วีดีโอ

Thanks, i have mods planned but incorporating 'free' mods helped until then. There are shortfalls (like all) but it does work. Agree the pinched rails an issue, not really issue but do limit. IF i were to start from scratch I think id try to flatten the front frame rails a bit, have to mod shock mounts but I think 50% doable. I believe I seen an scx24 frame used. If I were to buy, trying to keep stock frame is to use second frame, cut so they over lap past shocks, bolt together, would place inside of rails where outside is now. But 20 bucks. Many ways this likely be done- depends on how much effort spent but thats half the hobby. I'm calling good for now, in process of trying to fit an old Parma 50's panel truck body.

@@-AnEv942 I guess if the whole suspension system(shocks and links) won't allow much more up travel anyway, then I guess it's not gonna do much mod'ding the rails. If you do try bending the stock rails, be very cautious. Depending on the series of aluminum they're made from and how it was heat treated, they might be quite hard and could snap on you with very little movement put in. I've definitely seen scx24 chassis used. If you've got an old stock one kicking around, it might make a good first trial one to play around with. Thanks for the videos anyway. They've helped with desiding on getting one as a no cost or cheap to upgrade guest rig for friends. And my LHS actually has them in and at a reasonable $180.

@@wingnutbert9685 ya one of those ideas need to accept possible total failure :) $180? um are you in Canada? Unless your looking at a 10th scale thats a bit high, typical retail is $119.

@@-AnEv942 Yep, Canadian. $180 (+ add 13% tax....) seems to be the usual price up here from what I can tell. Some companies seem to adjust prices for the Canadian market. Others just convert from USD and make stuff too expensive up here. And ordering from one of the cool boutique small companies down there would make ya cry. Stuff from someone like Mofo will be two and a half times the price by the time we convert USd to CDNd, shipping, boarder duties, then all the tax. Free trade ain't so free..... I don't even think we got the $99 deal Redcat offered when they first released the A18. (that be about $142 Cdn) $119US is about $171 Cdn. Then duties, shipping, etc. $180 is about expected. But adjusting for our market and economy, it really should be about $140. At least the weather is nice here on the Island! LOL!!!!

Pushing the button thru hood was funny, actually kinda nice. Could put a piece of strapping tape under hood so button didn't wear thru paint. However in stock form, motor plugged into top, hood would touch the plug (& or the ant wire) and not reach button 11:52 . I also saw flipping and it turning itself off 🤣. Decasing receiver save few grams, frees up space where mounted but that silly button... still have to get to it and using board unsupported i didnt feel good idea. Might be ok. Case has extension that reaches button and limits pressure applied. easier to mount.... Not sure why most RTRs are 50/50, all could benefit from weight, especially forward/lower on a crawler. Out of the box I was impressed, I gather the links are a weak point and the glued tires dont allow easy manipulation, stock foams are really stiff. For guests who may not be RC familiar might consider limiting over all speed. The Shop-mini Rc has a good video on programming features of the radio, specifically getting to 'beginner' mode. th-cam.com/video/fhb5gr_iWd4/w-d-xo.html. basically hold ch 4 button, rotate steering full left CCW and turn on transmitter. This turns on/off beginner mode. Im use it until I regear, a bit fast for crawling imo. Have fun..

Thanks, started off with paper & plaster, switching to rummaged foam from neighbors recycle and picking up hot wire cutter can more easily create semi realistic terrain. Red rock theme, the natural randomness of it, lends itself to making something that gives the impression of being believable without really being so. Honestly my 1st attempt at anything like this, quantity over quality :)

Thanks! Seriously glad you enjoyed, Just trying to mimic what has impressed me.

Thanks, the changes as much fun as anything else...

Thanks! A bit impractical but fun...

Thanks-fun stuff

Thanks

Maraming salamat! (had to look up salamat) Cool -learned something new. Thats how this course evolved, picking up bits and pieces from other folks... Thanks again

Thanks!

Thanks. As to detail- its what keeps me captivated- to the puzzlement of friends, what I call fun.:)

Thanks. Amazing what fantasies can be realized with scrap cardboard, foam, some plaster and a lot of time:) fun stuff.......

Thanks- Holy Neptune...just watched your video in the river. Guess those snorkels really work :)

Thats the key! Thanks

Thanks. Ya way obvious to me how much I shake, kinda aggravating. Picked a tripod for that very reason but usually I want to 'roam'. But agree-glimbal would be nice.

Thanks, any info gleaned from my crude efforts makes it worthwhile. That's how I manage, picking up different bits & pieces from others. Just plug away till it resembles what I want.

@@-AnEv942 Your creation couldn't be further away from crude, hah!

Thanks

Thanks, though my course has taken on a life of its own, one of the 24th scale pluses is how small an area is really needed to make for some interesting fun 'crawling' time.

