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Nice playing and tribute I agree also...

Where did you find that great song? Or, did you somehow "photo/music shop" the lyrics into some other song? Like you say, that inner "wall of water" cavity must get filled before you will see water coming out of the upper relief outlet. Even then, you usually won't see much of anything coming out of there at lower RPMs, making it confusing and tricky to judge cooling system condition. You are not likely to run into the welded reverse lock again, unless you work on an actual "sail master" model, where these features will built in at the factory.

Merry Christmas to you and your family... from Greece !!!

Need parts for OMC 2HP-40HP and I have complete motors let me know.....

I realy like your videos! Thanks!

Runs very nice great garage find ...

What a gem to find for $50... Merry Christmas!

G-strings and johnsons go together like ice-cream n sprinkles,got to have it!!!lol snooky pa.😊😊😊

Merry xmas boatman that motor and hingepin looks as bad as mine was so i tore down and unfortunaly never took pics,was afraid my pin bolt would snap at wrong time and bye,bye,motor to davy jones locker,ha.sand blasted and pwder coated brackets replaced with stainless bolt. But i did end up loseing that 1"round stepped bushing that is pivot point fer safety lock.gonna try make one plus they had a 3/4bolt into the hole of the transom clamp screws so i rethreaded hole ok,havent found proper size to replace?have any extras .i bought one from scamazon it was too thin maybe 3/8size.had a hell of time getting the rusty hinge pin out from brackets they used mild steel bolt n dissimilar metals crust formed freezing in place had to cut then press out from inside which wasnt easy!!oh the struggles,but its a johnson so worth it.anyhow hope the new yr.is brite n smiley for you n your family.let me know about the screw bolt clamp,snooky pa.😊😊😊😊

Awesome work. I never worked on that part of a motor. Looks very meticulous. All the best to you in the New Year as well.

after i reassembled my 9.9 i was lost as to why it bogged down under load!! thank god I took the video of my carb rebuild. I FORGOT TO PUT THAT JET BACK IN! lol the same one you were cleaning!

Never know what damage other people do to these outboards. Too bad that you went to all that extra work changing the primary coil when it was both plugs failing which is unusual, but nice to have some new parts on it. Another good video.

Nice old motor she runs pretty good after finally getting some fuel and damn good for settling 30 years. She's just about mint Great deal on all three of those motors. Great video stay warm Glenn see you on the next one.👍🏻

Well, hard to say. I'm not convinced that thermostat is stuck closed, would have to heat it up in water to determine if it is working. These engines are a pain, because there is no overboard indicator hose, making it tough to evaluate cooling. I did see some water coming out of those six relief holes about the AV plate, and like you say, some of the water comes out of the prop. It is rare to see water coming out of the large exhaust relief under the powerhead except at high RPM in gear. Sometimes you will see some fine spray out of that relief when the thermostat opens and the inner exhaust housing cavity finally fills with water. It's pretty cold out, so I'm not too surprised that the thermostat did not open. Like you say, upper water tube grommet problems were not an issue for the early models like this one, so I feel confident in saying that is not an issue. But, the early ones like this had an aluminum impeller housing with a SS liner for the impeller. This was a nice thought from engineering, but the damn salt water gets between the aluminum and SS (dissimilar metal corrosion) crushing the liner out into the impeller cavity. This puts more strain on the impeller and usually causes the rubber to lose its bond from the impeller hub. If it were mine, I would pull that gearcase, replace the impeller, and update the aluminum housing to the plastic housing with the SS liner. Don't forget to clean out that pesky drain passage in front of the gearcase while you have it off, perhaps enlarge that drain hole just "a touch" also.. Those slots in that "reverse thrust extension" are in the exhaust passage, so you probably won't see any water coming out of those slots. The UL81J (now UL81C) plugs are the correct plugs for this engine. The L77JC4s will probably foul due to the low tension ignition, am guessing you installed them temporarily because you don't have the UL81Js. .

Nice outboard! I really like 70""s OMC, well cast crankcases on lots of these motors less noisy sloppy pistons. When i get an outboard to work on, i always check compression first, no point in wasting time on a outboard with bad compression. Thanks for the video! Your channel was brought to my attention by a guy from Orlando FL he has a TH-cam channel called "" This old outboard"" Greetings from The Netherlands

I think the UL Spark plugs are a booster gap plug type. They have a internal gap, so no continuity will read.

