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Much appreciated! Glad you liked it!

Thank you! Cool! It's so nice... I love it!

So you can torque it? I used an OTC pulley wrench, but nay universal pulley locking tool should work. For removal, you don't need a pulley lock.

Look through the bathroom storage area under the sink. There should be hardwood frame visible, and part of that frame has rounded edges. Also, my camper had factory T fittings and lines that I easily connected that were meant for the outside shower connection. Hopefully yours will have them? If you don't have the factory location, you just need to measure and make sure it will fit between the hardwood frame sections in your camper, and run water connections as necessary. Good luck!

Nunca te vas arrepentir de haberla comprado es como un juguete le puedes hacer muchas cosas modificar y mejorar

Thanks! I do have a few connections, but nothing left from any T50 cores. Call up Astro Transmissions in Tavares FL, Midwest Transmissions, Allstate Transmissions, Andy Bernbaum Autoparts, Fatsco etc. Dig around a little and I'm sure you'll find something in your area. Good luck!

It takes a 9v square wave to test the digital speedometers on that vintage Jeep. Use a sine wave generator and set it to square wave and you should be good. Check out Alldata for a wiring diagram, or Autozone can sell you access to Alldata for your specific vehicle I think...they used to for $20. Good luck!

Yes. It was screeching whenever the belt system had a load and when you hit the gas. So a terrible noise when you turned on the AC or headlights, or turned the steering wheel hard.

That's kind of what mine is doing if you find out a solution please let me know

@@harleytracker did the timing chain and it helped abit but still sorta gutless. Thinking maybe the converter is just tired?

@@Underbiteoutdoors damn alright will definitely look into that

Thanks! Usually it is sensor related if there is a mid-range that bogs down. Do you have any DTCs? Have you scanned it recently? They're generally robust Fi systems and dependable. Has anyone messed with the timing on the cam sensor back of the head? Do you smell any strange smells? Fuel etc? "Clears out" meaning loads up some? I would put a comprehensive scanner on it that has real time sensor viewing and make sure everything is doing what it should, inputs/outputs etc. You'll most likely find the issue. I have had some air mass flow sensors get "dirty" or read incorrectly. Some of the tests can be performed without a scanner manually with a good multimeter and specs from Alldata, which Autozone used to sell individual vehicle access for $20 each which can be invaluable. Usually the woodruff keys shear and then it can get off time, however these motors are interference engines and very susceptible to smacking the valves with very stretched chains or minor hard timing changes, so be careful! It's not hard to pull the crank pulley on these as they are not a strong interference fit, if you were curious. Fuel can be an issue too. If there is nothing obvious, pull the ECU and send it to a comprehensive testing agency, like Solo Electronics in Miami, and they can put it through the wringer and see if there's something strange inside the ECU causing the bog. I would check all the simple stuff first including secondary ignition and tune up too, making sure there isn't a miss or simple O2 or TPS failure. Stick with it and I'm sure you'll find it. Post it when you do! Good luck!

Usually those Aisin autos are pretty good trans, and a converter that usually fails, will do so quickly and catastrophically. These aren't super peppy vehicles. If it idles smoothly and performs relatively linearly, it's probably ok. Performance issues without any CEL are usually partially blocked exhaust such as a cat that's plugged, or an incorrectly adjusted cam sensor on the back of the head. It kinda acts like a distributor...kinda. Good luck!

I think it depends on where the leak is. If the coolant to air passage corroded through, I'm not sure...possibly TIG welding up the holes and a little machine work? The short answer I think is yes, but how much work, I'm not sure. If the fluid filled expander leaked, I think it would be easier to find a used one and clean it up. Good luck!

Thanks! I'm glad it helped!! Good luck!

Wow! I have no clue! If you find out, post it!

You'll need the wiring diagram, a power supply, a sine wave generator, and an oscilloscope with good detailed measuring capabilities. In short, you supply a round sine wave to the input, as if you were the VSS on the truck, and you lower the voltage to within (or greater than) factory specs, and as you increase the frequency, you make sure the speedometer needle assembly registers correctly and smooth, and the PSOM outputs a steady and correct square wave for the ECU to correctly tell the transmission how and when to shift. As long as it smoothly delivers these parameters, your PSOM and needle assembly are good. If you have those items, and you have more specific questions, I can try and help answer them.

