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@@cherihutchins1305 thank you!

@@KevinLCole2023 thank you for your kind words. I’m glad the videos help.

Your foundational training*

@@hapaanthony3434 right away!!! Congratulations on your new Dobe! Training will develop a strong relationship. If he’s young, I have a playlist with training lessons appropriate for puppies. Otherwise, use the lessons in the shape training playlist.

@@kellytoncar5766 halt means sit

@@BaebeasDogTrainingPortland Thank you. Absolutely new to rally and want to practice as properly as possible.

@@diegoruiz7600 this dog earned nice scores at this year’s AKC Rally National Championship. If you notice, she’s high energy but focused.

@@dipperderdawg thank you. I’m glad the video helped.

@@lindamcmanus5807 depends on the size of your dog. Aussies and border collies in my trick class did well on 1” PVC. Don’t go smaller than 3/4” (my 9 lb dog did fine on this size) because the inside dimensions are not big enough to fit treats.

@@BaebeasDogTrainingPortland ty

@@michellegordon4211 during Covid. Just more efficient to keep the cones in the ring.

@@BaebeasDogTrainingPortland ahhh, thanks. I figured covid had something to do with it!

@@lindamcmanus5807 be prepared to wait awhile for the first couple times they pick it up. Some dogs think you’re setting them up. Some dogs are very good at waiting you out until you either help them or give up.

Let me know how it goes.

@@chrisscinta1973 be prepared to wait your dog out. Some dogs take awhile to pick it up the first time. I recommend tossing on the floor while watching TV so you have something else to do instead of waiting and getting frustrated. Some people have to reward sniffing the fetch stick at the beginning, then gradually wait for more interaction.

Me too. I have to go there today!

@@andreabelt10 thank you! I’m hoping even if something I post doesn’t work, it will help you think outside the box and come up with something that will work.

@@sammiflynn9587 he’s a baby, and he’s a terrier. It’s going to be awhile before he grows up and you can trust him. Do you mark when his shoulder is near you? Or is there a chance you’re marking and rewarding when he’s too far back? If you train outside a business with big windows (sliding doors at Home Depot for example) you can watch your reflection instead of looking down at him.

@@thafunkyhomosapienne Here’s a link to the full video. th-cam.com/video/_KPffqgwlaM/w-d-xo.htmlsi=jwcBRs8YdlHSb-Gx

@@lindamcmanus5807 thank you. Maverick is almost ready for the next lesson to be posted.

@@cecilebraillie4471 very happy to hear your dog is learning AND is having fun.

@@cecilebraillie4471 🤣 We all mess up this way! Many times I want my dog to move a head but instead my dog offers a paw. If you’re getting head movement with sneezing, wait him out a bit. After that initial sneeze, there should be some type of movement. Reward that. No matter how inappropriate it is. Once the sneezing is eliminated you can reshape the head movement.

@@cecilebraillie4471 thank you! This is my heart dog. She is now 11 years old and very active still.

@@Theodore-S thank you for commenting. I’m glad the video helped you.

@@christinemusselman2808 it’s a Cato Plank. I love it!!!

Thank you!

@@Sandraa021 once they are trained, holding it is okay. When introducing to the odor I want it very strong. So I carried it in my pocket for a couple hours.

Thank you for your kind words.

@@illuminadia6023 Thank you!

@@SD-my9so thanks for the suggestion! I was helping someone with that yesterday. I’ll make a video.

@@BaebeasDogTrainingPortlandthank you Ill be checking to see when its posted.😊

@@SD-my9so I’ll comment here when it’s ready.

@@BeauOnTheGo_DC during practice I do not call alert because I want to mark the instant my dog zones in in the odor. To eliminate the pawing, I first start marking and rewarding at the head snap, before my dog thinks about pawing. Then I transition to a treat on source, ask for the preferred behavior, and give a jackpot for the preferred behavior.

@@nochannel787 thank you!

@@spacemanspiff559 I mark the instant the dog is in heel position with “yes”, then I reward after the yes. At first I mark as soon as the dog gets into position. But, as you see fairly quickly I can add duration and not mark for several strides. The dog is waiting for the “yes” not the reward. Here’s another example. th-cam.com/video/Ms0zKvuOZ7c/w-d-xo.htmlsi=zKJEVbt09-Epp6iE

@@BaebeasDogTrainingPortland excellent! Thanks again for these wonderful videos!

@@ColwelC thank you! I’m glad the videos help.

@@barbaraholmes9694 thank you!

@@michellestoppa6162 thank you!

Thank you!

