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cool project, but its hard to tell from that tiny microscope, and the resin seems too volatile to control

why will it be destroyed if left open?

Have you tried curing another layer of the same resin on top of the lens? Something like a plastic pipette and a single drop on top of the lens. Then cure it separately. Adding a different material like gloss would be difficult because it'd need to have a similar refractive index

I need the images for those floppy disks if you could help me. I have a dolch pac luggable for my bench.

Print direct on the build plate no supports then use lapping film to sand the back of the lense 30um 5um 3um on a surface plate.

Not to be pedantic, but according to Wikipedia's definition that looks to no longer be a "micro" lense. Quick note on the sanding, I've no clue of sla prints, but for transparent FDM prints, sanding with just sand (in a rotating drumm) is preferable, since it does not mean pressing the abrasive onto the print, which leaves quite a bit fewer gashes and a slightly more uniform finish. But it's also more work to set up, and I've no clue if it'd actually be possible with sla prints.

For this DOE you should look at the Taguchi method. Especially great if you want to add time, other curing methods, and anything else.

My 2cent Leave them in the printer for at least 24 hours for the resin to run off and orientate the part in a suitable way to achieve this. You want the resin to run, not drip off of the lence. Don't wash. Lay the part flat, lence facing up, and let it sit for an hour in a vacuum chamber before introducing UV light cure under a vacuum. Do not overcure. If possible, leave on the build plate the entire process; this will lower contamination events and distortion in the part during curing. The same method can be applied if you wash the part. Then, to remove from the plate, Not with a scraper, place the plate in the cooler. After 40 minutes, the parts will be loose and will just slide off this way; nothing touches the part. Also, keeping the resin warm it lowers the viscousity, the resin will leave the part more easily.

while curing try to submerge them in water! the surface tension of what will help you create better surfaces on the lenses + it helps to spread the UV light better preventing your lenses from too quickly yellowing. Another completely different way what i would think about is: 1. Print the part normal on a SLA printer 2. clean it in isopropyl alcohol 3. dry it 4. create a extreme low viscosity resin (like the spray you mentioned) spray it on. 5. air remove whats too much sprayed on 6. put a little weight on the lense 7. put the lense with the weight into clean water cup 8. create a vacuum in the water cup to remove the bubbles in the water and increase surface tension. 9. put the vacuumized glass container into the curing station in theory you should get pretty prefect microlenses with the resolution of your printer, you might also want to look (in case it works) into much higher ppi mono lcd, then focus the mono LCD to sub 1 micron. heat the Resin to 47C to make it as low viscos as possible... Just a 2 cent brainfuck of me 🙂

Some ebike-tech to NASA Microlenses is quite the jump, but with a video as clickable as this, I am sure this channel will blow up soon. Fascinating stuff, especially considering how "Optically useless" prints - SLA or FDM - usually tend to be.

what's with the saddle pointing up that much?

This Scope Tektronix 420 IS good but you have a NVRAM inside for backup with battery ( Dallas backup memory) 20 years After dead..

Where did you buy it?

That's a nice pick up. I have a Tek 455 that I still use and is awesome for basic and HF work.

Ummm.....are you in your underwear?....lol. Anyway, that's a wonderful score to save from the landfill. Lucky man. Thanks for the fun video.

Great idea! How have I never tried this? I'm surprised to see how weak those glue-melds (not quite welded?) didn't have a stronger mechanical connection! You're right, though - it could be a useful technique for lots of other reasons rather than just bonding strength. That old microphone definitely gives me 80's camcorder vibes with its output, what a fun little project. You should glue-gun extrude a housing for the mic, like a makeshift 3d-printing pen lol

I like the old component test machines =) Very useful for my repair shop.

The Xrays come from the CRT not your little black tube. You need to learn how to use the triggering.

btw there are filaments that are much stronger you could try this with. bamboo labs PPA-CF

Your co-host Emma bears a striking resemblance to Emily The Engineer!