@@whiteknightandshorty from watching your videos and reading your comments I was able to gather up quite a bit of information and I really appreciate it. I've already bought the equipment necessary. Appreciate you getting me on the right track and I'm surprised you actually answered . And thanks again.

@@Dalemanly You're welcome! LMK if there's anything else that would help you. Good luck!

Hmm... that sounds counter intuitive and backwards than what is intended, but it is possible, yes. The 16v has two water temperature activated sir flow compensators that may be an issue. You might want to make sure the secondary ignition and timing is accurate and where it should be, and that you don't have any other issues with the ECU or check engine lights etc. Then you might have to move onto manually testing the various sensors and their functions, and then make sure the coolant lines that branch out from the water pump return rail under the intake that travel through the smaller water lines through the intake and the two compensators are not plugged and are free flowing. Those bring the warm coolant through the two manual water temperature activated air compensators that make sure the programmed ECU delivers what it should when it should. If they are not opening, usually the engine doesn't idle correctly, or searches for the correct idle. Also, there is a procedure to set the idle air bypass screw on the throttle body, but if you haven't tou8ched it, I would not suggest messing with it, as it needs a few special tools to adjust it properly. Make sure you have access to some kind of shop information such as Alldata before you begin to adjust or attempt to correct for various discrepancies. Knowledge is power and information is crucial! Good luck!

@@whiteknightandshorty someone messed with the idle screw of my 94 sidekick, the one located on top ofertas the TB. Where can I find those instructions? As you screw it in, the engine wants to stall. If it is out, the rpm go up. Thanks.

You'll need to have decent equipment, including a power supply, a sine wave generator, an oscilloscope, and a good multimeter. You basically want to reproduce the VSS round sine wave into the PSOM and make sure that the VSS voltage low side is at or below the limit, and that the speedometer needle assembly smoothly follows the range of speed, and that the PSOM correctly outputs the proper square sine wave the ECU needs to correctly shift the trans (in automatic trucks). If you have that equipment, I can help you further, but if you have access to Alldata or any comprehensive shop data, the wiring diagram will indicate what to hook up where. If you have any other more specific questions, I'll try to help with them. Good luck!

The bike did run OK, but not perfectly. Thanks for the message! I needed to pull the carbs and hot tank them in some chemical dip in order to clean all the passages correctly, then synchronized them and adjusted their idles etc., but I did get it to run very well again. You may just have a piece of crud in the one carb, as the coils fire two by two with wasted spark, so if it's only one cylinder that is in question, it's most likely the carb. Stick with your repair! You'll get it! Good luck!

I'm sad that it doesn't get the attention it needs... Hopefully I'll find some time!

Check on the driver side transmission for a round peace with wires on end of it, should be at top edge you will see a band that held it, mine was just hanging there so I returned it to the small band holder and everything work great, I thank they pull them out to keep the mileage down, Mine was the 5 speed transmission, good luck hope this helps,

@@williamstidham2163I will have to look at it in the morning thank you very much for the reply good sir!!!

Something else to mention... Is it a standard or auto? With the standard models, the PSOM doesn't control anything but cruise (if equipped), but you'll know it when the PSOM stops telling it when to shift as the trans won't shift correctly, pretty badly actually. You might have to pull your cluster to check if it's getting power. The PSOM will illuminate and "power up" with 12v and it will read the mileage. When the ignition is in the "off" position, the light green and yellow wire at position C1 should have battery hot at all times. When the ignition is in the "on" or "run" position, it then sends power also to the white and purple wire in the C3 position. Check the pink and orange wire in the C2 position for ground. You can back probe these wires after removing the gauges without unplugging them. If you have ground and hot where you're supposed to, then your PSOM PCB has failed. Most likely your gauge works fine. They rarely fail. You can find a PSOM on eBay or send it in to a gauge repair shop have it repaired. Typically the capacitors dry out, or some tracings oxidize and deteriorate. Good luck! Sorry for the late message! Thanks for the reply!

@@whiteknightandshorty but it does illuminate when I start the truck, anyways I’m gonna have to pull it apart this weekend and see if everything is as it’s supposed to be, thank you again for the reply it really helps!!!

