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I’ve seen a few people say cooler but that definitely doesn’t work for me. That’s why I always try to understand the why behind something happening and if what is working makes sense. In this case, you want the print to not cool too quickly so if you can keep heat in those lower layers, it helps with reducing fast shrinking and pulling away from the bed. All I can say is that heat works for me and I don’t need glue or anything added to the bed to hold on the print. My advice is, every setup is different so if you get something pulling up, try just changing bed temp one way or the other and test what works in your case. I’d love to hear how it goes and see if I’m just special :-) !!!!!

I originally thought the same and not sure if mine is damaged but it definatley doesnt heat out to the edges and only really heats about a 60 by 60mm square in the center well. Past that it's heat transfer from the center is my guess. I've tested heating the bed to 80 degress and you can well and truely touch out past the center but can cook and egg in the middle. Could be time for a new one ! :-)

Glad it helped. This video might have some more into to help with the pressure build up, specifically around estep calibration. th-cam.com/video/kuAMtoUJGgE/w-d-xo.html

One f the most useful things I’ve printed and still one of my most popular videos! hope it worked out !

yeah, position of stringing can be tough. if you arent able to set it to not cross perimeters to help, in some slicers you can set seam placement which could help if you polace the seam so it has to cross infill to get to the next part so any stringing will hopefully be mainly within the part.

Good point. I've been using a lot of matte colours from Overture recently and apparently they are made by Polyterra, just rebranded but a much cheaper though so an alternative for those on a budget :-)

@@3DPrintSmith I have used Overture TPU and that has been great. That's good to know.

thanks for watching

my latent organisation monster in the back of my head loved printing them and lining them up

Nice find. I did a quick search and found it here if anyone needs it. teachingtechyt.github.io/calibration.html#temp

It was a little tricky at first to see it but when you slice it, as you go through the layers you want to pause just after the corner tabs are printed. That’s the recommendation anyway and I think it’s so the acrylic is held down so the print doesnt move it. I printed another one and because my acrylic was fairly thin and easily fit I paused just before the tabs and it worked for me no problem.

Glad you liked it!

Good point. The only problem I have is space where I do most of my cleanup is a bit tight. I think for a lot of people though it'd be a great option ( and I've definately gone too far with one or two cleanups and scorched some prints!)

Glad you enjoyed it

believe me, I know the time pressure making videos takes ! I’ll have a lot more time myself now because I was made redundant at work so this will be my full time gig for a while. I’ll get a lot more videos done but not something I can recommend ! good luck getting the time.

@@3DPrintSmith Thanks mate, ohh sounds great... looking forward to it !

had to look that up but you’re right. realised just now I’ve been using that wrong my whole life!

@@3DPrintSmith Think about oil in your car. Low viscosity when it's cold and vice verse. :)

If they are going to sit in a hot car dont forget to use the appropriate filament to avoid warping. petg or nylon would be my go to for anything in the car.

Mouse ears are definitely my first option.

you want it to be fairly thin. if you make it thick, you start to introduce the shrinking forces on top and have potential for the mouse ear to then pull up as well !!

@3DPrintSmith ah, that's what I was afraid of. So what's the ideal height in your opinion? Just one layer, or a few?

I typically go only 1 layer, sometimes 2 if the layer height is really small, like less than 0.12

100% !! the larger ones though the handle is in better proportion.

For me, prints come off basically by themselves once the bed cools down completely so keeping it warm for as long as possible keeps that consistent grip. More due to slowing the slight shrinkage pulling it off the bed than actual stickiness.

For PLA def keep it warm, when it cools down it loses sticky properties and just comes off

Absolutely. My main printer is a Creality Ender 5 and I changed to Prusaslicer from Cura about 2 years ago. I occasionally use Cura every now and then but I'm slicing 99.5% of things in Prusaslicer now. Once I got the printer settings dialled in I thinkit gives a better result. When you install Prusaslicer or Orca you get the option of choosing the printer model and the basic Creality models are all there. There's a few things I changed from the base like retraction settings and jerk as well as the custom gcode to stop it moving around so much before and after the print. For the CR10 you probably would need to do a few changes as well depending on your setup but I can recommend installing and giving them a go.

thanks! My son always loves getting in the videos!

On the Bambi you could try lowering the layer height as well but the same tips apply. If all those points don’t help, make sure you bed isn’t warped too, especially if it lifts repeatedly around the same spot on the bed.

I have to apologise for not getting this one out when I thought I would. Hopefully next week. Work life has been hectic but I stop working at the end of themonth and I'm hoping to spend more time on content.

