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On sale for $12 hmmmm lol

Man you have pretty bad control with that iron. Also, man, you got a bunch of TMI info in your video, slowing it down.

too much talk bitches

Great video. I have difficulty in soldering the wires onto the LED PCB. I was wondering what wattage soldering iron you use?

Hey boss, I’m in law enforcement and still use my streamlight sl20x halogen. Terralux use to make a drop in 600 lumen led conversion but no longer make it. There is little to no info on the interwebs on how to make a powerful and efficient conversion with the sl20x chassis. I love this light and it’s been with me for years. Can’t you make do a build on this? I’m sure there are others out there like me.

thanks

Good tutorial. What was the purpose of making this 3led mod? Do you like the result or the original S2+ was better? Yes you need to master your soldering skills)

Very nice !

So which one is better 2mm wick or 21 awg wire (9A)

Using the bypass can increase the amperage, but not the voltage.

Folks watching this to learn, soldering works much better if you clean, flux, and tin the soldering iron tip before you start soldering, and again as needed if you do enough soldering that the tip is no longer shiny.

For anyone new to soldering, soldering irons work extremely very much better with clean and freshly tinned tips. I spent years being careless about that. I had inconsistent results until someone told me about the importance. So if you don't solder much, and decide to do a build, do yourself a favor and clean and tin the iron tip first.

I want to mod one to use a Red LED. Is there any directly compatible red LED I could use ? Already modded one with IR. Thanks.

I've had the MF01 for quite a few years now. I use it infrequently - sometimes not for months and I notice that after three to four months, the illuminated control button goes black and the four cells discharge down to just a few volts each. In contrast the illuminated control button on my BLF Q8 (uses the four of the same 18650 cells), which also is infrequently used - will remain illuminated and the flashlight works normally for significantly more then a year. I have read that the problem is drain from the the illuminated contol button. I find that hard to believe as the button on the Q8 is brighter then on the MF01. I think I either received a defective unit, or there was a power off drain problem with the MF01. I've read the MF01 button illumination can be turned off, but can't remember how and can't find the instructions that came with the MF01. Any MF01 users out there see this problem, or know how to shut off the button light? Any comments on differences bewteen the S and X versions of the MF01 and the original? Thanks! Pete

Bad soldering!

how much inprovement?

I wonder about the spring. In normal use, passing current through that spring should alter the spring resistance. My guess is it would increase resistance. The copper braid should make resistance more stable. Since the copper braid is in 'parallel' with the spring, resistance should actually be lower. How much brighter was the light and how much longer did the batteries last?

my 3$ 18650 light broke today coz the plastic caming switch at the bottom got a tiny bit bent from me pushing the button at a weird angle.... not sure this will help me now but would of helped me get to this point in dissasembly darn.

NICE INSTRUCTIVE VIDEO

Now he has ended up with a blob of solder contacting the battery instead of the gold plating on the spring. The overall resistance has probably increased, defeating the intention of the mod.

Can you post components links list please?

Will this make a good weapon light?

i've been trying to use this mic for streaming on twitch and it will pick up everything except my voice, i tried recording something regularly and it will pick up my voice, but on twitch it is just static with my voice occasionally breaking through. does anyone know what the issue is?

I’ve got a couple older olight protected 14500 cells, 650mah iirc and they only light they’ll work in, due to lenght mostly, is my old sipik sk68. I’m generally not that crazy about the aa size format anyway.. although I do like my fwaa and I have a get micro on its way. Recent Ali express/lumintop sale. Id already ordered the gt nano and mini in brass so it was a “why not?” Kind of thing.. although the micro is aluminum. I couldn’t find the brass option and the copper was more than I felt like spending. I could be wrong but I feel like the micro is most likely to be Resold or gifted.. I generally prefer 18650 for the extra runtime for a small bump in size, unless the light is extra tiny like the nano.. but I kind of consider them to be in a more novelty or light use class anyway.

thanks to your video i was able to repair my terminal point .. appreciate alot man

does stirring in a closed beaker as opposed to an open one restrict air flow and prevents a vortex from forming? i mean a vortex would speed up the mixing process by a lot, if i am not wrong... thanks for the video brother

Is it possible to do this on a Bushnell red dot sight?

Will the same parts fit the convoy S21A?

What user interface does it use for osram?

I've seen some of the worst soldering advice in the comment section here. The reason the solder didn't melt was because the tip wasn't tinned. Add a tiny bit of rosin or flux core solder to the tip of the iron before you go to desolder, and it will pop right off. The additional solder acts like thermal paste and transfers the heat of the iron to the cold solder more efficiently.

Great video. Thanks for sharing!

good step to step following video. Thx

>I'm Back!!! crickets...

Thks

what driver wire size you been using in your c8 build ? is it 22awg or 24 ?

Where can i buy a triple led?

I have this flashlight and it's built well, bright, and all that, but it also switches modes every time you turn it on. To 1/3 of the time you turn it on to that fucking useless strobe. Ridiculous.

Does the glow gasket come in other colors?

To remove and tighten the "thing" holding in the tail piece, use a pair of small, needle nose pliers. Place each of the needle nose tips in the 2 indents on the "thing". You will have much more control of the "thing", especially when you're replacing it and need to find just the right position to find the threads and avoid cross threading. It's also easier to screw in, after you get it started, if you control both sides, rather than controlling only one side with a screw driver.

Will it charge 21700 protected cells?

I hope you post where to get those parts so we can imitate your build. Thanks for the vid!

Is it possible to double click and go back/reverse a mode?

I would like one of these lights.

1:09 - "Cheap knockoff of an Ultrafire" Well Ultrafire is a cheap knockoff, so what you have there is a cheap knockoff of a cheap knockoff lol

Good video thanks. You don't need to solder the mcb to the pill? It's just the pressure from threading it in for heat conduction?

@Whoop!

I need to replace my driver and just found this video. God bless!

I said this in your other video too, but you are misusing the thermal compound. That is a totally unnecessary amount to use. Thermal compound does not conduct heat better than a pure metal to metal contact. The purpose of it is to fill the microscopic imperfections in the surfaces to maximize the surface area contact between them. You really just want an extremely thin layer between the surfaces. You aren't necessarily hurting anything immediately by using too much, as it's thermal conductivity isn't really any worse than the metal, but over time, as the thermal compound gets old and breaks down, you will have worse heat dissipation there and will need to reapply the paste.

Nice light build. A couple things. 1. The reason you had such a hard time desoldering and soldering to that board is because the whole back of the PCB is a copper heat sink, it's soaking up all the heat from your iron. You need to really crank up the heat on your iron when you solder/desolder on something like that. 2. Thermal paste does not "help conduct the heat better", that is not what it's designed for. The purpose of it is to fill the microscopic imperfections where the two surfaces meet, so that you have as much surface area contact as possible. So you really want as little as possible on there, as the conductivity will always be better between the metal surfaces. 3. A spring bypass is pointless on this build, because the spring is already bypassed, as you noted yourself. Electricity takes the path of least resistance, and because your negative terminal is soldered directly to the pad at the tip of the spring, that's where the current will flow. In other words, in this build the spring already isn't the conductor, it's literally only there to put preload pressure on the battery, thus there is nothing to "bypass". Very nice final product, I think I'll be building one of these myself but without the diffuser.

hello, did you test the battery charger in test mode, discharge mode, refresh mode?.. how is it? can you make a video with these topics? how are these modes used?