วีดีโอ

Great video. I learned a lot. Would’ve like to see how you got the old one off, or got the fluid out. Thanks.

For anybody looking to do this, you can get VERY cheaply get USB powered network switches. Having just snagged two $299 Echomap 74xsv from West Marine (crazy sale), I just bought a 3 port on Amazon for seven bucks, and plugged it into an SAE 12v to USB phone charger I already had on hand. Plugged in my LiveScope black box (the OG, from my icefishing rig) and it works a treat. For what it is worth, cables don't seem to matter; I tried one crossover cable and one regular old cat6 cable, and both seem to work great.

So I'm going to spend 2-3k on 2 graphs, 1500 on live scope, 3500 on a trolling motor but when I see 249.00 for the switch and a 100.00 for some cables, that's going to be the deal breaker? Don't get me wrong this is a great tutorial and looks like a fun little DIY project but I feel like if you're going to make this kind of investment, just bite the bullet and do it right. The last thing you want is to blow up an expensive piece of equipment and have the manufacturer deny you warranty because you wanted to save 200.00 on a 8k spend, lol.

Thanks. It is even cheaper now. Did you have to leave the cap off after adding fluid to prime pump?

You are smart I was thinking about this and you showed me it is possible thank you

This is an amazing DIY project, thanks so much for sharing. I wonder if it’s possible to do the same for that $1k Garmin switch device that connects to you Garmin panel to control bilge pumps, lights, horns..etc?

I would think slip would go down and slow speed unless you don't have it high enough at low speeds. IMO

This is BS that for that money they can't mold the FRP to the proper shape.

Netgear gigabit switches use 12v. Probably need to stabilise the voltage though so you probably need a voltage stabiliser anyway

Are you sure you need crossover cables? These are only required usually if there is no switch. Most switches detect if crossover is required and do the required business anyway... I note a comment further down stating crossovers were not required...

Not a bad video demo for the nerdy fisherman. Just update your Ethernet switch for a shielded model as it’s a requirement for Garmin to reduce noise and to turn Garmin devices on/off. The original Garmin equipment is also bonded to the negative to eliminate ground loops and doesn’t void your warranty. Nothing wrong with making cables but I’d shy away from home built switches if you have a lot invested. You can absolutely save money doing this but you need to use a shielded switch to gain full functionality out of Garmin. Cat5e shielded is all you need too if that’s cheaper. 👍👍

Is all functions working with a standard switch? Such as power on the radar from the mfd?

I got this tp link and it doesn’t work , I do have the gls10 on own power and that’s it , any ideas I can try?

Just did this with the 12v/8 port and no crossover cables and works just fine.

Does this unit also work for ps22 transducer

Are you sure that the cables need to be crossover? I don't understand why they couldn't be a standard A or B straight through if you're using a normal switch. I wonder if they are really supposed to be straight through cables and that little switch supported MDI/MIDX detection. I need to test this...

Thanks for this video!

Man you just saved my night, i already have a 93sv with just live scope and tonight bought a 93sv with the gt56uhd transducer just to realize i needed a hub. Me being a computer guy this is an easy fix what you have outlined. Thank you so much!!!

I noticed that you said it’s cross connected which end is Side A configuration & which end does side B configuration go to (I.e, Side A- Garmin unit, Side B-Network Switch )

I have a Cougar Marine made boat the Genesis model, with the identical plate on my motor. My hole shot is fantastic, really compacts the water around the prop from the tunnel. I highly recommend them to everyone I meet.

So as a fellow flatbottom boat owner, I struggle to keep the nose up in snotty conditions. Does this help? I also notice turning fast i get alot of cavitation. I dont want to drill my lower unit ether but this might be a little overkill. I like the concept so maybe doing something custom but similar if i get your feedback. Do you happen to have side by side comparisons of before and after installation and the benefits?

Thanks for sharing, I bought NETGEAR GS 308 8 PORT Gigabit Ethernet Switch. 12vdc@ .5amps Output. Just cut off the AC transducer. Then Add an inline fuse to your battery connection. Again thanks for sharing and saving money also.👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻🎣🎣

I can't imagine paying 300+ for a product that isnt pre cut to fit specific model outboards.

Why do you think you got so much more prop slip? I would have guessed you would get less slip with that huge cav plate helping to keep water packed around the prop...

Do you know if a sonar-less fishfinder requires the sonar-ed fishfinder to be powered on to access that sonar when networked together?

How many of the garmin network cable connectors would I need for 2 echo map 93sv UHD and livescope to be networked?

Can you just use a waterproof outdoor ethernet switch?

This is great! I just got two units which are the 93sv uhd and also a livescope setup. When I knew I had to buy another expensive item to have them network i was upset. I'm going to try this. Thanks for helping man.

Do you have a connection diagram you can share? I see 3 purple cat7 cables connected to the switch. I know the Livescope has 1 coming in (black), 1 for each of 2 screens but not sure what the 3rd is for.

Cavitation plate? there is no such thing

junk. oz hydrofoil is actually aluminum like your outboard, is color matched to all brands, and is specifically sized for your model. and most importantly the oz hydrofoil actually gets properly fastened to the cavitation plate. this is not something i would want on my outboard, your asking to take out your prop and drive gears when this pos lets go..anything that is held on by a marine epoxy like sikkaflex or 3m is 100 percent going to let go, read the forums online.

I have the same setup, except with no buck converter. I used a 12v network switch (not 5 volt) and didn't use the AC adaptor, just wired it to the battery. I realize you used it to go from 24v system, but your screens are wired off a 12V battery anyway so why not use that & save on the converter? Plus a network switch uses very little power. Nice tutorial BTW it will help lots of people save some money.

Great information, thanks for sharing, you encouraged me to give it a try. I just received my order from amazon and are ready to get started. You shared that you cut the block from the power cord of the network switch and plug the ends into the out put side of the converter but ware did the wires come from that you pluged into the input side of the converter?

I took it out again to test it with my prop which is now 3x14x21 Suzuki which was originally a 23 pitch prop. I hit 40.8 mph at 6150 yesterday with 2 people on board and a full tank of gas. Holeshot was still great although I didn't time it.

Great video, thank you for sharing. How long have you been using it? What type of battery did you connect?

This is a pretty cool idea and came out nice - thanks for sharing!

So did you cut the ends off each bought cable and re tip with shown diagram ..?

Thank you for creating the video on our Cavitation Plate! We really appreciate. Cougar Marine USA

So that voltage step down box also converts dc to ac? I thought the network box was looking for AC? Yes, I know nothing about electricity. I thought it was needing 110v of AC?

I was thinking back about this build wanted to let everyone know about the ethernet cables. Making the cables "waterproof" is the most difficult part of the whole job because its difficult to physically fit the cat 7 cable through the waterproof connector and the plug end. But by going with those cat 7 cable I found it provided a lot of the things Garmin indicated their wires have including, the shielding, drain wire, and a UV/water resistant coating. If you've never made ethernet cables make sure to straighten out the twisted pairs to make fitting them into the plug easier and be sure none of the wires move on you before you crimp the plug onto the wire otherwise you'll have to cut it off and start again. Like I said it can be tough but it is still very doable. I had a wire slip on me when crimping them and I've made many ethernet cables before, so don't get discouraged.

Thanks! I'm not getting scammed on these already overpriced fishing electronics

Sorry I had a hard time adding a link in the video so here's the link in case you need to replace your reservoir. amzn.to/3GyRobZ