Try this. th-cam.com/video/L6gQLiHdX7Y/w-d-xo.htmlsi=paCG-H0J_HoDl16e

If you don’t lure, fading out the reward is relatively simple. You just give it randomly so they never know when it’s coming. Random reward turns your dog into a gambler. This time at the slot machine didn’t pay off and the gambler refuses to leave the game until there’s a payoff. Instead of correcting for inattention, I change direction and correct to get into position than reward lavishly. 1. Instead of correcting to stop bad behavior, correct to compel good behavior. 2. Every correction needs a corresponding reward.

Thanks for your quick response. So if I understand correctly, When my dog disengages I would change direction away from the distraction, wait for him to get back in position then reward. I’ll certainly try it. Appreciate your help.

It’s all about the skill of the person doing the procedure. It could be painful if the vet is unskilled. Or it could be no big deal.

At the higher levels, Sign 108 is a figure 8 with either food or toy distractions.

Yes, but the first day she was very naughty. She actually poked me in the face a couple times.

@@BaebeasDogTrainingPortland Ouch!

My dog, Maverick, pokes her nose towards the odor then looks at me waiting for her reward. She has naturally done this and since it’s reliable and doesn’t disrupt the search area, I never bothered training a different alert. My dog, DashDash, paws at the odor and flings containers across the floor. Since this disrupts the area, I had to train an alert that is not disruptive.

Intellectually, a dog is a dog is a dog. Where they differ is their motivation. Some dogs were bred to work in cooperation with their owner/handler. Those dogs are push button dogs and even people who don’t know what they’re doing can train them. Some dogs were bred to work independently and require a lot more understanding of what motivates them to successfully train them. A person who successfully trains independent breeds has already learned to think outside the box, has learned all dogs are individuals, and can pivot their training style when needed. A person who has only trained the adoring golden retriever or border collie has not learned these skills to be able to train dogs that do not follow a set pattern.

I “mark” when her back feet touch the mat. I say “yes.” Then I release her from position to encourage drive and motivation to give her a greater desire to learn and perform. I reward in position when training a stand, sit, or down because that’s what I’m training. I reward in position for a straight front or straight sit in heel position because that’s what I’m training. But, standing on the mat is not my desired end result. Backing up is my desired end result. So I reward after she has completed the back up. It’s much easier to transition to another target, or no target, if I remove the reward from the target.

@@BaebeasDogTrainingPortland Makes perfect sense, thanks for taking the time to clearly spell it out!!!!! I am working on some "moves" that we will utilize in Canine Musical Freestyle and backing up is definitely a desirable "dance" move. If you are familiar with this sport and know who Carolyn Scott is, then you've seen their famous dance routine to the classic song from Grease where her Rookie can back up across the entire floor, turn and then back up towards her, it's amazing and brings tears to my eyes every time I view their routine!

Thank you so much! She’s my heart dog❤️

In this video I’m using floral tubes. Their small plastic tubes with a hole for odor to escape.

yes 720P HD

Once your dog fully understands what you want, you can eliminate both the step and lure, and use a leash prompt. Rew😢your dog lavishly and your dog will start moving without any prompting.

I’m not asking my dog to sniff the can. I’m asking my dog to sniff the cotton ball. You see in the video she’s putting her nose INSIDE the can. The ONLY odor inside the can is the scented cotton ball. One with my odor, and one with someone else’s odor. If outside the can was an issue, my dog would not have successfully found the correct cotton ball. Being able to correctly identify my cotton ball vs someone else’s cotton ball tells you odor outside the can is a non issue. Now, if odor outside the can is an issue, think about it. How would I put on the gloves? If I put the gloves on by myself, my odor is on the gloves, which leaves my residual odor outside the can. If I asked someone to help me put on gloves so my odor is not on the outside of the gloves, now my helper’s residual odor is left on the can because my helper’s odor is on the gloves. There is NO way for outside the can to be odor free. So instead, I train my dog to search the cotton ball inside the can.

I don’t feed from my left hand because 1. I want to be able to manage the leash with my left hand. 2. I don’t want to distract my dog with the food so close to him. 3. Feeding from the left hand lures the dog and it’s harder to fade out the food. 4. I don’t feed while heeling. I stop the lesson and drop the treat on the ground to incorporate prey drive to increase motivation. By feeding from the left hand it teaches the dog to watch your hand instead of making eye contact.

Barney jumps 24” in agility competition. But, I practice him up to 36”.

@@BaebeasDogTrainingPortland that’s amazing! I had a Doberman, sadly died at three of a heart condition that we were not aware/told about by the breeder. So sadly, I didn’t get him into training.

@@ProjectD11 very sorry. I’ve lost Dobermans young also.