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Based on the info this guy put together, sounds like 95 had some differences. chevygmcvans.com/viewtopic.php?t=11064 I don't what the "electrical differences" he mentions are, but I'm guessing that's where the swap problems will be if there are any. I have minimal transmission experience but to engage that band you also need the electric solenoid and the hydraulic servo to work which may be worth looking into as well

@PracticallyStock yes I'm gonna drop pan and test those 2 items also. I would think if solenoid was bad it would toss a code, but there's no codes.

You may be right, there is a pressure switch that tells the computer pressure was applied. May be able to pull the servo and look at the band and push on it with something to see if it grabs the drum

@PracticallyStock wait minute, if the valves of the solenoid aren't sealing for some reason that might throw no code but technically the solenoid. Right?

I don't know enough about the transmission codes but there is plate with a series of buttons that get depressed when fluid pressure hits them. That would be the same pressure that's actuating shifts. I assume the computer would throw a code if it was expecting a certain switch to close but didn't see it happen. I would also assume it would throw a code for mismatched rpm and speed from the failed shift, but I didn't get one in my case. Sorry, I just don't know enough about them

Thanks so much for saying something! I had fun making it and thought it turned out pretty good

This one has some miles on it, but I am hoping it's still got a lot of life left in it. I know the car it came out of drove decent. ZFDoc is a great site and where I got the info I needed to set up a custom hydraulic clutch. I think this transmission is going to really make the car. It has a 3:90 rear gear which will make 1-4 quick and fun, but in 6th it should be cruising about 2100rpm at 80mph

Thanks! I used it everywhere. I'm not sure I'd recommend POR15 though. I'm hoping it holds up good but I'm not impressed with its durability. Once it gets chipped it's pretty easy to keep peeling it off. I expect I'll have to paint the jacking spots in something else because they are getting pretty chipped up from the safety jacks

The update is.... that the problem eventually came back. I'm really interested in the fact that you seem to have the exact same issue I do (or hopefully did). I eventually realized that the power wire on my switch was also melted out of the plastic from heat. I replaced the plug itself and so far the issue has not come back, but I will not be surprised if it does since I don't fully understand what is happening. The only parts I have not changed is the harness itself, the blow motor, and fan resistor. I did redo the ground for the blower and relay long before the issues started. My theory is that the factory plug gained resistance overtime until there was so much resistance the blower relay couldn't get enough current to latch. That resistance is the only way I can rationalize so much heat in the plug without popping the fuse. I wouldn't think the blower would care if you wired battery voltage/current to it, but I haven't seen a fan set up like these before. My old GMC bypasses the resistors on high and gives it everything. This last video is where I replaced the plug and go over the issues: th-cam.com/video/0m8gCY4mwqY/w-d-xo.html Best of luck! Let me know if you come up with a different fix. I'll make another video if the problem comes back on mine

In this case it was just built up sludge/varnish on the lower lifter body. The lifters looked perfect to me, still had a crown and a nice swirl wear pattern

Ordinarily they should slide out freely. The issue is on an engine that has a lot of miles and/or poor maintenance, a varnish like sludge builds up on the exposed portion of the lifter body that protrudes below the lifter bore. You have to apply enough force to scrape the build up off the lifter as it passes through the lifter bore. The last few in this engine had enough build up that I could not work them out by hand even with the vise-grips. Applying torque to the screw drive provided enough force to get them out with much less effort on my part

Sorry, I didn't think there would be any interest in that so I did it off camera. I think it had a lot of stop-leak in it since it had bad freeze plugs. I turned it upside down with the heads off and just kept flowing water through it and cleaning out the passages in the deck surface as they clogged. It had to go to the machine shop so they did a more thorough cleaning of it

Not sure what you're asking. The flare helps prevent the pressure from slipping the hose off as the rubber shrinks. The pressure drop through the hose should be negligible. The hose it rated for this application

This comment is the only one that went through. Sorry, I don't have any info on the seal that was installed. A Genuine GM or any name brand seal should be a good bet

@@PracticallyStock Thanks for taking time to reply.. Yeah so many options on amazon just confusing... I will try this one FEL-PRO BS 40739 I'm getting close to the end .. so I'll come back and say if it fit or not.. I did get to the stage of looking at that stupid little hole that clogs and mine was heh..