Sweet!😁👍🏻

presto!!

Woah, thats crazy. From over heating or bad production? Or?

Words to live by with old OMCs

She's purring like a kitten now. Great deal on that motor 👍🏻

The early ones ran the best

Sweet deal, that gage cluster is really nice.

Nice

Yeah, these early ones can fool you for sure. That whole cavity between the outer and inner exhaust tube must be filled before water will come out of there. Oftentimes you won't see anything coming out of that relief until you get the RPM up.

OK, that sticker is part of the high reverse thrust kit, meant for sailboat auxiliary use.. That sticker is that because the two piece reverse latch has been replaced with a solid latch which won't release when you hit something in forward gear. So, if you hit something at high speeds (on a normal little boat), the engine won't kick up and will likely be damaged. So, that sticker is there in case the engine is not being used on a sailboat. And yeah, don't damage that rubber boot on the tiller, new ones are NLA. That tiller pivot bolt is are real PIA, especially in salt water. It is real important to get this shoulder bolt cleaned and lubed correctly, especially when the engine is new. Once it has been used in salt water for a season, the grease passages are just plugged with salt making it impossible to lube without removing that pesky shoulder bolt. It is super important to get the tension on that should bolt right also, it has a beveled washer under there to give it some spring tension and keep the tiller tight when pivoting. This throttle set up is weak at best, a sloppy tiller will cause those expensive gears to jump, misalign, and teeth to chip off. I have spent many hours with the heat gun over the years trying to get this stuff apart after years of neglect. That low tension ignition is "different", usually hated by most technicians, mostly because they don't really understand the theory behind how it works. Like you noted in the video, swapping the primary inputs will not cause a no spark condition, but surely will knock it out of time. And yes, sheared flywheel keys are not common, unless someone fails to retorque the nut properly when reinstalling the flywheel, which is fairly common. I'm gonna try to find you a OMC flywheel puller kit. The low tension ignition system requires that the mag plate be well grounded to the block, unlike the standard OMC mags. There is a ground strap running from underneath the mag plate to the engine block, perhaps that is missing/damaged. Most of these ignition parts do look original on this engine. That driver coil could be bad, it is simple winding that can be easily checked with an ohm meter. There is also a primary wiring harness that runs from each set of points out to the coils and stop switch. Good find on that stop switch, I was thinking the cover looked a little strange just seeing it on the video. On this engine there are two connectors splicing the stop switch into the external primary wiring harness, these are easily disconnected for diagnosing stop switch issues. That primary wiring harness is another big source of trouble, the leads get pinched and shorted to the mag plate, or the leads set severed from constant twisting/turning...

She's in pretty good shape almost like new inside. Hopefully changing those coil wires will bring back some spark. Just think if that's all it was why it was put it away. Some small things just get looked over. Good luck with her Glenn 👍🏻

Need parts I have many for this style and motors from 1950-80s OMCs 2HP-40HP mostly and some other off brands....

Wow luv those old 70S motors OMC made they were sweet. Looks like she will run easily great tips & information... later Frank

Someone added the "reverse thrust kit" to that 76 9.9hp, probably for sailboat use. The biggest challenge on these engines is the ignition, it has the hybrid "low tension" ignition system, CDII would be introduced in 1977. The low tension system isn't so bad, oftentimes misunderstood. It is important that the mag plate bushing/crankcase pilot bushing have a tight fit though to avoid messing up the point settings. Be sure to replace that big plastic mag plate bushing: 322435. This engine doesn't look to have alot of hours, so that is a plus. This engine should have most of the updates to combat plug fouling also because it is a 1976 model. The plus here is that this older model has the older style upper water tube grommet that was not prone to getting crushed in salt water like the ones used on later models. Now that Zephyr will be quite the conquest indeed. Those things are so over engineered with extremely confusing/fussy ignition and fuel systems. I always wanted to go to "Zephyr school". Don't know anything about the Scott, except that you are right, they did not get the recognition they deserved. Have fun!!

