![Owen Bishop](/img/default-banner.jpg)
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Owen Bishop
United States
เข้าร่วมเมื่อ 14 ม.ค. 2016
Hello there! I work on a farm/ranch in Kansas. I am very much a "shade tree" mechanic. Most of what I work on is Ford vehicles, and a variety of old farm machinery. I do other "exciting" things as well, but I spend the majority of my time wrenching on something. Do you like part numbers, and part sources? I put those in almost all my repair videos! My goal here is to empower you with the knowledge to fix things on your own. If I can do it, I promise you can too.
For legal purposes, I am not a certified mechanic, so my repair advice is just my personal opinion and experience. Also, none of my videos are to be construed as "child friendly". IF you attempt to do anything I do, you do so at your own risk, and accept all the consequences.
There are a TON of great videos on TH-cam, and I appreciate you investing your time in watching my content.
For business and general inquiries, contact me at: Lightmaster1776@protonmail.com
I'll help you if I can!
For legal purposes, I am not a certified mechanic, so my repair advice is just my personal opinion and experience. Also, none of my videos are to be construed as "child friendly". IF you attempt to do anything I do, you do so at your own risk, and accept all the consequences.
There are a TON of great videos on TH-cam, and I appreciate you investing your time in watching my content.
For business and general inquiries, contact me at: Lightmaster1776@protonmail.com
I'll help you if I can!
Grazer G2297K PTO Clutch Fix.....AGAIN (plus other stuff)
I suppose I can weld it on there if this doesn't work........
PTO Clutch: www.walmart.com/ip/8TEN-Electric-PTO-Clutch-for-Warner-5218-24-X0255-X0255-K-810-CPT2394O/452633634
Spindle Bearings: thebigbearingstore.com/csa205-16-1-insert-bearing/
Original Video: th-cam.com/video/JdQgn1UhKKI/w-d-xo.html
Original Short: th-cam.com/users/shorts_dDfFJR18Zo?feature=share
PTO Clutch: www.walmart.com/ip/8TEN-Electric-PTO-Clutch-for-Warner-5218-24-X0255-X0255-K-810-CPT2394O/452633634
Spindle Bearings: thebigbearingstore.com/csa205-16-1-insert-bearing/
Original Video: th-cam.com/video/JdQgn1UhKKI/w-d-xo.html
Original Short: th-cam.com/users/shorts_dDfFJR18Zo?feature=share
มุมมอง: 12
วีดีโอ
2001 F250 Super Duty: Upgrading Rear Leaf Springs (and related components)
มุมมอง 32วันที่ผ่านมา
It certainly sits higher now, I'll have to adjust all the trailer hitches. Link to "Part 1": th-cam.com/video/Gh9LyiLA2WU/w-d-xo.html Parts Used: Leaf Springs, 4400lbs (7 leaf): www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=6402060&cc=1372496&pt=7544&jsn=396 Leaf Spring Plate: www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=14823589&cc=1372496&pt=15134&jsn=436 U-Bolts: (14" is a little much, I suggest ordering sligh...
Versatile 800: Solving the Air Conditioning Problem
มุมมอง 66หลายเดือนก่อน
Definitely need an auxiliary fan, the air flow SUCKS What we used: velitcamping.com/products/velit-2000r-rooftop-air-conditioner-12v-24v?variant=43751785234669
International DT466 startup (longer version)
มุมมอง 202หลายเดือนก่อน
The legend lives. From an IH 1480 combine. Full video about the combine here: th-cam.com/video/TWjK1AIsrfM/w-d-xo.html
We got a combine! Introducing the IH 1480 "Axial Flow"
มุมมอง 454หลายเดือนก่อน
So it leaks a little bit. Okay, quite a bit. Maybe a lot. Oh fine, it leaks live a sieve. We'll get that fixed. Probably.
Ford Excursion/SuperDuty: Muffler Replacement Tips
มุมมอง 44หลายเดือนก่อน
EXCURSION Muffler (Super Duty muffler varies, depending on wheelbase), for Triton V10: www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1261900&cc=1358096&pt=5872&jsn=339 EXCURSION Tailpipe (tailpipe varies on Super Duty pickups, depending on wheelbase), for Triton V10: www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1262020&cc=1358096&pt=10038&jsn=428 3" Exhaust Clamp: www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=132505&cc=135...