Thanks! And thanks for the tape tip! Especially for me, it's so nice...!

When these engines get a lot of miles on them, they do stretch the timing chains to a point where it's possible that you may have bent a couple valves, but if you were turning it by hand you would have noticed that clearly because the engine would've stopped and you would've felt it bump into a valve. Even then, it would start, or try to start, on a couple cylinders and run horribly. Did you break anything like the tone ring for the crank sensor? or the timing case by prying? The "start trick" to loosen the bolt is just a quick bump to break it free, then you do the rest by hand. Does the new pulley fit well? If it sounds like it's cranking well, start basic. Check for fire by removing one of the coils and putting a spark checker in between the coil and the plug. Be sure to connect a jumper wire from ground to the metal ground of the coil. If you have spark, go to fuel and make sure you have correct fuel pressure. You may need to borrow a special tool so that you can temporarily put the banjo tee with a gauge on the pressure side of the fuel line to check for proper fuel pressure. If you have that, you can borrow a fuel injector node light set and see if the injectors are firing. You can then check compression. Then check your timing, by pulling the valve cover, find TDC #1 and see where your cams and timing are. If you have fire, fuel, compression, and timing, it should run. I suspect one of those is a culprit. If you broke the tone ring for the crank sensor, and it isn't turning, or part fell into the oil pan, I'm not sure if that car will run or not. It should based on the cam sensor, and set a crank position sensor code. Pull out the crank sensor and look into the hole while you turn the engine by hand. You should see the tone ring teeth move when you turn the crank. Can you scan it possibly? Keep at it! You'll find it! Good luck!

Hi, and thanks! Here's an Amazon link to a decent puller/installer set, but you can find many that will do the job as well. Many parts stores have a tool loan program that might also be useful. Good luck! a.co/d/bVQzSIN

Mine is tight to the rubber mounts in the frame, but it's always shaken a little bit. The mounts seem ok, but after all that bike has been through, I can see it shaking a little!

Hi, thanks for your comment. I'm not sure without comparing the two transfer cases you have there in India. We don't get all the neat stuff the rest of the world has! To explain the basic principle, when you lift and increase tire size, you change the final drive ratio, and often those engines are anemic to begin with, so you need to lower the gear ratio back to around stock for the engine's best performance. You can do this by replacing both differential gears, or for what many of the guys do, you can replace the transfer case gear set that will reduce the high and the low, which will bring you back down to a better gearing, and slow your low crawl speeds, which is a "win-win" in most situations, and much easier than setting up two differential gear sets, while not affecting low range ratio. You have a few choices when ordering a t-case gear kit. You should calculate the ratio kit by percentage to get you back to your original gearing. I can go into this a little more, so let me know if you need me to do so. It sounds like the 1.3 t-case you mentioned must have a lower ratio high, which is why it limits the speed. There's kind of a power/speed balance you have to find. This brings me to the efficiency range... There is a decrease of efficiency when you increase rolling weight/friction/wind resistance etc by increasing tire height. My suggestion is to find the lightest weight tires you can with the tread pattern you're looking for. Heavy mud tires slow you down and cause more wear and tear on everything, but if they serve your purpose, great! All terrain are better for street and more mild manners, but lack bite and mud clearing etc. You will reduce efficiency but gain off-road capabilities. I hope this helps. Let me know anything specific and I'll try and help. Thanks and good luck!

Hi, and thanks! It depends on what you're comfortable with. I believe the 05-06 has a seat adjustment and might be slightly lighter? Neither are fuel injected yet I believe, so very similar bikes. Do you have an opportunity to ride the two and see if you feel a noticeable difference? Personally, being that I am not the most petite man, I prefer larger displacement choices. Let me know which one you pick!

@@whiteknightandshorty Yeah, thanks for the answer mate. I am leaning towards the 650 2005-2006 that is still a carb bike. Drop by mate, you may like my content. Will do, will let you know. :)

They are built like rugged tin cans aren't they...but I'm not sure about the Geo Metro, as I've owned one...and the entire car is a crumple zone!