The car is far from being on the road so I won't have any info soon lol Hopefully it holds up good

Might check with a mechanical gauge if it seems like a problem. It sounds like something weird is going on, hopefully nothing with the motor though

@PracticallyStock me too everyone been tryin to talk me into an ls swap, even if I could afford it, I know way more power, but that ls ain't gona get 25mpg like the ole 4.3 lol

An oring is not used, just the press fit

@@PracticallyStock ok, so, to clarify. There is no O ring for pre LS? AKA Generation II SBC does not have an O ring for the pick up tube? I appreciate the response more than you can imagine. Dropping an oil pan for one seal is totally a downer.

I don't know for certain that Gen2 has the the same setup as Gen1 but the Gen1 pumps I have seen have no seal at the pickup tube. The tube is pressfit into the pump housing and that is what seals it. The pump doesn't generally have a gasket between it and the block either, just 2 machined surfaces. If you have a pickup tube that is bolted on, then you may have an oring but I have never messing with one of those. A parts diagram would give you the best answer

Not sure what you're talking about. It doesn't have an issue building up to the 60psi I set it to. It takes awhile to get there because it's only 2.9 cfm

I don't have anything official. The pedal should be pushed back up by the clutch forcing fluid back to the master cylinder. Since it's not, it means the hydraulic system is not actuating the clutch. You could try bleeding it and seeing if it works, then see if it leaks. If it gives you trouble or if you're worried about reliability, replacing master and slave may be a better option

@@PracticallyStockthank you for the info. Put a battery in it and turned the key, 280 cranks but no start. Put in gas but still can’t get it to start from crank. Wanted to do the starting fluid technique but I’m hesitant on doing it.

@@gavineaton1019 Well it may have no spark or fuel. Checking for spark is quick and you should at least hear the fuel pump prime when the key is turned on. We used some carb cleaner to help it get going the first start

@@PracticallyStock (update) removed hose and sprayed starting fluid in and engine came to life but didn’t maintain idle because of gas. I put in a gallon but I may have a leak on the gas tank. But I’m happy it started after 10 years of sitting.

Nice! I am not super familiar with that fuel injection but you may be able to take the fuel line from the filter to the fuel rail off at the rail. Then put the hose end in a bottle and cycle the key to see if gas is getting to the motor. Hopefully if it's a fuel issue it's just the pump, the pump is mounted under the car and not that difficult to get to. I'd make sure the pump is getting voltage before replacing it. Probably should replace the rubber fuel hoses if you have it apart. I used generic fuel injection rated hose on mine. This site has the factory service manual for each year, you may need it if you really have to tear into the car www.xenonzcar.com/s130/fsm.php

The rims are from an early 2000's S10. Tires are General Grabber 30x9.50 R15. The tires are slightly too big. If I make a turn and hit a bump, I can hear the tire catch against the wheel well. I need to add some clearance to fix that issue

@ dang ok idk if those will fit on my 89 s15 sierra classic 2wd

Glad it helped!

Great to hear!

I disagree. - Yes a cheap piece of foam is factory, but I wanted better filtration to help it last longer. The foam is not adequate in my opinion. - The paper element is designed for minimal pressure drop on an engine that moves several times more air than this compressor. I didn't measure the difference in recharge time between this filter and no filter, but it appears to be negligible. - I think you are misunderstanding what air is cooling the everything. The air filter filters the air entering the compressor. This air does not really cool anything. The majority of the heat in the compressor is coming from compressing air, if there is less air to compress due to a restrictive air filter, the compressor will run cooler. This should also result in less load on the motor and cause it to run cooler as well. Making constant vacuum takes less energy than compressing air. Large rotary screw compressors use this concept when they unload by cutting off air to the compressor while continuing to run the motor. The whole unit will cool down because it's hardly doing any work. Regardless, the motor pulls the same air no matter what filter is installed because the air filter has nothing to do with the air that cools the compressor and motor. There is a fan in the plastic housing that is unobstructed and pulls ambient air across the compressor and motor which also has its own fan.

