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.22lr S&W model 17

My favorite is S&W 460 XVR.

Ooooohhk

Looks like a python beautiful

Okay!

Thank you great information that i will definitely use. Great video.

If you didn't know... without his amazing elucidation... for shame.

The new colt python snubby is fantastic

Okay?

Ok.

How do you reset the timing

ok

Hey man, I was wondering if you know any Daisy BB gun gunsmiths? I have an old model 1200 pistol given to me by my grandfather, but it does not work anymore

Well I wonder if you can fix an 1877 Colt Single double action okay😅

The only revolver I will ever buy would be Ruger. The Colt SA Army revolvers are butt ugly and the S&W DAs are too thin-wall. I love a heavy revolver!

OK

Ok

my favourite revolver is Colt Python without a doubt followed by a Korth revolver. My 4 inch Colt is from 1970, wooden grips and orig. box and papers. I got this from a pensioner in 1988. I will never give it out of my hands until I passed away. greetings from Germany......

Most of this has been through a game of telephone and is either inaccurate or incomplete information. The first checks for timing, are to do with wear. No, a dirty gun will not time better when clean. If it times dirty, it will time more consistently when clean, but it also may then be consistently out of time. The hand and the flats of the ratchet pad can (through surface wear) become shorter to the point that the cylinder will not fully rotate. Gunk in the ratchet pad will mask this condition, INCONSISTENTLY by filling the wear gap to an extent. These tests SHOULD be done with a small amount of drag applied to the cylinder in a counter rotational direction with one finger. If the gun is out of time, it will roll back one chamber when the trigger is released. If a gun does this, it doesn't necessarily mean its dangerous, however because of wear its getting there and if it were used in a self defense encounter, may miss fire if someone were to grab the gun, or if the cylinder was to otherwise heavily bind. Keep in mind, cylinders of most revolvers are generally speaking, fairly dense, and will retain an amount of rotational movement through inertia that will give it a "boost" when the trigger is pulled with normal force and not feathered. this will allow the stop to engage before the hammer fully drops. In addition, the lockup test shown at the end means nothing relative to barrel-chamber alignment. It simply indicates that the stop or "bolt" and hand are in synch with each other across the indexing of the cylinder. Pythons are timed partially off of what's called a rebound lever that has its pivot point in the grip frame and follows the hand up and down, and serves several other functions. One of the various ways to adjust this part is to move it fore and aft within the frame. This is done by using a brass or lead block, or steel block masked with rawhide or nylon to bend the grip frame forward or rearward relative to the rest of the frame, in a controlled and nearly imperceptible amount. A python that was dropped on the toe of the grip can display timing issues stemming from the rebound lever being moved too far forward. This is why it's vitally important to be honest with a gunsmith if they ask you if the gun has been dropped. It can save you several hours in labor of pinpointing the issue. The lockup check performed is correct to the python, and any other revolver using Colt's style lock work in that it should not move, period. This is because the trigger stops against parts that stack in a loop against the cylinder stop (or bolt). The hand, moved upwards directly by the trigger, is unable to move because the cylinder stops rotating when it has pushed the engaged stop against one side of its window in the frame. The side of the stop and where it bears in the frame CAN wear, and change barrel-chamber alignment WITHOUT failing this check. As wear occurs, the trigger stops farther and farther rearward, all the while consistently passing this check and advancing the index of the cylinder. Nearly every other revolver design will have some movement, especially the S&W style and similar designs when cheaply made. It takes someone who knows what they're doing to know how much movement is considered allowable. In addition this speaks nothing to frames that are bent in the crane pocket (a somewhat frequent occurrence that almost no one knows how to fix anymore, let alone detect) nor does it speak to crane alignment itself. These issues are almost imperceptible when present to most gunsmiths, and invisible to 99% of end users. A complete timing and alignment check should include a tool called a ranging rod, which are caliber specific, and are sized to the lands of the rifling with one end faced off to a sharp 90* corner. This rod is brought in and out of the chamber's mouth through the barrel at the muzzle, with the gun at full lock with the trigger pinned to the rear. A gun that is out of range will catch the rod on the corner and 'tick' as the rod goes into the mouth of the chamber. While the back end is still technically "in time" it will spit fragments from the barrel-cylinder gap because the lock work itself is not a complete story when it comes to time and range. Lastly, the part on the timing of the stop (or bolt) reengagement halfway between indexed chambers is complete hokum. This timed action is frequently advanced or r3t4rded based on a guns given use. Stops. . .Bolts, whatever, are frequently timed to nearly immediately reengage on guns designed for defensive use and cowboy action. This was very common on old police guns. *YANK YANK YANK* gives the cylinder a good amount of rotational velocity through each indexing stroke. Bringing the stop back into engagement faster was done to improve reliability that was fowled under this condition due to both the rotational velocity of the cylinder skipping past the stop and the sideways pull of the shooter's trigger finger, respective of right or left hand firing. The other issue this causes is hand disengagement, where the hand (which is attached to the trigger) rides the inside of the frame or side plate straight up and does not or only partially engages the ratchet pad. The test for this is to pull the trigger heavily to the side, and rearward enough to disengage the stop, but no further. The cylinder is spun on it's axis, and the smith listens for 'sing' or the rapid clicking noise made by the hand as the ratchet free spins under it. (re: bolt/stop, I habitually have always referred to this part as a stop, maybe incorrectly, who knows. Its not important the term so much as you know what the part in question is in any revolver. Part nomenclature varies from mfg to mfg, and sometimes gun to gun)

