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Once you do a pull on the dyno the ECU freaks out even with traction control and you can no longer change modes without the ECU going back to normal which requires normal driving for a few minutes and then cycling the ignition. Also, what I have found out is the mode does not make a difference on the dyno because the torque request is the same between modes at 100% throttle so they will both show same HP.

Yeah, saw that after I did my install. I made it work though and didn't have to relocate the sensor. :)

Good results for charge pipes. Here is a link to the dyno vid. th-cam.com/video/dXj6nIvu2Ao/w-d-xo.html

no damage from that install but can't same the same after driving through a construction zone.. wished they used plastic gravel. :)

Yes, Oil pressure is one of the many sensors hondata can read and log.

@@koaticus sweet thats awesome then

Thx John

thx, just PCV for now. I might install CCV one when I upgrade the turbo.

The pipes themselves are bigger in diameter for more airflow and also all aluminum which keeps a more consistant pressure that flexible silicon hoses.. Think it was half inch difference on both sides. I measure them in the install vid I did.

Exhaust note was definitely deeper with the DP and front pipe installed.

here is the turbo blanket www.ptpturboblankets.com/collections/honda/products/honda-k20c-civic-fk2-fk8-fl5-type-r-turbo-blanket and here is the downpipe blanket (this only works on aftermarket DP's like TSP and RV6. www.ptpturboblankets.com/collections/honda-downpipe-blankets/products/acura-honda-5-downpipe-blanket

@@koaticus thanks brother

The only downside is that the parts are not fully utilized. Got the HVI and a tune now. Plan on a video to discuss all the differences I have experienced so far.. (traction will be a topic for sure)

Thats specifically why I went with TSP catted DP. other AM DP's throw CEL's because of secondary O2 and the way the ECU needs closed loop for proper dynamic values wanted all sensors working correctly.

Yeah, that's actually what messed me up because I noticed the right side of the bolt hole is a slot to slide the bolt up into it so didn't think it would have to go in first. PRL DP was too thick for the bolt to slide up so that will only work if you keep stock DP while changing RMM

No CEL with any of the bolt-ons I have installed. No change in turbo lag until the DP and FP install and the lag noticeably decreased.

Thank you Good to know. So you actually decreased the turbo lag with the DP and FP. I would have thought with a larger inter cooler, that would cause more delay in turbo boost. Nice job

coolio.. hope my video helped you so you don't make the mistakes I did. :)

here is the turbo blanket www.ptpturboblankets.com/collections/honda/products/honda-k20c-civic-fk2-fk8-fl5-type-r-turbo-blanket and here is the downpipe blanket (this only works on aftermarket DP's like TSP and RV6. www.ptpturboblankets.com/collections/honda-downpipe-blankets/products/acura-honda-5-downpipe-blanket

@@koaticus thank you

Coming soon, installed it the other night. need to get another dyno day.

Did Derek jailbreak yours? hesitate about mailing it. LOL

@@koaticushe did yes, although I don’t blame anyone one bit. I was nervous as all heck just bc we’re depending on USPS, ugh LOL

everything installed so far does not require tuning adjustments and no CEL with TSP downpipe. boost still limited to 19lbs.. (until I installed the HVI) video coming soon.

Yeah I am teetering on whether or not to jalibreak it.

I originally intended just to do the turbo blanket which has slight performance gains in spool time and boost based on this study (repositories.lib.utexas.edu/items/76344ae4-f923-4e30-94ff-45d6a1187191) mind you the study was done on a huge cummings diesel turbo and the gains on this small turbo are probably negligible, but same concepts apply. Theory is it will also extend the life of under the hood components. The way the stock heat shields are mounted removal of the top turbo heat shield would leave the entire top of the DP exposed so it only made sense to also get the lava blanket for the DP. I will be dropping the install video later this weekend with the new dyno results.