I did not, I really put some force on it and couldn't get it broke loose without the fear of breaking something. I don't know what it's doing exactly, but I think it is holding the piece seen at 12:16 that has the 8 grooves in it. I'm guessing if you take it apart you'll find the piece with the 8 grooves is also loose. Maybe then you can gently slot something into the grooves without scoring the side of the housing and tighten the nut? There may be some tabs to grab on the steering shaft side but I didn't seen any in the video. You may be in uncharted territory lol

Alright, I see what you mean . I really don't want to take it apart I just want to get it sealed , and do you think it's necessary for the threads to go in that deep ? There's like 2 millimetres of threat sticking out past the nut on yours but on mine I've got just a little less than a centimetre . After a long painful mission, I eventually got it to stop leaking blood (ATF) but then there was a bit of dirty grey fluid that continued, not entirely sure what it was but I've got to test it to make sure it's sealed properly So many people says "you're in uncharted waters" if I need some advice on this car 😂 So thanks for the bit of help

You might want to keep an eye out for a spare just in case. Maybe keep an eye on the fluid too to see if the grey shows up there. Whatever that nut is holding may be trashed and the grey fluid may be from it eating itself. I'm thinking it came loose for some reason and wore something out causing you to have to run the nut farther than normal. Glad I was able to give you something useful, there isn't a ton of info on these which was a big reason I did the video

If you're talking about it when it was broken, I don't have a clip for that because I just wanted to get it home. If you're talking about it after it was fixed, 39:10

The original problem was what I thought was a leak from within the bellhousing so I pulled the pump to replace the o-ring that goes around the pump and the seal that goes around the torque converter. When I did that I accidentally knocked the 2-4 shift band loose which meant it couldnt use second or fourth gear. The trans never slipped, it just would not shift out of first. I got it home by reving it out in manual 1st, lifting off the gas and shifting to manual 3rd before gently getting back on the gas to keep it in 3rd. Does that answer your question?

@ yeah it does I watch the video twice and got my answer mine lost all gears except 1st and reverse my guess is that I didn’t install the pump seal on correctly and I had low line pressure cause the gears felt soft

Theoretically yeah. Once you lock the manual steering column to just one shift lever, it's basically the same as an automatic column. The hard part is getting the linkage or cable set up. The only complaint I have had with this is not having an indicator. I got in the habit of counting the clicks to figure out what gear it's in, but I have accidentally shut it off without it being in park

They certainty did not make it easy to work around

That's weird, maybe the sensor? Or if it is actually low, maybe the bypass in the pump?

@@PracticallyStock I was think I would replace the sensor first since it's less than 20 bucks, just not sure how hard it is change, I've worked on cars my whole life, but my dad was a master mechanic, so I had no fear, till cancer took him in 2013, I just haven't had the confidence in myself for major jobs since, makes a difference when you can make a phone call, and can have someone walk you through anything, the truck I'm driving was his 1992 gmc k1500 slx heavy half WT 4.3 5 spd ext cab 4x4 with the black on red gmc classic paint, my dad looked for years to find that particular truck, and although he cared nothing for sports, he was super excited that it came from John Elway chevrolet lol Oh and the 1992 truck has 180,000 miles on it lol

I have the 1992 Service Manual for S-10 Models. It's the factory service manual bought through GM number ST-369-92. It has a lot of info in it but the wiring info is marginal, I think there was another book for that

I'm using a 92 305 for test fitting everything. The actual motor will have an early 90's 350 block. The 1986 and newer SBC1 (includes the L31) and the SBC2 LT1 (what the ZFs6-40 came with) can use the same transmission. The 1985 and older engines cannot use the same flywheel due to the different rear main. This video where I put the clutch together shows the different rear main seals th-cam.com/video/oemJP3za1yI/w-d-xo.html

No, it had a dead spot in the throttle where the car ran really bad but it would always run normal if I kept the throttle below or past that problematic point. The issue was the TPS had a bad spot where it was telling the computer the TBI was at 0% throttle when it was really about 15%. That tricked the computer into cutting back fuel and making the engine lean and miss

@@PracticallyStock we built a garage in 59 sold it in 17 . My brother died about a year after we retired so I went back to work for the people that bought it. It just wasn’t the same. It’s hard to take orders when you know it’s not going to help so I retired for good about a year later.

