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No lime, only boiled linseed oil. Yes, you can add pigments, but not too much. So if you wanted dark red, add black to the red, to use less pigment. Do some test samples first.

Thank you very much!

Thanks and yes, more in the pipeline!

That’s trowel mastic that frequently fails. It’s a ready to use product, which is quite dry and lacks adhesion. This is one is mixed shortly prior to use with boiled linseed oil. Which adheres very well to masonry and painted wood surfaces etc. It’s a recipe that goes back 200 years or so. The original version had raw linseed oil and red lead in it which is why it was red, also imitated by the new products. This one does not have lead, but uses boiled linseed oil instead of raw.

@@builtheritageeducation Thank you for the swift reply. I’m told you can also seal with lime mortar, which I already have a lot of. Would you also recommend that as an alternative?

Yes and no. Historically when windows were installed, they were rested upon a bed of mortar. It was applied to the sides also. But, as mortar and timber move at different rates (thermal movement) separation occurs, allowing water ingress. So, while lime mortar was used, it was typically covered with the more flexible and water repelling sand mastic. That, or the building design would prevent issues, such as masonry overlapping the window frame. BTW, linseed oil stops water ingress but allows moisture vapour to pass through it.

@@builtheritageeducation ok great well I’ll bite the bullet and order some burnt sand mastic then! Are there any particular brands that stand out quality wise or are they pretty much the same? Many thanks

Many lime suppliers sell it. Just make it clear that you are not after 'Trowel mastic'. As it's simply kiln dried sand, like that used over monoblocking, and high quality, Boiled Linseed Oil (BLO) you can try making it yourself if you like. The only problem is that some BLO is low quality, popular for use as a coating on shuttering for concrete. So a good brand from a reputable paint supplied would be good.

The larger nylon mell (the modern version of a traditional wooden mell) delivers a different type of impact. It has force, but without the sharp action of a metal hammer. In the UK, the metal ones are more often used for cuts where short, sharp cuts are wanted. The sharp blow from a heavy metal hammer is sometimes what you want for splitting, pitching.

I use pitching tools and nickers all the time here in Yorkshire, so do other stonemasons I know. A pitcher will break stone faster than eg a grinder or stihl saw, and won't cause all the dust. Good stoneworkers in this sandstone area follow the beds and flaws in the stone, hard to do that with a power drill.

This is obviously a video explaining tools used in traditional stonework. So no, it’s not “worth saying.” Make us a video showing how to use modern tools Passion Killer😂

I’ve used both over the years. I much prefer to use chisels. The dust and noise of Stihl saw make it very unattractive. Worth having on a job site though.

We agree ;). Thank you for feedback!

It’s on the list :)

@@builtheritageeducation we usually that that for granite

Thank you! We're glad it was helpful! :)

We have the script and it should have uploaded, so will follow up. Thanks for the helpful feedback!

That should be improved now. Thanks again.

@@builtheritageeducation I wish your team great success in the future. Good luck!

Thanks for the sub! We're planning a series of these shorts!