Thanks...24th scale whole different game, I resisted for a long time but being so small, cost, ease of transporting, there fun.

Jumping beans..thats funny. Was a store across the street from school when a kid, one of the items they sold to steal our lunch money-good times :) On the port original intent was to increase flow while restricting enough to not suck belt into cover. Its close. But as noted that was a fail even with partial opening. (About 4:30). Now that cover is spaced out it could be fully opened. (I'd caution folks to open up port incrementally, enough vacuum will suck belt into cover grinding port boss off). I've since added a tee that adds suction to both the belt & disk ports. th-cam.com/video/LCZvQ7b-I7A/w-d-xo.html This machine fell and hit the ground (totaled). Replacement machine, (yes cheaper than fixing) transferred mods shown, last thing done on it, belt port was fully opened (not shown) for higher flow, still enough on the disk port. Also hinged the belt cover making belt changes simpler, faster, getting rid of a lot of the jumping beans:) Though 50% of the time still put belt on backwards... th-cam.com/video/vlkulL2bFc4/w-d-xo.html. Slotting the fence mount is a good idea, my hesitation was as metal so soft it might yield, pretty weak. Could weld thickner face plate on it or a larger washer. Enjoy!

@@-AnEv942, "Always room for improvement." That's the way God made us and we always try to follow His example.

Thanks

Thanks, its fun (now). Still needs some tuning but considering how flip floppy the AX24 was out of the box so far happy. Its able to crawl this little dry stream, I had tried when new out of box, was on its side or top more than rolling. Didnt last 10 minuets before I gave up & tore it down. Always wanted an old Willys truck- this is as close I'll ever get :)

Thanks-

Thanks, rather addicting, not all that challenging but fun. I mentioned if I took out a wall I could approach the scale you folks have done, (talk about awesome) Got a resounding NO. :) So will modify as we go along.

ya its fun playing with the sticks, simple and inexpensive. Can make-well what ever you can dream up. There's a video here somewhere guy built an entire course out of em. THATs the secret- have fun.

Thanks!

We keep trying thanks...

Thanks-was fun building but still doesn't really work as far as crawling.

Ha, well it will sew pretty thick material IF you can get the material under foot. While this mod doesn't alter what machine can punch thru, it does allow easily getting material under foot. Possibly limiting foot height is an attempt to limit to what machine can handle? Who knows. For me its not thickness but combined density that stops machine. I can sew double webbing over a few layers of 600d poly but couldn't get it under foot. Hopefully your successful, good luck.

@@-AnEv942 well I will try this hack because its very disappointing for sure, I’m glad you replied it gives me hope! I had that jacket material under the foot when it kept slipping and the needle didn’t move, so I have a lot to figure out on this machine. Thanks again!

Trial & error- on the ends mostly used a small mini V file to make small Vs (to look like old wood splitting). Some are cut using utility knife.. Random holes drilled then feather out to look like knots fallen out. The Popsicle sticks pretty soft, just and press dragging to create split lines. 1:10. Lately I've bee using an old wood rasp, laid flat pressing and draging to cut weathered grain lines, distressing. Did sand edges with coarse paper getting rid of square corners and uniform width. Wire brush to roughen. Highlight split ends and random surface 'splits' before painting with a roller ball ink pen. Painting I used Rustoleum semi gloss (though dark grey primer would work) anodized bronze. 2:42 Barley pressing nozzle to get spray paint to spit, then dust from distance. Dremel likely work, hadn't tried. Using dremel hard part making splits not looking like slots? but I'm thinking cut off wheel. To my eye it was trying to make each plank different, not repeating patterns. Good luck.

Short answer, no, mine doesn't hit. It doesn't really 'hit' but if presser foot manually lifted and machine rotated so that needle travels down it does contact. However it doesn't stop downward travel of needle. I would not try to sew like that (presser foot lifted) and if needle not all the way up defeats purpose of higher foot lift. Which is only to allow putting thicker material under foot. Once foot released there is no contact. If, which is only scenario i can imagine, you placed materiel that was so thick presser foot didn't compress or held foot at maximum height, then you would have problem. I can slip a piece of paper between foot and needle bar, tight but can pull out. I suppose you cold use that, needle in down position as maximum presser foot lift height.

Thanks. I'd actually seen your video earlier when gathering ideas...Seems to be increasingly further out, keeps growing :), but looking forward to when we can start adding details to our layout. Ya- working on it has become almost as much fun as driving it, kind of surprised me.

@@-AnEv942 yeah, i had so much fun doing the painting and adding the scenery to the course. at first i was just going to stick stuff here and there and then once i seen it taking shape and i said to myself, wow, this actually looks ok! lol and i am not a very talented person.

