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Hi, it's the TorquePro app connected to a cheap OBD device.

@@steffenneubauer1943 Thanks. The job took about 4+ hours for one wheel bearing the first time. Second time should be much quicker. I’m not too sure on the backing plate replacements, but you could try searching Partsouq.com website for genuine parts at fair prices.

The wheel hub assembly, containing the bearing inside, is a pressed, greased and sealed unit that is ready for fitting.

Glad this has helped. Just remember the short wheel base wheel hub be a different part number, see 11:51. Good luck 👍

Thanks!

Hi. No, the front hubs are a different part number. PartSouq is a great website to find the part numbers that suit your model.

OMGOSH Thanks For Responding Sir!!!! Yes Sir! I just learned that, and then you just confirmed it! I have came across some questionable information on here, so it's a bit confusing! I was a 5th wheel / crude tanker mechanic for 4 years. I have done these types repairs on nearly every model there is. 2015 I was diagnosed with Pugalustica Dementia. I have lost a lot of information up in the attic, and it can be so frustrating! 😂😂 Out of all the videos I have seen, yours is honestly the best! It really did bring some memories back, and I think I can honestly do it now! I really don't want to have to pay for a mechanic, and buying the tools needed is far cheaper. Well I will stop rambling! Yo, Much Thanks Subscribed From The States, Iowa PS: I'm a Montero/Pajero fan for life. If you make anymore vids, please share! 😁

Hi, I’m so happy to hear that this video is helping many people with different experiences all over the world. Good luck with the task and thanks so much for your support 👍.

It’s hard to say but I’ll do my best to explain it. The worn wheel bearing noise generally sounds like a humming / whining / light rumble noise coming from the rear that increases in volume and pitch with speed. It usually can be heard starting at around 30-40kmh and then becomes too hard to hear at 70kmh+, because of road noise. It’s usually easiest to hear when slowing down, with throttle off. The worn wheel bearing noise/play can come in varying forms and a combination of tricks can be used to diagnose it. For instance, when my other side wheel bearing was worn it was very loud in the rear while driving, more than this side, and yet there was no play in the wheel/tyre when trying to wobble/twist it whatsoever. To differentiate a worn wheel bearing from a worn differential, try turning left and right on big swooping bends. This shifts the weight of the vehicle more onto one side/bearing and takes it off the other. If the noise increases when the weight is on that side, and decreases when the weight is off of it, then it is most likely that side’s bearing that is worn. If the noise is constant on both left, right turns and driving straight, then it’s possible that it’s the differential or possible even both wheel bearings that are worn (I’ve had this before).

@@spannerbox1591 Hi Mate, thank's for the help, just bought the NP Auto 04 pajero and you know usual go through fixing stuff before a planned trip in future, and what you write makes perfect sense..i do have play in drivers front bearing but no play in other 3, only slightly goes away when rock steering at speed "bigger bends yet to try", kinda ramps up rumbling but increases with speed up to 95 about kinda platoes as fast as i gone..tyres do look chewed on front front not too bad "camber thing" and wearing on angle and rear well 1x brand new on and other 20% so 20mm height mismatch but ?..groan yeah rear diff,has oil in it but could be that from what you wrote..genuine rear hubs are 400ea au and 300front each HUB..have you tried just doing bearing section of whole hub before..i got a 20ton press coming for another car work..too hard?..i use amayama mitsubishi parts but yeah 30day lead time from japan..have you ever had a transfer case 2wd rumble like that or not possible?.. sounds rear to me but you know rumbles hard to pin down..definitely not a grind..anyway i will report back if ok when fixed so others can learn? cheers

@@spannerbox1591 i changed the front wheel hubs what a C of a job..oem ones from 2004 hehehe..even bought that tool no go..propane,heat,,wd40 and LOVE TAPS with big hammer in certain spots, then chisel n hammer and more wd40..NO change to rumble..ended up being tyres, mostly GONE now..never have i heard tyres that loud before "coopers" (just bought car 3weeks ago)..might need to do rears also so thank'a for you video and tips at 53 i thought id lost my love tap mojo but still there..CHEERS

@@stigonutube Happy to know you figured it out and have fixed the issue. Also glad to hear that this video helped.

It’s hard to say, but it took me 3-4 hours.

I haven’t done one on the front before but I believe it is a similar process. There is a video on TH-cam of someone replacing the front wheel hub on a Gen 4. One difference shown in the manual, is that vehicles with 17 inch brakes have a front inner oil seal that should be renewed and press-fit into the knuckle.

I had a quick look online (PartSouq) and it appears that for a Gen3 LWB V76 the rear hub bolts are M12. I believe the Gen4 though is M14 bolts for LWB and M12 for SWB.

@@spannerbox1591 ok...thanks for the effort, I was in discussion with the store over this 🤣 they stood ground it was the correct part for my chassis number 🙃 Now I gonna start the grease job 👍

@@NerdiasmeGood luck with it 👍.

Yes, the front axle nut is also 220 ± 10 Nm.

If you watch at 14:13 I mention this step and explain why it’s best to fully tighten when car is level on the ground. If you tighten with the shock and arm extended the bush can wear prematurely as it does not spend most of its time in that position. But yes, thanks for the reminder and this step should not be forgotten.

Thanks. The bearing installed in the video was a genuine part and so I’m hoping to get that mileage out of it as that’s how long the original OEM one lasted. Naturally, many factors affect bearing life and your mileage may vary. Yes, they are a sealed and pre greased hub assembly. Straight out of box and onto vehicle.

Thanks. I used a regular 17mm 1/2” socket. I remember trying unsuccessfully to wiggle a 17mm impact socket on and it was just that little bit thicker which wouldn’t let it fit.