Property Cleanup, Episode III: Getting the front loader off the IH 1586
มุมมอง 21หลายเดือนก่อน
I know this isn't exciting, but it's what I've got for content at the moment. Working on some more interesting videos, hopefully they'll turn out good.
Versatile 800 At Work: Front Row Seat to Cummins Power & Sunflower Tillage Action!
มุมมอง 7762 หลายเดือนก่อน
This video is a bit different than what I normally do, please let me know what you think. And yes, I know I can't drive straight, and that the ground didn't work up perfectly. Previous video: th-cam.com/video/4DRka-pdze0/w-d-xo.html
Replacing Bearings in the Sunflower Disc (again)
มุมมอง 622 หลายเดือนก่อน
Bearings: thebigbearingstore.com/ Original Video: th-cam.com/video/CgZ393DO2H8/w-d-xo.htmlsi=y-6XOD_mvuduTB-c Next Video: th-cam.com/video/OdZGM-wVrVI/w-d-xo.html
Duplex Pumpjack, Model 55, Figure 88: Disassembly and Inspection
มุมมอง 2592 หลายเดือนก่อน
Arm Seals: SKF/CR 11061 Main shaft/pulley seal: SKF/CR 8624 I MIGHT BE WRONG ABOUT THE 1104 GEAR, WATCH THIS: th-cam.com/video/qofL73BTIww/w-d-xo.htmlsi=1nOl5o7J0RrulWiP
Bobcat T200: Steering Pintle Lever Fix & Steering Neutral Adjustment Tips
มุมมอง 2292 หลายเดือนก่อน
Better videos on the way, hopefully.
Bad Weather Inbound: Securing Our Vehicles, Just In Case
มุมมอง 3243 หลายเดือนก่อน
Y'all let me know if you like this type of video or not. I don't wanna spam the channel with these types of uploads if nobody is interested in them.
I fixed the Grazer mower electrical issues (I think)
มุมมอง 1463 หลายเดือนก่อน
I fixed the Grazer mower electrical issues (I think)
Shop/Property Cleanup, Episode II: Moving IH 5000 Windrower/Sprayer Conversion
มุมมอง 1.6K3 หลายเดือนก่อน
Shop/Property Cleanup, Episode II: Moving IH 5000 Windrower/Sprayer Conversion
2001 F250 Super Duty: Fixing the Driver's Seat
มุมมอง 1634 หลายเดือนก่อน
2001 F250 Super Duty: Fixing the Driver's Seat
6.4 Powerstroke: Disassembling Turbos to Prove a Point
มุมมอง 1K4 หลายเดือนก่อน
6.4 Powerstroke: Disassembling Turbos to Prove a Point
2007 Mazda CX9: Replacing Front Wheel Bearing
มุมมอง 3964 หลายเดือนก่อน
2007 Mazda CX9: Replacing Front Wheel Bearing
Ford Superduty/Excursion Dead Battery Issues
มุมมอง 274 หลายเดือนก่อน
Ford Superduty/Excursion Dead Battery Issues
Versatile 800: Oil Cooler Reseal/Replacement
มุมมอง 635 หลายเดือนก่อน
Versatile 800: Oil Cooler Reseal/Replacement
It's Time.............Shop/Property Cleanup Project: Introduction
มุมมอง 695 หลายเดือนก่อน
It's Time.............Shop/Property Cleanup Project: Introduction
2001 Ford SuperDuty: Super/Extend Cab Rear Door Repair
มุมมอง 865 หลายเดือนก่อน
2001 Ford SuperDuty: Super/Extend Cab Rear Door Repair
2007 Ford Expedition Revival, Part V: Interior Assembly
มุมมอง 145 หลายเดือนก่อน
2007 Ford Expedition Revival, Part V: Interior Assembly
Expedition Carpet: I Made Some Mistakes!
มุมมอง 305 หลายเดือนก่อน
Expedition Carpet: I Made Some Mistakes!
