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The same deck is in the stiga, mountfield, atco brands also so your local dealer of those will have it. Get spray on Shultz (underbody seal, stone chip paint) it's what goes under cars to protect the chassis from rust. It's almost like a thick rubber paint. That can be used all over and repaint under the deck ever year or so. Best advice I can give is to to 1. Clean under the deck as often as possible and 2. Don't let grass sit on top of the deck use a power washer/air blower to clean off all loose grass when your done.

@@declanmaher8263 Many thanks Declan. 👍👍

Use the settings tag (4th from Right at the bottom of video) and you can adjust the playback speed.

Quite common for them to be stuck in place as they are held in place with a key way and dirt siezes them in place. In general a 2 jaw pullers or a good bit of persuasion with a hammer and freeing oil does it. If its bad we have in the past had to cut them off with a grinder.

@@bvsparts9207 thanks!..I get a pullers on them later,👍

@@bvsparts9207 got them off and the deck back together - all good..thanks for the video

It is this part i mean: www.kramp.com/shop-nl/nl/p/remblok--1252070001?categoryId=mmcModel-24146775

Email me a picture of what you currently have on the deck and I'll have a look in the morning info@barrowvalleyspares.ie and send you drawings of the machine also

Hi again Yannick, i had a chance to look through the video this morning to see your question. There was no brake block on this machine as it has an electromagnetic clutch (you pull a switch to turn on the blades) the older models had a manuel engage where a lever on the right hand side had to be pushed down to turn the blades on. The older system needs a brake block but the electric system doesnt. Hope this helps

@@bvsparts9207 thank you so much!

@@declanmaher6553 sent you an email :)

I'm going to assume you don't have have anything to measure the tension exactly so im going to give you a general rule of thumb we give to lads replacing it on site themselves. The belt at it closest point in the centre of the deck, should not be able to twist from vertical to horizontal by hand. Basically grab belt between your thumb and index finger and if it doesnt twist it should be fine. With this in mind, the constant slipping i dont think will be caused by tensioning issues as i assumed after the first or second time it slipped you tightened it up substantially. Check where the blade bolts onto the shaft at the bottom, there is a blade adaptor there part number 25463200, google that image so you can see it, it has 2 nipples on the bottom of that that hold the blade in place, if these are sheared off the blade itself can slip regardless of how tight the bolt is as cause the blades to hit and slip the timing. Failing that to check in order, key ways replaced on all pulleys you took off, the steel frame under the timing belt has not popped up off the mandrel housing as this keeps the top mandrels square, the 13 mm bolts under the belt tension plate have not been re-tightened after tensioning the belt (these also have to be loosened to tension the belt correctly)

Thanks for that if anything I think I have probably under tightened the belt with fear of damagin the bearings on the pulleys I am in the process of changing the boss on the blades not because of broken nipples on them but one of them when I went to undo the blade the bolt was loose so there is a lot of play on the key way so decided to replace both everything else seems OK and tight so will check belt tension again. cheers for the information.

No hassle, Best of luck and if your stuck just give us a shout

@@bvsparts9207 My belt snapped so replaced it. The new one lasted 30 minutes then snapped. When I opened up the deck the belt had frayed to bits, looked like a dead animal under there. Everything seemed fine when I put it back together but the locking pin (11 I think it is) wasn't spinning and the black plastic bushes were carved out badly like someone had taken a knife to them. Locking pin the culprit? Or the belt too tight? About to fit another belt and worried it'll happen again 😬

40.cdn.ekm.net/ekmps/shops/eb466e/images/genuine-castelgarden-toothed-timing-belt-135065600-0-fits-102cm-40-models-all-years-[3]-71-p.jpg?v=b0125011-64d1-49e2-a752-3d56f5eab238 this diagram is the same for all timing belts on the castle garden models

You will need 2x13mm spanners. There is a 2x13mm nuts and bolts where number 13 is that's acts as a tensioner which has to be loosened and more 13mm nuts under the plate that will need to be loosened along with the belt guides (no12) when it all loose it makes it easier. With the belt loose but in position to be tightened up you need to set the blades at ninety degrees to each other( think one blade at 12.30 and the other at 9.15) and then tighten the tensioner making sure the blades stay the same. Then tighten up everything else.

@@declanmaher6553 I've got a Castelgarden TC102 Declan which I have to source a new deck for and would have found your info helpful, but your link is no longer working?

@@trampster7306 sorry only seeing this now where are you located?

@@bvsparts9207 South West England Declan.

No problem a tall David glad we could help you out a bit if you get stuck at any point you can give us a shout and we will be happy to talk you through it. Also make sure to check the bearings on the pulleys. You dont see it on our video but we changed out 6 bearings altogether on this deck. Its the type of job that worth doing while you have everything apart as you dont want to have to re-do everything again in a few weeks