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@melvinpugh4686 I’m glad my videos can help. I will post more as I fix different cars different parts. Any questions feel free to ask and if I can help answer them I sure will.

Nano619er Correct! The valve cover will push the cams back down. The timing is never messed with.

@lesliewalker4066 This took me about 4-5 hours cause of filming. But it should be between 2-3

@Joanespik The silicone I used is much better than the cheap crap they try to make you buy just cause Audi says so. The car is still working great on the street and on the track with no issues. That silicone I used will last him longer than the cheap shit car dealers be using. Only experience will give you such knowledge of it not what books say.

@@RCincorporated You can say what you want, but using that is a bad practice only used by a bushleague mechanics. Sorry, someone had to say it. Cams need a very precise tolerances.

@@joanespik The books are not always right. Like i said keep following guidelines that are not proven to be true. If the type you say to use is so good why did it need change with such little miles on the car? Because it’s cheap that’s why. Car manufactures will never use the best stuff on their car unless your spending 100k and up on a car. Otherwise you get the cheapest stuff on it. That’s why they make aftermarket performance parts because original is not always the best.

@adrienpearson9901 I’ll make a vid this weekend on this and posted.

Please do!! a driving clip would be sick @@RCincorporated

@@adrienpearson9901 Working on something with a buddy of mine to see if I can get a clip of his M3 along with mine

@baranybrotwitch Those are actually the originals stock coil packs that came with the car.

No they are not

@speedybeanie22 RPM is more tougher on the plastic, but I noticed the stock ones broke less on me for some reason.

Soak all plastics in wd40, especially rpm stuff😂

@surfside75 Will soften the plastic 🤣

@@surfside75 Thanks for the tip buddy I will definitely try this. That’s issue with RPM they are not as flexible as the stock so they break. I will soak these bad boys today😎

@RCincorporated yeah, you get it✅️ I do this to all my bashers, and if i take it apart i will spray parts down in a big bag and just let it sit for days until I'mready to build. with Arrma mojave bumpers body mounts etc need wd40! Heck I just wd40 everything at this point🙄🤣

@allahjoseph The car is running perfect no issues what’s so ever yet. I’m going to be changing the breaks on it soon as well. I’ll make a video on when the time comes.

⁠@@RCincorporatedFIYA. highkey u got one of the best videos on this. You, Naptowntuner, E39M5Speed & GerardoSolorio1 got that heat. Keep it up Gz

WickdHDGamer I did not need to remove the high pressure fuel pump. I only loosened it enough to push it back a bit. You don’t need to remove it. Just loosen enough to push back a bit. That will give you enough clearance to tilt the valve cover into place.

@@RCincorporated yeah i just missed a bolt for the valve cover, i’m dumb

@@RCincorporatedwhat about not replacing the crush gasket you showed, is that ok?

@@Kanesgarage If your talking about the crush gasket of the high pressure fuel pump, then no. No need to replace them, I’ve used the same ones.

@johnrobert2148 Thanks for all the info. I never owned a pan car before but seen them race. Very interesting on the way they are built. I’ll definitely look into those models you mentioned. I’ll definitely try to revive these, just to have the vintage look as they are originally supposed to be.

@@RCincorporated No probs. I've been doing some restoration on my rc10LS as well.

It’s pretty straightforward not to hard just take your time doing it.

If you gutted the cats you will need new ones to control the smell. I suggest getting high flow cats from eBay for about $80 bucks. There cheap but they do narrow the smell down

Hi reneomarcosme219 Sorry about the video I’m not sure why TH-cam shorten the video as it was much longer. You don’t need to take anything apart only the little propeller you see on the video that I removed. This is just to give you better access to the middle shaft that you will see spinning inside. Technically the shaft that you will see spinning inside gathers debris and trash, and it gets stuck on the brushes that surround that shaft. So as long as you can get some electrical cleaner in there and spray the whole shaft that you see, spinning and everything around it that should help eliminate the noise. It’s just a piece of debris, causing that.

@@RCincorporated thank you! I'll buy some electrical cleaner today and try it!

@@RCincorporated sorry, but any recommendations on brand of cleaner? I saw different brands with different wording..brand "CRC QD electronic cleaner" also "Berryman Electric Motor Cleaner" and "Akfix A60 Electrical Contact Cleaner"

@@reneomarcosme219 Any should work really as long it’s to clean electronics.

