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FaberUSA
เข้าร่วมเมื่อ 1 มี.ค. 2018
2017 Gibson LP Traditional, Larry Corsa Conversion
2017 LP Traditional in Honey Burst. Corsa Conversion CCLP-007. Full Faber Hardware and Corsa electronics conversion. An exceptionally vibrant flamed maple top that easily could have been put on a 59 Reissue. The top’s movement is spectacular - thin and wide ribbon flames that change constantly in different lighting. It has subtle vertical grain pattern too. In Excellent Overall Condition with extremely minor signs of play wear, most significant is a spot of buckle rash on the back - see close up photos on Corsa-FaberUSA website (httrps://faberusa.com) or Corsa Guitar website (corsaguitars.com).
This Trad sports Corsa Manalishi Pickups with a Push-Pull Pot for the Out Of Phase (OOP) engagement. It has all the Faber Hardware upgrades. A Nitro finished solid mahogany body with maple top. Neck shape: 50’s Rounded - 24.75″ scale maple set neck with 22-frets - 12″-radius rosewood fingerboard. Full solid body (no weight relief at all), weighing 8 lbs., 10 oz (3.91 Kg.). Only $1,999 USD.
This Trad sports Corsa Manalishi Pickups with a Push-Pull Pot for the Out Of Phase (OOP) engagement. It has all the Faber Hardware upgrades. A Nitro finished solid mahogany body with maple top. Neck shape: 50’s Rounded - 24.75″ scale maple set neck with 22-frets - 12″-radius rosewood fingerboard. Full solid body (no weight relief at all), weighing 8 lbs., 10 oz (3.91 Kg.). Only $1,999 USD.
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Faber® USA/ABR-1 "PLUS" conversion posts for Gibson ABR-1
มุมมอง 24K4 ปีที่แล้ว
Faber Bridge options, using the new USA/ABR-1 "PLUS" conversion bridge posts, for 2017 and later Gibson USA model guitars with ABR-1 bridges.
Faber Bridge Options - USA/ABR-1 "EZ" Bridge Posts
มุมมอง 4.4K4 ปีที่แล้ว
Showing the Faber® Bridge options for new Gibson USA Guitars with ABR-1 bridges, from 2017 to present.
Compare USA/ABR-1 and Nashville Bridge
มุมมอง 27K4 ปีที่แล้ว
How to tell if you have a Gibson Nashville Bridge or Gibson ABR-1 Bridge, on 2017 and later Gibson Les Paul guitars.
New Gibson ABR-1 Bridge
มุมมอง 18K4 ปีที่แล้ว
Video showing the difference between the ABR-1 bridge on newer NON CUSTOM SHOP guitars and which Faber® parts will work.
Installing Faber® Wrap-Lock™ locking studs
มุมมอง 3.9K6 ปีที่แล้ว
How to install the Faber® Wrap-Lock™ locking studs for wraparound bridge.
The hammer over the guitar is a little, uh, unseemly. But the bridges are GREAT!
Can’t believe that this is the best Faber can do. $300 hardware and can’t create a useful video with sound. 😒
That bushing extraction method works well, until the day you punch through the back of a guitar. Instead, set up a puller with that screw you have through a small socket. With a little thin cardboard on top you won’t damage any part of the guitar.
Kits don’t come with instructions and these videos are so vague. Come on now.
That stupid retaining clip on the ABR is a terrible design. They get weaker every time you adjust a saddle, and are impossible to install once its got the slightest bend. Once that happens, your saddles can just fall out I always get rid of the ABR. Why would they go back to them in 2017?
Why on this so expensive guitars,bridge is wobbles?
I put the #3117 kit on my 22 Les Paul ‘50s, and it was very effective. The Gibson ABR-1 bridge that came on the guitar works fine with this kit. This got rid of the ice pick highs and gave my Lester a more vintage sound and feel.
😎👍🥇
My first SG, A 1991 special, I got brand new and it came with the ABR-1. My second and third SGs (2010 standard and 2013 61 reissue) both came with the Nashville, which I very quickly came to dislike and subsequently switched out for ABR-1s.
Larry is the professor on this subject , he's been a great help to me over the years. Super nice guy too. His FABER parts are on all my Gibsons .
Can I just say that I replaced all the hardware on my Les Paul junior with Faber 🙈 absolutely brilliant equipment 👍🏻👍🏻 I used vintage hardware. Sound is incredible. I’m not a guitar technician just a player, it was an easy change out. Just my opinion by the way. 👍🏻👍🏻
Will it go with a Epiphone inspired by Gibson ES 335?
Thanks
Do you guys also make roller bridges? Would like to do this conversion but also use a roller bridge instead
Buyer beware. These posts do not fit Gibson ABR 1 or Nashville bridges.
yes they do
he literally showed it fitting in the video
The posts that I purchased did not fit my Gibson bridges. I believe that the bridge used in the video is a Faber brand. @@looking_33
The newer ABR-1 biggest have studs in the top of rhe guitar like the Nashville? The two ABR-1 guitars i have, look like the screws go right into the top without studs.
