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Hi there. I didn't use the rabbet because of the pocket screw construction, plus I thought it might have been noticeable if I ran the rabbet the whole way on the verticals which meant doing a stop cut. Sharp chisels make fast cuts of the corners and I didn't need to be super precise on the back so I did it that way. You are right though, for the horizontals you could have put a rabbet on the whole stretch and then on the horizontals just ran it a little long top an bottom but not all the way to hide it and then assembled. Lots of ways to do projects like this and use your favorite tools :). As long as the rabbit didn't extend on the verticals to where the pocket screws went you should have no issue with the assembly.

Appreciate the response. I’m planning to start this project in December, and think I’ll try rabbiting before assembly. I personally get nervous with a chisel in my hand. lol.

Never be afraid to try - just make sure you are safe :). A sharp chisel makes quick work and is good practice as no one will ever see. You can also round over the plywood with a power sander. Good Luck and I'm sure it will look great!

You are welcome!

Great to hear! Ihop you like it.

Just used it this weekend and still works great as long as you set your expectations for what it was meant for. If you have any questions let me know. Thanks for the nice comment!

Hi Gamer, what was it that you didn't like about yours?

Hi Kevin, I don't have links but they were were from Home Depot and I think they still sell the same models.

@@SoWeBoughtaHouse Thank you I will check.

You are welcome. If you need any help let me know.

Definitely dont put a yak in the chipper. That would be really messy.

Now I just spray :) got tired of cleaning brushes with kids hanging all over me :)

Make sure to let me know what you think!

First off - love the Avatar photo is looks just like our Frenchie :). To answer your second question, I had a series of 10 videos lined up on FreeCad, but the popularity seemed to die, once Fusion 360 announced the free platform and maker platform. II should make the second video in the series and see how it does. What do you think :)

@@SoWeBoughtaHouse We have 2 frenchies and love them! I’m new to cad and have tried Sketchup but found to generate a cut list I would need to pay. I wasn’t aware that Fusion offered a free platform or what it might lack compared to a subscription. Can you import your work into cutlist optimizer from FreeCAD or the free version of Fusion? Thanks

@@kellygibson7299 Ok so I haven't actually tried it yet. I should optimize my cuts but often when building for videos, it is hard to find the time. but from Fusion you can go to Export and export the parts as a csv. You should be able to import that into cutlist optimizer. You can do a similar think in FreeCAD. Here is the link to the personal version of Fusion that is free www.autodesk.com/products/fusion-360/personal It works well for most things hobby related. I really wish they had a $10 a month version with some more features. The jump from free to $85 kind of stinks. FreeCAD will let you do almost anything though. It just takes a little patience. I'm working on a series of videos to build a home server right now, I think when I finish that up I'll revisit FreeCAD, but I'm also itching to do a video on a really cool chisel rack I built. So hard to prioritize :)

@@SoWeBoughtaHouse I appreciate the time and information. I’ll check them out 👍

Do it - It is really easy and I'm happy to answer any questions.

You bet!

Agreed, if you get the party started, the party is started :P

What was in the box.

That is a good choice. I knew I was using a small case so I went the non X route for the lower power consumption and the lower thermal properties. I was also trying to keep the cost down a bit. How are liking your build. I have had it running for three weeks now restarts and cool temps.

Hi Pete - c clamps are definitely better. When I made the video I was trying to show you don’t need all the expensive green toys you see all over TH-cam to make accurate cuts. Not that there is anything wrong with that and I own a bunch, but I want to show people they can start making with whatever they might have in the garage.

If you mean Fesstool l just have the C18 drill kit ( $6C retirement gift to myself ergonomics similar to my old Makita 9.6’s) Now Ryobi I have a crate full. The adjustable screw serves another function and that’s keeping the chop saws plumes of dust from building up against the stop and shorting your work pieces

exactly - and yes Festool's dust extraction makes it worth every penny, if you have enough pennys :)

Hey Dave - The next entry is in the works where I put in the case and test it out. I delayed the video because there was a shortage on the case I used. If you are still following along it will be a Jonsbo N4 NAS case. They are now back on Amazon and I should release the video in the next week. If you have any questions, let me know.

