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Good question! I didn't have to replace the cable. I was just looking around a little bit for one though. These look like they are not readily available anymore. I did go to the Partzilla.com site and drilled down in their online parts catalog to find a part number that I think is correct: 5L9-F6311-01-00. I took that part number and searched with Google and I found a couple sites suggesting they had "one left in stock". It might require contacting a couple of them to be certain. Check out a few of those sites and see what you can find. If you don't have luck finding one, I can send you some links if that would be helpful. TH-cam comments don't seem to be a great fit for link sharing, so I just started a small Facebook Group so I could share links and images with people. Feel free to connect there if you need some help finding your parts. I'll help if I can! facebook.com/groups/344083854669577/permalink/366928479051781/

Great information. Thank you

Hey! Do you mean, what other bikes have this same carburetor? I haven't done much research on these carbs, but I can do a little looking around. I found a couple links suggesting the Mikuni part number is 3KA-E4101-20. I can do a little further looking around too!

Interesting point. I haven't investigated a lot of the documentation on the Frontiers. Some of these things are a bit odd. :). Thanks for the kind words! I think it helps to understand how these little things can add up to play a bigger role.

@@TheAlysWorld Hey, yes I did sell the 4Runner already. It turned out so nice, it was hard to let it go. I appreciate your interest in it! 👍

@@Technically-Matthow much?!? God dam

@@TheClassicPaul Thanks for the kind comment. I sold it recently. :). The new owner is pleased. It was a rad rig! Well cared for! 👍

Hey, yes, I have more coming! I don't see a lot of content on the RT180 either. I'm working on several videos now. Hopefully have two more of them out in the next few weeks! Thanks so much for watching them!

You’re welcome! Yeah, helps having this info available. I wish I had this info when I was doing this job! 🤓

Have you made any progress on the vg33?​@@Technically-Matt

@@sonnymcgee5871 Yes, I have! I'm just slow getting the content released. Next up on the VG33E are some odd challenges with removing freeze plugs and choosing new ones. Then, I have a series on the main bearings for this engine, and some oddities I learned found in choosing a main bearing. I hope to have starting to release in about 2 weeks!

Thanks Joe! I appreciate the kind comments! 👍

Thanks! Yeah, it's a solid rig! It should be a good runner for a long time yet!

Ah. Interesting. Can you import the VG33E from the Nissan Elgrand? I think those vehicles could be imported to Australia in the past.

Hey! Thanks for the comment! And thanks for watching the channel! Yeah, I have another one that should be ready in the next couple days (takes far longer to edit these than I anticipated), and several more coming over the next couple months. I'm looking for a solution to make it easier to bore out the cooling channel. I've started a discussion about that, with another viewer, and I created a Facebook group as a platform to conduct that conversation. You are welcome to join us there if you would like. Here is a link to that group. facebook.com/groups/344083854669577/permalink/366928479051781/ Thanks again for watching the video and commenting. I appreciate your contribution!

@@Technically-Matt it's very helpful. I know small block chevys very well but fell in love with the nissan pathfinder after getting one slung the timing belt and decided to up grade to a little more power not much more but just a little bit and you videos are jam packed of info highly underated channel brother

@@FloridaMan493Thanks for the kind remarks! Yeah, I'm hopeful this information will help others too. Yeah, I have a video coming as well, where I talk about installing camshafts from the late 80's 300ZX (Z31). This should give it a little bit more power (I haven't put in on the dyno yet to confirm how much). If you are going that deep on your motor, this is something easy to consider doing. I haven't marketed my channel yet, since I wanted to have a fair more videos completed before I did that, so people would have more to look at. Hopefully it will pick up a bit after that. Thanks for being an early viewer!!!

Yeah! That could be contributing to the issue. :). This seems to be a small oil capacity for the size of the engine. :)

Yep. Exactly the issue. As an owner of a 2000 Xterra, now with 292K miles, I've changed the oil 58 times at 5K intervals from day one. It always reminds me how small the oil capacity is on these engines.

