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Rickey Holtsclaw
United States
เข้าร่วมเมื่อ 20 ม.ค. 2021
Stretch Fit Engine Belts - Installation Suggestion
Installing air conditioner belt on a 2013-2014 Chevrolet 3500 6.0 engine. My engine does not have a "tensioner" for the air-con belt. Mine requires a "Stretch Fit" which I had no idea of the problems associated with installing this style of belt. I share a little trick that makes the job "easier"...
มุมมอง: 32
วีดีโอ
Mercury OB-Too Many Filters-Fuel Starvation/Missing Out/Sea Trial
มุมมอง 9714 ชั่วโมงที่ผ่านมา
2014 Mercury 150 EFI Four-Stroke - installed on a project boat subsequent 300-hour inspection. Engine begins to shudder-miss at 2700RPM's - NOT IN LIMP MODE. Removed both engine filters and relying on a 10-Micron 90-GPH fuel-water separator for filtration - Sea Trial Results in video...
Hurricane Milton: Pine Island, FL (Bokeelia)
มุมมอง 1.4Kหลายเดือนก่อน
October 9-10, experiencing Hurricane Milton's assault on Pine Island, Florida. An area devastated by Hurricane Ian, assaulted by Hurricane Helene. Our experience riding-out the storm in the City of Bokeelia, positioned on the North side of Pine Island, FL.
SeaStar Hydraulic Steering - Removing Stuck Brackets - DIY Puller Attachment
มุมมอง 37หลายเดือนก่อน
The rounded shoulder on older model SeaStar Hydraulic Steering brackets can't be pulled with traditional pullers including those purported to be pullers specifically designed for SeaStar brackets sold at a hefty price. Let's fabricate a puller attachment out of 3/8" aluminum that allows an inexpensive two-jaw puller from Harbor Freight to easily pull-remove stuck-on SeaStar brackets void damage...
Hurricane Helene - Pineland Marina - Pine Island, Florida
มุมมอง 56หลายเดือนก่อน
Hurricane Helene - Pineland Marina (Safe Harbor) - 9/26/2024 - Approximately 2PM....It was certainly NO Ian yet Helene was concerning...minor flooding to some homes on the west side of the Island.
Removing SeaStar Support Brackets - DIY Adapter - avoid damage to unit!
มุมมอง 75หลายเดือนก่อน
Older model SeaStar support brackets on their Hydraulic Steering Units can't be pulled-off by conventional pullers manufactured for later model units. Let's fabricate an easy DIY clamp that will work with a traditional claw puller and remove the older brackets void costly and unsightly damage when using blunt force instruments to beat the brackets loose. Original Video: studio.th-cam.com/users/...
SeaStar Hydraulic Steering - Servicing Leaking Seals in older models void damage!
มุมมอง 31หลายเดือนก่อน
Older model Seastar Hydraulic Steering Cylinders don't allow claw pullers to assist in removing the End Brackets - far too many DIY boaters beat them off with a hammer and screwdriver resulting in damage. Let's fabricate an aluminum bracket that a claw-puller can attach too and pull that bracket without damage. Let's discuss model numbers and "group numbers" for parts and tools acquisition on t...
Mercury 150 Outboard: Fault Code 1012-25 "Engine or Drive Trim Position" Limp Mode Activated
มุมมอง 1002 หลายเดือนก่อน
Water testing a 2014 Mercury 150EFI Four Stroke and engine codes began beeping and filling the Vessel View with information. Limped the vessel back to the dock at 7-MPH. Found the Trim Sensor Assembly wiring shorted out...attempted to repair but unsuccessful, opted for replacement of the Trim Sensor Assembly...let's talk about it.
Mercury 150 Outboard: NASTY HIDDEN #2 FUEL FILTER!
มุมมอง 2892 หลายเดือนก่อน
Purchased a used 2014 Mercury 150EFI Four Stroke requiring a 300-hour inspection. By happen-chance I discovered this engine has a #2 fuel filter hidden in the rear of the motor behind the side cowlings...let's dig it out, replace it and figure out why Mercury hid this filter and why they require it?