@@SoWeBoughtaHouse Awesome. I have the same case. I might have worked ahead a bit. I'll be interested in the routing of the main power to the motherboard. I'm not convinced I did mine correctly. Also, I need a very skinny HDMI connector, maybe I've inserted the card incorrectly.

Nope you did it right. The issue with the HDMI is a complaint I have with the case, That metal tab interferes with where the port is on the that card. I used a DVI to HDMI converter to get around it - and once the server was set up, I don't use a connected monitor. As for the cabling you likely did it it right. The cables were tight. I opted for getting Corsair's premium cables (which are longer) for the ATX power and sata power, but you could also get an extension to make it easier. The power supply is awesome but it just barely fits the case making it difficult but not impossible to wire those 2.5" bays. The case is good, but like any build cabling is the devil in the details problem, especially when working in such a small form factor. My opinion so far though is it was worth it.

Hi Mike - It is up to you and I did this using only Box store available materials to make it simple for the diyer. This is what I used, but I encourage you to go down and play with the molding and lattice to customize the look. It can be a lot of fun. Well for wood dorks like me it is anyway. www.homedepot.com/p/Woodgrain-Millwork-WM-267-1-4-in-x-1-5-16-in-x-96-in-Solid-Pine-Lattice-Moulding-10004466/206178822

All Good points Jeffrey, this is a construction trick for cutting things like studs, etc. you can actually draw a story stick on the board and just clamp as needed. If you are worried about warping you can use MDF instead of wood, and if if you are really crazy like me, check out the video where I show how to use aluminum extrusions. Happy Building!

It was fun to open. People like mystery, but would have been a better special is some boxes came with something really good. In this case, it just is what is, very basic marginally useful stuff.

Hi Blinket, sorry I was slow on this as I had to fold it up and make some space. If it is standing upright with the fences and guard stowed and blade retracted, it is approximately 36" high, 23" deep and 21" wide. It is hard to measure all the protrusions, but that is pretty close, If you need a more specific measurement because you are. thinking on building something for it, let me know. I'm happy to get it for you.

@@SoWeBoughtaHouse Thanks so much! I highly appreciate it!

anytime!

I think that is what it excels at. The quick cleanups. i'm in a similar situation where I have two trees on my property, but the neighbors often only do one cleanup so everything blows over to me. This helps to keepo that manageable if I don't let it build up.

First off, your a Mets fan or a Met for all I know, but that makes your standing with me top notch since I already know you have a high IQ and aptitude to do anything. Something all Mets fans have in common :). Corners are not really hard as almost everything is the same, but there a couple of extra steps. 1. When you install the top plates, Miter them in the corner. It looks nicer than but joining them. 2. To keep your corners looking nice and so they line up perfectly, you need to put some alignment joinery in. This can be a domino, but for the rest of us without one like me, I use two dowels put in with a self centering dowel jig, There are expensive jigs and cheap ones less than $50, but you can also make your own easily. you just need the hole to be in the same spot on both sides. Another option is to use a biscuit. Wen ,makes one that is really cheap. Here is my review of it. th-cam.com/video/8TmsBYj4Vu0/w-d-xo.html. Once you do choose which one, go ahead and cut them, but don't glue the joint. This is just to hold them in line cosmetically and by not gluing you leave room for the wood to expand. If you are painting the covers you can use a high stretch caulk to seal the seam if you don't like it, but honestly it will be barely noticeable. 3. The rails and styles are the same as in the video except in the corner. In the corner, you will but the two end styles together to form an L, so make sure you cut one larger my the width of the material so the revealed part on both sides is the same. For example, if you want 4 inch styles at the ends and the material thickness is 3/4 cut one 4 inches and the other at 4.75. When you put they together there will be 4 inches going in both directions from the seem. You can use the alignment joinery trick here as well, but honestly the friction hold works just fine to keep them in place generally. another step you could take is to put a pocket hole on the backside on the corner joint and after it all assembled just put in the screw to pull it tight. just place the pocket hole is a place where the radiator fins won't get in the way so you can fit an angle screw adapter and bit through the slot to get at the screw if you fo this route. This might seem complicated but it really isn't. Of course if you have any questions I'm here to help you with your project. Have a great week and happy building! and GO METS! Ken

Good morning. It can get a little sticky as it heats up but essentially you are destroying the bond. Once it releases it is done and won’t make a bond again like hot glue would. If you want to re-glue the surface you’ll need to try and get the remaining glue off as best you can and apply new glue and let it cure again.

