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@@clayton203 488 35's R150F Duals, 4.7 gear in rear box

@@TheRealDuBTeK I’m interested in doing the swap, but I’m already geared for the 22r with 5.29s and 35s which is pretty strong, wonder if I would have any problems, which I could go 37 if need be, New to this 1.9, but looks as though it would be the better way nowadays, the 22r engines are getting pricey,

@@clayton203 youll be fine on 529 37s would help wit road speeds Just dont expect to run 75/80mph all day for the money 22re is about the worst bang for the buck these diesel swaps arnt cheap but totally worth the efforts 30MPG or 30PSI of boost HAHA

$20K Drive it home

You have an email to exchange numbers

@@andersonlynn3686 Let me put together another gmail for this when I get home tomorrow Not tryn to drop my daily box on youtube, too many shaders/scammers for that...

@@TheRealDuBTeK cool

@@TheRealDuBTeK I read more of your comments, do you do these swaps ? And if you do how much would it be ?

Little more to it than that 😂

^^^ Says the guy with ZERO content 😂 Typical poser, just talkn

want an AWD rabbit???

Take your time!!!! This was an 8, maybe 10 hour deal start to finish over a few days time... Im very OCD so you will notice NO rolls, folds, bumps, foam hangn out, loose strings, glue, or any other BS, Dont forget to double check everything is plugged in and functional before ya button it back up Have fun & Good luck!

You are correct, nothing quite like it.

Everythings for sale for the right price... Beaters bring 10k these days This isnt a beater Shoot me an offer

@@TheRealDuBTeK would you take and offer of 6,5k cash

@@fredyramirez7749 Add 10k and I might start to think about having a real sales conversation... $6500 You just embarrassed your name on a public forum...

@@TheRealDuBTeK lol I just thought it would be a reasonable offer to start with but okay thanks anyways!

I'm actually building a Ranger with similar drivetrain. CBEA/R150F/dual geared cases/e-locker solid axles. Had all the parts to build my old toy, but it was too rusty to carry on, and I found a newish Ranger for cheap.

1st gear in the 151 is a bit too short for road driving IMHO.. Dual cases is a must Crawler 4.7 gears in the rear case if ya wanna be a baller

@@abpsd73 What adaptor and clutch? Im swapping to 10" tacoma based parts, sick of slipping the 9-1/4 stuff Stay with yer 150 box Its better for drivability

@@TheRealDuBTeK Using the TDI Conversions/Northwest Fabworks 3.0/3.4 Aluminum adapter. Going with a 3.4 clutch and flywheel, with a 3.0 throwout bearing.

Oh and this is going into my 95 model Samurai

R150F From 3.0v6 is the best option we get in North America for gear ratios The W series is weak, The ratios suck for diesels The shifters are sloppy I use the old ACME adaptor plates, & drill them for dowels The flywheel is toyota With a welded center Then redrilled into VW crank pattern I refuse to use a spacer on the crank like the other hacks are selling...

Ported 12v Forged bottom Garrett T4 UM promaf tune Bosch 044's Siemens 870s Shes healthy

@@TheRealDuBTeK forgot my exhaust and wastegate comes out hood. And mine isn’t a street car. I wish it were😜🤣

@@TheRealDuBTeK I’m hoping mine reacts like this car 🔥💪🏼

@@TheRealDuBTeK870cc file ? Did they do that custom for you ? I thought for mk3 the biggest file was for 630cc..

​@@wtfyoguylol yea its an 870 file, couple versions did happen prior to the launch of UM as you know it, never did hit the mainstream tho.. I have a few versions of it stored, I can still flash chips on the bench, if yer local message me..

Thanks man 10 years after building it, Im still loving it Haha

Its my DIY Theirs only one individual I would trust to do mine besides me, and its sounding like hes getting out of it... The other 2 or 3 clowns that troll around the build pages are hacks, you couldnt pay me to trust my build to their work..