Boat Trailer Hitch Extension (DIY)
มุมมอง 2K2 หลายเดือนก่อน
Some boat trailers are engineered or configured too short at the hitch and require the operator to bury the rear wheels of their tow-vehicle into the water at the boat ramp in order to off-load their vessel; this dangerous scenario, depending on ramp conditions, can lead to a swamped tow vehicle or worse, completely losing the vehicle into the water...let's do our best to circumvent this unnece...
Windlass Horizon 400 Maintenance (Anchor Retrieval)
มุมมอง 482 หลายเดือนก่อน
Difficulty finding any relevant information on this Windlass 400 anchor retrieval system. Decided to take it slow and carefully figure out how to lube and inspect the internals. My first effort...things went well...
Red Dot Install on NON MOS Glock 27 / JT Defense Mount
มุมมอง 512 หลายเดือนก่อน
Providing a viable option for NON-MOS Glock and Springfield Armory owners who desire the benefits of the Red Dot Optic but don't want to cut or permanently modify their weapon's slide. I installed a JT Defense Mount for Red Dot Optics on a buddy's Glock 27 and took the weapon to the range for testing...come along and let's evaluate this innovative three-point lock-up mount?
ONAN 4000 Generator - Rodent Proofing (DIY)
มุมมอง 312 หลายเดือนก่อน
See video of rodent damage that stopped my ONAN 4000 from functioning: th-cam.com/video/SZKJiFjUW3I/w-d-xo.html I've had to take rather extreme measures to ensure the little creatures don't chew my generator's wires again...a fix that should deter any intrusions...
ONAN 4000 Generator - Starts then dies when starter released - Code 13 or 14 (My Fix)
มุมมอง 1912 หลายเดือนก่อน
Went through a host of trouble shooting techniques but NOTHING solved the problem until I removed the ONAN from the RV and ultimately removed the flywheel...guess what the problem was?
Boat Trailer Wheel Hub - Bearings & Leaf-Spring Replacement (DIY)
มุมมอง 632 หลายเดือนก่อน
Measuring leaf-spring for fitment; finding hub part number for ordering; preparing hub for installation; safely preparing trailer for wheel, hub, leaf-spring removal and installation; removing old hubs and leaf-springs; replacing new hubs and leafs with proper torque and fitment.
Mercury 150 Outboard - #4 Spark Plug/Boot Fitment
มุมมอง 332 หลายเดือนก่อน
Mercury 150 Outboard - #4 Spark Plug/Boot Fitment
I/O to Outboard Transition - The Good, Bad, Ugly
มุมมอง 2.5K2 หลายเดือนก่อน
I/O to Outboard Transition - The Good, Bad, Ugly
Boat Ramp Anxiety - New Boater - Don't give up!
มุมมอง 8593 หลายเดือนก่อน
Boat Ramp Anxiety - New Boater - Don't give up!
Boat Transom Saver (DYI) Heavy Duty - Extended for Set-Back Brackets
มุมมอง 5813 หลายเดือนก่อน
Boat Transom Saver (DYI) Heavy Duty - Extended for Set-Back Brackets
Toyota Tundra VSC, Check Engine, Traction Light - One Solution
มุมมอง 37Kปีที่แล้ว
Toyota Tundra VSC, Check Engine, Traction Light - One Solution
Leave the hood up and the mice and rats won't try to nest in your engine compartment, and always check your air filter box if your truck won't start they love to build nest in the box and bigger hoses.
Thank you for sharing
Looks like the north end of Pine Island took a hard shot with Milton, sadly.
Hello Greg. We drove up to the N. Side of Pine Island recently and Captain Conn's is destroyed as is their famous pier and fishing spot...owner reportedly says she's done...will not rebuild.
