU NEED TO GET IT OFF. What the heck. I emailed them and they gave me a number but nobody has contacted me with what to do. Thanks Jake

great video thank you

Hey Adam, I just wanted to thank you for sharing that video. I had my Hornaday lock and load for a few years now loaded several thousand rounds. I wasn’t aware that you should take that so plate off of that hub and lube it I did that like your video said it was dirty dry put it back together. It is run. Very smooth now. Thanks again for your time and video.

I think this is the only video on the subject I have seen on TH-cam. Had reload height variation several years ago when I started reloading. Did what you suggest but it did not fix my issue. Fixed it otherwise. However, several years later today, after not reloading for roughly 4 months, my Hornady press was getting hang-up going up and down roughly 1” from the bottom. I could not find anything wrong with the press. I remembered your video and tried to remove the hub. It was tough actually. Found a way and noticed how much crud and dried grease was around the hub not letting it turn properly and not letting it slide off properly either. Lessen learned, will clean and grease the hub once per year moving forward. Thank you for this in depth video 👍

this video just saved me a lot of time and headache, i was already dealing with..... I did process a few thousand rounds in the sizer already however, i was seeing deflection in the case plate, and did not know how ot solve it. I just put NLGI #2 Automotive Wheel bearing and chassis lube (xtra heavy duty) on the drive unit and in side the lower plate. My press was NOT marr'd up thankfully it was just in need of lube. and boy oh boy did it fix the slop.

What type of grease do you use?

This video is the best maintenance video I've seen on this press. Hornady should hire you for these videos. How did you measure the movement of the sub plate or determine it was worn? Is it quite noticeable? I haven't lubricated mine and I've ran at least 2000. Thank you for your time.

I know its been 7 years since you made this video so hopefully you still reply. I have the same reloaded and I'm new to reloading. How can I prevent surface rust from forming on the exposed bare metal? I live in Atlanta so humidity is a slight factor. I would greatly appreciate any help or direction you could give!!

What grease is used to lube the LNL?

my drive hub does not come out any suggestions? Good video so far.

Hey Adam. Having an issue with my Hornady LNL AP and upon doing a search I ran across your maintenance videos. And like everyone else, let me say THANK YOU for making and posting them!!! That said, I hope taking it apart and doing what you did solves my problem? Well this along with getting some parts, hopefully for free, from Hornady? As my press, even though I did everything the instructions said when I first got it. but I'd add due to unforeseen circumstances, mainly, a couple neck surgeries, the press hasn't really been used. And tonight when I went to verify things from when I had set it up to load some .45acp, it was stiff as hell to the point the pawls chipped because the index wheel felt like I was churning gum and the pawls were popping on the index wheel at the bottom. And I've done no adjustments to the pawls as they are as they left the factory. As Indexing the Press was hard to do and as I said, so hard it was like I was churning gum and popping on the pawls. As I said, It's hardly been used so it's not like any foreign material, brass shavings, powder, etc., has or could have gotten into it. And the indexing system should have been greased, I'd of thought anyhow, from Hornady. Again, it's rarely been used since I got it for above stated reasons. And it's in the house so it isn't like it was frozen. So I hope and pray I'll get any and all parts free from Hornady and replacing them and doing the maintenance and lubing per your videos, this will solve the problem/s? Anyhow, in regards to the primer system, you state you don't use, and, not to use too much if any lubricant, for obvious reason/s, ie, because you don't want it to enter the primers. Obvious point. But I did want to ask what about using the Hornady Dry Lube or a light film of that good ole Mobil 1 5W30 where the primer tray meets its mating surface on the sub plate? Again, thanks doe the videos... On a side note, even though it's been in the house and hardly used, and something else I'm hoping Hornady honors and replaces, is the pistol micrometer metering insert, the outer dial, even though it's chrome and was in the house and wiped down and again, hardly touched, the damn outer dial rusted! If I could or can and knew how, I'd post pictures!

Wow did that help make my press run many thanks 👍

Both videos, very well presented, and informative. My compliments also on speaking properly.

Thank you for taking the time to make a great video!

My shell plate has wobble/ play in it. I feel like it’s coming from the drive hub. Where I put the bolt in to tighten my shell plate to the sub plate. I can take my hand and wobble the shell plate back and forth more than I care for. Do I need a new drive hub? I’ve had the same issues you mentioned.

