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Yes, it will work fine. Polishing the domed area is tricky, but perfectly possible. We have done a number this way. Use Farecla Premium G3.

@@hifiaddiction6684 non ho una lucidatrice, con un trapano a batteria può andare bene lo stesso? C è rischio di rovinarlo ? Che materiale è policarbonato o plexiglass?

@@simonecionco1565 No, don't use a drill unless you can slow the speed right down. I'm not sure what the material is for the SL1200, but it polishes up well.

Very similar to headlight polishing, but easier because the acrylic tends to be softer than used on headlight covers.

Hello. No, I would not use T-Cut. It's not the right product. I use Farecla Premium G3 which is a car bodyshop paint cutting/polishing compound.

Thank you. Hope you get a great result.

Hi there, the only product we use is Farecla G3 Premium abrasive compound, a car paint cutting/polishing compound. Hope that helps.

No es así si se toma su tiempo y reduce la velocidad de su pulidora. Hemos pulido unos 50 párpados de esta manera con excelentes resultados. El secreto es tomarse su tiempo. Buena suerte

Farecla Premium G3

It's just a cheap car polisher. Doesn't do anything fancy, just adjustable speed.

Hi there, replacement brackets for the B2 are readily available on eBay from a number of sources. For the 3300 it appears your are looking for used parts, which are again available on eBay but seemingly very expensive.

@@hifiaddiction6684 Thanks

Heat is obviously something you need to be careful with. Keep feeling the lid with your hand. It can get warm without issue, but it must not get hot to touch. Good luck

Hi there, I'm afraid my basic polisher does not have a speed indication, just slower or faster! Just try a slow speed first and work from there. Feel the acrylic regularly with you hand. It can get quite warm, but should not be really hot.

Hi there, I'm just showing people how we do it and the fact that the results are pretty amazing. Not telling you this is the only way of doing it and not trying to sell anything. In reality the polisher needn't be expensive and certainly has the potential to cost less than buying a new replacement (if one is available for that particular deck). Just sharing the technique we use.

I use a Sealey ER1700P polisher. Not sure of the speed as the adjuster doesn't tell you!

Hi John, Secret to success is using only light to moderate pressure, slow speed and don't allow the lid surface to get too hot. It will certainly get warm, but shouldn't be hot. Good luck and I hope you get a great result.

@@hifiaddiction6684 Thanks for the tip.

@@hifiaddiction6684 Hi... I can scratch my Technics 1200 Gold easily. If I wanna sand it.... can start with 2000 or 3000.... but how can finish? Can I use wax or something to give it more bright like those sprays for car detailing? Thanks

@@hifiaddiction6684 I have polished mine and somehow I get a foggy dust cover is there any way I can make look glossy

@@catry707 Hi there, If you use the car polishing compound (Farecla Premium G3) then the finish should be fantastic and effectively like new. But I suppose you could also use a wax, but I've not found the need to try that.

I have them. They polish very very well but dont take out major scratchs. Only the little ones

Thanks for the heads up. I'll look into that.

Hi there, the polish is

@@hifiaddiction6684 Way to troll Ms. Wright. 😡

I haven't played around too much with different pads. I must admit, most of the lids have been done with the pad that originally came with the polisher! If you able to feel the pad before buying, then one that is softer probably makes sense. I'm using a harder one currently, and it still works fine, but perhaps you have to be more careful not to overheat the acrylic. The key to success is to take your time. The results are startlingly brilliant. It will make your deck look like new.

Hi Ken, can you not see that some of the footage is speeded up, and do you really want to watch me spend over 30 minutes with the polisher? This is not a 'fake', this is how I clean every turntable lid on every turntable I sell. Just did an LP12 lid yesterday. It takes certainly 30 minutes and often longer, but the results are great.

@@hifiaddiction6684 quit lying man, it was clearly less than 5 mins.

@@kencur9690 Your in the wrong here. Why would someone making a tutorial want to admit their method takes a long 30 minutes to complete? Because it does.... I've done about 10 Technics covers similar to this one. I use a hand-drill with several grades of foam pad and finish up with a wool buffing wheel. Covers that have deep scratches, I sand first. It takes a while to polish out the sanding marks. I've had a few covers take a couple hours to get to a point I was happy with. If you've refinished one yourself you'd understand.

@@garretts91 it’s you’re.

And by the way I used a grinder as he said and now I have even deeper scratches!

Yes, I think will be much more difficult with a smaller machine. Keep feeling the lid with the palm of your hand... warm is OK, hot is not! If the lid has gone clouding, then you may be able to polish this out. If it has distorted then I fear it's had it. Go slow and don't rush. Also, not too hevy with the pressure.

@@hifiaddiction6684 if you have to sand it, wet sand start with 1000 grit. By hand

@@stevefredson3301 Agreed, or even finer. I tend to find 2000 grit does enough

Fantastic. So pleased it worked well for you. Amazing the difference it makes to the look of a deck.