Great video
How did the sea trial go. Cruise and wot
Hello Rich, thus far the "sea trial" has been terrible. Initially, I ran into a trim sender problem and the defaults that result from that...limp mode and power interruption as per Vessel View. Corrected those defaults here: th-cam.com/video/1MTcvWxHzRI/w-d-xo.html Second sea trial, the engine began missing at 2750 RPM...I believe it's a fuel starvation problem, I've ordered a new fuel tank pick up and I'm doing away with the anti-siphoning valve at the fuel tank hoping that will cure the problem...these are probably OEM and partially obstructed. Thus far, 9-MPH is max speed. Changing prop pitch - experimenting. The vessel handles very well, takes chop well...if I can work out the performance problems, she will be a great near-offshore vessel.
When mine (1988 GM 4.3 V6) blew both head gaskets I did a top engine overhaul (my cost $800) and replaced the exhaust with a center riser conversion (my cost $1200) and it’s been running great for the 7 seasons since then…but I did consider the OB conversion but unless you’re buying used they are just too expensive to justify…
Thanks. I owned a 5.7 I/O in the past...I paid around $3.5K for aftermarket risers and manifolds and did the job myself. I was told it was a 3.5-year regular replacement due the saltwater's deterioration inside the cast units. You are correct...you can buy a refurbished Mercruiser engine for less money than an outboard, especially if you're doing the work yourself.... and then the money spent on a bracket and beefing-up the old I/O transom for the transition...it's expensive. I won't do it again. I'm ready and willing to refurbish an old outboard and keep it an outboard but an I/O to Outboard, especially with a transom rebuild, is just NOT worth the money IMHO. Thanks for watching...you made the right decision.
@@rickeyholtsclaw7764 My conversion cost a bit more because I had to buy some VP parts to make it work on my old OMC. The price for just the manifolds & elbows was $750 (Barr Marine aftermarket)….
@@Luigi-pk8mk I purchased my manifolds and risers from "Barr" as well...pleased with the fit, finish, quality, for aftermarket...still expensive for an old retiree.
Nice job dude, but way over built. Also next video try not to whisper as much 😂😂😂😂
Thanks Richard. I've always been one to "overdo" projects. Sometimes that "whispering" was related to dehydration...I lost between 12-15 pounds over the span of this project, 1-kidney stone passed and 1-UTI in the Florida summer heat/humidity. Definitely, a learning experience. Thanks for watching.
I see one issue..if you store your boat in a garage or shed the extension may not allow you to close the doors.. One tip on drilling the holes...use a Cobalt bit..drills thru steel alot easier then titanium or steel bits.
You can fabricate your extension to "swing" and allow garage storage...
Be sure to check your battery terminals. My 2008 Tundra did this, I had the VSC, check engine light and 4LO flashing. I cleaned my battery terminals and it cleared the faults. My terminals were corroded.
I've never boated before and recently bought an 11 ft RIB (Fiberglass bottom dinghy). Anticipating the same issue of having to reverse too far into the water, I also thought of this. Thanks for your ideas My plan though is to have the extension telescoping. In other words the extension should be retractable.
If you have the time...would you send a photo of your completed project, thanks?
GREAT Im thinking of extending the tongue off may trailoer. Nice helpful video .
Thank you, let me know if I can be of assistance along the way?
Some ugly welds on that bracket from Viking
I would have constructed my own bracket but my welding experience is limited to carbon steel - oil-field pipe...my favorite...would enjoy toying with aluminum welds...want to build a permanent cover-hard top for the boat. Thanks for your input.
Great video!
Thank you...I look back on this video and wish I had included more relevant information but I hope the very basics are covered sufficiently. Be safe...thanks again!