@@3DPrintSmith It's alright, take your time. I also has the same problem where stringing everywhere but when I increase retraction from 1mm higher it causes extrusion motor to skips. Temperature change didn't have any significant effect on result

Took longer than I thought but it’s up finally th-cam.com/video/kuAMtoUJGgE/w-d-xo.html

I found this one that looks like theres some spacer around the base so you lose a tiny but of available volume. www.printables.com/model/354934-packout-3-drawer-gridfinity-system

I haven’t used it but I found this article that explains how which is very similar to this video. wiki.bambulab.com/en/software/bambu-studio/use-disc-to-avoid-warping

I appreciate it, thanks !!

hope they help. I think the scraper might not be the best one out there now I’ve used it for a while. there’s some others that are a much thinner edge, more like a razor blade that I think work better.

That's a shame, the hinge was the trickiest part for me and was definately a challenge. If you are after a portable gridfinity case still though the one I looked at last year with the screw latch might be a good alternative. that one sits on my desk and I'm using it all the time. www.printables.com/model/543553-gridfinity-storage-box-by-pred

i can see you problem, after printing 3 cases. having the wrong layerhight inserting the window is a problem. not using the calibration is bad, I ended up using the onshape models, which are configurable and nicely designed, to use larger diameters for the holes, and was able to easily print it with the 0.6 nozzle, and the assembly was easy.

Its a Deburring tool. I got this one from Amazon that comes with some extra blades. amzn.to/4d7t2Xe. They can debur metal as well so you just have to be a little carefull not to go too deep and start carving into it. If you've got some failed prints its good to practice a few times first.

Basically everything is a multiple of 7mm and for the pre configured one I made it was what’s called in gridfinity height 6 so 42mm. most gridfinity bins are in multiples of 3 so 3, 6, 9, 12 (21mm, 42mm, 63mm, 84mm). If you use the onshape model you can adjust z multiple in the same way you do the number of bins x and y.

Hope it works well !

nice to hear from another Aussie. according to the TH-cam stats it’s only about 10% of viewers. On this one definitely try the calibration print first if you want to use the filament in the hinge. you might need to adjust in your slicer.

@@3DPrintSmith Cheers for the the info m8....this 50yr ol bloke is partially disabled so my hobby is 3d printing and Rc Crawling. I will be using the Calabration print first and going from there. i also follow "Once in a six side" on YT as well, another Aussie who does resin and painting. HooRoo ol m8 from Ipswich QLD😁

Glad it was helpful!

great idea and in the spirit of gridfinity open to everyone. PS. love the username !

great idea. after a while those flexible bits do lose a bit of effectiveness.

No supports on those at all.

@@3DPrintSmith ok

I started using the hex wall just before multi board came out but I’ve been thinking of switching. Once you start using gridfinity you won’t stop! funny enough I’m making a case that’s trending on printables now that’s very similar but with a clear window on top. video in a week or so.

Not my design but I love that I’ve been able to highlight this one for so many extra people to try out. If you see any good models out there that you think needs more attention let me know and I might do a video on them.

Definately make sure you check out the remixes like www.printables.com/model/921831-better-grip-for-base-2-and-25cm-frame that have better grip. The original ones I printed ended up getting a bit loose for me.

I know right ! Where I am, if the gravity knife blade was longer I wouldn’t be able to carry it past my property boundary because the blade flicks out and locks. Also the laws are a little vague. With that length I could if my intention was that it was for craft or utility usage but who’s to say my intention except me!

thanks ! Since I scattered these around I find myself using one almost every day for something. I didn’t realise I spent so much time looking for one all the time or finding an alternative way of cutting something !!!!!

It's definately one of the best and hhardly uses any filament so it's great all round !

@@3DPrintSmith th-cam.com/users/postUgkxitRGYiPid3QYYNDbrdJ0Il4uP8s7FkBT

thanks for sharing the knife model 🙂

Appreciate it! It’s been tough to find time to get videos together lately but I’ve got some big ones soon hopefully.

@@3DPrintSmith feel ya, generally im overthinking everything right now as i barely find time

for this one it was all PLA

@@3DPrintSmith thanks dude

I appreciate the viewpoint. I agree gridfinity is great for getting organisation where there's something that doesnt exist but then there's plenty of drawer organisers out there as well so where would we use it? Although it's not quite as big, I can't get a Stanley sort master for cheaper than $19 and this case cost about $4 so for price it's a winner. Time wise, it would have been a lot less to go buy something or even order one with next day delivery. The way I've ended up using this though is more of a job to job carry case. I already have gridfinity in some drawers in the garage where everything lives permanently and If I'm doing something away from there, I can use this case, grab the boxes of stuff I need from the drawers and take it to where ever I'm doing something so works out great. You could probably do something similar with a store bought case but this way, all the gridfinity boxes I use inside as well in my office drawers and at my maker table are interchangeable and I dont need to replace all those. That's the beauty of gridfinity and 3d printing in general I guess. Whatever we need for our own situation is what makes sense.