@@nosurfenougheddie Right?! When I tell people how much oil this engine holds, they are shocked! I typically change the oil a little more frequently, just to try and keep the viscosity high enough during the usable life of the oil. I also think the improvements to the cooling-ability of the engine block is helping. 👍

Hey! They can be a bit stuck. You will need to remove the snap rings first though. I've tried removing just one snap ring from one side, and then trying to push the pin to that side, but I was never able to get that to work. I've always had to remove the second snap ring also. And, yes...you can absolutely use heat. A lot of times it makes it much much easier. I use a small pan of boiling water to heat the piston on the rod when I'm removing pistons from the rods (if the pistons have been installed for a very long time). This always helps. I know I have a video clip of that process, that I will be putting into a video soon, but perhaps I can share that with you ahead of time if you want to see that. Also, I hear you about machine work. I've struggled in this category too. Finding a good machine shop it tough these days. It seems to be a dying art form too. Not many young people interested in learning the skill I suppose.

Good question!! I'm not sure I'm qualified to compare against the CR's, as I haven't had one in a long time, but I think the CR125 and CR250 both might have have more power than the RT180. I think the RT is considered more of a "play" bike, and I enjoyed riding it. It was quite comfortable. I might better like putting around on the RT, compared to the CR series, but I would probably need to give it more power. I weigh about 160 and it felt a bit underpowered. Of course, I like a lot of horsepower when I can get it. I think the RT would be a good bike to putt around on, and for some light trail riding. I think it is a good choice for that. I like the self-oiling feature too! Makes it easy to add fuel and go! :)

Ah, yeah, sounds like oil in the combustion chamber. Might not be catastrophic though. I’d do sone additional testing. My engine came from a vehicle called an Elgrand. They didn’t sell it here in the US though. It was in better condition that typical used US engine though…by far. 👍

Hey! I received a notice that you posted another comment, but I couldn't find it. The TH-cam platform doesn't seem to be very good for having back and forth conversation. I just created a Facebook group that seems to be a better platform for chatting. Feel free to post a message there and we can chat back and for there if you like. 👍facebook.com/groups/344083854669577

Hi! Yes, Part 2 is coming!! Thank you for your comment!!! 👍

Yeah, it's really had to say. I'm not sure if there is a good short term way to evaluate this. There is such a variety of other issues that can arise when using outside machine shops to help with fitting new aftermarket internal engine parts, and aftermarket parts in general, that anything can go wrong. Having said that, these trucks deserve a chance to live on. The VG33E motor appears to be a pretty decent motor, and I think these modifications should enhance its longevity and overall performance.

Yeah, it was really bad! I have another video coming out soon, showing the extensive repair and resealing we did on that tank!

Yeah. They are a well make bike!

Yeah, I was actually kind shocked the little plastic veterinary syringes were that effective in performing that test. :)

Yeah, that is a tough one to manage that issue. I actually ended up selling it without repairing that fully. I don't have a lot of experience with body & paint yet, and I felt like it was going to look worse.

Funny! I don't know, actually. It just felt appropriate! :)

Right?! I prefer my milkshakes in a glass with vanilla ice cream. 😛

Interesting. I can't find the resource I read that I learned about the truck beds being managed separately for some reason, but that resource didn't include the reason for why they did that. It could have been a tariff issue. I wonder if I can dig up that info up some where?

Yeah, sadly, my experience with Nissan corporate was not pleasant. I didn't raise concern with them on this particular issue, but I struggled to work with them on standard recalls, so imagine bringing up this issue would not be received well by Nissan.

Nissan may have known about it. I have another video coming out soon, that shows a Technical Service Bulletin (TSB), discussing a molybdenum coating they put on certain pistons at the factory, I think due to cylinders being a bit tight and operating too hot.

Yeah! Funny! Yeah, I can see people bragging about that. I felt really bad for the folks I bought the silver Xterra from. They paid a lot for it, and after their first oil change, it developed a rod knock (spun a bearing). After seeing the underside of the valve cover, I have since never purchased a motor without requiring the seller to remove the righthand side valve cover and sending me pictures.

