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Ryan Burkhardt
เข้าร่วมเมื่อ 3 ก.ค. 2015
Model A restoration and maintenance videos
Model A 600W vs. SAE 140 Gear Oil at ~45 deg F
Quick comparison of 600W vs. SAE 140 Gear Oil at ~45 deg F
มุมมอง: 1 386
วีดีโอ
Model A vs Model B Wheels
มุมมอง 7834 ปีที่แล้ว
Comparison on 19” Model A wheels and 16” Model B wheels on a 1930 Ford Model A
First Start - Rebuilt Model A Engine
มุมมอง 5354 ปีที่แล้ว
2/25/2020: First start of the Model A engine I rebuilt
Ford Model A Transmission Disassembly (Time Lapse)
มุมมอง 2664 ปีที่แล้ว
A time lapse video showing the disassembly of a Model A Ford transmission
Model A Engine Removal - Introduction
มุมมอง 1.1K4 ปีที่แล้ว
Starting point in removing a Model A engine.
Model A Bearing Clearances
มุมมอง 6K4 ปีที่แล้ว
Measuring Model A bearing clearances - Babbitt bearings
Model A Engine Refresh - Trailer
มุมมอง 3184 ปีที่แล้ว
Trailer introducing the refresh of a Model A engine which was stored for 30 years.
How to adjust Model A valve clearances
มุมมอง 13K4 ปีที่แล้ว
Guide to adjusting Model A valve clearances
1930 Model A Oil Pan Restoration
มุมมอง 12K6 ปีที่แล้ว
Restoration and installation of a 1930 Ford Model A Oil Pan
1930 Model A Restoration Preview
มุมมอง 2706 ปีที่แล้ว
Preview of a 1930 Ford Model A Restoration Project
Model A Emergency Brake Return Spring Installation
มุมมอง 5K6 ปีที่แล้ว
Model A Emergency Brake Return Spring Installation
Good help, getting ready to pull the motor on my 1928. Thanks
Hows it going, I got to take mine out also
I did my final adjust in the car with a feeler gauge against the through out brearing face set against the highest finger and adjusting the other to match even to bearing within 1/1000 of a inch
New pressure plat I got was double nutted .
Always good to have a spare engine 😂😅👍
Find videos of aircraft mechanics safetying bolts such as propeller bolts, oil filters, drilled bolt heads for brake calipers.
Your lefty loosy righty tighty instruction is confusing. Threading the adjuster (7/16") clockwise down into the pushrod (1/2") opens the gap, counterclockwise lifts adjuster up and closes the gap. 😁
Great video I’m a new subscriber
Thank you. Hope it was helpful
Well done!
How do you tuning this thing , I have one the sound is not right do I just clean the motor and oil it ?
There is a 'tuning' adjustment screw on the back next to the cover screw. You can adjust it to get the desired ahh ooga sound. Hope that helps
@@ryanburkhardt2368 thanks
So a video about taking off a pulley where the pulley is already removed. Got it.
Hola soy de Buenos Aires, Argentina tengo un A, 1930, me podrías decir en milímetros cuanto lleva la luz o espacio de admisión y de escape? se puede regular como un Flathead convencional? por ejemplo así regulo mi Pontiac Six Flathead: siguiendo el firing order : válvulas en "balanceo o a medio subir bajar del cilindro 1 y regulo el cilindro 6. En Balanceo de válvulas el cilindro 5 ,regulo válvulas del 2, luego balanceo 3 y regulo luz de válvulas cilindros 4 ,luego el 6,regulo válvulas cilindro 1, después balanceo de válvulas cilindro 2regulo el 5 ,y final en balanceo el 4 y regulo válvulas del cilindro 3? Pero en el caso del Ford A usaria el orden 1-2-4-3
Hi, I'm from Buenos Aires, Argentina. I have an A, 1930. Could you tell me in millimeters how much light or intake and exhaust space it has? can it be adjusted like a conventional flathead? For example, this is how I regulate my Pontiac Six Flathead: following the firing order: valves in "balancing" or halfway up, lower cylinder 1 and regulate cylinder 6. In Valve Balancing cylinder 5, I regulate valves of 2, then balance 3 and regulate light Of valves cylinders 4, then 6, I regulate valves cylinder 1, after balancing cylinder 2 valves I regulate 5, and finally in balancing 4 and I regulate valves of cylinder 3?But in the case of Ford A I would use the order 1-2- 4-3
Not sure if I understand your question. It has been awhile since I did this with my engine. I believe in the video I explain the order and the clearances I use. You would have to convert these from inches to mm. I also referenced the Les Andrews book. It is a great resource and a must have for these cars.
Great video. I’m still a bit confused though. What action do I need to take to lock the valves in place once they are adjusted. I have the single lock tappets just like those in the video. Thanks.
I believe, for the single lock, there is nothing more to do. Just enjoy the beautiful engine sound once it is back up and running.
Glad you didn't do it too long - doesn't take much eh? I made that mistake on the first one I ever did.