If you take a drink every time he says ok, you’ll be drunk by the end of the video, OK.

great explanation. thanks!

Toastmasters can help

An older Rossi m971 2 1/5 barrel interarms importer, bought in 1994.

Favorite , my Smith & Wesson 617 stainless 6” !

Favorite revolver of mine is the Dan Wesson model 15-2, .357 magnum.

I just bought a python. Love it

One thing to note on newer smiths without a ratchet pin is to check timing properly you need to have empty brass or dummy rounds loaded in the cylinder as they take up the slack due to not being pinned to the cylinder like the older syle

Gunfather does amazing work

Nope

In the old days they used Charcosl bluing. See Foxfire

Needs more okay.

Thanks, I only have one revolver it’s a S&W model 37 2”! It’s my first revolver! It’s a old one!!

Favorite revolver S&W K Frame

Smith & Wesson Model 19 4" barrell carried as a police officer years ago still my favorite. Do not like the new release of the model 19.

Ok!

Bro you got to stop saying "ok" every other word. Ok?

Any Korth is pretty sexy to me and I would like to have one for my favorite

Those brown Pony grips are DA BOMB!!!! Is that "rusted" gutta percha?

Ok. Ok?

Thank you for the OK video.

Every 4th word is "OK"......

I watch your show all the time I live in Tennessee an I'd love to come to your shop in Montana some time an check it out

I have a Dan Wesson 357 Maximum SuperMag with a cylinder timing issue. It looks like the small pawl engages the cylinder at the proper timing in both single and double action, but the cylinder still lacks a small bit of rotation before fully engaging. When the gun fires, shrapnel comes flying out between the barrel and cylinder. The cylinder is free spinning and the clearance between the barrel and cylinder is correct. If you pull the hammer back very aggressively in single action mode, the cylinder engages sometimes?

*Smith & Wesson*

I wanted to finish this video. I really did. I need you to go to a community college and take a basic public speaking class, because listening to this video was like eating a cookie full of metal shavings.

Thanks for a great video. I’m learning how revolvers work.

Got my diploma in Okay Oklahoma.

Okay.

OK

I carried a Smith and Wesson 686 during the 80's as my duty revolver. I still carry an airwieght as a backup. My favorite all around vevolver, the tried and true S&W model 10.