@@SoWeBoughtaHouse melted apart an old saya using this method and it worked brilliantly

Ao glad it worked for you!

Thanks Gary! I use a 1/2 inch gap from the studs for most rooms. The drywall will cover most of it and the trim will cover the rest. For a really big room or if you are continuing floors between room use 3/4 as the expansion will compound across the run. If you keep 1/2 to 3/4 you should be fine with common wood flooring species and have no issue covers the gap with the drywall and trim.

Thank you sir, keep up the great work! Will be laying 160sf room with boarder soon. Your vid helped a lot.

@@gary4738 Thanks Gary, Don't hesitate to ask if you have questions. Take your time and get that starter row straight :)

Hi Jay. I leave the original on for two reasons. Well three if you count they are a pain to remove. The first is the old ones act as a support to hook the new ones on too and hold them in place. The most important reason though is that metal back acts as a reflector preventing the heat from being absorbed into the drywall and helps improves the efficiency of the system. Hope that helps.

I think is does what it is designed for which is quick cleanups. This is not for bagging a full fall cleanup if you let it go. Ouse it to clear the driveway and neaten up the front of the house and am pretty happy with it. At least at the price tag around 100.

Smartt Hubby. I'm already recording the final configuration and it looks like it will be nice. Ask the hubby if he has any ideas on what I should run it.

Glad I could make you laugh and that you didn’t choke :) if you have any questions, let me know.

I did look at the official Incra instructions and it's saying that you need 10 inches between the miter slot and the sides of the table. I think your saw, like mine, doesn't have that much. But it looks like it still works pretty well?

@@stevemcirvin Hi Steve - This is what I did. I read that spec as needing 10 inches right of the blade. On my DeWalt it has a material support built into the fence. I use that to support the sled. The key is to make sure you still have an inch of space between the edge of the sled and the actual fence. If the fence touches the sled you could get a kickback if it pinches. Right or wrong that is how I use mine and it has worked for my needs, At least until they finally send my SawStop! Safety first though - only do cuts you feel comfortable with and never trust anyone on the internet :) Unless that internet person has a Sawstop then just do whatever they say :P

The fix takes about 60 seconds to do on site, learning how to do something often takes longer.

Glad it helped!

Sure - Are you looking to buy the Router table kit or a specific stand. The stands come in lots of sizes and I don't want to give you the wrong numbers. If you are having this cut for you I'd give yourself a little wiggle room. If you are going to cut the pieces yourself, I'll get you the dimensions of mine, but know there might be a little variation and you might need to trim to get a nice fit.

I hope it worked for you!

Hi - the last 30 second of the video had pans across all the finished product. Right after the logo pops up for second at the 10 minute ish mark. Hope that helps and have a great weekend!

If you are using a hardwood that is probably fine. The issue would be more does the wood warp a little without the spacer to hold it straight. maybe put some decorative mesh in the holes to help keep it true.

I did a long one without a wood center support. To help offset the weight, I connected the long piece to the top plate using an L bracket. It’s inside and difficult to see. And if someone looks that deep into my baseboard, I don’t want them in my house 😂

@@PadillaKids Great job. The reality is probably need to worry more about twisting than sagging since it sits on top of the original radiator top. Properly dried hardwood would mitigate that.