Very helpful video. Thank you Sir 👍

Thank you thank you thank you!!! I got one of these new but not in its box along with the LnL single stage. LOVE IT! But, about 1000 rounds in, and all calibers, my shell plate stopped turning tonight and I couldn’t figure out why! I sprayed some cable lube for motorcycles on the top and bottom of the shaft which worked long enough to finish the 100 rounds I was seating. Lubed the zirk fittings but never actually knew the correct procedures. Never knew about that lube groove, and you just saved me from galling and ruining that plate bearing surface. I have a Dillon case sizer/trimmer that has a vacuum attached to where the tiny brass filings go flying off the trim head. Cool set up, but... today while setting it all up for sizing the 223 for the first time, I’m sure I spilled some filings down into that top sub plate and shaft bearing area. So it’s coming apart tomorrow. I have all the tools and skills. It’s getting a thorough take down and cleaning white glove style with solvents and cleaner to remove any and all crud and old dirty grease! New fine bicycle grease going in. Next video is gonna be that one about everything there is to know about the powder measure. How on earth do we get that rascal to stop spilling powder! I’m a clean freak and it’s driving me crazy. I’m doing something wrong. Or, is it perhaps spilling from the loaded cases from jittering shell plates??? We shall soon find out now that I know how to service this fine piece of precision machinery! Thanks again for a very thorough instruction!

Thanks so much Adam. I fixed my seized up hub from your video. I had to remove it and sand the inside of shelf assembly, then sand the keyed hub a little and lubed with white lithium grease. I literally had to pound my keyed hub out of the shelf with a plastic tent stake HAMMER. All you guys who have a press like this, don't leave a tight shell plate attached and leave it sit for a long long time. The factory never greased that hub in the shelf. It's a cast part and mated with stainless steel hub. Lube , Lube, Lube. Very rough inside the casted shelf.

I’ve three of these presses and over 7 years have reloaded about 10,000 rounds a year I’ve never done any of this. How much do you reload? The only problem I’ve had is the plastic dome on top of the shell casing shuttle ram wears out surprisingly quickly, luckily my local Tacoma Screw Products has these random nylon cylinders I’ve been able to fashion into replacements.

I like to use dry lube like colloidal (alcohol and graphite) . The less grease I have on the shell plate refrains from any powder to gum up the works. But I do use the grease on the ram.

Great video. It’s too bad you didn’t continue making more of these types of videos. You present well and are clear spoken and articulate. I really enjoyed watching and learned from the video instead of like some of the videos out there that claim to be educational. You dove in and were very detailed. Too many videos about maintaining the LNL press are to take the shell plate off and put a dab of grease. Never mention of the other things you discussed. Thanks!

Did your powder hopper melt? It looks de-formed

Y

Just got the AP from my honey for Christmas. Probably gonna take the drive hub off to lube it while it's new and undamaged. BTW .. I couldn't help but notice your powder measure looks a little deformed!?! What happened?

interesting, I never greased mine except the outside of ram not long ago, put through maybe 5k rounds. I didn't even know those nipples are for injecting grease!

As soon as I seen the drive pawls on my press I thought better grease those. Nice to see I'm not the only one who does even though Hornady says its not needed.

Thank you for posting these videos. I experienced all the problems you mentioned. I called Hornady and they mailed me new parts. I now know how to change the out thanks to you. Again thank you!

Hey boss. Say all dies, linkage, powder drop and no shell plate. Only 2 bushings. How much is it worth? Bare press!

Thanks for this, most probably saved me from a tear down as I was fiddeling with adjusting the case feeder for the first time and managed to snap the drive nub while doing that. Now to score part #29 and replace it per your video, crossing my fingers that the local Hornady stockist may have it.

great video. You're a press saver. Thanks

Adam - thanks for taking the time to put these videos together. I galled the drive hub because I never knew to lube it. Made it to 8k rounds before failure and then had no idea how to tear the press apart to get the hub out. Your video saved me a ton of time! I had two issues. First, getting those screws out that hold the sub-plate in place. Wow. Ended up drilling and punching them out. Painful. The second was reassembling the bottom piston - as I took my press all the way apart to clean and lube. The spent primer tube is pressed in - and it can be removed by putting tape around it, grabbing it lightly with pliers, and tapping the pliers with a hammer. A quick call to Hornady and they sent replacement parts free of charge - no questions asked. Bonus! Again, thanks for your time.

It was a big kid match 👍🏼

looks like that last stage had a nasty trap on it?

Odd - your drive huh pops right off. Mine is completely seized like its pinned or something. I'll call hornady now :(

Thankyou so much for the good informative video

great video really helped me out alot.i'm having problems with 9mm and 40 caliber not ejecting alot.mite need to change my subplate. this video shows me how thanks

Thanks Rudy! I will call them. I have disassembled mine and sanded the lip to a chamfer and then polished it and the problem went away. What you mention sounds like a better plan.

Hey Adam, good video. I broke several of those plastic brake away pieces thanks to the primer plunger getting stuck because of shavings of brass. I called Hornady and they sent me for free small and large primer plunger without the rim. It's much better design. Since I changed it I had 0 problems with the priming system.

Love the little hop step thing!

Great shooting

Great shooting