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@@Bigdame58 It's a hole saw from Fastenal for aluminum and mild steel.

@@WreckEmRacing Fuck yeah, let’s go!! Lol I was stressing. I couldn’t find them anywhere. I Appreciate the quick response too man.

🤷

These are just raw footage, unedited & not publicly listed. The proper edits will be up by tomorrow. I appreciate you stopping by the channel!

The edited videos will have the audio fixed. Those should be up by tomorrow.

Thank you for the compliments! I greatly appreciate the support !!💯👍

They scraped the arena but it had rained just before the demo.

Thank you, I appreciate the support! 👍

Gotta appreciate the hustle, though, if you're the ones in the danger ranger.

For a 91 the OEM Interchange Part Number is: 633.GM8394

You can sometimes get lucky using a vise grip pliers on those top tin clips. I've always taken the top bolts out with a manual ratchet wrench, that way seems to save the clips more than ever using a power wrench. The tin clips are a nightmare of manufacturer cost savings.

@@WreckEmRacing I appreciate the info. Getting lucky doesn't sound promising. What If I don't get lucky which odds are I won't. Not sure if there is enough room to get a Sawzall blade in there.

@@marcsmith3881 I'm assuming you don't have a cutting torch. So if the vise grip doesn't have enough grip to turn the bolt out with a wrench you can try to drill through the head of the bolt down to the shank(or close enough through to weaken it & use a chisel)

@@WreckEmRacing Damn! Sounds I will be charging a decent amount to do this job.

I used the 2x4 because it's softer than the wheel material, making it easier to get the pilot bit centered. I swapped out the centering bit for a longer one once the pilot was drilled to have a better chance to keep the hole saw centered when cutting. This is a slow process and takes patience, you may get lucky with a centered hub hole but that's a small chance if you rush the job. When I can, I use a plasma torch or oxy-acetylene.

The main official was signaling towards the teaming cars to hit each other but they weren't paying attention or just ignored him. I do agree with the lighting. I tried post-fx light changes but it made the vid very grainy.

@@WreckEmRacing Was still a good video, if you guys host again next year would say just keep an eye on who comes in together seems like a few do the same thing each year. Didn't make it to this year so was happy to see someone posted a video.

We're ever you go theres gonna be teaming it's the way derbying goes everyone's got buddies.

Yes. On the starter solenoid you can jump the ignition post to the 12V post from the battery.

@@WreckEmRacing Thanks!

One or more wires have high resistance if you're not popping fuses. You can test the ignition harness on the column between the connectors & replace just that column harness for relatively cheap.

You bet!

I can't answer the exact size off the top of my head. I know there's a bit set from Harbor Freight that covers all of the smaller fasteners for relatively cheap.

4mm

T-15 torx, or e4 inverted torx.

If the engine cranks over consistently it's more likely in your fuel or spark. Test the spark with a simple spark tester that plugs into the plug wires. Distributor cap and rotor are a likely culprit and a cheap replacement.

Yes the vehicle had spark and fuel. I could manually bypass the lock-out cylinder and get the truck to crank and start. The internal contacts of the ignition switch were not completing the start circuit.

Thanks very Much, I'll wait on the ignition to come and hold off on tearing the injectors out lol, What a mess, haha!

One more question, before ripping out the ignition, were you able to get it to crank over with the key? I stick the key in and it cranks, just wont fire.

@@MattBroquard It would start with the key but cranking was very intermittent. The column (tilt adjustable) would have to be tilted at just the right angle but after time that too didn't work.. The switch just gave up completely and wouldn't make any contact internally.

Read the title bud. Fred Flintstone would realize these aren't for road use.

I would use on the road

After wasting time with the $40 cheapos I only buy the OEM switches; they're around $100-$150.

PB Blaster and/or a torch. For the torch you should be at least using MAPP gas. I have had to cut them off and use a hammer and punch as well.

This flush was done without changing the trans filter. However it was changed later on with a full drain and fresh fluid.

Nvm @blanchae answered it haha. Thanks man

Yes, but it was very intermittent when the vehicle would start.

It would depend on the wheel, the hole saw, the drill and the battery in the drill.

Update: Worked perfectly. Had a hard time finding the hose connector myself, but the guys at the hardware store saw the picture on the video and found it right away. Make sure to keep a constant flow. Also, Realize the amount coming out is going to be really really fast if you have a good tranny pump.

A pipe fitting or air line quick connect fitting work the same, just make sure your thread pitch is correct for the vehicle.

@@WreckEmRacing oh ok thanks! I have a 01 s10. So that's why I asked you

Yes. The truck in the video is the 700R4 automatic transmission.

Wrekt'Em Racing he says it's a 5-speed manual transmission.. i have a 94 4.3 4x4 s10 auto spent 6 hours today trying to get that $&÷×*@# starter out. I'll give this a shot thank you

Chet Cross hey did you get the starter out? I actually have 2 94 s10 blazers 4.3 v6 automatics and i cant get the starter out