Nope. It was dead. I ended up replacing the fuel pump with another one. Sadly, it was mean to be a temporary replacement (using one of my higher volume pumps from my MR2), and that pump ended up completely destroyed by rust from the ethanol in the fuel (I put way more fuel in the tank than I could use in a year and half, driving it around the shop property). :). I had to replace it a second time. :)

Nice! Yeah, I have done that now with some of the other doors I have too, without tearing into the doors. I'm going to try that on another vehicle I'm working on now, but I did have the best results (increased operational speed) when changing the motor/regulator. In a pinch though, the grease is pretty good. I will try a silicon spray instead and see what my results are. Thanks for sharing that!

Right?! Hopefully, this is something that can be avoided. If you aren't the original owner of your vehicle (most of us are not), you can visually inspect the engine under the valve cover without a lot of difficulty. If you have a 1st generation Xterra or Frontier with the VG33E or VG33ER engine, like the one in this video, you can remove the righthand-side valve cover without a lot of difficulty and see what it looks like under there. I'm often shocked how bad some of them look, but this one is the worst I've ever seen. :)

Hey! Thanks for subscribing!! I'll have to dig up the receipts to be accurate, but drilling out the center cooling channel (done at a larger heavy industry machine shop) was about $75. I think that machinist since retired though, so I will have to find another solution for that - for another one - and I will expect to pay a bit more now. The rest of the machine work was about $180 to bore/hone the cylinders. Resurfacing the block deck was about $120. Cleaning is probably the most expensive part of the operation. Simple hot tank washing costs about $60, but f you also want to use the thermal cleaning process to bake the block and finish with a steel abrading process, it costs a bit more. I'll have to call and find out what I pay for that. It leaves the blocks soooo clean, and ready for fresh paint, but the preparation for that was a bit of work for me. I'm getting ready to post another video about getting the oil gallery plugs out so you can safely put the block in the steel abrading machine (I refer to it as the shot blaster in the video). I ended up having the machine shop help me remove a couple plugs the first time around. I had broken several drill bits trying to drill holes so I could get special stainless steel screws into the plugs, so I could yank the plugs out with a slide hammer. :). I'll update these notes when I determine that additional cost for the thermal cleaning oven and the steel abrading process. 👍

Hey! Generally, you want to remove all the spark plugs from all of the cylinders. Then, you will typically disable the the EFI and ignition system so that fuel injectors don't inject fuel and the ignition system doesn't fire the spark plugs, while you are performing the test. Then, install the tester gauge and hose into one cylinder, by screwing it into the spare plug hole. Ensure there is no stored pressure in the gauge, from a previous test, before you begin the test. Hold the gas pedal to the floor, when you perform the test, so that you prevent a vacuum condition from developing in the system while you performing the test. Generally, I allow the starter to turn over about 10-12 times (you can determine the number of revolutions audibly - listen for the repeating pattern of the sound). If you have a helper to watch the test gauge, you can stop cranking the starter when the needle on the gauge stops increasing in pressure. Record your compression test results from that cylinder. Then, repeat the process for each cylinder. Make sure to relieve the pressure in the tester gauge before each test on each cylinder. Hope that helps!

@@Technically-Matt Perfect Thank You

@@user-nw7kf6nl2y yeah! For sure!! 👍

Thanks! I did, actually! I found a very cool buyer for it and we became friends from that sale now. :). These are such great trucks! Now, I'm working on the next one. Hoping to get another video out in the next couple days! 👍

Hey! Thanks so much for the detailed reply! Yeah, I was shocked when I saw what was inside that channel! I feel your pain about "feeling" guilty if you don't address that with a replacement block. I had that same feeling. And actually, the cost to have a machine shop do that drilling was relatively cheap. I think they charged me $75 per block. I did give them a block to "test" their setup on, before having them drill out the two I am rebuilding. In fact, they did mess up the freeze plug hole at the back of the block, on one of my good blocks (and had to repair it by drilling that out to the next larger size). The trick is finding a machine shop that has the machines to do it. This is a heavy industries machine shop, not an automotive machine shop. Sadly, he recently decided to retire so I'll have to find another one for future builds. Or, perhaps I need to devise a way to do this at home. I think that might be a bit tough, but I haven't really looked into it yet. I'll do a little research into other machine shops in my area and see if I can find someone who has the confidence to do it. If so, perhaps I can give you more detail on the type of shops most likely to have the machine to do this (there is likely a name for this type of machine that did this). It was like a drill press, but it was horizontal. They set the block sitting up, and then drilled it horizontally. I also believe the 3rd block I did, I had them reduce the drill bit size to 7/8", down from 1", for better results. I'll keep you in the loop! Thanks again for your comment?! I really appreciate it!!

