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You bought a cooler incompatible with your motherboard. User error.

That’s on you 😭

No u only use around a pea size

@@Whitemoontechstore . No u r wrong

🤦🤦

Use motherboard brand related software. Make sure you have argb slot in your motherboard.

@@Jewelsonn I did, also have argb port but software didn't detecting fans

@@prateek9877 then check the cpu cooler brand software if they provide

with 12600k go with aio,if ur idle temps are 50C its fine as it is summer,if it is unstable at load or reacher above 80C buy aio,probably 240mm or 360mm

buy a deepcool ak620 ..it can handle 12600k in all situations

It worried me as well since I haven't built a system in a very long time. There is a gap between the standoff and back plate that allows movement, however once you lay the cooler on and tighten the screws, everything becomes tensioned with no play.

@@bazlephrat Hmm, unfortunately I've built them a few times with plates and never experienced play, and went out to get another cooler and send this one back, as there were several amazon comments implying that there was a separate AM4 plate you had to contact manufacturer to get. The replacement I got had zero play once the brackets were on. I just couldn't trust this sink not to damage the board eventually if there was actual play left in it. But it's good to know it worked fine for you once you had fully tightened everything. I just wasn't willing to chance the big metal block crashing onto the GPU and potentially damaging both in that process.

I just installed an AM4 3700x into a Gigabyte B550M Aorus Pro mATX and experienced that play after installing the D, G, H onto the original backplate (I got this motherboard used and it had the AMD Wraith backplate and two plastic standoffs preinstalled). Between standoffs H and F, I found H's to have a coarser thread pitch on the bottom male end and it was identical to the coarse thread pitch on the fasteners on the plastic standoffs (so I used H. F uses the finer thread pitch on both male ends). Next, I installed part Gx4 and followed with part A (the cooler) and tightened up the two spring loaded retention fasteners and the play and wiggle disappeared. I lifted the entire motherboard up by the cooler and everything appears to be stable. It is disappointing that the fastener bags are not labeled.

Actually is ngl

what is wrong?

@kshauryadwivedi The way of application is not recommended.

@@abeerfaisal1986 why though? what part can be done differently?

@kshauryadwivedi Thermal Paste should never be applied that way. Single drop in the center or a line along the center is the appropriate way.

You can also use this paste for laptops. There is no difference when it comes to thermal pastes whether they are used for laptops or desktop PCs.

I just wanted too see. I was using Mx-4 which is known to be not that great for open dye applications, cuz of pump out effect I just wanted to see how hard it's to apply this paste as it's more viscous than Mx-4​@@RayZXA

@@bhoot1702 The viscosity when applying thermal paste also depends a little on the room temperature. Otherwise you can also use Alpenföhn Blitzeis. It is even better than the Coolermaster. Both are firmer and more durable than the MX-4.

@@RayZXA Got it thanks. I just retired that laptop today and got a PC and bought this thermal paste. And my comment is from 9 months back and so is yours. What a timing. We'll better late then never, I guess xD

@@bhoot1702 No problem. Glad I could help you.

Você pode usar. Não conduz eletricidade e não absorve água.

You should try phase-change material Honeywell PTM7950. It comes in as a sheet, lasts longer, performs works better than traditional pastes and there is no pump-out effect.

It is not. This paste has the same thermal conductivity as Thermal Grizzly Kyonaut, if not better! CryoFuze is 14W/mk! It is NOT electrically conductive.

Honeywell PTM7950 is a pad. It's maximum thermal conductivity is only 8.5W/mk. Cyofuze is nearly 2x better at 14W/mk. @@goorthiss

mostly only liquid metal is electrically conductive