I dont even know what I'm looking at here ... my e brake made a popping noise and now won't engage... guess ill break out the book .. cant find a good video
Really useful and well-explained video Ryan. You have taken some of the mystery out of the process. I have a Ford 1,172cc sidevalve, but guessing the procedure is similar. Cheers
Nice video. Ryan, I would like to have seen a close up of the actual staking procedure on the nuts. I assume you use a small punch and light hammer, but am I pushing nut material into the screw threads or screw material down onto the nuts. Where do I place the punch??
The nuts are not staked. There are two nuts on the adjusting screw. You use them nuts against each other as a double nut to lock it down.
good night , i have a ford , year 29 i live in Campinas SP Brazil i have a problem , water passed into the engine through the inlet valve of the fourth cylinder , the gasket is not burnt , i can not know how this water passed i have already removed the valve and i didn't see any cracks, can you give me any tips
Hello - Sorry to hear about your water leak. It could be a leak/crack in the head or block. It is hard to tell with out pictures. There a a few methods to check. Sometimes it could be a simple as retorquing your head bolts. Sorry I could not offer more advise. Facebook also has great experts to reach out to. I hope you are able to get your car back on the road.
1932 is the model B they used 18” wheels 1933-34 is the model 40 and they used 17” wheels In 1935 all Ford passenger models used the 16” wire wheel, this is the last year of Ford wires wheels, in 1936 Ford went to the wide 5 bolt pattern artillery wheel.
What’s the best way to clean the oil out of the pan?
I first drained everything I could and recycled at the local auto parts store. Then, depending on how much sludge you have, you will need to scrape the pan then I used mineral spirts (parts washer) to clean anything that remained on the surfaces. Hope that helps.
Thanks for this video. Did you use any kind of cleaner to remove the compound or just wipe it away? I'm about to do this, this weekend on my Model A and fear leaving any residue. Thank you.
Stephen, I am glad you enjoyed the video. You want to ensure you remove all of the compound. I wiped it away, but also cleaned my engine surfaces completely prior to build. I used mineral spirts and lacquer thinner. My engine was disassembled, which made it easier. Hope that helps.
What is the reason in beveling the ends of the shoe?
Hello, sorry for the late response. Beveling the ends of the shoes reduces the chance of the ends catching when the brakes engage. As the drum is rotating, the beveled edge is less likely to snag than a squared off one. Hope that helps.
Please keep these videos coming! Gary
Very helpful. Thanks, Gary
Hello Ryan, thanks for your footage, it sure a great help to get an idea how to. Regards from Myron Jacobs all the way from curaçao in the Caribbean.
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks Ryan, so much better watching a video compared to Les's book.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Good info! Thank you Sir! I am at this stage now!
Thank you for the great tip! My brake snaps back.
Can I have one?
Great info and it worked! a video would a bonus
Thanks for the info Greetings from Vancouver.
I wondered what you clean the motor with,? that would have been cool you show a little of that cleaning of the motor , I like your videos keep it up.!
Thank you. Mainly a wire brush or wire wheel for most of the casting.
Oops not for the horn motor, just a clean cloth and compressed air.
Nice vid Ryan - I did my clutch a couple of months ago - it was kinda fiddly but was happy with the result. I tried to see if you could buy those special nuts but they don't seem to be available so locking the nuts after adjustment is tricky - hope the extra locktite does the job!
Thank you for the comment. I have heard the original nuts are not available. I was able to re-stake mine, but would recommend the extra Loctite for the future. I am glad you had good results with your project.
Good stuff. I'll be doing this next week.
I am sure it will turn out great. Let me know if you have any questions.
Scott, thank you for your question. When new, there really aren't any true pins. The special nut is staked creating the staked tabs/pins shown in the video. I did run into the situation you are asking about, where the new adjustment lines up where the stake was removed from the nut. I was able to make slight adjustments and then re-stake the nuts. However, if you cannot, there is are wicking Loctite products you can use; Loctite 220 Blue or 290 Green. I think if I had to do it over, I would add the wicking Loctite. I hope that answers your question.
Where is the reassemble part of the brake system .
Totally Awesome. Thanks for posting.
I am glad you enjoyed it.
Nice job.... I skipped the safety wire detail on my video.... thought it was to hard to explain well
Thank you George. I appreciate it. Hope the video helps others.
Nice one Ryan! I'll be doing that soon with my motor - hoping to get the same woohoo!!!
Thank you so much for posting this Ryan. This is something I will be doing in the near future and now I understand the concept crystal clear.
I am glad it was useful. Hope your project goes well.
Ryan How did you hold the oil pump in place as you installed the oil pan?
You need an oil pump pin from most model A Ford parts sellers, try this link or google Mikes (model A parts).www.mikes-afordable.com/product/A6701.html
Use this www.mikes-afordable.com/product/A6701.html
I am asking the same question as Ryan, the 2 response are not visable.
Small bolt on side of engine block holds the pump in place. He talked about it in the beginning briefly, Part suppliers sell the bolt that looks like it has a bigger head on it. Paul Shinn Model A videos on TH-cam discusses it in one of his videos where he drops the oil pan but wants to keep pump in place.
were does the tail end of the spring locate, every body shows the hook end location but not the other end?
As you pull tension on the hook end, the tail end rests against the service brake actuating arm.
This is the same way I do it. Just pull on the spring hook with some wire.