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I was running it today and saw your comment. My infrared thermometer showed between 4 and 500 degrees F on the exhaust. But I can touch it for a couple seconds! So I measured it with a meat thermometer and it got a little above 200 degrees F. At the wall flange, it's a little above 100 degrees. So likely the wrap lowers the temp in the outside of the pipe by about 200 degrees.

Mine probably looked dirtier due to the orange bucket. I did another "advanced" cleaning video (linked in pinned comment) where after the cleaning, I poured some of the vinegar into a clear bowl, and it was mostly clear with some slight cloudiness. I have an old house, but I am on municipal water. Thanks for watching!

Thanks for watching! Both ASTM D2665 and D1785 are SOLID CORE sch40 PVC which is very important for this application. I believe D1785 can handle higher pressure (and maybe heat) than D2665. That said, all my piping is rated ASTM D2665. I never got any specific guidance from Rheem that I needed D1785 pipe or fittings; the exhaust doesn't seem hot enough or high pressure enough to warrant it. But keep in mind, I am a DIYer and neither a licensed plumber or professional support tech. So don't consider me an authority on the subject. Call Rheem support and see what they say. Good luck on your implementation.

​@@FixItScotty Awesome. Thanks! It appears 2665 is the rating for Drain, waste, VENT applications. and Charlotte brand helped me figure out a 2665 elbow can be used to connect to a 1785 pipe, and will say 2665 on it, even if 1785 is not printed on the elbow. Another lesson learned.

Thanks! Yes, my previous EV conversion was over 10 years ago... well before I started my channel.

I forget the size. But I put a link to the product in the video description.

Sorry I don't, but there are other videos that show that. Here's one example: th-cam.com/video/5HC2V4UvWiM/w-d-xo.htmlsi=bcMoqQ0Win9zPC2j. Thanks for watching!

That's true. I actually have a 'Little buddy' and used it a lot in my old garage. The two advantages of this diesel heater is that it blows the hot air to circulated it and it doesn't require ventilation like the propane heater.

@FixItScotty they have a fan on the big buddy pro, there is an O2 safety shut off and the garage isn't sealed the best anyway. This way I don't have to drill a hole for exhaust. There's a bunch of ways to get more heat off the exhaust from the diesel heaters before dumping it but I'm not heating it all the time just a few hours here and there. So that's a lot of extra work for a diesel heater for me

@@spacebike420 Good to know the propane heaters are improved. And I agree, it is a bit of work to modify the exhaust to make these diesel heaters efficient.

@@FixItScotty they still seem the best option on something mobile with diesel available though. I'll probably put on in the truck topper just for camping.

The first drive should be soon if the winter isn't too cold. I still need to fix brakes and register the car to drive on the road. Otherwise, it does move and I'm very close to the finish! Hope you are doing well and staying warm.

Great vid Scotty, I didn't realize you had done this before....I joined your channel when you were building your new shop lol

Thanks!! The only reason I haven't had issues with the condensate is because that basin sink (where my water softener discharges) is not level and always has a little standing water in tub. So by the time the condensate gets to the main stack, it's pretty well diluted. But, you're right, I should add a condensate neutralizer to prevent problems.

The manual recommends turning off both gas and power before flushing, but turning the power off or unplugging it is sufficient. Shutting off the gas is a backup in case someone turns the power on accidentally.

Good to know. If I have to replace the other side, I will keep that in mind. Thanks!

Please do take what you like! Now that temps are dropping, I am using it again and am so thankful I have this heater. Good luck on your implementation!

Thanks!!

Before I started using this heavily, I made a follow-up video with several enhancements; one being the exhaust. Check out that video linked in the video description. Thanks for watching!

You are correct. But it depends on the brand and model. I discuss this in my "advanced flush" video that is linked in the video description and in the pinned comment.

I don't know. Perhaps you can find a parts manual online. It could be a metric thread.

I can't promise anything, but I should have it done in the next couple weeks.

The smaller o-rings that seat the hot and cold openings are much more important. You're probably right; the larger o-ring was likely preinstalled around the mixer body if you didn't see it. It just presses against the stainless outer ring to prevent overall leaks from the mixer. If there are no leaks, you should be fine.

Like my brother mentioned in the video, the part number depends on the model and serial number of your oven and they vary. Call this distributor with your serial number (he showed where to find it on your oven) and they will give you the part numbers. www.midwestdistributing.com/OpenPages/Owner.aspx

It sure is. With regard to this car build, it has officially transitioned from blue collar to white collar work.

I believe the documentation says that output 5 cannot handle passing more than 1.5 amps through it. But you can still use it to control a relay that switches the power to the device. In that way, the out5 wire would go to the positive side of the relay coil.

Nice! I am following another person on diyelectriccar who is using the A123 modules and Thunderstruck MCU to get advice on connecting these. Feel free to join that discussion; www.diyelectriccar.com/threads/1991-crx-conversion-rebuild.210284/

Yup, just open a hot water tap and wait for it to stop sputtering.

That's good advise. I believe that Vevor gauge kit came with a cheap refrigerant detector. I may take the caps off and see if it beeps. I have seen those Schraeder valve replacement tools and may pick one up.

You are correct. I linked a follow-up video where I fixed this among other fixes and upgrades.

My brain could, but my mouth couldn't 😜

@@FixItScotty Yeah, it was a funny little slip that we humans are prone to do, but at least you were able to put the right info on the screen. I thought it was funny because I ran my entire house water supply on a 1 hp shallow well pump for years.

The instructions recommend turning off the gas valve and power. I just turn off the power. The gas valve is an extra precaution to ensure the burners don't fire while cleaning it, but it's not necessary if you have the power off.

That makes total sense. It's the same reason high efficiency natural gas furnaces draw makeup air from the outside. I will probably see how it goes this winter and then make that change next spring. Thanks!

Good for you! Yeah, my orange bucket really colors my solution. In my advanced video (linked at the end), I pour my finished solution into a clear bowl. It's really not that cloudy. It has a blue-green tinge from copper corrosion and maybe a little bit of gray cloudiness. But otherwise it is clear.

@@FixItScotty i didnt even have a tablespoon on sediment

Yes, I mounted a large, oscillating fan high on that back wall. That helps move the heat around. Thanks for watching!

Yes, if the pilot won't stay on, it is usually a bad thermocouple. Occasionally it could be the pilot pressure is too weak (there's an adjustment on the gas valve) or the thermocouple is too far from the pilot flame and needs to be adjusted on the pilot rail.

There is an adjustment screw on the gas valve to set the pilot pressure. It could be either not enough flame to satisfy the thermocouple (adjust the screw) or the thermocouple is too far from the pilot flame and needs to be adjusted.

​@@FixItScottythank u

It wasn't clear to me.... I tried both the 4" drum setting and the "larger than 4" setting. It seemed to result in a subtle speed change. So if you have a tapered drum and aren't sure which of the drum setting to use; I just tried out both settings and picked the one that worked best.

That is a great idea. If mine ever slips, I will do that.

I didn't need the bottom sensors installed when I set the up and down limits. I installed the sensors after that in order to test the remotes.

If the LEDs on your sensors aren't lit up, I would think there must be an issue with the wiring. Review how I did it again starting around 12:30. Make sure the wire isn't broken (maybe it was stapled too hard). Make sure you have pushed the stripped ends into the "Safety beam" holes on the main unit like I described using the small screwdriver to lock them into the connector.

Not sure. I would probably just stick with vinegar or an approved descaler product.

Thanks Frank! I have a thick plexiglass panel that will cover the top. I will also add some panels to the sides to protect the bus bars. Still more room to iterate and improve...