I think yes. Every set I've installed has needed a bit of break-in time, where the whining noise will calm down over time. It's not abnormal to have a little audible whining, but nothing very loud, and nothing you can feel. Only slightly, but noticeable. Drive it!

I also just checked the pink/orange wire for continuity and the ground is good, yet the odometer nor the speedometer are working. I've been trying to diagnose this thing for weeks, I've traced every wire and replaced the speed sensor

If you're getting power to the battery positive, and the key on positive, and the ground is good, and it still isn't coming on and showing the mileage, it's the board that has failed. Look in your junkyard for a PSOM that you can grab that looks good that you can check it it comes on at a minimum. If so, install it. It will most likely be the fix! If your speedo is coming on and showing the mileage and the needle is "zeroing" itself out, but not moving when you drive, the problem is either in the tone ring on the carrier, the VSS, or the wiring from there to the gauge. Good luck!

I'm not sure what you mean by a cooler from a PC, but if you want to add mileage to match your vehicle, you can power the PSOM up and connect a sine wave generator to it and crank it up to 90 mph and let it run. I think it may be ok to use the lower mileage one. The other solution is to take pictures to prove the mileage on your vehicle and take it to a Ford dealership that still has the mileage match machine where they can calibrate your new PSOM to the actual mileage of the vehicle. Good luck!

Be very careful when connecting everything as a simple quick brush of one connection may damage the board. Also, make sure you have good test equipment. Lt Grn/yel = C1 = Battery Pnk/Org = C2 = Ground Wht/Ppl = C3 = Ignition Run Hot Red/Pnk = C4 = VSS input (sine wave input from VSS from tone ring) Lt Grn/Blk = C5 = VSS return which is the "negative" side of the VSS sine wave Gry/Blk = C7 = VSS Output to ECU and will be a square wave Lt Blu/Yel = C9 = PSOM enable programming to change the PSOM speedo algorithm for different tire size or gearing

These were the longest plug and play risers I could find. I actually got them on eBay several years ago now at least, and were not too expensive. Bolted in easily and are very sturdy and work well. They really made the small amount of positional difference I was looking for and I really enjoy them! I think they were 2" risers and are right on the edge of usability for everything with full steering. 1.5" may achieve nearly the same with even easier connectivity.

I don't have enough followers yet to be promoted like that, but thank you very much!! It's hard for me to keep up, but I'm trying! Thanks again!!

You're welcome!! Thank You!!

Thanks for you thought. Personally, I'm limited by my computer, editing software, and TH-cam's 15 minute limitations (otherwise I would have to pay!). I had the idea to make some videos where it may help a couple small things when the viewer had some previous knowledge of the topic. I would love to be able to upgrade my hardware and software to accommodate. Then I could go more slowly, maybe talk over the videos and impart more tips along the way. Plus, I'm relatively new to this and I'm learning as I go. If you have any specific questions, I'll try and answer them. Thanks for your comment, and also for your patience with my video improvements. I'll try to incorporate more details. Thanks!

With the ignition key! There's a keyed release on the left side of the bike just below your leg and just below the seat. It's also the locking hangar for your helmet.

You may want to check your VSS input. You can check it accurately with a handheld oscilloscope, or you can check its function with a quality multimeter on AC voltage. The voltage will increase linearly as you increase your speed. If it tops out, you most likely have a broken tone ring on the side of the ring gear on the carrier. You can check that by removing the VSS, and lightly with a regular screwdriver, you would be able to rotate the "thin bumpy gear" that will be centered in the VSS hole. If you measure an good increase in voltage at the PSOM harness, your PSOM board or the needle motor is bad, and you'll need it to be repaired. Instrument gauges shops are still all over, and most likely can repair it at that point. I hope this helps. Good luck!

Sounds like there may be something wrong with the tone ring in the differential. Can you connect an oscilloscope or a simple multimeter on AC voltage and see if it continues to rise from the VSS?

Sorry for not being too clear. Videos are hard to make! If you have any questions, I'll try and answer them.

Thank you! They're still working great!

You're welcome! I'm glad it was helpful!

Good point! If it was anything other than a yard bike... Plus that part of those headers has reinforcements and are quite strong there. And when the bike is on the center stand, it doesn't take much force to raise the front wheel, so in this case, it doesn't hurt a thing!