Tengo el mismo problema alguien que me ayude
Averiguaste algo? Yo también
aqui en el video esta diciendo que es el alambrado o sensor abajo del intake manifold
The best way to help with the stress at the ramp is pick a weekday and time there is little activity at the ramp. Take your time, launch, move away from the dock, come back in to dock the boat, then off the dock and load, several times. A windy day is even better practice because if you boat enough, you will be caught on windy days. I have been boating for 25+ years, some of the best practice I got over the years was with a 21' carolina skiff loading in a cross-wind. But a couple years ago I took my new bay boat out to run break-in hours. Nice calm day, UNTIL I was 20 miles from the ramp and started heading back. When I got back to the ramp, I was dealing with a strong tide and a 20+ mph cross-wind. Those years of experience loading in strong winds paid off that day. I just picked up my new 24' bay boat last week, have not taken it out for break-in yet. But even though I have owned boats for many years, my first trip out will be mid-week launching and loading a few times just to get the feel of this particular boat. Knock on wood! So far, I have not needed it but about 15 years ago when I went from lake fishing to saltwater fishing, I got SEATOW. Towboat or Seatow is some of the best money you will spend if you ever have problems on the water. Cool thing is, I live on the NC coast but take my boat to the FL Keys every Spring and up to Smith Mtn Lake VA striper fishing a few times a year, Seatow is everywhere I go fishing. Even with boats having a VHF radio, a waterproof handheld is good to have in case you have to bail out of the boat. A rescue beacon! I use a ACR ResQlink. There would be so many boaters, hikers, skiers and others still alive today if they had that $400 piece of equipment. Just a few weeks ago, some guys running 40 miles offshore in the Gulf boat sank. The ACR put the Coast Guard helicopter on them floating in the ocean.
Excellent advice...thank you for taking the time to share.
I've had a boat since 1970, all great tips! But one essential item you didn't mention and that's a five gallon bucket for many reasons but mainly a dewatering device if you lost power and as a sea anchor. If you have lost all power and stuck in rough condition tie a line on the bucket handle secured to the bow cleat. It's best to have at least 50' of line for this use, it will keep the bow into the wind preventing seas from swamping the transom. It's not a "boat pole" it's a "boat hook". And remember there is no rope on a vessel it's "line". Best Regards, Jay
so... if you are going from shallow to deep, keep green on the right, and if you are going from deep to shallow green is on the left? Is this correct? Thanks for the video :)
Basically, if you're leaving a large body of water and headed to a shallow harbor you'll keep red on the right. It is wise to study how the markers are laid out in your area and the points that are designated for north to south such as in the Keys...there are excellent videos on this subject...I would view them as well. I live on Pine Island in SW Florida and the ICW here is fairly well marked..."red and green pass between"...I was surprised to see how quickly the channel changes from deep to shallow when you move outside those markers...If I'm in an unfamiliar area...I cautiously SLOW DOWN, look for a differentiation in water colors and watch my transducer's echo...there are techniques that assist you in shallow water when you feel yourself about to run-a-ground...stay calm...don't panic...don't destroy your prop or the basin...there is a plethora of good information on markers and navigation, you would be wise to absorb as much as possible and then put that information to use. Don't be shy about seeking advice and wisdom from the locals.
All good stuff. I would encourage any new boaters to spend a day with an experienced boater before they go solo. Have a process for launching & loading and remember that you are responsible for your & your guests safety. I'm on year 3 of having a boat and still feel like a newbie some days but I no longer get in a rush to launch or load. Be efficient & don't waste time launching & loading but don't rush and potentially damage your boat or hurt someone.
That transmits every trailer vibration straight to the transom. Support engine to the boat, not trailer.
If the boat and trailer are "one" with tie-downs in place, the transfer is minimal and the trim motor is secure. Supporting the engine to the vessel is not a valid option, irrelevant. th-cam.com/video/3w-6roMNznI/w-d-xo.html
buy a $5 strap and tie your motor to the boat, it wont bounce around , very easy
Your trim motor will pay the price, yes?
I couldn’t tell the difference on my harness and I still had the code, I’m going to pull it out and look at it. Thanks for the video.
Could t you of just soldered the chewed wires man would of been allot faster and easier I’d think.
The chewed wires were under the intake manifold. It requires an hour or two to access…why not replace with a new harness as opposed to trying to locate every wire compromised and patch? $30.00 bucks for a correct and proper fix is better than a sloppy patch work that may or may not correct the problem. IMHO
Well done, and I thought it was the gas cap. Strong work.