Hillbilly Heater Core Hose Connector Workaround- 2001 F250 Super Duty
มุมมอง 716 หลายเดือนก่อน
Hillbilly Heater Core Hose Connector Workaround- 2001 F250 Super Duty
2007 Ford Expedition Revival, Part IV: Replacing Carpet
มุมมอง 717 หลายเดือนก่อน
2007 Ford Expedition Revival, Part IV: Replacing Carpet
2007 Ford Expedition Revival, Part III: Removing the Dash (IT SUCKS)
มุมมอง 2007 หลายเดือนก่อน
2007 Ford Expedition Revival, Part III: Removing the Dash (IT SUCKS)
Bummer. Them clutches ain’t usually cheap. They generate a bunch of heat and might’ve just neutralized that loctite. We always used red loctite and big fender washer big lock washer 😅 Good luck G
Thanks brother! That's exactly what was wrong with my 2000 F250 7.3. Now maybe you can tell me why I am depending on a 24 year old pickup to pull trailers. Other than I don't want to give those bastards a lot of money for a plastic new truck.
Any idea what size the vacuum hose for the egr is? Gotta work on a 97 e350 motorhome tomorrow. Need to replace that hose and a couple other things.
Unfortunately, no; I do not know what the size of the EGR hose is.
why wouldn't you remove the unhinged side of the braces? then they would just flip out of the way.
I felt that removing the hinged side was easier, that way I could access everything from one side. Also, if we're being honest, I didn't realize I took them off backwards until I had the tank out.
Brother your hilarious and a huge help, good video
Good information I think he just spent way too much time off subject. This video could’ve been a lot shorter.
🇲🇽💙
Thank you for the only information out there for these mowers... cant even find an owners manual.
Glad I could help. Unfortunately, I've never run across a place for owner's manuals. The last place I found them isn't working anymore.
big help. Thank you!
That was way more work than necessary.
And how to release hydro stat trans?
On the hydrostatic drive mowers, there are two levers at the front of each drive motor that you move down to put each drive in neutral; that way you can roll the machine around without issue. However, you have an 1142, which looks like a chain drive mower; and I have no idea if releasing the transmission(s) is the same or similar process. Somebody else asked me a similar question awhile back, but I don't think he ever said how he got the trans. drives in neutral.
I have a 1142 where can i get a manual
If you are looking for a parts manual, then you'll want to go here: www.rottmansales.com/parts/ingersoll-case/ If you're looking for an operator's manual.......that's going to be tough. The old Eastman Industries website used to have downloadable operator manuals, but that website doesn't work anymore. You might try here: www.caseingersollparts.com/store/c1/CASE_AG_%2F_CONSTRUCTION.html and see if they have one. Otherwise, try looking on Ebay; outside of that, I'm afraid I can't help you. Sorry.
You electrical voltage is not adequate buddy been there done that get new altonator❤
Didnt your tractor come with ac already installed?
Yes, it did come with air conditioning. However, that system was extremely problematic, overly complicated, and worked poorly when it worked at all. This all in one unit is much simpler, easier, and more effective.
@@Mighty-Quinn would that be the same system that on a series 2 versatile?
The series 2 tractors had a different system than series 1 tractors. The vents and controls were integrated into the cab ceiling, and I believe the condeser was placed at the front of the machine where the radiator is at. Series 1 Versatiles had air conditioning as an afterthought, it was standard (and better) on the series 2.
@@Mighty-Quinn makes sense now i thought the series 1 were like the series 2s
I had power window, power mirror, dome light, external courtesy light issues, but my radio worked. I thought it was a bad cluster
Thank you!!! That’s exactly what mine was. It looked ok until I tested it … now it have it all back!
Scrub your boots every couple of weeks with saddle soap, let them dry, then apply a conditioning cream or oil. It isn’t hard to care for leather boots and it will make them last for years. You should go through a couple of resoles before the uppers wear out.
Your drive tires are on backwards,
Yeah, I noticed that too. I assume the previous owner had it set up that way so he could back out of mud, with more positive traction. I sincerely doubt we ever cut when it's muddy in the field, but I'm just gonna leave the tires as they are. Swapping them looks like a lot of work that I don't want to do, haha.
we used o have a 1440 and later a 1488 we ran a 30 foot head on the1488 you need to make sure the bearings on the arms that run the sieves are good if one side has a bearing go out it will cause it to shake the screens apart .another thing the collars that couple the drive shaft to the planetary drive have splines in them they get wore out and have to be replaced . other than that we had good luck with them.
