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@@Capitan1nsan0 anytime brother. Glad this old vid is still helping others out there.

@@Justin27J no. Service mode typically, as far as I’ve come to find out, only applies to rear electronic parking brakes. It is meant to depress the parking brake actuators via the computer. Otherwise, the front brakes on most cars are NOT electronic and therefore, require no such procedure.

@ thank you!

Manually add voltage to the pins in the actuator. Either use 2 wires powered from a 9V battery or use 12V directly via a circuit tester. Amazon carries them for cheap

If adding power does nothing, you’ll have to watch my other shorts to understand what I did.

@@rayfrazier8783 exactly. Thats the jist of my entire explanation

@@OscarGonzalez-l5v hope you stay warm this season 🙌🏼

@@kanakistbass5476 this video is not meant to educate you on every aspect of the engine’s layout. Go research the basics first and then the video will make sense as you watch it.

Thanks brother. Hope you’re able to resolve your problem if its similar!

@@mikelites150 the whiteish clips, which act as the “skeleton” for the assembly, where it holds onto the seat frame on either side snapped, so the entire assembly had nothing to grab onto on one side causing any “lumbar engagement” to prove uneventful. By replacing that skeletal unit and leaving the cable intact, I prevented undoing more components than necessary which would have required going over to the side of the seat. This method reused the same functioning cable and just replaced the skeletal unit.

@JDL_MobileRepair Thanks for the info. I'm replacing mine this weekend. My skeleton frame is good, just my red clip broke. I'm just going to replace it all, but hold on to the old one for spare parts if ever needed in a case like yours.

I noticed it is reversed. Defroster selection blows only toward the driver. Facing the driver blows the defroster. Also, the forward facing vents blow air no matter what selection it is on.

@@b.j.mcdaniel3952 I didnt personally resolve it, but buying the new actuator should’ve resolved it

@@Davest420 thanks brother. Glad it helped ya

@@tr4spyable you’re right. Good thing I said “XK8 in the first 8secs of the video. I was working on an XF within that same week. Hence, the error. Good catch tho 👍🏼

Thanks brother

That was likely due to me attempting to loosen them by clamping on locking pliers and moving it back and forth. He certainly didnt give me impression of someone who beats on the car lol

Piston 1 at top dead center is all you need to focus on. Manually turn over the engine by hand, once you know Piston 1 is at TDC, then you can reposition your distributor etc

Hope it went smooth my man. Thanks for the comment

@@JDL_MobileRepair After further investigation, my leak was the trans cooler portion of the radiator. bypassed it with an external cooler.

@@hottroddchevelle i never recorded it. But shortly after this video, the power steering cooler proved to be another leaking culprit. Replaced that entire part for him as well

@@denisurbanczik9057 apologies for the late reply. Initial problem was lack of lumbar engagement when rotating the seat knob. I pulled the fabric up and noticed that the unit clips had snapped off the sides and the cable was totally fine otherwise. Bought a new assembly and simply swapped out the skeletal portion of it while leaving the original cable and transferring it onto the new unit. The new unit’s cable simply got removed and stored aside for future use if needed.

Thanks a lot!

🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣

Thanks man. I appreciate the support! Owning beaters has taught me so much.

Thats the goal, short, concise, and to the point 👍🏼 stay safe brother

Its gonna be a year soon since I last had my civic and I miss it. Happy to see everyone else still getting theirs back in order! Be safe!

Hmm, since you replaced the major components of the blower motor assembly I’d move on to get a multimeter and use it on 12V or DC to get a ready of the voltage at the blower motor harness connector, and then at the relay housing. Do this while the car is on and the blower motor is turned to high. You’re looking for the same voltage at both ends of your test. It would be amazing if you could get a test in while the car is on, the blower setting is ON, and nothing is blowing. This will show you exactly where the problem lies cause you shouldnt get a reading at one of the ends of the wiring route. Assuming the blower motor is fine. Thats where’d I’d start. If you recently got the blower motor, save the receipt in case your wiring checks out fine. Those motors can be faulty, especially since its usually OE stuff, not OEM.

There’s a possibility the knob for hot/cold might not be working. But its more common for people to experience a thermostat failure, or heater core issue or the need to bleed their coolant of any air. If you recently did a coolant flush or any work that requires messing with the coolant, I’d suspect thats your problem. The cheapest diagnostic you can do right now is pull off the climate control bezel and inspect the connectors for that knob and the wiring condition. Maybe hit it with air pressure can and try again. Next step i’d check is the thermostat for current and signal with a multimeter. TH-cam how to do that. Lastly, I’d suspect the heater core. But thats the most expensive fix, so do your best to make sure nothing I wrote above is the culprit

Hey man. Happy to have helped you and many more on this great car from the 90s!

Im glad its still helping people out to this day. Its certainly getting too cold to drive around without some proper heating 🤓

Awesome my man! Glad this video helped you out. I wish I still had my civic to post more DIY vids 🥹

did you grease it or? what did you do to get it unstuck i can’t get the metal to move easily for the life of me

Haha. Bro I banged it, slapped it, blew on the connector pins, and still nothing. The module itself was definitely fried.

Hey man, yeah I understand completely. This sounds like your rod and the moving assembly is somehow stuck or jammed when going into the defrost option. I’d disconnect the rod and move it with your hand to the defrost position. If you cant move it by hand, try to further visually inspect the “track” on which the entire assembly moves. It should be free n clear. If its rough to go into the setting, lube it up with a dab of grease along the track and gently work it back n forth. Replacing the module is the next step if you can “manually” get it into place, but the controls wont move it into place after the fact.

You’re welcome! Glad to have been helpful 🤙🏼

Well, at that point it might require some multimeter probing to check for discrepancies in the wiring. I havent gone that deep into the issue but thats my guess

Hey Larry, from the sounds of your description, I would recommend you check your shifter linkage bushings on the underside of the car. In particular, the bushing that bolts up to the chassis just under the shifter. That might be loose or worn. And the smaller springs are responsible for a more ratchet feeling engagement for 2 gears per spring. So one spring does gear 1-2, another 3-4, and the last 5-R. The larger spring makes the shifter’s left-to-right neutral motion stiffer. I wouldnt think it’ll align the shifter to a more centered position. Hope this helps, best of luck!

What problem exactly? The coolant leak?

@@JDL_MobileRepair yeah man tbh tomorrow my gasket maker comes in ima do the exact same. I also had to shave off a 12 wrench but any other tips you have for me this video is great and I much appreciate it man

@@ST1L0KS bro I returned this knock off shit. It kept leaking coolant and causing idle issues. Put an OEM Y8 5spd manifold and felpro gasket. No issues since. I redid this skunk style manifold 3 times with gasket maker. So I just gave up. Plus my throttle body plate kept sticking when the plate closed quick. It’d get caught in the walls of the throttle body

@@ST1L0KS I used a regular 12mm 12pt closed wrench end. Took me a while but it worked fine

@@JDL_MobileRepair so far no idle issues just a small leak thanks for the advice I have y7 but did the swap over