วีดีโอ

You don't need to "pre heat" the sheet but you do need to semi cure it once you print your ink on it.

Thats a great question, this ink ended up being discontinued. For a good alternative plastisol version our Rapid Cure White would be your go to.

Absolutely! This product works on a variety of surfaces, including paper, poster board, wood, and canvas. The inks we use are specifically designed for these materials, as well as for garments. When printing on paper, poster board, wood, and similar surfaces, you can simply let them air dry. For garments, just cure them as usual for the best results.

Thank you! I’ll be getting some soon.

You're welcome! We're always happy to help.

🧡

It sure is!

No problem! Glad it could help.

It's the same purple magic you know and love-ready to use, with an impressive shelf life, and as you mentioned, water-resistant!

Press wash has been used by other screen printers to clean ink and gunk off of their presses. What we recommend for platens is platen tape! Easy to apply and the mess sticks on it, when it gets dirty you just peel it off and toss it away.

Sorry to hear that. What issues did you run into maybe we can help you out.

​@@screenprintdirect I worked in complete darkness, except for my red led headlamp, to apply a thin coat each side of my 160 screen. I didnt expose it at all and took it outside at night, again no light except for my headlamp, and hit it with the garden hose spray nozel. Nothing washed out. It was totally unexposed and nothing washed out. Waste of my time and money.

We are really sorry to hear that. The good thing is, is that the blades slid in and out easily so adjusting it shouldn't be too hard to do.

We definitely will be!

Great question! This is one of the trickiest parts of the process. Your exposure time is crucial. You need to have your exposure time dialed in to have an easy washout like in the video. If nothing appeared on yours, you may have overexposed it. This means that you had it exposed to the light for too long. We would recommend doing some research on the emulsion you are using. If you are using an Ecotex® emulsion you can look on the container label for some exposure times or go to the product listing on our website which will give you all sorts of information for each emulsion's exposure time with certain types of exposure units.

@screenprintdirect I did a step wedge test and figure the perfect one would wash out but none really did. They kinda just stayed there lol n did follow instructions

Thats a good question. The most popular program that screen printers use is Adobe Illustrator. There are some that use a program called Corel Draw as well.

@ thanks

🤙

Happy to help!

Halftone prints are traditionally just black and white images. If you do want to add color to it, you can. It would just be a matter of making another screen for that color you want to print. Most people tend to use white as the base for the color if they are going to go that route.

Great question, it's actually a 30watt UV LED. It is our own brand light. All of our emulsions have been tested with this light. Exposure times are going to vary so we can't give you the exact time but for example our PWR emulsion at around 14 inches above the screen will expose in around 30 seconds.

Yes, the key is to try and get to the 7 steps so if you are below 3-5 you want to bring it up as close as possible. Same as if you were over like you mentioned 10-21 you want to bring that down to 7.

It does give a brief overview of the emulsion. Is there something specifically you are looking to find out ?

Great question, AP Blue is a good emulsion as well but it's going to be best for Plastisol, UV and Solvent based inks. It can be used with water-based but won't be the best used for that. We would recommend PWR if you are going to be doing more water-based printing.

@@screenprintdirect Thank you so much for the breakdown! 💕

Thats a great question but yes you can store them for later use. One of the things people use transfers for is to print their neck tags in large quantities and when they need to label shirts they will do so whenever. Another is printers that are doing live printing or promotional items in public, they tend to print them in a large quantity and then press them at a later time.

You are going to want the light around 14inches above the screen.

You are going to want the light around 14inches above the screen.

You can save the files just as you would any other file.

That's a question that's hard to answer. The sun is much different in terms of exposing. Its not a steady light source so timing can vary and will never be 100% the same. We recommend using an exposure calculator if you are going to be using the sun to expose.

That's a really good question. When you are just washing out your screen to get your image to appear you don't need anything special. You can use your normal garden hose type nozzle. You want a soft spray nothing hard or intense.

Of course! Here is the link: screenprintdirect.com/pages/pricing-calculator You can also find it if you click the description of the video. Let us know if you have any other questions.

@@screenprintdirectthe link is not clickable. Maybe you can re do it or put it in your bio

Glad it was helpful!

Good question. We are using ecotex water-based inks. These will be your best bet when wanting to print things like posters, cards or cardboard boxes.

@@screenprintdirect Thank you so much!)

Good question! Yes, this would work regardless of the ink being used.

We think so too!

It depends on the specifications of your flood lamp. The important part is that the light gives off the proper wavelength to harden the emulsion. Time wise you would need to experiment with your particular light to get it just right. This link has a little cheat sheet for our emulsions on specific lights we have tested with. shorturl.at/2pfLK

@@screenprintdirect I tried a handful of diffrent burn times and exposures but still can’t get I right I’ve ruined 4 screens so far 😭

Not this time! lol

All good questions! If you can "flash" dry it before hand with a heat gun that would be great. The reason the ink doesn't get on the Teflon sheet is because it's meant to be a surface that can handle high heat and won't stick to things.

@@screenprintdirect Thanks for the feedback!

I cure my shirts 20-30 degrees higher than recommended when using a heat press for 20-30 seconds. If you cure at the recommended temp yes it passes the stretch test but after one wash and hung dry I already had cracks. That stopped when I changed the temp and time

Great question, with that light it will take around 30 seconds. Exposure times will vary on the light source, amount of coats, etc.

Thats a good question. You would want to use an inkjet printer for the film positives to make sure you have a nice dark print. That will help create the best stencil.

Adobe programs are the normal for this. We recommend sticking with those since they are trusted.

Thanks so much! Hopefully we have something that helps everyone.

That's a great question. and there are a number of reasons why people use plastisol transfers. We won't go over all or most but there are a couple reasons. A lot or printers use plastisol transfers to apply neck labels to garments, and it makes it much easier to apply on a textured fleece sweatshirt rather than trying to screen print directly on it. Another reason is the option it gives at live events. Example a market or show, you have 3 designs, you don't need to preprint shirts that may not sell. You just apply the transfers that you made to the shirt you sell.