Thanks for the input, we will keep an eye on those bearings and collars.
We ran one of these for many years here in the UK. Best combine ever. A problem we had was broken sieves. Turned out worn bushings in the shaker arms was the cause. Another problem was leaks in the bottom of the grain tank where it had rusted away. Then a loss of engine power. That was the gauze filter in the fuel tank getting clogged with sludge.
Best video yet I've seen
Looking at picking one of these up that doesn't crank over for $300 - thinking key switch or safety switch, should be able to bypass them and make it run. Thank you for this video!
Glad you liked the video. Don't forget to check your grounds! I know that seems a silly thing to say, but I recently discovered a loose ground on mine, and that had been causing starting issues since last season. It was the one wire I never thought to check, by the hydraulic tank. Tightened it up, and everything works much better now. Best of luck to ya, $300 is a steal for one of these. They do a great job if they're working right.
Check out speed of air pistons
The brakes never worked on those. What type of concaves and grates are in it? That header will work on machines from 1978 to mid 2000 machines.
To be honest, I'm not sure how to tell what concaves and grates are in it. As in, I don't know what part of them to look at. I assume it has the small wire concaves, as the previous owner cut wheat with this machine. That assumption is based on the setting chart in the operator's manual. Not sure if that's the right aspect of the concave to look at. Good to know about the brakes and the header. I figured the header must've worked fine, or the previous owner would not have used it. I was wondering if there were some compatibility issues with this platform compared to a factory header. It's nice to hear it will work fine with other models. We finished cutting rye on Sunday, and after a couple adjustments, it worked great. We ended up setting it on position "1" rather than the recommended position "2". Is that a sign of worn concaves or something else? We were told rye was hard to thresh, and that a tighter setting might be necessary; but I don't know if that or (potentially) worn parts was a bigger factor. Any advice you have would be much appreciated. Thanks for the information!
@@Mighty-Quinn If you threshed rye and it worked it must have small wire concaves. You can stick your finger through the large wire concaves but not the small wire. We would set the concaves for Zero clearance to thresh wheat. Pull them up until the rotor starts ticking on the concaves then back it down just a bit. Then reset the gauge to zero. Glad it worked for you.
Where did you get your seal from?
I spoke too soon.
What made you decide to tear down the engine? Any chance you came across plug harness popping off?
I've done everything I can externally to try and get this engine to run correctly. At this point, it would be more cost effective to just tear it apart and rebuild it. I'm certain there is a severe internal failure on this engine. Not sure if it's a bent valve, collapsed lifter, cracked piston, broken ring, etc.; but whatever the problem is, I'll find it when I get it disassembled. And no, I have not had any issues with the glow plug harness. In fact, I've never had to put a glow plug in this engine. They've always worked, oddly enough.
Man were did you get the autel diagnostic tester and how much? I have a 2008 f250 6.4 turbo diesel that is throwing code p0302 number 2 misfire and my glow plugs are being blown out did a compression test and 0 compression from cylinder 2 so have everything took out to the valve cover off and thinking maybe it’s the injector or sensor or something fingers crossed but really would like to get that autel scan tool may help me figure this out a lot?
Sorry regrade that glow plug harness number 3 and 5 harness is popping out not glow plug
The scanner is an Autel MK808, and it came from Amazon. It's not the most advanced scan tool they have, but it will do a lot more than a cheap-o scan tool.
If the glow plug harness keeps popping out of the valve cover, those grommets may be worn to where they won't hold the harness in place. The connectors themselves might be bad too, and they just vibrate out over time. I've never had that problem, so I can't say anything for certain. Just my guess.
Just bought a ‘00 Excursion. My rear hatch wouldn’t open. This video was EXACTLY what I needed to fix it. Thanks man! Great video.
I have the White branded version. Not a bad mower, but the lack of parts availability has made it useless nowadays. No blades available anywhere, the use of expensive spindle bearings, and I need a replacement spindle that is NLA means it’s been a yard ornament for several years now. Mine had the Briggs 18 hp flat twin, I switched it to an 18 hp Vanguard. Mine also had the single tail wheel. I built a beam axle with a center pivot to replace it. It rode much better that way. With the single tail wheel, it rode like a bucking bronco! Your back took a beating.
