Harwil Corporation
Harwil Corporation
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Harwil Flow Switch - Reed Switch in action
A close-up of a reed switch and a magnet interacting. Harwil Flow Switch Model Q-12 used in spas, pools, chemical feeders, and chillers.
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Harwil Flow Switch Testing
มุมมอง 20K8 ปีที่แล้ว
Simple testing method of Harwil Flow Switches. Also test the thermistor in some models. This switch is used by most major Pool & Spa equipment manufacturers.
Chemical Feed Controllers
มุมมอง 1.4K10 ปีที่แล้ว
Harwil has a New Line of Chemical Feed Pump Controllers
CF112 - Chemical Feed Pump Controller
มุมมอง 43511 ปีที่แล้ว
The CF112 (Black Box with Green and Orange Lights) is a Chemical Feed Pump Controller. It is designed based on our Q12 flow switch and will activate a pump when the flow of water is detected. In this demonstration, we've set up a Light and Bubble Bar to show when the Feed Pump is activated. You'll also note that on the CF112 Box, the green light will light up when flow is detected. In this case...
Emergency High Level Switch - L40
มุมมอง 42111 ปีที่แล้ว
The High Level Switch, seen here in Red, is a regular L40 that we've wired so that it will shut down the fill pump when the High Level is reached. The Red L40 will shut off the pump until the water level has reached a lower level, then it will turn the pump back on. This cycle will continue until the regular L40 Level Switches are activated and the drain pump is started again. You'll notice at ...
Level Switch (L40) with Latching Controller (LC1)
มุมมอง 37311 ปีที่แล้ว
The L40 Level Switch, as seen here in a 'Tree' configuration, will start the drain pump when the water level reaches the High Level Switch. Then, when the water level reaches the Low Level Switch, the pump will shut off. This is all achieved through our LC1 Latching Controller. *Note* The L40 Switches are the smaller switches in the foreground. NEW See our Wireless Latching Controller.
Harwil - Product Overview
มุมมอง 2.2K12 ปีที่แล้ว
Intro Harwil Corporation manufactures a variety of Flow and Level switches as well as Temperature switches and Controller packages. Manufactured in Southern California, we take pride in our products and our dedication to work with OEM Applications. Q16 The Q16 Flow Switch. Commonly used in Chiller, Heat Pump, Boiler Feed and Heat Exchange applications is a direct replacement for Dwyer, Taeko an...
Sight Glass Animation Test
มุมมอง 2.6K12 ปีที่แล้ว
Sight Glass Animation Test

ความคิดเห็น

  • @theresapalino4769
    @theresapalino4769 4 หลายเดือนก่อน

    Question, black and red wires passed. White and green are registering 8.4 on a 10k, is this ok, kindly advise

  • @willlliw1874
    @willlliw1874 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    Obrigado me ajudou aqui no Brasil...

  • @BrianThomas
    @BrianThomas 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    Can't you just use a short weather protected wire and keep the circuit closed indefinitely instead of using the sensor switch?

  • @Cashvilleamt
    @Cashvilleamt 4 ปีที่แล้ว

    Just the information I needed to know! Thank you for putting this video out so we dont have to fire the parts cannon on the issue :)

  • @rowlandcrew
    @rowlandcrew 6 ปีที่แล้ว

    Hello Harwil, your Q12 spec sheet does not identify your part number for the switch with the thermister in it. what is your part number for the unit with the thermister for the C2 flow switch?

    • @HarwilTube
      @HarwilTube 6 ปีที่แล้ว

      Most of our switches are manufactured to a companies specification. The part numbers change for each configuration. Please call us to discuss what you need. 805-988-6800

  • @tonybroomfield1301
    @tonybroomfield1301 7 ปีที่แล้ว

    how can you test them when it still in the pipe

    • @johnmilner7603
      @johnmilner7603 7 ปีที่แล้ว

      Sure as long as you remove the connector from the board then using a paper clip, press down inside the wire hole lock clip and slide the black and red wires out (middle 2). Then put a meter on it for continuity. With the pump off you should get no reading or OL and with the pump on you should get 000. If you don't then replace the sw. I would see if the sw is avail alone without the pipes cause it just screws in. I need to find one cause I know the hot tub store down the road will mark up the part, that even if they would sell it to me. You could close off the water hose with a rag and vise grips then unscrew the sw. Note: make note where the black and red wires go on the connector housing. Put a + on the connector where the red wire goes and also if you remove he flow sw, make note which way the flap of the sw is facing. A phone camera comes in handy here.