Lookup how triggering works, and lookup aliasing. Nice tool to start learning about digital oscilloscopes and the technologies used. It only emits X rays if at all when its on, as the electron beam hits the phosphor , from the front of the screen like all CRT TV sets and monitors used to ( long way back the tubes in the CRT EHT supply also emitted X rays , before semiconductor parts were used) The glass has lead mixed in it for shielding . have fun! I have a couple of dumpster instruments thrown out by Nokia back in the 1990's, and a couple of oscilloscopes from Philips where I worked in the 90's. My day to day oscilloscope is a battery powered Fluke 95 which has clever electronics in it that means it out performs todays $250 USB scopes.

What always gets me is how little thought goes into most of the models. People really love just blindly replicating shapes in plastic without acknowledging that the shapes are an artifact of the process and the material, just as much as they are determined by the end use.

lmao, i love that the best tool is proven again to be a hammer. Anything can be a hammer, even a wrench!

I know the answer: not as good as real tools. I’ve witnessed a corroded pipe take out a brand name pair of 12” Channellocks before. If tool steel can fail, plastic ain’t the answer.

silly woman going wrong way with the pliers

Here is a tip: Try not to run your camera on auto focus if you are to be moving in front of it, it drives the camera nuts, getting very confused about that the focus target is. You can use manual focus, if you know for example that the scope is 1 meter from camera, set manual focus to 1 meter. Very interesting video, keep up the great work.

3:42 Your signal generator is saying 100kHz, your scope is showing ~5Hz. I suspect your timebase is set way too low and you are viewing aliasing.

I had scored a broken TDS 420A out of the dumpster in 2010. I managed to find the problem (a small ceramic capacitor of 2 €cent in the power supply), and it still works like a dream ! These scopes are build for eternity !

Got a TDS320 pretty much the same way - great scope and sharp CRT display!

You bloody lucky bastard. I need to get back into dumpster diving, like I did when I was a kid. Thanks for sharing. 😉👌🏻

The rubber band on the forehead 😆That's quality.

10/10 video, gonna do this with all my landlines

mice

good channel

this video is really nice. thanks. im kinda considering doing this for a better mic now. (probably wont do it but its a good idea)

I got a TDS420A from an auction for 50 cents... Actually a _whole pallet_ of oscilloscopes... For 50 cents. It booted fine, but had 2 dead channels. I bought a dead one that didn't boot, and used a nice desoldering iron to transfer the ceramic modules from the donor scope to the one I had, and then used the calibration tools at work to calibrate it an generate a calibration certificate. I ended up selling it for half a grand, and the donor scope for parts... In the end, I only spent $60 restoring it... Well... $60.50

The label shows 20kV will be present on the CRT, even after it is switched off. Learn about discharging CRTs. Be very careful.

Have you determined the highest frequency at which a perfect square waveform can be accurately displayed on your equipment?

Download the operator and service manuals and watch some youtube videos such as eevblog and others on using a scope without blowing it up and it'll save you some heartbreak.. That crt tube runs on voltages in the tens of kV and the capacitors can hold a charge that will bite you hard also. Have fun and stay safe.

Maybe old by todays standards but a scope like this will get you out of trouble when debugging circuits ;)

12:51 The black thing is a fly-back transformer to produce the needed 15 - 20 KV to run the CRT.

8:31 Cathode Ray Tube(CRT) One of the last application of the vacuum tube. It stores charges of 15 to 20 KV. Be careful not to touch the connection of the anode (Red wire that goes into the tube.) This is where it can discharge and cause a possible shock.

0:36 don't use Emmanuel, pay him fairly

Great video!

Nice find with lots of the option boxes ticked.

If you find "RIFA" capacitors in the power input section, you should replace them as soon as possible. Best regards.

Looks like your triggering is not working properly. Maybe that's why it was tossed.

Replace all surface mount electrolytic capacitors right away if it hasn't already been reworked. They are bound to leak at this age.

I have a E2050A GPIB gateway (puts your GPIB instruments on the network) which I can sell it to you at $300 (I normally sell it for $400 on eBay) if you're interested. It's more versatile than USB which you're stuck with the drivers they provide.

What an amazing score! You maybe didn't realize yet how lucky you were to find it working and in a excellent condition with all those "accessories"! Damm i wish i could find "gold" like that... They still go for a non trivial amount of money on eBay.