วีดีโอ

i think he must just be copying someone elses tutorial for the views bc he lacks any knowledge like the person who makes these cables probably has a video and he just coppied it bc i cant see why this should be done unless you make money off selling people the adaptors or from views on the video

@@LucciGucci-q1o no sorry, I'm not copying another tutorial. If there are others on TH-cam with similar content, I wasn't aware of this when I made the video. Nor am I making money from the video - I'd need many more subscribers and views to monetize this and I would certainly choose a product that's worth more than $10 if I was looking for affiliate money. As far as me "lacking knowledge", I said that I'm NOT an electronics guru - I never claimed to be. I'm simply a person who wanted a less annoying cord on my headphones. I could have done it the way you suggested, however, it's just not the way I decided to do it. I didn't want to see a heat shrink connection between the old and new cable, and I thought it would be more interesting to actually disassemble the headphones and replace the wire instead of just patching new to old. From my perspective, it's a way to show people that fixing or modifying your electronics (no matter what they are) can be simple. Sorry if this content was not for you but I appreciate the comment.

@@schuelkecustomguitars4376 I’m not 100% sure? I’m definitely not the go to person for wire type. Are you referring to the coating that was on the wires in the headphones or on the whip?

Thank you! I built 37 of these storm windows for my house. I ended up using 1/4” laminated glass which made them hurricane proof - very helpful in New Orleans.

Haha! Thank you. I don't have many subscribers because I'm lazy on releasing new content. Don't get me wrong, I always feel like I should be recording my daily work, but I never feel like busting out the camera. Anyway, I appreciate the feedback!

You're very welcome! The process is relatively simple, but I thought it would be good to see it done. Really any female cable end will work, but as I mentioned, don't trust wire colors. Instead rely on a simple continuity test. Good luck!

Here with an update: The patient is out of surgery and better than ever! Thanks again! I am doing this to ALL my wired non-detachable cable headphones from now. One thing to add to help on the cable color matching thing. Instead of cutting the existing headphones cable first, open the driver cup and check for continuity first like with the TRS cable and note of where they go. I would have made the same mistake you made if I didn’t watch your video. But having that schematic of where all go before even turning on the iron made this a breeze. Take care.

@@cobymela I'm glad my video helped you, and I've personally started doing this with all of my headphones as well. Your idea of checking continuity before ripping things apart is a great idea! Thank you

I have not made any knives using bone for the handle. However, I think the process would be very similar. Bone can heat up and burn just the same so make sure you're not overheating when polishing.

Yes, I added a rubber gasket, bulb type like you mentioned. They are holding up fairly well, but I may need to update that soon. The adhesive strip is not holding up to the heat as well as I hoped.

Thank you!

Thank you. I’m really trying to find my voice without doing what everyone else is doing. But it’s difficult to produce original content. I plan to create more soon so stay tuned!

It's a no-win situation really. Some prefer the longer form video with more information, and some prefer to get the point immediately. Nonetheless, I hope you found what you were looking for.

Brother, showdown and learn something.

Yes, I've had this problem. I believe it's related to overheating the compound causing it to chemically bond to the epoxy. You need to have a light touch when buffing the epoxy. Don't stay in one place for too long and keep a container of water near to dip between passes.

Thank you sir. I'm trying to produce more content, but everyday life keeps getting in my way!

Thank you! I suspect the algorithm doesn't appreciate my sporadic content uploading? I plan to produce more in 2024 with the hope that it will improve my stats.

Thank you! Much appreciated!

Hi, this link should work: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0BRCWLFJ5

Hi Al, thanks for the question. I've found that the 2X72 does a great job in getting the basic shape and the start of a sheen. After the basic grinding on the 2X72, I move over to hand shaping where I move through grits down to 8000. With hand sanding, I don't start using water until I hit 1200 grit. When I reach 5000 grit, I use Flitz which is a metal polish but it works well with sandpaper and epoxy. Side note, 5000+ sandpaper feels like you're sanding with grit-less office paper. Finally, I move to the bench grinder with polishing waxes, making sure not to overheat the epoxy which can cause it to get a matte appearance. It's a lengthy process for sure, but I'm able to eventually get to a high gloss finish.

Thank you for the kind comments. I’m in the process of producing more content now so please stay tuned!

Thank you! I really appreciate that you took the time to watch this. You're the first to comment on this work. I was beginning to think that nobody liked it, so your words mean a lot to me.

I don't see a belt grinder as a fine finish tool - even with a fine grit belt. I prefer to hand sand both epoxy and wood because I find that it's much easier to focus on improving tiny imperfections without having a 2" belt threatening to add an unintentional mistake to the work. I think you'll find that with most fine crafts these days, 80% is done with a machine and 20% is done by fine handwork. Anyway, I don't see the tactile experience of hand sanding as a waste of time - I feel that it adds to joy of making things. At least that's my experience.