The locking mechanism is great but the rest isn't. It's nowhere near as good as TonePros or even Gibson's Nashville bridge for that matter despite the lack of locking mechanism. The little e clips are rubbish compared to the little sprung wires on TonePros and Gibson's bridges which are better than ABR1 hence the reason for them. Using e clips is a horrible workaround. They wear out and come loose, wearing out the screws as well. The saddles also begin to have sideways movement after a while of adjusting intonation. Initially the screws are far too tight but that soon changes. Also, why are the screws an odd size compared to any other bridges? I have bought cheap Chinese bridges that are at least as good as this.
My 2022 Gibson SG Standard came with a Nashville bridge instead of an ABR-1. Which sort of bummed me out, I then dropped the money on an ABR-1 bridge and conversion posts from Gibson.
Did you hear any difference?
@@dimitris70 I did, especially because I have nylon saddles over nickel; I only chose nylon over nickel because of my b7 bigsby that I have on it. It aided in tuning stability. It warmed the tone up substantially and gave it better resonance.
So you prefer nylon saddles on an abr 1 No matter if have bigsby or not?
@@dimitris70 no, I am only running the nylon saddle’s because of my bigsby. Otherwise I would have nickel
still no audio. talkies were invented a century ago.
I have had experience with the bridge post bushing on some Gibson's that where so lose you could just flip over the axe and they just fall out! Faber Hardware from Germany is the SHIT! Forget that 'TonePros' Crap!
If the bridge wobbles like that and does not have a tight press fit... well, your Les Paul will never be in tune.
No Audio, please reload video with audio
Remove the Epiphone bridge, studs, tailpiece, inserts, and throw them away. For the ‘59 Epiphone Les Paul, get four of the Faber steel metric inserts, the ABRM bridge with metric EZ posts, and the aluminum ‘59 tailpiece with metric standard studs. Install The guitar will look the same, although the Faber hardware quality almost looks too good for an Epi, and sound ten times better. I like traditional, so I didn’t do any locking stuff.
It looks like somebody put an ABR-1 onto Nashville posts. It's nice that new hardware is available to correct situations like that. I no longer own any USA-made guitars, so I haven't run into anything like this. I like guitars made by Agile, Ibanez and Epiphone, and the bridges on all three seem to be interchangeable. The cheap hardware available on Guitar Fetish and Musiclily also fits well on these imports. So, even though I may not personally have any issues, you never know. Someday I might pick up a used Gibson, and the info provided here might come in handy. Thanks for the video!
ABR-1 is the Original Just Leave it a lone !!!
Wow
Sir, could I ask a question? I am in the process of installing an abr1 on a new build. Can you tell me, on a les paule style guitar, should the bridge posts be drilled perpendicular to the back plane of the body, or perpendicular to the neck? Much appreciation!
Perpendicular to the fretboard plane. Good question. Sorry nobody had time to answer you.
I have a 2000 LP Std with (I think) a Nashville bridge. 2nd time now the little triangular shaped tension retaining clip on the high E saddle screw has popped off. Immed before that, it was buzzy, and now my B string is acting all buzzy and I anticipate it to fail as well. I just removed the tailpiece and it doesnt even say Gibson. I guess I'm looking to replace the bridge and tailpiece and dont know where to start.
The tune o matics with the clip are ABR style.
As much as I prefer the look of the Abr-1, the Nashville Tuneomatic is a superior design. More adjustable intonation and will not lean over time. It’s important to distinguish that the new Gibson’s that come with an ABR-1, they are not true to the original as they screw into bushings like the Nashville rather than posts that go directly into the wood.
It all depends on the guitar and the setup. it really doesn't matter which one you have on your gibby. If the guitar is intonated and playing nicely it's all that matters.
I’ve only had one guitar that screwed straight into the body, and that sounded and felt amazing.
When you order the bushings do they come as a pair, or are they sold individually? The description on the website doesn’t specify.
Per pair.
You can just turn the bridge around so the screws are where you want
My 81 gibson les paul deluxe sounds awsome now. Thank you.
Just for curiosity because i ordered these yesterday, the posts and the wheels are just plated brass right?
I used the faber e-serts with a tonepros locking tuneomatic, worked great
My standard LP from 2019 came with the Tonepros AVR II. Might this be expected given the Year, like mixing abr-1 or avr2’s?
I have a 2018 sg and I just now figured out that the true historic no-wire abr bridge I bought is not going to work I need to take out these old bushings and I want to use my new abr how do I buy one of those tools ???
Looks like it's been a year since you inquired about the stud removal tool. You can get either the same size threaded rod/machine bolt say 3 inch and therapy the wing nut all the way to the top then screw a nut right up under the wing nut and tighten them against each other. This is called creating a jam nut. If you Google jam nut, you will see the configuration. I needed to do this on a guitar the holes were a little deep and couldn't quite get tool all the way to bottom. That got tge old anchor out easily like video shows. Just needed more depth.
How does it make it better?I tried a new callaham bridge,made my les paul too bright,sounded like garbage,i took it off.