@@koaticus Gotcha that makes sense. I was thinking of just keeping all of the stock heat shields on the new DP, but I understand if you wanted to run a blanket on the hot side of the turbo, then you would need to blanket the rest of the downpipe. I think I also saw a company car running the whole blanket like that, can't remember if it was TSP, PRL, or someone else. I appreciate you making these videos on your ITS. I'm hoping to pick one up in a couple months, and these videos are keeping me sane until then.

Almost 5 months. Yes, I ordered from TSP back in November and received the first downpipe in the beginning of February however it was not Cerakoted so had to send it back and got the Cerakoted one last week. That is why I already had the titanium bolts from the first shipment.

@@koaticus Okay, thank you. So that's a normal shipping time. It's gonna be a while until I get mine.

Yes, I felt the difference but thought it was in my head until I took it to the dyno and saw the numbers. check out the dyno here th-cam.com/video/dXj6nIvu2Ao/w-d-xo.html

Obviously from the video, I work on my own cars. Bolt-ons with non-modified ECU's do not void drivetrain warranty and manufacturer recommended 600 miles break-in which I did 1000 miles before going over 4k on the tach.. Not sure why you're beefing when I am trying to share insights for others wanting to upgrade their ITS. And yes these cars do stand the test of time with proper maintenance, but your opinion is your opinion even if your post kind of sounds ridiculous.

@@koaticus You are doing God's work, hoss. Really appreciate your DE5 content.

​@koaticus are you sure it doesn't mess with the warranty? I would really like to do a little to my car

I am fairly confident with all the bolt-ons in place I will definitely get the most out of a tune. No plans on upgraded internals but yes, I believe there is room to grow.

I too sometimes hear what sounds like a buzzing.. kinda like a house fly buzzing and bumping into a window but the sound seems like its coming from within the dash.. I have tried to video the sound a few times and it is almost not discernable in the video audio but I can hear it cleary in the car.. it is easily reproducible going about 35 MPH in second gear and the giving it gas the sound becomes apparently around 4500rpms..

@@koaticus update…. Drop my car off Thursday morning picked it up Friday evening. According to Acura and their employee forums. The issue caused by “HVAC lines” now touching and causing the noise. So after i picked it up…. Now it’s making a raspy/ drone sound now at 3000-3500 RPM. Car has now been at dealer Monday-going into Wednesday with no ETA. I guess delete tried adding “foam” but now car sounds like shit…. Well I’ll update once I get car back.

Its the heater core rattle against the heater box. The heater box's mount might be broken. Tell your dealer that. Check on integraforums a lot of people have same issues i believe.

@@huytruong7370 update I’m drop off my car for the third time. Same issue around 4.5k rpm letting off the gas the whole dash near steering wheel rattles like crazy. I’ll let know your suggestions. But the delete has had my car for about 8 days now. Might have to do research on 🍋 laws

@@XxOrlandoxX209 Did this ever get resolved for you? I know rattles and buzzing are a pretty common problem on DE5/FL5s.

got my "accessories" from www.alldiscountparts.com here is link to front emblem.. www.alldiscountparts.com/oem-parts/acura-front-emblem-gloss-black-a-8f203s5200?c=bD0xJm49U2VhcmNoIFJlc3VsdHM%3D

Thx, looking forward to getting the exhaust side on and re-test to see those numbers before we start tuning. Still pretty stoked with those gains on stock Tune.

@@koaticus14 hp with just intake ??

@@Lawtypes This dyno was a combined result of the PRL titanium inlet, PRL intercooler and HPS charge pipes.. intake is still stock in this dyno,.

I can tell you that the sum of the 3 intake side bolt-on parts have already made a noticeable difference and the Dyno yesterday confirms it. (putting that content together which may answer your question in more detail)

thanks spent about 9 hours prep work and about 4 hours applying, proper wash, iron decon, clay, then orbital polish before. use Adams Advanced Graphene ceramic coating..

It also took me a while, 13 hours total time prep and application. Very much worth it in my opinion

Thanks, watched your delivery vid this past weekend. Hope your NSX doesn't get jealous! :)

Thanks, definitely going to try!