วีดีโอ

Mainly complexity in calibration and precision (delta like) + no heatbed (or you use a slipring, but again complexity..)

@@eroc1944neat, is there an alternative term for a version where the bed is stationary and the print head rotates around ?

​@@lattitude01 Not with an endless rotation of the printhead or you run into the same problems. A 1-arm Scara works similiar as this printer, but has a stationary bed. Check Nicholas J Seward's work here on youtube, he has multiple cool designs.

I'm still working on an optimized 5 color version, which mainly reduces the 3d printed size of the aluminium block. Active mixer is way more complex, but other than that the superior solution. Are you familiar with Daren Schwenkes active mixing hotend? I couldn't do better than that.

@@eroc1944 I was not aware but now diving into his creation. It looks like it has stopped being developed or at least the updates have stopped. I wonder if color mixing is just not worth the effort. The design challenge is one hurdle but then software is another. After all that work, if some company creates a superior inkjet version then would it have been worth it? The material mixing will still be valuable but the color mixing wouldn't have as much purpose due to the resin being higher print quality. I had a Quad fusion a long time ago and was able to modify it enough to be reliable but the lack of software to actually use the mixing.capabilities made it sort of useless. Unless I did complete color transitions or gradient prints. Still love the idea and am interested in maybe giving it a shot myself. Just been talking myself out of it for those reasons.

​@@DaneC020Advertising a full-color FDM printer is doomed to be disappointing, even if it mixes the full CMYKW spectrum you'll still have trouble putting down plastic at a very small resolution. Software is easier imho,I posted some FDM Halftone experiments to instagram/twitter which sort of work, but due to the resolution are more on the artistic side compared to inkjet. (Though inkjet+powder 3d printer look kind of disappointing as well...washed out colors, blurry edges ect.) But other than having a full color FDM printer a good start would be creating an active mixing nozzle for custom colored filaments. Not printing, but extruding on to a spool. This way you don't have to deal with retractions, pressure built up from a small nozzle or worry about the size of the purge zone so much..

This is based on an openscad script from ttsalo on thingiverse. thing:15538

@@eroc1944 many thanks 😊 I’m very interested to understand how to design it “a grosso modo” to experiment with this concept

Let me know if you run into any problems when creating custom tool paths. Blender has a lot of tools for that, even before coding, geo nodes or addons.

@eroc1944 alot of the addons ive found dont work after version about 2.6 can u recommend any for version 4? I am pretty new to blender, let alone using it as a cam generator lol. Thanks for your video it did give me much inspiration. The geometry i want to make is a sphere with hexagonal holes covering the surface. I made this in a couple programs like inventor and fusion but the slicers just cant make efficient toolpaths for it and the toolpaths affect the mechanical properties of the ball after. Basicallly trying to make a basketball that bounces like a real one using tpu tpe or similar filament. Got the idea from someone posting a model of the wilson 3d printed basketball on makerworld. Just been a nice distraction to my daily work 😀

absolutely 100% same. Did you ever figure it out? I'm where you were 3 weeks ago.

Acrylic paint, you need some viscosity for the coating effect.

This is a resin print extruding acryling paint. The heat resistant version is printed in Aluminium. This is only for testing.

@@eroc1944 Absolutely amazing design!

Anything specific you wanna know?

@@eroc1944 Im trying to use your gcode addon, to align with my Prusa i3 mk3s and in PLA material, cant seem to get the correct flow and speed!

​@@petonegroom4321 Best to open an issue on github and provide the .blend file. I'll see what I can do.

Hi, check the hackday link in the description, you can find an image of the internal geometry of the nozzle there.

@@eroc1944 thanks! sorry for being lazy 😅

note that this works slightly different, mixing hotends mostly push out the filament side by side, which results in a 'toothpaste effect' (which can be a cool look in itself, so go for it), with this nozzle, color gets evenly coated with the other color from all sides, so you get an even color blend without stripes.

@@eroc1944 if you reduce the % gradually from 100% extruder 1 to 100% extruder 2 as you have seemed to do with your design, the BTT mixer will sort of achieve similar ? Plus would a 3 way mixer produce tri coloured output if you mix 33% on 3 extruders?

@@Happy3dprinting Yes, it will look similiar (especially if the filaments are slightly transparent) and 3 extruders at the same ratio will produce a tri colored extrusion.

@@eroc1944 thank you for your help, 👍

Cartesian to polar conversion is done via postprocessing script , so not part of nozzleboss. For simple polar printer I'd probably go with Marlin or RRF.

Try to download the examples.blend and check if export works there.

@@eroc1944 your examples work but i tried making my own vase and the gcode preview showed missing parts.I'm trying to use this for clay 3d printing. what are the layer height limits? i print with a 4mm nozzle and layer height of 1.7 mm

If you create custom paths make sure that the vertex indices are in linear order. If you start with a circle primitive the vert indices are ordered, if you subdivide they become scrambled. Conver to curve and back to mesh will reorder the verts. (activate developer options and show vert indices in viewport to debug) Once your path is ordered, extrude in Z (to create polygons that can hold vertex colors for flow/speed/tool maps) and your path is ready to export.

How do I enable developer options? I was able to export Goode but when I attempt to test it. Print head is trying to print off my build area and it’s caused the steppers to skip

@@ReaLitaliano Make sure your path doesn't have negative coordinates (as on most cartesian machines,delta and polar printers are different) and isn't bigger than your printer allows. Also make sure to apply any transformation (strg+a while the path is selected/active), something you often forget when you are new to Blender.