Yah i been busy when i found the time and im gonna attempt to do this at home! saw a drill press for sale locally on a want ad listing. paid 75 bucks. ive exhausted machine shops in the frozen north michgian and the only one is always busy. they have a 2 month lead in wait time for more serious things that are not just a basic hot tanking clean up. two motnth wait for them to put together a bare block. So i found a Silver & Demming 3 point flute drill bit, i went with a 1 inch size. it might come this saturday, 11/11 or 11/13 and reading what your saying about better results go with a 7/8ths i might have to make a return and not even open the package so they cant say its used. also on ebay i found 1 foot long half inch drill bit holder extensions made of forged steel. they look pretty strong. i have to modify them to fit snug and not have any out of round spin when they are tested on the Drill press, the one i found is a 1/3 HP craftsman 5 speed and already have a plane how i want to operate it. and secure the block horizontally so its a steady plunge bore. its a 5 speed press, slowest is 640, next up is 1100ish, next is 1700ish then 2300, then 3100. for cast iron/iron in general the chart suggests 1100rpms. from what i already know about drilling into metal and only done small projects, the key is to not build up TOO Much heat or dull the bit too fast. talkd to a few people that are curious but are not sure how they feel and dont want to seem my hopes are are saying just go slow, dont apply too much pressure, let the bits blades do the work and always keep a steady spray of a lubricant. i have a 1 gallon jug of WD40 and gonna figure out something off the shelf to apply a good articulated fast steady drip feed and a catch basin. if i think of anything else i'll let you know... I DO WONDER. whats gonna happen or what was happening with the shop you used when they used a 1 inch bit, what kind of results did they have or was it too close for comfort removing actually inside block structure and removing more then just the castings that dont belong? Also man im soo soo happy finding this video and new it was a matter of time someone else out there was going to have. i even once considered. ive never made a video or just recorded myself talking on a webcam for other people to see . ALSO i would not doubt Chrysler has done the same level of neglect with some of their engines and cooling problems

@@FoxBourne-g7q Thanks again for the reply! Interesting! Nice work, considering doing this at home. Perhaps I should try it also. I really do need two more blocks. :). I have another Xterra I think would make someone a good hunting rig and a recent purchase that has a SC conversion. Both need a new engine and I can't bring myself to NOT do the cooling passage cleanup either. Good work on studying the proper bit and speed for cast iron. Yes, definitely want to avoid heat generation. I did keep things well lubricated when I was hand porting the channel, after the drilling. Funny though...when I drilled holes into the block for relocating the knock sensor (I'll be releasing a video on this too), it was so soft I didn't use any lubricant and it didn't generate any heat. Kinda weird. Those holes produced larger chips when it was drilled. I'm not yet an expert on metal work either, so I'm not sure what is happening here. If I remember right, the choice to go down to 7/8" was to avoid encroaching the underside of the top of the block so much, where the freeze plugs go. I don't remember for sure if I changed to 7/8" on both of the two final blocks I ended up with or not. I can look back and see if I can determine for sure or not. It's probably splitting hairs on the size. I don't think you would have an issue with the full 1" though. Do you have another block you can test it with? Actually, I can look at the blocks I cut in half, and get a few pictures of what that full 1" one looks like. I'm sure both of those blocks were done at a full 1". Also, what length bit did you find? I know the shop here went half way through each side and met in the middle. I'm not sure why they couldn't get all the way through on one side. Maybe the 2' bit was still not long enough, or the fixture it was in prevented it from getting all the way through. I'd love to see how you plan to setup the press to drill horizontally. Maybe you can send me a couple pics of what you are thinking. Or, shoot a short video on it. :). Cool that you thought about making a video on this topic. It just takes a little time getting used to talking to a camera. :)