Before I give my answer, I would say if you are really worried confirm with the local fire department ... But baseboard heating with water is old tech and designed to be safe, the water flowing through the baseboards is less than 200 degrees. For comparison paper combusts at 450 degrees. (By the way so will you) These types of heating systems need to be safe with thing like drapes, kids and there toys toys, pets, fabric furniture, etc coming in contact with them. Wood would take several hours at 400-500 degrees to ignite. These are oven temperatures. That said, if you have electric baseboard heat, you likely want to stay away from this. As for efficiency, you need a way for air to come in at the floor and exit the top after passing through the fins, A completely open or metal mesh front would be fine. The key is airflow. Some people think the heat radiates of the the metal, but it actually causes an airflow where cold air on the floor near the radiator heats up and starts to rise. As the hot air rises it is replaced with cooler air, causing a circular convection current heating the room. The paint itself once dried probably has a resistance to somewhere north of 250 degrees. You need to remember the walls touching the same area are painted and the copper pipes with the hottest water pass though the wood, joists and wall cavities to get around the house. The hottest temperatures are the pipes that come right off the boiler. I hope that helps.

@@SoWeBoughtaHouse Thanks a lot, yes, this is very helpful. I have some baseboard heaters in a space where I would like to install built-in floor to ceiling bookcases, and I'm trying to find out how best to build around them/integrate them into the design of a "library" wall. From what you're saying that shouldn't be a problem if I leave enough space for the air to circulate. Many thanks, great food for thought!

I'd probably raise the bookshelves up and use a false bottom on it to make sure I had room to service the radiator and clean it. You can also probably post on a heating forum to see what the recommended clearance is for air flow.

@@SoWeBoughtaHouse Awesome, thanks for these great ideas!

you are very welcome!

Hopefully a good wow and not a wow WTF :)

I do - Here is what use. shopnationstore.com/products/dewalt-dws779-780-miter-saw-dust-collection I didn't want to build something big because I want the store to remain portable and Travis at Shop Nation did tons of R&D on this and honestly for the cost I couldn't come close if I made something myself and had to model the 3D parts. Here is a short I made showing it in action. th-cam.com/users/shortsnqIjbSohPeA It is not perfect, but it is. the perfect compromise. Also if you want a laugh take a look at this video, where I tried to include all the feedback from this one into one single build. th-cam.com/video/37S2bLIqKNM/w-d-xo.html If you have any question on anything, let me know.

Not lazy, just didn't get to that yet :) If you want a laugh, watch this it shows what was there originally and why I needed the door in the first place. The fun things you find after you buy a house. But hey, that is why I created to channel, to share misery and help others learn from my mistakes :). It is much cheaper than therapy.

@@SoWeBoughtaHouse just ribbing you a bit after the comment about paint on the hinges. 😇🤣

lol it is like fingernails on a chalkboard when I see it.

You are so welcome! Let me know if you have any questions.

Hi David, sorry for scaring you and I'm happy I was able to help. I used to wear button downs mainly for the sake of filming when it was cold out in the garage. I'm actually really far from the balde as this is a 12 inch saw, but it doesn't look that way on the video and don't want to set a bad example. Since then I have tried to make sure I only wear short sleeves when actually cutting. Safety is super important and I want to make sure that comes through so I will be more conscious. Thanks for your comment.

Happy I could help Jen. I made a second miter saw video which is a little tongue in cheek on how I upgraded this based on user feedback. There are some practical upgrades in it though that might give you some ideas on how you can make this your own without spending a ton of money.

Send me a photo at swbah.ken@gmail.com. First though would be to just cut them out with a flush trim saw.

Everyone is a little different, but you need to make sure the top plate covers the front panel which is 3/4" and still leaves room to not touch the radiator fins. If that doesn't make sense let me know and I can talk you through measuring to make sure you have enough room.

I found a (cheaper) and faster way to make this work. I used the same top width you recommended and instead, used 5inch sheets of shiplap as the face since it’s only .67 inches deep. They’re not nearly as pretty as yours, but it actually came out nice. I mean, anything is better than the metal ones we had before. Thanks for all your help.

@@PadillaKids Sounds great. I made this video to show a basic technique and always hoped people would use it as a jumping off point to make their own designs. So happy you tried it and I'm sure it looks awesome!

Glad I could help. For the size and weight I don't think you can beat it. There are some slightly larger models but in my opinion are great as portable saws. Eventually I will upgrade to a cabinet saw, but I would never get rid of this for the portability.

Thank you!