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@@mikebeckwith2846 the fuel filler has 2 parts the hinged part where you actually lift to fit the fuel hose , this has 3 Allen screws on the top of the unit , remove those and then that part is easily lifted away give it you access to the inner part that fixes to the tank itself (be aware there are 6 screws on the unit but 3 are fake , if in doubt remove them all) This final part is held in by the little guy screws which i then show on my video .

@@mikebeckwith2846 or if you mean to remove the unit after you have removed the small grab screw , you just have to get your hands inside the hole on the unit and pull up (with some force) now mine cam out quite easily but some have had to really pull hard to get it to come out

Glad it was of help to you

Going to do the belts on mine this week , I’ve never done belts before so should be interesting :-)

Hi Carlos , If the sp5 is the same as the Strada (which I’m sure it is ) the procedure would be as follows Take out the 3 Allen bolts that holds the hinge filer lid unit (there are just 3 the other Allen head are fake) This should come off quite easily to reveal the inner fuel cap unit, This will get you to 1:16 on the video this inner fuel cap unit is then held in place by several small Allen screws that screw from the inside flange of the unit 90 deg to the tank (take these completely out to be sure) and be sure not to drop any into the tank Once all of those have been removed the inner part is just then held in by a rubber o-ring and this can sometimes be stuck fast , I was able to get my fingers inside and with some force pull it upwards to remove it, now some guys have had to use more force and yank at it and some resort to using a hammer shaft to gently lever it out, but be really careful if you do this . It will come out just be persistent , you done need any special tools

If I understand your question correctly /

@@mickkkkyy Tanks Mick, i'll try, after i'll give new about this.

Oh thats great thank you for the comment , glad it was helpful to you

Hey Erik , sorry for the fast narration , I thought I was actually quite slow :-) 1:- for treatment of the tank and rust removal we used the POR kit , see link below it’s the complete system for reclaiming the tank rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F391912949966 2:- main reason for bad / erratic running was Clogged filters , especially the gauze one at the bottom of the pump , the pump was actually okay and I could have used it again but I replaced just it as a matter of course The symptoms of bad running I was having with the bike was , it would sometimes stall on idle , it would run fine then gradually run worse and worse until it went onto one cylinder before stopping all together , sometimes it would not start , sometimes it would , soedays it would run without an issue (but not often) :-) Hope this all helps and if I can help you further please let me know Mick

It was especially worse when the fuel level was low

HEY Mick ! THANXX for the Answer ! Heavens ! = As your Name is "Hodgson" ( Like Neil ?) i hope Your "SLOW Pace" on Track is Not Faster than your "SLOW Narration" = impossible To Follow ...😁 Seriously ,"MERCI beaucoup" for the Ebay Link = i think it Should be "UseFUEL" for many DUCATIsti with Rusted Tanks (888 , 916 ...) it is A PITY to SELL So Expensive Bikes with RAW Iron Tank inners , WITHOUT Any Special Gasoline PAINT , Specially with an INJECTION Fuelling !$!$ = Even OLD /5. Series BMW had PAINTED Tanks ,to Avoid Rust damages , despite their simple BING Carbs. ! OR , K. Series had Raw ALU. Alloy Tanks .... Read You Soon ! ERIK 🗼🇫🇷🌊😎