@@Technically-Matt I"ll be in touch for sure! the bit i orderd that might come tomorrow or monday has about a 1 inch maximum cutter area. its shapped a bit differently then a spiral drill bit. from what i was looking up this past week untill i came across this video where bits that could do the job that costed around 400 dollars. i might of already mentioned that come to think of it. this one was 30 bucks and if you searched something similar to ebay or what not look for this string: "1" Countersink 1" Reamer 3 Flute Cobalt M42 82° Drill Hog" and the extensions i found that should work when you modifiy the short part of the shaft, not the insert tip to accept a 1/2" drill bit, use: Century Drill & Tool 38113 Ship Auger Extention,1/2 In. Shank,12In.. i only found these things in 1 foot lengths. i bought two and i might remove 6 inches of it. i forget how long the block is from end to end. but one measurement i kind of remebmer off hand was 15ish inches. i just needed that little extra bit to go all the way through. and i wanna step the lenth in incurrments and add as i need. id have boughtem more and looked harder for shorter once of the same type. i think they where around 15 bucks each. maybe 20

@@FoxBourne-g7q Ok. I'll look a bit deeper into the bits. I do remember the shop telling me the drill bits were multi-hundred dollar bits. I just looked up those bits...I;d like to see what you are thinking of doing to modify them, to get them all the way through the block. I just created a FB page for sharing pics and other info. I don't think you can post pics here in these comment areas. Maybe try posting on my new FB group called "Technically Matt". Try this link here and see if this works...facebook.com/groups/344083854669577

Yeah, Funny! That was an interesting idea from Nissan! I'm getting ready to release a whole series on the issue these motors have. I had to cut the engines in half, right down the middle, to see WTF the issues were! :). Watch out for those coming...starting in a couple days!

Thanks! Fun project. It was really my introduction to carburetors! :)

Sorry, I thought I responded to this. :). Yeah, but they all his wasp buddies would attack me in force! :)

@@Technically-Matt no problem. i just thought it would be funny if you stepped on it or any bug for that matter i know it's not what your video was about but a suggestion if you come across any creepy crawly or flying bugger lol

@@sean9404Oh, funny! Yeah, I kinda like the creepy crawlies, but sometimes the little flying ones get to me. :). Ha! Thanks for the great comment!! 👍

@@Technically-Matt ah gotcha lol. well if you ever get the chance to step on one i'll be the first to watch it

@@sean9404 Funny!! Ok. 🤪

Nice! Thanks man!! Yeah, it's a pretty sweet bike! I've not seen a lot of them around. Thanks for subscribing! And with notifications! Thanks!!! I'm just getting my channel started. I'm having some fun with it. I have some pretty cool projects. What's the first order of business on on your bike? Does it run already?!

@@Technically-Matt well it drove in a circle when I picked it up, the oil pump isn't doing well, so I did a bypass, which apparently was common back in the day, now I have it running for 3-5 seconds and it shuts off, I have a new spark plug and carb arriving in a week hopefully that keeps it running, also really want to clean out the exhaust , im really just wanting to cruise it around the country side here,

​@@zubstaaHmmm...Does it "sputter out", or does it appear to just "shut down"? I haven't tested it, but I wonder if it shuts down when it detects low oil in the reservoir, or if you have a different issue, causing it to not stay running. I'd love to see a couple pics of it. I'm trying to see if I can setup a system here or on my FB page or something, where you could post some pics of your bike. I also have a few more videos coming on mine. 👍

@@Technically-Matt i will make a video and post about it, on the weekend when I get the parts and head back up north to work on it

@@Technically-Matt and your right about the oil shut off, it was dieing much sooner until I filled up the reservoir and plugged the line, now I get it running but the carb float appears stuck, and I assume its just a mess inside the carb , throttle cable sticks so I have to learn how to fix that from top to bottom, the top end was rebuilt a year ago, I don't know about the lower section, ill keep you updated, let me know how yours goes too, looking forward to your next video, not much hands on content involving rt180s its mainly people just riding them on TH-cam or talking about what they want to do

Thanks! Will do!

Thanks so much!! Glad you enjoy it!! 👍

The car dolly looks like an u haul reject. Very nice.

Thank you!!

Yeah. For sure! I was shocked how slow the windows were, and knew there had a to a reasonable fix for them!