ALH motor AAZ "baffled pan gasket" Stamped steel pan

Looks like a stock one to me. I have a VW swap in my Toyota truck and ran the stock 4 cyl ran. Plan to upgrade to a rad from a V6 toyota soon but no problems so far

th-cam.com/video/IaiZMhjBkNo/w-d-xo.html

Its a DIY thing I made up, couldnt justify a tractor splitting stand for one clutch job.. Mostly a tapered roller bearing and some 2" UNF The rest is what was available in the bins Height and tilt are both adjustable

Couple other random clips of it on my page, I just dont run it much these days

Dang things a gem! Even a quick walk around/cold start would be awesome. Don’t see many of these

Thanks man Its been awesome over 10 years, hasnt let me down

Yes, I did, prior to disassembly, found a constant 340psi altho it was loud with gear whine when engaged Since this video, I have successfully reassembled the tractor and tested the MP system to be fully functional and much quieter

Hey man, No issues on my truck Plenty of them on other builds Check my other videos One of them is just the engine running in the truck, inside the shop and gives a good over view of my clearances

Steve Thanks for the info I have this machine back up and running and the MP does work like it should now My test port is on the PTO cover, left side of the rear housing I measured 325 psi I assume my machine was built/assembled in detroit Mi as Im in the USA

Its an additional HI/LoW, shift on the fly, range selection for all 6 conventional gears in the transmission... Some people like it Some hate it

@@TheRealDuBTeK thanks. Are there any disadvantages?

@@emredoruk35 Downhill engine braking is lost in low range, some people dont seam to understand that and assume the system is malfunctioning...

@@TheRealDuBTeK For example, can it be retrofitted to the mf 265s?

Thanks man Its been 10 years since I built it Still a load of fun every time I fire it up

Doesnt sound like its functioning correctly, id recheck the initial setup distance between the bellhousing too rocker arm when the "slop" of the pedal and associated linkage is pressed out before doing anything else, a little bit of adjustment goes a LONG way Same goes for the split yokes on the linkages, 1 turn at a time and recheck

You don't want it to engage too quickly. Probably ok. Once it engages it is ok. When you first push on the clutch foot lever does it disengage right away or not?

@@DT-abcd I yes after it goes down a few inches it disengages fine it just seems it engages close to last few inches of pedal release.

Thanks for reply.

@@leeroyexcavator9149 that is normal. Do you have a dual clutch? That is, the large disk for gear shift and the smaller one for the pto. When the pto clutch, you will find a sweet spot and it falls right in. When you push the clutch pedal all the way down and you get a thumping noise the bolts on the 3 fingers that engage or disengage the clutch protrude too far through and cutting into the rivets on the pto clutch disk. Just a little info I have experienced.

Thanks for the reply I posted this video in some repair groups I belong too as a reference to my questions Consensus says Your correct, that IS proper operation, however Im waiting on old man winter to melt off before I can test it, come on spring time!!!

I have R151F gear box, dual transfer cases and turbo-bellhousing with a tacoma clutch on a one-off billet flywheel and the acme plate in it now... Yes the mounting location should move forward or you end up with the vacuum pump hitting or super close to the firewall... >> Dont fall for any of the "kits" that requires a spacer on the crankshaft for the flywheel, its only a matter of time till is comes apart.... Do NOT solid mount the motor Do NOT use that cantilevered front mount I see some guys using, its worthless Do NOT use a prefab wiring harness, get smart and DIY it

How much did the whole swap cost you? I’ve got the 3.0 automatic and once I have a second car I want to do this for more power and better mpg

When I ran it on the road a lot, it got right around 30 if you keep your foot out of the boost.. As for wheeling It will go all weekend 12 hour long days in the woods with zero cares about fuel consumption and still have 1/4 or 1/3 in the tank

Very cool. I have a tdi that could use a rebuild at 350k but the body is pretty much shot.