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Great video, thanks for posting. I forgot all about the diagnostic mode.

There are some 14V, 24V and 28V versions of LED bulbs. Wonder if one of them would work if you added a resistor or something.

Hi. I love your vids. I would recommend an external mic. Keep up the great work!

C.T. = center, between the outside legs you'll have the total power. A few helpful comments, (I'm glad to see someone young interested in pinball restoration). 1. From the previous video, no solenoid plunger on any pinball machine requires lubrication. If you do lubricate it, you will create future problems with that solenoid sticking. Clean the plunger, replace the sleeve and it should operate smoothly. 2. On abating alkaline battery corrosion, iso alcohol will do absolutely nothing in stopping the corrosion. If you do not neutralize the affected area with a strong acid, sand all the areas down to bare copper, and recoat the bare copper, the corrosion WILL return and continue to eat the board. 3. Is the sound cpu an AMI brand? If so, that brand has a very high failure rate and it would be a good idea to 'shotgun' those ics if they are suspect.

Я рад за тебя!!!

Это ШЕДЕВР!!!!!

Механические автоматы для игры действительно завораживают меня.

Id recommend you add lithium double a batteries to mitigate the risk of battery leak. Acid can wick its way up wires even on remote connections. Ideal solution would be to install nvram to eliminate the need to have batteries. Also there might be some residual acid damage under some of the chips below the old battery location. Would be worth treating the board with some type of neutralizing solution to eliminate the remaining acid left on the board. Great work so far! Your content is very well made and your explanations are excellent

Nice job getting to the bottom of the problem with the search wiper. I noticed in the video that the wiper arm has a red mark on it. It's usually described in the manual where the home position is with that mark. Although I've only worked on EM pinball machine where the stepper units usually reset to that home position, not like this where it constantly turns. I only mention it because it might make troubleshooting in the future easier to diagnose. But great job working through it, finding the issue and solving it. AND taking us along for the ride. Thank you for making the videos on this machine.

What an amazing machine, well done for fixing it. A pleasure to watch.

❤ incredible I’m so excited, thank you 😮

Very interesting , thanks for the upload.

Great stuff

Great coverage of bingos in general. Thank you. However, about 36:55 you're talking about fuse ratings. The amperage rating of a fuse is the max it's designed to take which includes current spikes. So if it's supposed to be an 8A, if you have to temporarily under fuse, like a 6A, that's OK because the fuse is there for a reason. But if you over Amp, in this case going from an 8A to a 10A, maybe the fuse has less chance of blowing, but risk of fire and other issues is greater. Technically, your circuit should never draw more than 80% of max rated load so in an 8A circuit, the load should max out right around 6.4A to be on the safe side. You did great on the video, I just don't want to see anyone start their games on fire. Let's try to save all of them we can.

Very informative video. I bought one of these machines last week. Been 50 years since I saw one. Good job with the video.

Don't mean to sound like a stickler, but hopefully some help! Your "Yellow Metal Panel" is called an Apron. That broken target you super glued is a temporary fix, bashing it with a metal ball over time will cause the problem to happen again, you can buy new Targets to Solder in with Marco & other various pinball part websites. It's also just a regular Target, not a "Drop Target." Drop Targets are usually in an assembly of 3 or more, and physically "Drop" down when hit. A solenoid and assembly underneath will push the whole bank up once all Drop Targets are down during play. And be careful with Magic Eraser! Only speaking from personal experience, it can remove and destroy the Playfield art. Millwax & Novus 2 work wonders. Otherwise awesome video man, keep restoring! ✌🏼

Very good work, congrratulations.

Thanks for this video!

It’s so refreshing to see a young man who is more interested in restoring these fantastic old pinball machines rather than being glued to his cell phone. Well done Max. Keep up the good work. Geoff, Scarborough, England.

Don’t reform caps in circuit. You might exceed the voltage of other components connected. There should be a replacement cap kit available for this sound board. I rebuilt one for my father in law’s Phoenix.

I don't really have any interest in pinball machines, but I'm still fascinated by your videos. I think that's an outstanding achievement!

Max keep up the good work. You do an excellent job on explaining what you are doing and its very enjoyable to watch

I want to buy it

might consider getting a steel trash bin if you're tossing spicy pillows on the regular. not a fan of dropping fire hazards into flammable objects. fun video though.

Incredible, it looks brand new. My greatest respect!

Hello, i saw your video about ipod nano Vw edition. Do u still have that and by any chance want to sell that?

Those machines are super clean for age, most 80's machines would have so much smoke and ash debris in them. My all time favorite was the Black Knight 2000, could play that all day for a quarter and leave it with so many free games built up on it. Keep up the good work.

Wonder what the look like under blacklights?

Thank you for taking your audience through the prcess, great video!

To make the battery fit: the PCB in the cell is likely what is causing the extra thickness you describe, rather than simply "wires" as stated. Thankfully the cell is smaller in every other dimension compared to the original cell so fixing this should be easy. Remove the sticker that surrounds the battery and holds the PCB onto the cell, then fold down the PCB at the edge of the cell. Now it should fit.

I found a 3rd gen that belonged to a worker at park mgm a while ago. Had a simmilar style case and engraving just with mgm branding.

Highly informative and very professionally made video. Subbed!

I’m not an electrical engineer by any means. What would be the issue with plugging it in with bad capacitors?

I had a friend at the primary who had an iPod Nano with a Volkswagen logo on its back because the iPod came with his mother's car, a 2007 Golf

MAX, when looking at various pinball games schematics the fast & low blow fuses are often go to different circuits and voltages but what determines a circuit to either use fast blow or slow blow?

Hello, could you make a download link for the videos and other data that was on that Volvo iPod? The content seems interesting, many thanks.

how corvette guys talk about their cars

they had a Volkswagen version of the iPod mini! sold originally with the 2005 VW New Beetle in Japan... it even came with a car connection kit over AUX to cassette lol!!

the fact i drive a volvo:

@snazzy !!

The spotting disk should turn ONLY when the machine is in the spin cycle ( only few seconds ). Now for the ball, did you have all the eight balls in the trough because one less and no balls will go to the playfield , because in early machines players were cheating so they wired later machine to act this way. Thanks for the upload.

That was a mistake a lot of faults on them

DankPods wants to know your location. [Allow] [Allow]

Wait a minute, you're the US version of dankpods

It’s a Bingo. Not a Bingo pinball machine. No respectable Bingo player ever called them a pinball machine. Just saying. The later magic screen, red letter, OK and Futurity games were even way more complex.

Good luck!

I just subbed. IM OFFICIALLY YOUR 500TH SUBSCRIBER

dude this video is so underrated, you need more out of this video.

hmm

Hugh Jeffreys mentioned!!!!!! Nice video, man!!!!!