Understandable. I hope your retirement is going well!

Might have to find someone on marketplace who has a parts truck you can get them from. Or maybe try making a set. Sucks that they are not easier to find

@@PracticallyStock Yeah, my ex-fiancée used to call me "Bracket Man". Looks like it's going to be "Bracket Man" to the rescue. "Once you resort to customization - EVERYTHING becomes EASY." No biggie, it's already highly customized - narrowed and tubbed, fuel cell in the bed, twin big block radiators in the nose, and the tilt fiberglass nose (converted to lift-off). Unfortunately, there's not much room for brackets around the side tanks given the way the tubes come out the ends of the tanks. Some thick aluminum sheet metal, some quality time with the aviation shears, a few holes and a couple of bends, and I should be good to go. I can use the screws from the "with AC" brackets.

I though I got it from my service manual, but I can't find the info now. I think I bought 3 quarts of synthetic 75w-90 but I won't swear to it. If the old fluid looks really gross like mine did, you may be better off going with the cheapest cheap oil for a few quick oil changes just to flush it

@@PracticallyStock Manual states 80w-90 which is what I ordered.

The bog/violent missing right off idle was being caused by a faulty TPS. The TPS had a dead spot and would trick the computer into cutting fuel and freak the whole system out. The video shows how I tested the new and old TPS

@@PracticallyStock , mine was doing the same thing,. was the wires to the ecm under the dash. trouble shooting it without a manual is funn. thanks for the video.

Thanks for letting me know it helped, made my day. Glad you got it going again

Thanks! Yeah I can't believe how these rust. I'm going to put what will hopefully be a fairly stout 350 chevy in it. The transmission is a 6 speed manual from a 94 corvette so it should cruise at 75 about 2200rpm even with the 3.90 rear gear. I have a video on locating the trans and engine already out but the video for the motor is probably still a month or two away. I hope you and your grandson have a good time working on your Z!

@PracticallyStock wow your z is going to be a beast I had a 89 corvette with the multi-port fuel injection and it was very fast . That is awesome. I can't wait to see your z with finish.

Nice, hopefully yours is less rusty! Thanks for the feedback

Good chance that's what happened

We were just getting the car going for the owner. They were trying to get rid of stuff, I don't remember for certain what it sold for but I want to say 8k???

I forget how long it had been sitting but I'm pretty sure it was less than 10 years so we weren't concerned about bad gas. Usually I give it a smell and that hasn't led me astray yet lol

Congrats on being mostly done! I hope to be there someday lol. I'm not aware of any specific gauge sets for Z's like the one you mention. I bought the universal green bar graph set from Intellitronix which included the gauges, black acrylic, and most of the hardware. This project was a bit of an undertaking and there are definitely improvements that can be made over how I did it. The fitment and gauge centering is also not fantastic. If the files and everything are good, I can try printing another set. I'll let you know how that goes

​@@PracticallyStock how has that gone? 🤔

​@@PracticallyStockdid you get it printed yet boss man? 🤔

Sorry, I didn't get a notification you had replied. Shoot me an email at dreamteampro.e@gmail.com and I'll give you some more info on the prints to make sure they are what you want. I do have a set printed

@dragonxxx285 Sorry, I didn't get a notification you had replied. Shoot me an email at dreamteampro.e@gmail.com and I'll give you some more info on the prints to make sure they are what you want. I do have a set printed

Nice. Only issue I've had is if the pump is not used for a long time (numerous months), something dries in the pump and prevents it from turning. I took it out and tapped it on the ground which knocked out the dried stuff and that fixed it

I don't know but I doubt it, we got this car going as a favor to someone and never heard about the car after it got picked up

​@@PracticallyStockcheck pliz ....

I would if I could, I don't have a way of reaching the owner

@@alendovzan6768 I have one for sale. Almost complete. Parts are all included. Just needs to be completed. 1 Kilometer on the odometer. Central Valley California

The one I had was bad so I replaced it. I think they are specific as the new one is labeled R134. I bought mine through advance auto and it blew out after 9 months, they warrantied it so I get to see how long this new one lasts