😢 please finish off video or repost it.. I need to fix my clicking sound. Thank you so much

Dontkillme55 No need to worry about the timing. The timing does not move. When you remove the valve cover, the cams move up slightly. But it’s not enough to where they pop up or anything like that. They simply detain themselves from the other end. Pushing the valve cover back down is simple. You will first need to slide it in from the back end as i show in the video then you gently push down. You’ll notice you’ll be pushing the cams down as well, but it’s not a lot. As soon as you reach some thread, you can let go from pushing and start bolting down in the pattern that I show.

Not all motors are like Japanese cars whit the engine sideways. However Audi A5 models-regardless of door count-feature standard all-wheel-drive. And the engine is facing straight like a V8.

Hello @ TheLEGOEffects There was no need for the cams to be moved or messed with. Nothing with the timing was messed with. 👍🏽

Just so you know when the cover is removed, the cams move up slightly. That’s cause this type of valve cover is actually holding one side of the cams down. However when removing cover remove it slowly, the cams will come up just a bit and that it. Once you put the cover back, push down a bit s you bolt it. Hope this helps.

@@RCincorporated Awesome man, thank you for replying so quickly.

TurtleRL I got the blood at a Halloween store 1 pint to be exact

@jeffreyrue4569 Thanks for your comment bro.

@mautplank1621 I ended up using the same bolts. No issues till today car is running strong.

Car is doing great, and it rips on the track. No issues at all.

253tactown6 Yes I only use the Pre cat O2 sensors. The rear ones are useless since I got headers. The smell did leave a lot when I covered the vents in the trunk. There are two vents, one on each side. I covered them with thick sticky tape. That killed the smell big time. Adding the high flow cats helped a lot for when you have the windows down. The better quality the high flow cats, the more the smell will be eliminated.

Thanks appreciate the response👍🏼 I heard those 2 vents on the inside of the trunk the rubber on the backside deteriorates over time and let’s the exhaust smell in to the cabin ect, someone was saying that you shouldn’t cover them or else when you shut your trunk the windows of the car can shatter or in the winter the car fogs up with the windows closed,I’m not sure if that’s true or not

@@FELIPE8226M What’s up bro, as this could be true due to physics I’m sure it has happen in a very rare occasion. It takes a lot of pressure for a window to shatter. Also the seats on a car when they fold down and up, they never really seal completely they’re not airtight. so even covering those vents, the pressure will never actually really build up that high. I had my vents covered already for quite some time, and I have not came across any of those problems. I don’t slam my trunk either when I close it👌. my window doesn’t fog up like that in winter and if it does Nothing a little bit of AC and heat can’t handle. Also, the rear window has defog functions. Hope this helps

@@RCincorporated Ok sweet🤘🏽I got some really strong gorilla tape I’m gonna try. Nice E46 btw bro

So the left side trunk vent the same side as the exhaust is, one of the rubber flaps on the back of it was all the way off so I just taped the whole vent up and it’s much better now when driving

@fasialbaig5306 I got these wheels from Amazon. Here is the link for them. HobbyPark PreGlued Mounted 12mm Hex Hubs RC Truck Tires and Wheels 2.8 Tires with Foam Inserts for Traxxas Rustler Stampede Hoss 4x4 Redcat RC Monster Truck Set of 4 (128x67mm(HxW)) a.co/d/0XGK4du

@@RCincorporated Thank you so much buddy! Now that a new one is out, i'm considering cutting the sides of my Raptor and putting bigger tires as well; as well as make it wider. In your experience, does the width reduce traction roll ? Cheers man!

@@faisalbaig5306 What’s up bro. These wheels definitely prevented roll overs. They did very well when it came to bashing, jumping ramps. Also, the track that I was racing on was very aggressive, so these bigger wheels definitely help. However, I did see that they have very nice grip on asphalt, cement, carpet, etc. But when it came to the track, even though they did well on the potholes and cracks that the track has, they did not do well on grip on that type of dirt. when it came to actually race, I was bouncing a lot, which threw me out of control a lot. I think that if I would of change the oil weight to what I have now. That might be a game changer. I haven’t tried that combination yet. It will be very awesome to see the suspension work with those wheels on my currently weight oil. Otherwise, these wheels did very well on every other aspect as far as handling. Cheers 🍻 bro

@@RCincorporated man i'm following your baja rey journey :)

@@RCincorporated Thank u so much for the details! I truly appreciate it!!

Franko I can definitely try that. The track is so big. I will need someone filming as we race to follow the cars. It is a huge track but I’ll work on that for next time.

Thanks for the tip Banaenschen