Thank you for your video. I bought a 2008 traditional. The bridge saddles have no string slots is that normal? There are no markings on the underside either. I’m guessing it’s a Nashville bridge or an aftermarket one. What’s your thoughts? Thanks
What did you do with the saddles?
I bought a set and i stead of hammer in they were screw in and they sucked to install.
Why is faber bridge better then regular gibson abr?
I think it has do with the metal...in the 50's they used nickel and for many years following the famed 50's, gibson changed to steal bridges I believe, to save on cost. However, only recently have they reverted back to using nickel. According to the specs anyhow. I have a 2019 standard and the abr bridge looks chrome, even thought the specs say nickel. Also the shape of the saddles, gibson's are pointy and the older ones were more robust and flat. I haven't bought any faber products yet, but I'd like to soon. Also the post metal was changed, the 50's used brass and then again, over the years gibson changed that to steal, because it was cheaper. Not sure what the official differences are though...lol
@@spankeyguitars8457 Steel not "steal".
@@brothersnippy1373 from this day forward, you will no longer be called BS!...you shall now be known as the man who auto corrects autocorrect.
i ordered this kit for my 2019 les paul standard and the post wouldnt go all the way in i had a hell of a time to get it back out but once i did i had to grind a little of the bottom then it fit perfect against the body.measure measure lol
Hmmm I've listened to a lot of demo's and the saddles are what make the most difference Other components not really so much IMO
Make the same thing WIDER to improve intonation....and make it with ROLLERS to prevent string breakage and get rid of the lousy Kluson tunners they are garbage...lastly, bring back the volute on the back of the neck
making the bridge wider means you can't screw the tailpiece all the way down. intonation with an abr1 is fine. if you need to change the adjustment range for a string, you can flip the saddle in the other direction
If you learn about, and incorporate the "Gibson Mandolin String Post" method, and the gears are snug and the string slots are cut properly for the string gauge and finally, a little nut slot lubrication you will be able to perform 2 step bends with no tuning issues. Oh, slightly bevel the string slots on the nut that face down the fingerboard and towards the tuners, especially on the wound strings.
I wanted to ask, can I use this system on a Les Paul with a factory TonePros TP6 or on a USA Gibson SG with factory Nashville? I could use the INsert system, but I want to change the bridge to an ABR-1 and as far as I know, the INsert studs are thicker than the ABR-1 holes.
Yes, the studs on the iNsert for Nashville are too big for an ABR-1. The other more serious issue is the post spacing. ABR-1 is narrower than Nashville, so you can't fit an ABR-1 to a guitar with Nashville spacing.
@@faberusa4256 The solution for the spacing issue could be using the Faber ABRN bridge? Thank you for your answer btw
@@gianlucadecicco5921 Yes, ABRN is for Nashville spacing and the hole size is correct with the iNsert.
@@faberusa4256 Thanks for your help, you saved me from wasting money. I'm going for the insterts + abrn.
Are the Faber USA parts actually made in the USA? Not like reboxed or anything....but actually made by an American worker?
Faber is a German company and the parts are all imported from Germany. The "About" page on our website explains it. faberusa.com/about-faber/
@@faberusa4256 pretty bad we have to get correct parts from the Germans for an American guitar...shame on Gibson...you need some leadership, and basic understanding of what Les Paul was about
@@shaneeubanks2323 the saddles are the worst offender from Gibson and make the most difference to my ear The originals had a wider flatter peak and we're a little bigger maybe more mass but seem to give a warmer tone than the pointy saddle tops they make now Such a simple thing you would think Gibson would get it right
This is a nice setup. My only complaint is that the threaded section is too long and the studs protrude over the top of the bridge with the action set to Gibson spec. The studs are sharp and uncomfortable. I thought about cutting them down with a Dremel cutoff wheel but don’t want to break the nickel plating.
i have a 2019 les paul standard 60s model with the factory ABR-1. what is the direct replacement bridge and brass post system you offer for my guitar. Also does changing these parts take resale value from the guitar?
So what is the tonal differences between all these bridges?
Dont confuse people. Its not real abr1
Why?
@@dimitrisaivaliotis5616 Because the way it's mounted. Original ABR1 posts mounted direct to the body. The newer ones mount to studs that are pressed into the body. Much more stable over time
it says abr1 on the fucking hardware, so what is it?
I bought recently an abr brigde for my gibson les paul but i cant put the 100 % of the post inside the cavity? what can i do? there is no lutheir in my city
Use a drill bit and hand twist until deep enough. Helps if you have a caliper.
@@tonetherod5943 or grind a bit of the new one down a touch To my ear the saddles make the most difference The peak on originals are flatter and wider Seems to give a warmer tone Check out Johan Segborne demo's will show the results
Can i use it with gibson es 335 1978 ?
Hi, Eran. Most likely your ES has a Nashville bridge system, so the USA/ABR-1 would not work for you. You can go to this webpage to see the parts available for guitars with Nashville bridges: faberusa.com/products-for-gibson-guitars-with-nashville-bridges/
So you lock the bridge After you set height? You didn't set the height -