My cable is broke😢. Have a repair video on that
Unfortunately, no. I tried to make a video about that the other day, but it didn't turn out good. I used some lockwire (0.02 inch) to replace the indicator cable. It does work, but not very well. Hope that helps.
Excellent video sir, very informative better than the professional videos, down to earth like talking to a friend who knows what he is doing.
Thank you, that means a lot to me. Glad you found it helpful.
If a turbo is "shot", can it still be rebuilt?
Absolutely, so long as the housing is good. The cartridges, bearings, vanes, unison ring, etc. can be replaced if necessary. It's still a few hundred dollars for some of these parts, but that's a lot cheaper than a $2000 turbocharger. The one(s) in this video seem to have good housings, so at some point I may rebuild them.
I get the mower stuck all the time, maybe it’s because I’m used to driving our ford 8n with bar tread that doesn’t get stuck easy, because after I’m done mowing almost half the time i end up getting it stuck beside our Garden. And it’s the worst the to have to walk up to dad and say, “I got the lawn mower stuck”
Thanks for yr video, I went to a hardware store also n it worked so for
The next video will be public tomorrow, don't worry if the link in the description doesn't work right away.
Important: th-cam.com/video/qofL73BTIww/w-d-xo.htmlsi=1nOl5o7J0RrulWiP
Some really really like the sound of their own voice...
You should’ve put a strait pipe on it!
I certainly wanted to, but that suggestion was vetoed. I guess hearing is important, or something like that.
@@Mighty-Quinn lol yep hearing is important
Sir please wake up this is what chemtrails create it wouldn't be nice if you got flooded out because this is what they are trying to do produce 😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂
That's man made they are trying to create a tornado dummy it's your government
Carbon on your injector is blow by and EGR. A delete, a nice well baffeled larger catch can with 1" ID tubing going to the inlet port and exit port is a must. Do not run smaller tubing or restrict the blow by flow in any way. I have a larger 4X7" DIY can well baffeled with SS wool pot scrubbys in to give the contaminants plenty to cling to. At the bottom of the can is a 3/8 ball check drain valve. This thing is mounted on the right hand frame rail just behind weare the passenger sits. I used two 4.5" muffler U bolts and saddles to mount it to the frame. Its solid and not going any were. The can is well filtered with the SS wool pot scrubbys so at this time it is vented to atmosphere. I don't see a benefit to mess with a very finely meatered air fuel ratio. That gives you the best cleanest combustion HP and MPG possible by pouring all the engine sewage back through the combustion chamber. A properly tuned deiesel engine should not give off black smoke if you have lots of filterd clean air, clean fuel and a professional tune.
Losen your back cab mount Bolts remove the rest and jack up the front clip and cab 6 or 8 " it will help. Then remove the inner fenders you will thank your self after watch not to stretch any thing the top rad hose must come off the stesting shaft trans cable E breake harness connection etc pretty much as though you are going to take the cab off. Then jack it up and put wooden blocks under the cab mounts. Do not use an air hammer on the cab mount bolts. You will destroy the body mounted cage nuts. Use a breaker bar then a long ratchet. You will be going through the excesive factory locktight. If you destroy the cage nuts it will then turn into a much larger job. Removing seats and carpet. But will be much more DIY friendly. See videos on cab removal. To understand what your in fore. A couple of guys that work well together can remove a cab or jack it up in as much as an hour. Then put it all back in the same time. To me and piece of mind it's well worth it. Take pictures of things before you take things apart. It will jog your memory when you put it back together. Whtch the cab removal a few times. 👍
GeoEngineering
My Mom growing up used to call this heat lighting (even if there is no such thing) she meant lightning with no rain. She was always right.
I have one of these to fix up. Just subscribed!
Go out and do a rain dance. You just might be surprised.
No inclement weather after this video was taken (5/1/24). We got an inch of rain last night though, so we're scrambling to get field work and dirt work done before it dries out again!
Absolutely 💯 beautiful mother nature
It is very scary 😢😢😱😱💔😵🤕
Looks like a space ship with smoke coming out of its exhaust.
That’s exactly what it is!! Aliens and we are welcoming them!! Jesus help us! 🙏🏻🙇🏼♀️