Good score 50 bucks! Can't beat that. Sweet old gauge to she looks mint. Somebody out there is looking for one. Good luck with that Johnson 👍🏻

Looking for old parts let me know mostly OMC 2HP-40HP 1950-1980S.

$50.00!? Wow, how could anybody pass that up? Sell the Prop and the Gray Marine gauge cluster and you're ahead of the game. Can't wait to see what you decide to do.

Wow that s amazing nice job and thanks for the tips a great video for outboard oldy guys...Frank

Another one back from the dead great job Glenn! I love the old patina on the body but when you open her up she looks mint! She did not give up easy but runs really good now just like it was new. Once you figure out that roller Was bent what a bugger! What a hard problem to figure out. But they can't resist coming back to life in your hands 😁 Keep up the great work looking forward to seeing what you drag out next. Have a great night Glenn👍🏻

Another good video. Many people would have never found the problem with the bent carb cam throttle roller. That is why some of us like the challenges of working on these older outboards. We never really know what is in store for us. In addition, just makes me wonder how some of those parts get so damaged. You have a lot of knowledge in your arsenal now of what to look for, and sharing it. Thank you.

any chance we can get this girl on the water?? that would be amazing lol

Oooooo, this old dog is a "fighter" for sure. It almost seems like some of them have a personality and just want to be left alone to die, they will fight you every step of the way! Funny you should have encountered that issue with the cam follower roller linkage, I am experiencing the same issue right now with a 58 10HP. I thought I swapped everything trying to figure out why I could not set up with sync properly... Hmm, thought I swapped out that piece, but perhaps not. My question just how does it get bent that way....Now I can't wait to get home to look at that 10HP again. Mine had been dropped at some point, had a nice hole through one of the covers, so I "assssuuumed" there must have been some sort of damage to one of the castings. As far was the impeller goes, I will not use any of that chinese/Amazon junk, not worth the gamble. And yes, we must be so darn careful mixing and matching stuff. Now I can't wait to investigate the part numbers on the two different upper carb bodies to see if they are the same... Don't beat yourself up over that darn rewind pulley, we have all "been there and screwed that up" for sure. I love this engine cuz it looks like some old hunk o junk from the outside. Would be so cool to arrive at the boat launch with it, watching others snicker at it, until they hear it run!

Need parts I have it most likely 1950S-80S 2HP -40HP OMC Mostly E-mail me at my TH-cam home page

I just... love the little buger !!!!!?

My grandfather had a 1958 10 hp Johnson that got used every year both fresh and salt water. In 1988 it was still in use, looked brand new and ran as good as the day he bought it. We never had much money so we saved, bought the best we could and took great care of what we had. Amazing what happens when you take care of stuff.

Another great video Glenn. Old motor sure has come a long ways those darn points lol now you got some spark! Your going to have it running in no time now. Looking forward to seeing you get this one going. Good deal on those parts you scored for the Johnson. Never know what guys got for sale on marketplace im always looking on there lol. Keep up the great work always enjoy watching! Take care my friend 👍🏻

I appreciate the fact that you do not scrap those old motors. Good work, enjoying the series.

Need parts 2HP-40HP mostly OMCs 1950S-80S and some off brands complete engines,gearcases,blocks ,etc.

Your moving along pretty good to me. Most dont realize whats being actually accomplished up until now in this video.Keep up the Good Work ...regards Frank

Wow! Looks New that's some good paint

Bow fishing at night we saw a Evinrude 70hp motor with a broken transom still bolted to it. I dried it out and lubed it up. It started and ran! I use it on my boat today. I had to clean carbs and replaced reed valves. New impeller for the water pump. I replaced piston rings also. It runs great!

Great video Glenn. A lot of guys would have said that motor is toast but not you lol. The bottom end sure looks nice now nice job. Keep up the great work another one coming back to life. Take care 👍🏻

Gotta love that rod bolt! The rods were probably toast anyway from the botched previous attack on the powerhead. OK, this one does have the crummy lower seal I mentioned in place of the carbon seal, OMC returned to the carbon seal again in 1957. These seals rusted and failed, many powerheads were slowly destroyed from water ingestion through the damaged lower seal. Are you using the Yamaha paint?? Wonder what was up with the doubled up fuel pump bypass covers, glad you returned them to original.