Unfortunately, I believe this is the only video I have for this. I intended to create another, but at the time the project took priority over filming.

@@SomewhatAbnormal Says the channel is not active/does not exist.

After I posted that reply about changing my channel, I took a different approach to organizing my stuff. Sorry for the confusion! The channel URL is th-cam.com/channels/hfwzKwZGoB0NI1iEUh4U7g.html

Thanks Simon! I'll be adding new content soon. I apologize for not creating more, but I'm trying to get organized so that I can.

Thanks for the comment Richard! Using epoxy for knife handles is definitely challenging. Over Xmas break I was able to see how these handles have held up after 1-2 years of use, and I can verify that they are still stable.

I really wish I had recorded how to insert the glass and also the installation of the windows. This whole process took about 1.5 years because I was mostly working alone and I have 37 windows on my house.

@@SomewhatAbnormal hi, it’s me again, this time I’m wondering who makes the Orange brackets that are screwed on to the board? Did you use boiled linseed oil to preserve the wood? I love this kind of stuff. My husband thinks I’m nuts. I reglazed several windows and loved every minute of it. Restoring old windows is definitely a labor of love.

Cindy, I'm glad to help because I'm a DIY geek as well! This is a list of most of the tools and supplies I used to build the windows: AMAZON * Relitec corner positioning squares: amzn.to/3ZoLipm * POWERTEC push/pull toggle clamps: amzn.to/3Xfq8bh * POWERTEC quick release toggle clamps: amzn.to/3vVWmwl * Kreg K4 Pocket Hole Jig: amzn.to/3k7DPdO * Kreg SML-F125-250 Zinc Pocket Screws, 1-1/4 Inch: amzn.to/3XiWGkI * General Tools 8495 Pocket Hole Plugs: amzn.to/3XjZzBC THE CRAFTSMAN STORE * Sarco MultiGlaze Type M: thecraftsmanstore.com/product/sarco-multiglaze-type-m/ * Pure Whiting: thecraftsmanstore.com/product/pure-whiting/ * Vintage Glazing Point Driver: thecraftsmanstore.com/product/fletcher-5-glazing-point-driver/ * No. 1 Diamond Glazing Points 5/16″: thecraftsmanstore.com/product/no-wax-no-1-diamond-glazing-points-5-16/ LOCAL LUMBER YARD * Cypress wood which has natural rot and insect resistance. If you live in Louisiana, I bought it at Riverside Lumber (awful website, great wood): www.riversidelumber.com/frameset.htm

Thank you! I'm in the process of retooling my workshop, so I will have more videos soon. I really appreciate your feedback.

Hello William, I've had very good luck with pin rivets, a mini drop of superglue could be the reason. Saludos. Anaco, Anz.

I use pins in all of my knives and I have yet to have one fail. There are a few things I do... 1) On my bandsaw I cut little grooves around the center section of the pin which basically gives the pin additional surface area inside the handle where epoxy can seat. I take a whole piece of pin material (usually 8-12"), mark the cut lines, then spin the pin material against the blade in the center of each pin. No need to be overly neat, just make grooves then cut all the pins to length. 2) Clean all of your parts with acetone before glue up and make sure everything is dust free. 3) Don't use a quick epoxy (5 minute) for gluing up your handles. Instead use a longer curing epoxy like West System G/Flex which has a working time of 60-75 minutes, initial cure of 3-4 hours, and a workable cure of 7-10 hours. With a longer curing epoxy, you can make last minute alignment adjustments, and G/Flex makes good structural bonds that resist expansion, contraction and shock. People use it on canoes, kayaks and boats so it's engineered to stand up to water and stress. 4) Don't be afraid to use the epoxy liberally especially around the pin holes when gluing up. I've found that 2 drams of each (resin and hardener) for a total of 4 drams is the right amount for the typical knife. I use drams because the little disposable measuring cups I use are marked with drams - 1 dram is equivalent to 1.77185 grams or 0.0625002 oz. If you want to pigment your epoxy (I like to use black pigment) just make sure to add it to the epoxy (not more than 10% of volume -- basically a few drops), mix well, then add hardener. Pigment can change the properties of epoxy slightly so it's best to stick with pigments that are engineered to work with G/Flex (knifemaking.com/products/we5018-white-pigment). Hope this helps!

Coming soon! I promise. I'm in the process of doing some office and workspace renovation so my life will be easier!

Thank you! Cheers!

Gotta feel sexy when you're polishing epoxy.

Thanks! This is a 8' Gladiator workbench I bought from Sears about 20 years ago, and I added the T-Tracks about a year ago. I use Rockler hold down clamps in the track to keep my knife stable while I'm filing or sanding. The hold down clamps with the end stop are essential when I'm gluing up a composite knife scale.

Thanks for that feedback, and I'll give it a try with my next knife.

Thank you. I plan to make more videos soon.

Thank you!