This is great. I’m building my indoor course too. I like seeing other guys ideas. I definitely like making multiple paths through the same course. I’ve built mine modular on 2’x4’ plywood. I have five built so far and they can interchange with each other making even more climbing options. Mine is made with all flat cardboard so far. It looks like large rock formations with multiple levels. I plan to add smaller rock details then cover the entire thing with plaster Paris sheets. Then paint. It can sit on the floor or folding tables when not using it I hang them on the ceiling. Thanks for the video I like it.

@@Cad1900 yeah, they are so much fun to build. not sure if you checked mine out also. i put up a few videos the last few days. check it out when you get a chance

Thanks!

I used a set from MotionRC.com FMS 1/18 Scale Crawler Transmission Gear Box & Axle Set SKU: FMSC2001 currently out of stock though. The Hobby plus Conqueror 6x6 virtually the same, couple of dollars more but should work. Hobby Plus 1/18 Scale 6x6 Transmission Gear Box & Axle Case Set SKU: HBP240035

The pilot light addition still working. If asking about the COA lights, they were installed jan. of 2022, so 21 months and still working fine, no issues.

@@-AnEv942 How do you resync a cab light if it goes out of sync?

I've not had that issue, these only are on/off. the originals that had flash, brightness level features, sync issues was more common and I think why discontinued. However to resync its remove 2 screws holding lens, take out the light module, take it and remote far enough away from truck (lights on) remote doesn't affect truck, turn on the out of sync light to match lights on truck, reinstall. Another video outling this: th-cam.com/video/-YteEXtVURo/w-d-xo.html. From what i gather tapping the remote is one way the older lights got out of sync, you need to hold the on button until all lights are on. I hold the on button for 1-2 seconds to ensure all are on. Good luck.

as I mentioned...just bumbling along

What is the amperage rating for the harness fuse? Thank you for this!

It likely does ground thru the RCA cable and extra ground not required but I connected the ground under the dash to an existing chassis ground screw. Yes I cut the RCA cable to pull thru instead of trying to push thru the extension cable plug or the rather large RCA jack thru. Other reason is the cable (36 feet) needed to be shortened anyway so cutting just made getting thru easier plus I wanted to make the pass thru hole as small as possible. Soldering connections also need to ensure cable shielding re-attached. Alternately to not cut you could push the small plug on extension cable plug thru (probably not easy but in the long run save cutting/soldering) to engine bay and coil up extra wire may behind fender or in engine bay. I cut cable, used a stiff piece of steel wire to get thru grommet and pulled cable plugged in to camera inside. Wished I had documented wiring better-doing this from memory...

thanks for your patience! now I got the full picture. I will follow your guidance. have a great weekend!@@-AnEv942

Actually it was pretty easy, well a bit contorted under the dash, etc but is pretty much plug & play. long story This install frustrating because when the frac fuse blew there was an unrelated vehicle fuse that controls the backup lights also was blown. ( It was NOT either fuse labeled backup, 'LAMP IC' I think) It was me when trouble shooting the no rear camera once frac installed that frac fuse was blown. Cars camera was working but never looked at rear of car, but the backup lights were not working and the frac uses that as signal. Trying to trouble shoot is when frac fuse was blown. Which had us chasing our tail...because replaced frac fuse and it still didn't work. Removed the frac and put radio back to stock camera worked? Next day is when I traced out, realized no signal and went to rear of car and saw no backup lights. Tested ALL fuses discovering one bad fuse (not blown visually) that caused all issues. Nothing due to the Frac harness-all me. Its possible I somehow caused but honestly almost believe the no back up light was a pre-existing condition, hooking up the frac it didn't work because of no signal from backup lights. And then me trouble shooting system hot blew the frac fuse. If memory serves power wire came loose and touched chassis. The intial cause of no back up lights (and no signal to frac) a mystery, as all cars wires are contained within harness. That said if contemplating, ensure everything is working before beginning. Ensure wires are protected before energizing.

Thanks! @@-AnEv942

The explanation is very clear, and your video quite useful. Thanks again for sharing and explaining what happened. @@-AnEv942

Well... your last question showed in notifications but not here? Or at least I can respond to. Odd Any way loaded short vid showing connection. th-cam.com/video/vx6vIcVDY5k/w-d-xo.html Connect FRAC to the trigger wire at cameras RCA plug (Labeled B if same camera). The other wire (labled D) isnt used for FRAC.

thanks again!. I was not sure which of red wire of the camera would go to the Frac harness, but now it is clear. much appreciated!@@-AnEv942

Yes- however more beneficial at least to me was searching out other videos. Especially removing dash parts etc.

ha dont know. Old age, too many drugs, Dracula's standing behind me, worried about critique from TH-cam viewers? But ya I do...